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When I hook my navTV directly to my garage stereo via the optical cable it is just as loud as any other signal that I feed it, thats why I thought it might just be something with the VXi.... anyway, I can live with it but it would sure be nice if there was an additional "boost" for the output when using optical to allow for a higher volume maximum from the head unit.
There is a loudness toggle dip switch on the Nav TV. In the manual it seemed to indicate it is for bass, though. I haven't tried it.
 

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There is a loudness toggle dip switch on the Nav TV. In the manual it seemed to indicate it is for bass, though. I haven't tried it.
So I actually thought that might have been it the other day and tested in both positions and it made no difference. I think that may be for the analog outputs only. I asked NavTv about that but they never got back to me.

The JL tech did get back to me today (great customer service there!) and gave me the procedure to bump the signal a few DBs. It is actually pretty simple but he said to be careful as you have to disable the error checking to get it to work.

He assured me that the amp will reach the rated power you just have to crank the volume a bit higher to get there, as we have all noted. He said the tweak to the input level would allow for a bit more headroom on the volume knob its just not recommended
 

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There is a loudness toggle dip switch on the Nav TV. In the manual it seemed to indicate it is for bass, though. I haven't tried it.
So I actually thought that might have been it the other day and tested in both positions and it made no difference. I think that may be for the analog outputs only. I asked NavTv about that but they never got back to me.

The JL tech did get back to me today (great customer service there!) and gave me the procedure to bump the signal a few DBs. It is actually pretty simple but he said to be careful as you have to disable the error checking to get it to work.

He assured me that the amp will reach the rated power you just have to crank the volume a bit higher to get there, as we have all noted. He said the tweak to the input level would allow for a bit more headroom on the volume knob its just not recommended
So yeah I think you're right the loudness is only for analog.

I did some more investigation and it turns out my installer just really didnt try very hard at all. I bought a laptop today so that I can tune the dsp myself. He didnt use the crossovers in the dsp but used the ones on the amps instead and just left all the gains at the lowest possible setting. So there is gobs of power available.

He put my 7 inch Hertz Legend midbass in the front on 2 70 watt channels and put the stock B&O rear speakers on the 250 watt per channel amp. So either he's a complete idiot, or I am for paying him to do this job. Probably both.
 

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So yeah I think you're right the loudness is only for analog.

I did some more investigation and it turns out my installer just really didnt try very hard at all. I bought a laptop today so that I can tune the dsp myself. He didnt use the crossovers in the dsp but used the ones on the amps instead and just left all the gains at the lowest possible setting. So there is gobs of power available.

He put my 7 inch Hertz Legend midbass in the front on 2 70 watt channels and put the stock B&O rear speakers on the 250 watt per channel amp. So either he's a complete idiot, or I am for paying him to do this job. Probably both.
Brutal! Well if you want to try the JL trick to boost the signal it is pretty simple. I can post some screen shots later, but basically all you have to do is uncheck that box about error correction in the project settings, click OK to the warning, then once you do that on the inputs screen to the right of the digital inputs, that "mixer level trim" will allow you to specify a positive number. Previously this was not allowed. JL tech said not to go past 3db or you could be in trouble. He said do this as a last resort, so just be careful if you try it as not to fry your gear.

One more thing to add - once you disable the error checking you will not be able to re-enabled it unless you start a clean project - so if you have a tune you are working on make a backup copy first!
 

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Brutal! Well if you want to try the JL trick to boost the signal it is pretty simple. I can post some screen shots later, but basically all you have to do is uncheck that box about error correction in the project settings, click OK to the warning, then once you do that on the inputs screen to the right of the digital inputs, that "mixer level trim" will allow you to specify a positive number. Previously this was not allowed. JL tech said not to go past 3db or you could be in trouble. He said do this as a last resort, so just be careful if you try it as not to fry your gear.

One more thing to add - once you disable the error checking you will not be able to re-enabled it unless you start a clean project - so if you have a tune you are working on make a backup copy first!
Man, perfect timing on this post! My vxi amp sounds amazing, but like most on this thread with optical in, I have all of my outputs at damn near +12 to get any kind of volume. (I'm in an f250 with the Sony system and the Pac module with optical out)

If you've got a screen shot that would be very helpful to the group I'm sure!

