[jriggs]

Wouldn’t worry too much about the power wire. Just make sure it is high strand count OFC. I used Stinger power cables.

I also use stinger 9000 series in my X5 but only because I got them all at a fraction of their MSP. I usually use the 8000 series, they are fantastic and are a tremendous value for the money.

 

[jimmydee]

Ok., "power wires" - Which/what would you recommend? And/Or would the following work? (Length?) -

• Kolossus Fleks Kable 4 Gauge Red Power/Ground Wire - Merchandise
• Kolossus Fleks Kable 4 Gauge Black Power/Ground Wire - Merchandise

What could I end these (raw wire) with?

Those power wires would be perfect.
The end that goes into the amp could/should be bare (raw wire). The other end(s) need to terminate onto the battery positive and the car chassis negative ground post.
You'll also need a fuse and fuse holder. For the money; you're better-off just buying a whole kit, and not using the extra speaker wire:
Kolossus Fleks 4 Gauge Amplifier Installation Kit - Merchandise

Would you suggest I need to also get ("Stinger 9000's") RCA's (Length?)?

Yes, you will need a few sets of RCA's... Stinger 9000's are really nice (if you want to spend a lot of money).
There are lots of options for RCA cables, and honestly; a cheap pair will work just as good as an expensive pair...
As mentioned by another member; the Stinger 8000 is really good too (it's what I use). But Knuconceptz also makes decent ones at a good price.

Karma v3 Twisted 2 Channel Coaxial RCA Cable - 6.5 Feet - Merchandise

www.knukonceptz.com

Do you have a suggestion as to where I could get the proper ("3/4") thickness [Edit: Went back to your SQ Build] - to raise them, Mount on top - spacers?

Do you have a jigsaw? It's fairly easy to take out your OEM speaker and trace it onto a piece of 3/4" HDPE, and cut them out yourself.
You can get HDPE on Amazon:

Amazon.com: HDPE (High Density Polyethylene) Sheet, Opaque Off-White, Standard Tolerance, ASTM D4976-245, 0.750" Thickness, 12" Width, 24" Length: Industrial & Scientific

Amazon.com: HDPE (High Density Polyethylene) Sheet, Opaque Off-White, Standard Tolerance, ASTM D4976-245, 0.750" Thickness, 12" Width, 24" Length: Industrial & Scientific

www.amazon.com

If you're not comfortable doing this yourself, then there are guys that fabricate these (I just don't really know who they are).
Here's an example:

2PCs 8 Inch Bass Audio Mat Car Speaker Spacer for BMW 5 Modified Audio Mat Washer Rings Pad Adapter Kit Bracket Holder Black| | - AliExpress

Online Shopping at a cheapest price for Automotive, Phones & Accessories, Computers & Electronics, Fashion, Beauty & Health, Home & Garden, Toys & Sports, Weddings & Events and more; just about anything else Enjoy ✓Free Shipping Worldwide! ✓Limited Time Sale ✓Easy Return.

www.aliexpress.com

What is the difference (or, what application would it be for?) in getting say, an "LC7i" (6 Ch. LOC --> 6Ch. P6?) in place of the SDMI25? -
"MOST" & Non - "MOST"??

The LC7i is not even in the same league as the SDMI25. The SDMI25 is a SUBSTANTIALLY better option, and to be honest; the SDMI25 is easier to install.
The LC7i is just going to tap into your existing speaker output. And that signal is going to be garbage.
Trust me. You'll spend your whole life trying to tune-out the factory EQing.
The SDMI25 goes straight to the source, and gives you a pure clean flat digital output signal.
For BMW; the Helix SDMI25 is the absolute way to go.

 

[ShastaMcNasty]

Thanks for responding, I was thinking of using OEM wire for everything and just running new wires for the Mids since they are on a passive I believe.

Yes, the mids/tweeters for the front doors and the center channel are wired this way (the rears might be too but I haven’t done those yet). The wire for the tweeters comes off the mid speaker itself and there is an in-line high-pass filter. P

I only wired the mids in my build and it worked out well. I also used a harness from TechnicPnP that mated up with the OEM speaker wires (it acted as the female output from the OEM HK amp). I just connected the wires from the harness to my amp’s output and it connected directly to the male end of the OEM harness. This way I didn’t have to cut/splice any of the factory wires. Link to the wire harness is below.

I have to warn you that running that mid wire to the front doors is a pain in the @ss... especially the passenger side (the Molex enters right behind the front fuse panels, so it is difficult to get the wires through).