Manville: If we bump this input up does this potentially void the warranty??
 

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Brutal! Well if you want to try the JL trick to boost the signal it is pretty simple. I can post some screen shots later, but basically all you have to do is uncheck that box about error correction in the project settings, click OK to the warning, then once you do that on the inputs screen to the right of the digital inputs, that "mixer level trim" will allow you to specify a positive number. Previously this was not allowed. JL tech said not to go past 3db or you could be in trouble. He said do this as a last resort, so just be careful if you try it as not to fry your gear.

One more thing to add - once you disable the error checking you will not be able to re-enabled it unless you start a clean project - so if you have a tune you are working on make a backup copy first!
Cool trick for sure. Not sure I fully understand the need if your gain levels aren't maxed out and aren't at the distortion point yet. Maybe they are though. I don't actually have a JL amp right now. I had a vxi 700/5 but I ended up trading it out for a mosconi and a helix. It sounded great but I thought I needed more power and wanted the helix director controller in my life. The Mosconi amps I got are nice but being way underutilized obviously the way he set them up. I'll work on it this weekend.
 

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Cool trick for sure. Not sure I fully understand the need if your gain levels aren't maxed out and aren't at the distortion point yet. Maybe they are though. I don't actually have a JL amp right now. I had a vxi 700/5 but I ended up trading it out for a mosconi and a helix. It sounded great but I thought I needed more power and wanted the helix director controller in my life. The Mosconi amps I got are nice but being way underutilized obviously the way he set them up. I'll work on it this weekend.
Ahh ok - So the problem is there is no "gain" control on the VXi when using optical input. It is just a flat, fixed signal.

I see you are in SA, where abouts? I am just outside up in Garden Ridge:beerchug:
 

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Ahh ok - So the problem is there is no "gain" control on the VXi when using optical input. It is just a flat, fixed signal.

I see you are in SA, where abouts? I am just outside up in Garden Ridge<img src="http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/images/smilies/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Beerchug" class="inlineimg" />
Ahhhhhh, that does make sense. Not sure if my dsp has a gain control for the dig input but it runs analog out to the amps of course.

I'm sort of 1604 I10 area. I work in the rim at Medtronic. We should grab a beer sometime and compare "notes". I've been out of the game a long time and never really had much money to spend on car stereo before anyway.

What kind of tunes are you running through your system?
 

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Ahhhhhh, that does make sense. Not sure if my dsp has a gain control for the dig input but it runs analog out to the amps of course.

I'm sort of 1604 I10 area. I work in the rim at Medtronic. We should grab a beer sometime and compare "notes". I've been out of the game a long time and never really had much money to spend on car stereo before anyway.

What kind of tunes are you running through your system?
Nice man we definitely should. I am new to this game but learning at an exponential rate thanks to sites like this :D

I listen to just about everything from country to hip hop, live Dead as well, but mainly rock and electronic. However, as soon as this Friday hits this week the new TOOL album will be on repeat for several weeks :cool:
 

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Nice man we definitely should. I am new to this game but learning at an exponential rate thanks to sites like this :D

I listen to just about everything from country to hip hop, live Dead as well, but mainly rock and electronic. However, as soon as this Friday hits this week the new TOOL album will be on repeat for several weeks :cool:
With all the build-up, this album better be good. I'd hate to see them go 180 degrees in a different direction with their music like a few others have done over the years. I just hope we're not all setting ourselves up to be disappointed come Friday! LOL.

With my tune where it presently is (almost perfect as far as I can tell), I have found myself going back and revisiting music that I haven't listened to in years. It's like I've rediscovered Pink Floyd for the first time...holy crap! Experiencing Tool on a properly tuned system is just as enjoyable.
 

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With all the build-up, this album better be good. I'd hate to see them go 180 degrees in a different direction with their music like a few others have done over the years. I just hope we're not all setting ourselves up to be disappointed come Friday! LOL.

With my tune where it presently is (almost perfect as far as I can tell), I have found myself going back and revisiting music that I haven't listened to in years. It's like I've rediscovered Pink Floyd for the first time...holy crap! Experiencing Tool on a properly tuned system is just as enjoyable.
The Fear Inoculum single was f-in awesome, and Descending and Invincible rocked hard live when I saw them this past spring so I am confident :cool:

Once I quit swapping components I need to get a good tune in place and rediscover some old tunes as well! Pink Floyd definitely on there... Perhaps a Zepplin 1-4 run down as well :D
 

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Ahh ok - So the problem is there is no "gain" control on the VXi when using optical input. It is just a flat, fixed signal.

I see you are in SA, where abouts? I am just outside up in Garden Ridge:beerchug:
Reading the last few posts in this thread, aren't you guys talking about using the "expert tuning" in the DSP? There are three levels of tuning available in the TuN software. The "expert" option opens up a few areas that aren't meant to be used by novices. The warnings are just to ensure you understand that by using this level of control, you are running the risk of damaging your speakers...if you screw something up. The below is from JL's website;

Project Level:

Sometimes you need maximum flexibility and complexity,
and sometimes you don’t. To address your particular Project with
appropriate complexity, the TüN™ software offers three Project Level
choices: Basic, Advanced or Expert.

Basic: offers a streamlined feature set with common sense safeguards
designed for efficient system tuning. It is ideal for first time DSP users and
time-sensitive projects. You will have access to the Input Mixer and Router,
DRC Setup, Output Polarity, 10-band Graphic Equalizers, High-Pass and
Low Pass Filters (12, 24 or 48 dB/octave, Linkwitz-Riley) and Level
Trim controls.

Advanced: offers a full feature set with restrained safeguards to prevent
accidental damage to the audio system. This is ideal for experienced DSP
users looking to get full advantage of the TwK’s power, while avoiding
certain pitfalls that can result in poor performance or speaker damage. You
will be able to access all the Basic Level features listed above, plus summing
polarity, fully parametric 10-band EQ’s and channel delays.

Expert: offers the complete feature set with no safeguards. This level is
only for expert users who have no need for technical support. Additional
crossover filter slopes and alignments are added with the following
safeguards and constraints disabled: crossover frequency safety mute,
parametric EQ boost limits and automatic summing level. You can easily get
very bad sound and/or speaker damage if you are not careful.
When in doubt, choose “Advanced”.

Changing Project Levels of an existing Project: If you begin a Project at
one Project Level and wish to change to a higher Project Level, this can be
accomplished with “Project Settings”.

IMPORTANT: ONCE YOU MOVE A PROJECT INTO A HIGHER PROJECT
LEVEL, IT CANNOT BE RETURNED TO A LOWER PROJECT LEVEL. IF YOU
THINK YOU MIGHT NEED TO GO BACK, CREATE A COPY OF THE PROJECT
AND STORE IT IN YOUR PC, BEFORE CHANGING THE PROJECT LEVEL.

https://jlaudio.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/224207528-TüN-Software-Overview
 

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Reading the last few posts in this thread, aren't you guys talking about using the "expert tuning" in the DSP? There are three levels of tuning available in the TuN software. The "expert" option opens up a few areas that aren't meant to be used by novices. The warnings are just to ensure you understand that by using this level of control, you are running the risk of damaging your speakers...if you screw something up. The below is from JL's website;

Project Level:

Sometimes you need maximum flexibility and complexity,
and sometimes you don’t. To address your particular Project with
appropriate complexity, the TüN™ software offers three Project Level
choices: Basic, Advanced or Expert.

Basic: offers a streamlined feature set with common sense safeguards
designed for efficient system tuning. It is ideal for first time DSP users and
time-sensitive projects. You will have access to the Input Mixer and Router,
DRC Setup, Output Polarity, 10-band Graphic Equalizers, High-Pass and
Low Pass Filters (12, 24 or 48 dB/octave, Linkwitz-Riley) and Level
Trim controls.

Advanced: offers a full feature set with restrained safeguards to prevent
accidental damage to the audio system. This is ideal for experienced DSP
users looking to get full advantage of the TwK’s power, while avoiding
certain pitfalls that can result in poor performance or speaker damage. You
will be able to access all the Basic Level features listed above, plus summing
polarity, fully parametric 10-band EQ’s and channel delays.