Logic7/HK/EPS/Individual Audio/Bang & Olufsen/Bowers & Wilkins MOST OEM amp replacement hardware kit for MOST Converter applications - Technic PNP

The MOST OEM amp replacement hardware kit for MOST Converter applications is designed to replace the MOST (fiber optics inputs) OEM amp without cutting, splicing or tapping any OEM wires. A MOST Converter unit is required and not included. MOST Converter unit examples are Audison DMI and all...

technicpnp.com

 

[Dr. Who]

Those power wires would be perfect.
The end that goes into the amp could/should be bare (raw wire). The other end(s) need to terminate onto the battery positive and the car chassis negative ground post.
You'll also need a fuse and fuse holder. For the money; you're better-off just buying a whole kit, and not using the extra speaker wire:
Kolossus Fleks 4 Gauge Amplifier Installation Kit - Merchandise


Yes, you will need a few sets of RCA's... Stinger 9000's are really nice (if you want to spend a lot of money).
There are lots of options for RCA cables, and honestly; a cheap pair will work just as good as an expensive pair...
As mentioned by another member; the Stinger 8000 is really good too (it's what I use). But Knuconceptz also makes decent ones at a good price.

Karma v3 Twisted 2 Channel Coaxial RCA Cable - 6.5 Feet - Merchandise

www.knukonceptz.com

Do you have a jigsaw? It's fairly easy to take out your OEM speaker and trace it onto a piece of 3/4" HDPE, and cut them out yourself.
You can get HDPE on Amazon:

Amazon.com: HDPE (High Density Polyethylene) Sheet, Opaque Off-White, Standard Tolerance, ASTM D4976-245, 0.750" Thickness, 12" Width, 24" Length: Industrial & Scientific

Amazon.com: HDPE (High Density Polyethylene) Sheet, Opaque Off-White, Standard Tolerance, ASTM D4976-245, 0.750" Thickness, 12" Width, 24" Length: Industrial & Scientific

www.amazon.com

If you're not comfortable doing this yourself, then there are guys that fabricate these (I just don't really know who they are).
Here's an example:

2PCs 8 Inch Bass Audio Mat Car Speaker Spacer for BMW 5 Modified Audio Mat Washer Rings Pad Adapter Kit Bracket Holder Black| | - AliExpress

Online Shopping at a cheapest price for Automotive, Phones & Accessories, Computers & Electronics, Fashion, Beauty & Health, Home & Garden, Toys & Sports, Weddings & Events and more; just about anything else Enjoy ✓Free Shipping Worldwide! ✓Limited Time Sale ✓Easy Return.

www.aliexpress.com

The LC7i is not even in the same league as the SDMI25. The SDMI25 is a SUBSTANTIALLY better option, and to be honest; the SDMI25 is easier to install.
The LC7i is just going to tap into your existing speaker output. And that signal is going to be garbage.
Trust me. You'll spend your whole life trying to tune-out the factory EQing.
The SDMI25 goes straight to the source, and gives you a pure clean flat digital output signal.
For BMW; the Helix SDMI25 is the absolute way to go.

Hey,

Excellent Info., I appreciate it!!

Just to wrap up - The Amp. install. kit comes with one 6 Mt.(19.6 Ft.) set of RCA Cables. How many more (length?) do I need (5?)??

Confused again... Since the P6 is an integrated DSP/Amp. How do the RCA's work in here And, how does the "Technic..." harness fit in??
What does the flow "--->" look like???

• HK ("688") Head Unit --->
• Technicpnp "MOST" Adapter Harness --->
• Helix SDMI25 "MOST" / LO Converter --->
• 2 Channel RCA's (How is it that I need 19.6 Ft. of RCA Cables?) --->
• Helix PS DSP MK2 (6 Ch.) DSP/Amp. --->
• 4 Channel RCA Cable(s) ---> (What do these connect to?!?

Also, are the spacers offered in the "AliExpress" link you sent the correct ones with the proper (you indicated - 3/4") thickness?

So, I don't need a LOC. "SDMI25" it is! I'm fine with just the "MOST" convertor, correct?

Thanks again!


Cheers!

 

[jimmydee]

1. I forgot that you intend to use a Helix P-Six DSP. In that case; you don't need any RCA's.
2. What you will need is a Toslink optical cable, to run from the SDMI25 to the P-Six.
3. You will also need some speaker wire - enough to connect each speaker terminal from the Tecnic harness to the speaker outputs on the P-Six.
4. I just sent you the AliExpress link as a reference. As mentioned in the original post; I don't know who makes them (I made my own)... you're going to have to do some online research to find that out. But yes, if you're using the W800NEO, then you need 3/4" depth.
5. You definitely do not need (or want) a LOC.