Expert: offers the complete feature set with no safeguards. This level is
only for expert users who have no need for technical support. Additional
crossover filter slopes and alignments are added with the following
safeguards and constraints disabled: crossover frequency safety mute,
parametric EQ boost limits and automatic summing level. You can easily get
very bad sound and/or speaker damage if you are not careful.
When in doubt, choose “Advanced”.

Changing Project Levels of an existing Project: If you begin a Project at
one Project Level and wish to change to a higher Project Level, this can be
accomplished with “Project Settings”.

IMPORTANT: ONCE YOU MOVE A PROJECT INTO A HIGHER PROJECT
LEVEL, IT CANNOT BE RETURNED TO A LOWER PROJECT LEVEL. IF YOU
THINK YOU MIGHT NEED TO GO BACK, CREATE A COPY OF THE PROJECT
AND STORE IT IN YOUR PC, BEFORE CHANGING THE PROJECT LEVEL.

https://jlaudio.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/224207528-TüN-Software-Overview

So the 3 levels of project went away with the new TUN 3.0. Basically we have advanced mode all the time now with some expert flair sprinkled around.
 

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This will be my first car audio install and I have some strategy questions.

I have a VX800/8i for a 3-way front stage and a VX600/1i for dual 4ohm 10” subs. I have a very tight space and thought of a way to eliminate the very large RCA bundle completely on the VX800.

I could run my analog Left & Right RCA’s from the aftermarket Kenwood into the VX600 Sub amp first. Set my input gains ounce and route the signal through the Pre L/R Equalizer bank thru the optical outputs to the VX800. I would then utilize all 8 eq’s on the VX800 to produce a Flat Response for all speakers T/M/MB & Subwoofer and send the Subwoofer back to the VX600 through the Optical output. In the VX600 I would sum the sub L&R signal and pass it through eq #1 with no cross-overs set because everything is set for a flat response in the VX800. I would use my main DRC-250 on the VX800 amp to control master volume and the sub volume on the optical sub output signal. I would use the presets for driver/center/passenger settings.

My main reason for this setup is two fold 1) I can eliminate the large bundle of rca’s on the VX800 which I don’t need and set the analog gain ounce in the vx600 and then stay digital through the transfer between amps and 2) my plan is to use the incoming analog signal in the VX600 going through the Pre-L/R linked eq bank as a tonal house curve preset Equalization setting. And I could use a second DRC on the VX600 amp to toggle between tonal presets.

My question is can I set a tonality house curve on a signal going into the VX800 amp where all the speakers were set to flat essentially now coloring their output vs setting every speakers eq’d output to follow each house curve in the Vx800? This would give a huge advantage for trying different house curves without having to adjust every speakers eq’s for each curve and having a million presets for each position.

Will this work? My questions are:

1. Are there any issues with this method that could reduce the overall system loudness potential? I’ve seen posts about optical signals not being as loud as analog. Hopefully this will not reduce my sub output potential.
2. Could there be issues with center image tuning which is set on the VX800 when changing house curves on it’s input signal? or phase changes causing problems?

On the VX600 I would obviously have a flat preset with no crossovers or equalization on the Pre L/R eq to pass the signal to the VX800 for tuning of all the speakers for a flat response for each position preset. Once the VX800 is set, no further eq’ing will be performed and all the tonal eq’ing will be done in the VX600.
 

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This will be my first car audio install and I have some strategy questions.



I have a VX800/8i for a 3-way front stage and a VX600/1i for dual 4ohm 10” subs. I have a very tight space and thought of a way to eliminate the very large RCA bundle completely on the VX800.



I could run my analog Left & Right RCA’s from the aftermarket Kenwood into the VX600 Sub amp first. Set my input gains ounce and route the signal through the Pre L/R Equalizer bank thru the optical outputs to the VX800. I would then utilize all 8 eq’s on the VX800 to produce a Flat Response for all speakers T/M/MB & Subwoofer and send the Subwoofer back to the VX600 through the Optical output. In the VX600 I would sum the sub L&R signal and pass it through eq #1 with no cross-overs set because everything is set for a flat response in the VX800. I would use my main DRC-250 on the VX800 amp to control master volume and the sub volume on the optical sub output signal. I would use the presets for driver/center/passenger settings.