Flow looks like this:

• Unplug the MOST cable from the factory amp, and plug it into the SDMI25 (note; the SDMI comes with a small plastic adapter piece that you will need to attach to the end of the factory MOST cable - it's fairly straightforward, once you see it).
• Run a single Toslink optical cable from the SDMI25 to the Helix P-Six DSP
• Unplug the speaker harness block from the factory OEM amp, and attach the Tecnicpnp to it.
• Run speaker cables from the outputs of your Helix P-Six to the appropriate wires on the Tecnic harness.

In addition to the flow above; you need to run power cables to the Helix SDMI25 and the Helix P-Six.

The SDMI25 has a remote trigger wire output, that runs to the P-Six remote input (to turn the amp on and off).

 

[Dr. Who]

1. I forgot that you intend to use a Helix P-Six DSP. In that case; you don't need any RCA's.
2. What you will need is a Toslink optical cable, to run from the SDMI25 to the P-Six.
3. You will also need some speaker wire - enough to connect each speaker terminal from the Tecnic harness to the speaker outputs on the P-Six.
4. I just sent you the AliExpress link as a reference. As mentioned in the original post; I don't know who makes them (I made my own)... you're going to have to do some online research to find that out. But yes, if you're using the W800NEO, then you need 3/4" depth.
5. You definitely do not need (or want) a LOC.

Flow looks like this:

• Unplug the MOST cable from the factory amp, and plug it into the SDMI25 (note; the SDMI comes with a small plastic adapter piece that you will need to attach to the end of the factory MOST cable - it's fairly straightforward, once you see it).
• Run a single Toslink optical cable from the SDMI25 to the Helix P-Six DSP
• Unplug the speaker harness block from the factory OEM amp, and attach the Tecnicpnp to it.
• Run speaker cables from the outputs of your Helix P-Six to the appropriate wires on the Tecnic harness.

In addition to the flow above; you need to run power cables to the Helix SDMI25 and the Helix P-Six.

The SDMI25 has a remote trigger wire output, that runs to the P-Six remote input (to turn the amp on and off).

Dude,

First off - I'm sorry to be so persistent with the questions, but I'm overseas so, before actually purchasing all this (for me) expensive kit, I've got to make sure I'm
getting the right stuff for my build!

This is so very cool of you!!!

You wouldn't believe in how many (sound) forums I've posted with so very few (Isn't this what forums are for?) having actually responded ("Rocketboots") at length,
in any comprehensive manner. [Edit:] Once again...

Ok., Yeah. The "RCA's" freaked me out a bit!

Wow! Now its clear:
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

HK (“688”) Head Unit MOST cable ( ---> SDMi25 ) + Plastic Adapter]
H.U. OEM Speaker Harness Block --->

• Technicpnp "MOST" Adapter Harness --->
• Speaker Wire ( ---> P6 )
• ---> Helix SDMI25 "MOST" Converter --->
• Toslink Cable (1) --->
• ---> Helix PS DSP MK2 (6 Ch.) DSP/Amp. --->
• Kolossus Fleks Kable 4 Gauge Red Power Wire w/ (1) Ring Terminal
• Kolossus Fleks Kable 4 Gauge Black Ground Wire w/ (2) Ring Terminals
• Remote power trigger wiring
• Noico .80mm (18Sq.Ft.) Sound Deadening
• Focal ES100K Kit - (2) Front & Rear (I don't want to mix)
• Front & Rear Speaker Technicpnp Speaker Mounting Adapters - OEM Connector Wiring Adapters
• Center Channel - Omitted
• Audio Development W800 NEO Woofer - (2) Underseats
• Woofer(s) Technicpnp SWS-8 Mounting spacers - OEM Connector Wiring Adapters
• ¾” (DIY?) Thick Woofer Spacers.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Can the Speaker wires remain bare from the Tecnics harness to the P6 or do I have to put (RCA?) ends on them?

The SDMi25 and the P6 will be next to each other in the left side of the trunk (Bttry. on the right) of my F83. how much (+-) Power & Ground wire would you
suggest I need?

Also, since the OEM Amp. will no longer be (connected to anything?) in use, can I remove it and use its' base plate as a mounting plate for the P6?

Cheers!

Thank you!

 

[ShastaMcNasty]

+1 for @jimmydee... he is truly a stand-up guy who has shared an immense amount of knowledge with me (my current build is an X3M). All of which has saved me countless hours and helped me keep my knuckles relatively unscraped throughout my build.

 

[ShastaMcNasty]

Dude,

First off - I'm sorry to be so persistent with the questions, but I'm overseas so, before actually purchasing all this (for me) expensive kit, I've got to make sure I'm
getting the right stuff for my build!

This is so very cool of you!!!

You wouldn't believe in how many (sound) forums I've posted with so very few (Isn't this what forums are for?) having actually responded ("Rocketboots") at length,
in any comprehensive manner. [Edit:] Once again...

Ok., Yeah. The "RCA's" freaked me out a bit!

Wow! Now its clear:
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

HK (“688”) Head Unit MOST cable ( ---> SDMi25 ) + Plastic Adapter]
H.U. OEM Speaker Harness Block --->

• Technicpnp "MOST" Adapter Harness --->
• Speaker Wire ( ---> P6 )
• ---> Helix SDMI25 "MOST" Converter --->
• Toslink Cable (1) --->
• ---> Helix PS DSP MK2 (6 Ch.) DSP/Amp. --->
• Kolossus Fleks Kable 4 Gauge Red Power Wire w/ (1) Ring Terminal
• Kolossus Fleks Kable 4 Gauge Black Ground Wire w/ (2) Ring Terminals
• Remote power trigger wiring
• Noico .80mm (18Sq.Ft.) Sound Deadening
• Focal ES100K Kit - (2) Front & Rear (I don't want to mix)
• Front & Rear Speaker Technicpnp Speaker Mounting Adapters - OEM Connector Wiring Adapters
• Center Channel - Omitted
• Audio Development W800 NEO Woofer - (2) Underseats
• Woofer(s) Technicpnp SWS-8 Mounting spacers - OEM Connector Wiring Adapters
• ¾” (DIY?) Thick Woofer Spacers.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Can the Speaker wires remain bare from the Tecnics harness to the P6 or do I have to put (RCA?) ends on them?

The SDMi25 and the P6 will be next to each other in the left side of the trunk (Bttry. on the right) of my F83. how much (+-) Power & Ground wire would you
suggest I need?

Also, since the OEM Amp. will no longer be (connected to anything?) in use, can I remove it and use its' base plate as a mounting plate for the P6?

Cheers!

Thank you!

Btw, regarding the TechnicPnP adapter/harness kit, there are other options. TechnicPnP sells the pigtail but you have to purchase the speaker adapter with it (for $45/set!). If you don’t need the speaker adapter ring you can order the pigtails alone on eBay, or if you prefer, you can make your own pigtail.

My Focal tweeters had wires already soldered to them so I ended up using them and adding an OEM connector to the end. I just crimped and soldered the wire to the Molex pins that come with the connector and then you insert them (they’ll click). These are the part numbers for the OEM connector:

Male Connector (comes w/pins): 61132360043
Female Connector: 61138373583

** Note: I listed the Female Connector but chances are you won’t need it. Since you are going to run a wire for the mids in the doors (you can do whatever you want there), you’ll only need the Male connector to wire the tweeters to the existing factory harness.

 

[Dr. Who]

Btw, regarding the TechnicPnP adapter/harness kit, there are other options. TechnicPnP sells the pigtail but you have to purchase the speaker adapter with it (for $45/set!). If you don’t need the speaker adapter ring you can order the pigtails alone on eBay, or if you prefer, you can make your own pigtail.

My Focal tweeters had wires already soldered to them so I ended up using them and adding an OEM connector to the end. I just crimped and soldered the wire to the Molex pins that come with the connector and then you insert them (they’ll click). These are the part numbers for the OEM connector:

Male Connector (comes w/pins): 61132360043
Female Connector: 61138373583

** Note: I listed the Female Connector but chances are you won’t need it. Since you are going to run a wire for the mids in the doors (you can do whatever you want there), you’ll only need the Male connector to wire the tweeters to the existing factory harness.

Btw, regarding the TechnicPnP adapter/harness kit, there are other options. TechnicPnP sells the pigtail but you have to purchase the speaker adapter with it (for $45/set!). If you don’t need the speaker adapter ring you can order the pigtails alone on eBay, or if you prefer, you can make your own pigtail.

My Focal tweeters had wires already soldered to them so I ended up using them and adding an OEM connector to the end. I just crimped and soldered the wire to the Molex pins that come with the connector and then you insert them (they’ll click). These are the part numbers for the OEM connector:

Male Connector (comes w/pins): 61132360043
Female Connector: 61138373583

** Note: I listed the Female Connector but chances are you won’t need it. Since you are going to run a wire for the mids in the doors (you can do whatever you want there), you’ll only need the Male connector to wire the tweeters to the existing factory harness.

Hey,

I think I do need the "technic" (Mid's.) speaker adapters for the ES K100's.

I hadn't planned to run any wiring in the doors or the rear panels. I thought that connecting the Mid's. to the existing (w/ the pigtails) harness was all that was needed.


??Cheers??

;-)

 

[jimmydee]

Sorry for the delay in responding... I'm actually on vacation right now, so not in front of the computer much.

The list of items you posted, looks 99% complete. But you will also need an inline fuse holder with an 80 amp fuse (for the P6-DSP).

The battery is in the trunk, so you will only need about 3 or 4 feet of power wire. You should figure out where you want to mount it, and then measure from the battery to the mounting location, in order to properly determine how much power / ground cable you'll need.

You will also need some 16awg (18awg will work too) cable to run a positive and negative to the SDMI25 (in addition to the remote trigger wire, which runs from the SDMI to the P-Six).

You can absolutely remove the OEM amplifier, and mount the P-Six in that location.

As far as the speaker wire adapters (that Shasta mentioned); I didn't even think of those, as I ran all new speaker wire to each of my speakers. Best to refer to whatever he recommends for these, as I have no experience with them / or know where to source them.

 

[phocas]

Another +1 for Jimmydee, hell of a resource around here. Perhaps a bad influence too.

 

[ShastaMcNasty]

In the X3M and X6M (and likely most of the other models), the OEM wiring is actually a single wire that goes directly to the mids. There is an “out” on the mids that then goes to the tweeters (with an in-line filter to keep low frequencies out).

If you have the center channel speaker just lift the grill and take a look at how it’s wired up in there (note: you’ll need a T-20 Torx head to get the bolts out... this is true everywhere else you need to access except for the bolts used to hold down the seats. Those were T-50 on my . Oh, and you’ll need an extension to reach the Torx bolts that hold the door card on). The wiring to the center channel is the same for the doors.

If you are using the Focal kit and it has the crossover, you should be able to connect the OEM wire to the crossover, and then you can go directly to the mid and tweeter from there... it just means you’ll need to find a spot in the door to mount the crossover (I don’t know where a good spot is but I’m sure you’ll find a place).

If you don’t have a crossover you’ll need to at least run one wire to each door to connect to the mids (you might as well use the larger gauge wire for the mids... I used the OEM wire for the tweeters since I was feeding less power to them).

If you’re not clear on the layout and can’t get to the center channel let me know. I can take a picture of the layout for you!

 

[Dr. Who]

In the X3M and X6M (and likely most of the other models), the OEM wiring is actually a single wire that goes directly to the mids. There is an “out” on the mids that then goes to the tweeters (with an in-line filter to keep low frequencies out).

If you have the center channel speaker just lift the grill and take a look at how it’s wired up in there (note: you’ll need a T-20 Torx head to get the bolts out... this is true everywhere else you need to access except for the bolts used to hold down the seats. Those were T-50 on my . Oh, and you’ll need an extension to reach the Torx bolts that hold the door card on). The wiring to the center channel is the same for the doors.

If you are using the Focal kit and it has the crossover, you should be able to connect the OEM wire to the crossover, and then you can go directly to the mid and tweeter from there... it just means you’ll need to find a spot in the door to mount the crossover (I don’t know where a good spot is but I’m sure you’ll find a place).

If you don’t have a crossover you’ll need to at least run one wire to each door to connect to the mids (you might as well use the larger gauge wire for the mids... I used the OEM wire for the tweeters since I was feeding less power to them).

If you’re not clear on the layout and can’t get to the center channel let me know. I can take a picture of the layout for you!

Ok., Mr. Mcnasty,

The OEM wiring is just like you described it. One harness that splits, towards the (top) end, to feed the Tweeter

From the Few install photos I've seen on the inter-web, the Focal (ES100K) Tweeter and Mid are wired separately. Both of these go into the Crossover (outs) and there's another
pair of connectors (in) on the crossover, which I presume is where the OEM Wiring (Harness - Bare wire) get's plugged into.

… Which I guess, is exactly what you wrote!

;-)

Thanks!


Cheers!

 

[Dr. Who]

Sorry for the delay in responding... I'm actually on vacation right now, so not in front of the computer much.

The list of items you posted, looks 99% complete. But you will also need an inline fuse holder with an 80 amp fuse (for the P6-DSP).

The battery is in the trunk, so you will only need about 3 or 4 feet of power wire. You should figure out where you want to mount it, and then measure from the battery to the mounting location, in order to properly determine how much power / ground cable you'll need.

You will also need some 16awg (18awg will work too) cable to run a positive and negative to the SDMI25 (in addition to the remote trigger wire, which runs from the SDMI to the P-Six).

You can absolutely remove the OEM amplifier, and mount the P-Six in that location.

As far as the speaker wire adapters (that Shasta mentioned); I didn't even think of those, as I ran all new speaker wire to each of my speakers. Best to refer to whatever he recommends for these, as I have no experience with them / or know where to source them.

Thanks Jimmy!

Be Safe!!

Have Great Time!!!

[Edit:] P.S.: * What gauge wire did you use for the "sdmi25" hook up? I saw the blue trigger wire @knu but, theirs is 18 gauge wire.
------------ > * Did you re-use the OEM under seat woofer enclosure with the AD Neos? If so, did you need to remove it?

 

[ShastaMcNasty]

Oh, I forgot the wire splits in the center channel. The doors is slightly different in that the split is done with the “out” connection on the mids themselves. You’ll see what I mean. Regardless, it doesn’t change anything in your setup. You’ll have the one OEM wire going in to the crossover and then your own wires coming out of the crossovers to the speakers.

Good luck! Take lots of pics!

 

[Dr. Who]

Oh, I forgot the wire splits in the center channel. The doors is slightly different in that the split is done with the “out” connection on the mids themselves. You’ll see what I mean. Regardless, it doesn’t change anything in your setup. You’ll have the one OEM wire going in to the crossover and then your own wires coming out of the crossovers to the speakers.

Good luck! Take lots of pics!

It will be a while but, I definitely will!!

Thanks!

 

[Gary Mac]

Yes, the mids/tweeters for the front doors and the center channel are wired this way (the rears might be too but I haven’t done those yet). The wire for the tweeters comes off the mid speaker itself and there is an in-line high-pass filter. P

I only wired the mids in my build and it worked out well. I also used a harness from TechnicPnP that mated up with the OEM speaker wires (it acted as the female output from the OEM HK amp). I just connected the wires from the harness to my amp’s output and it connected directly to the male end of the OEM harness. This way I didn’t have to cut/splice any of the factory wires. Link to the wire harness is below.

I have to warn you that running that mid wire to the front doors is a pain in the @ss... especially the passenger side (the Molex enters right behind the front fuse panels, so it is difficult to get the wires through).

Logic7/HK/EPS/Individual Audio/Bang & Olufsen/Bowers & Wilkins MOST OEM amp replacement hardware kit for MOST Converter applications - Technic PNP

The MOST OEM amp replacement hardware kit for MOST Converter applications is designed to replace the MOST (fiber optics inputs) OEM amp without cutting, splicing or tapping any OEM wires. A MOST Converter unit is required and not included. MOST Converter unit examples are Audison DMI and all...

technicpnp.com

Hey, thanks for the response on this. I have emailed the guy to verify this was the harness, but he never got back to me.

 

[Gary Mac]

Hey Jimmy,

Do you have the sdmi installed in the driver's side 1/4 panel? Does it have to be installed there?

Gary

 

[Dr. Who]

Hey Jimmy,

Do you have the sdmi installed in the driver's side 1/4 panel? Does it have to be installed there?

Gary

Hey,

Sorry to butt in....

It's usually installed near the Amp. Since the OEM Amp. is usually (BMW cars) in that spot, most would (see my post with a similar query, above) install
their replacement Amp. there - left rear quarter pane - and thus, the SDMi25 would be in close proximity to it.

Cheers!

;-)

 

[Gary Mac]

Hey,

Sorry to butt in....

It's usually installed near the Amp. Since the OEM Amp. is usually (BMW cars) in that spot, most would (see my post with a similar query, above) install
their replacement Amp. there - left rear quarter pane - and thus, the SDMi25 would be in close proximity to it.

Cheers!

;-)

Hey, thanks. I am going to put my DSP in the Spare tire area of my X5 (very similar to Jimmys with different gear) and just wanted to verify so I could purchase the correct length SPDIF cable.

Gary