My main reason for this setup is two fold 1) I can eliminate the large bundle of rca’s on the VX800 which I don’t need and set the analog gain ounce in the vx600 and then stay digital through the transfer between amps and 2) my plan is to use the incoming analog signal in the VX600 going through the Pre-L/R linked eq bank as a tonal house curve preset Equalization setting. And I could use a second DRC on the VX600 amp to toggle between tonal presets.



My question is can I set a tonality house curve on a signal going into the VX800 amp where all the speakers were set to flat essentially now coloring their output vs setting every speakers eq’d output to follow each house curve in the Vx800? This would give a huge advantage for trying different house curves without having to adjust every speakers eq’s for each curve and having a million presets for each position.



Will this work? My questions are:



1. Are there any issues with this method that could reduce the overall system loudness potential? I’ve seen posts about optical signals not being as loud as analog. Hopefully this will not reduce my sub output potential.

2. Could there be issues with center image tuning which is set on the VX800 when changing house curves on it’s input signal? or phase changes causing problems?



On the VX600 I would obviously have a flat preset with no crossovers or equalization on the Pre L/R eq to pass the signal to the VX800 for tuning of all the speakers for a flat response for each position preset. Once the VX800 is set, no further eq’ing will be performed and all the tonal eq’ing will be done in the VX600.
Checking on this...

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 

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This will be my first car audio install and I have some strategy questions.



I have a VX800/8i for a 3-way front stage and a VX600/1i for dual 4ohm 10” subs. I have a very tight space and thought of a way to eliminate the very large RCA bundle completely on the VX800.



I could run my analog Left & Right RCA’s from the aftermarket Kenwood into the VX600 Sub amp first. Set my input gains ounce and route the signal through the Pre L/R Equalizer bank thru the optical outputs to the VX800. I would then utilize all 8 eq’s on the VX800 to produce a Flat Response for all speakers T/M/MB & Subwoofer and send the Subwoofer back to the VX600 through the Optical output. In the VX600 I would sum the sub L&R signal and pass it through eq #1 with no cross-overs set because everything is set for a flat response in the VX800. I would use my main DRC-250 on the VX800 amp to control master volume and the sub volume on the optical sub output signal. I would use the presets for driver/center/passenger settings.



My main reason for this setup is two fold 1) I can eliminate the large bundle of rca’s on the VX800 which I don’t need and set the analog gain ounce in the vx600 and then stay digital through the transfer between amps and 2) my plan is to use the incoming analog signal in the VX600 going through the Pre-L/R linked eq bank as a tonal house curve preset Equalization setting. And I could use a second DRC on the VX600 amp to toggle between tonal presets.



My question is can I set a tonality house curve on a signal going into the VX800 amp where all the speakers were set to flat essentially now coloring their output vs setting every speakers eq’d output to follow each house curve in the Vx800? This would give a huge advantage for trying different house curves without having to adjust every speakers eq’s for each curve and having a million presets for each position.



Will this work? My questions are:



1. Are there any issues with this method that could reduce the overall system loudness potential? I’ve seen posts about optical signals not being as loud as analog. Hopefully this will not reduce my sub output potential.

2. Could there be issues with center image tuning which is set on the VX800 when changing house curves on it’s input signal? or phase changes causing problems?



On the VX600 I would obviously have a flat preset with no crossovers or equalization on the Pre L/R eq to pass the signal to the VX800 for tuning of all the speakers for a flat response for each position preset. Once the VX800 is set, no further eq’ing will be performed and all the tonal eq’ing will be done in the VX600.
I have answers and comments but will wait until i am at an actual keyboard later tonight.


Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 

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Greetings

The plan is to use 2 - VX800/8i, and 2-VX1000/1i.

The question is, do I "have" to use the Network Hub, when using multiple VX units?

Can I - Take the optical input into the first VX unit-optical out, and VX unit - optical in. And keep going in and out all four units via the optical ins and out?

Doing this will get rid of the network hub.

NOW if I have to use the network hub, on Once the signal goes into the Network hub, can I use the optical outs in the network hub and go to each unit via optical? Or do I "have" to use the network wire to go from the network hub into each unit?

Thank you
 

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My only knock on the vxi amps is they don’t have a center channel up mixer. I’m currently running 3 way c7s , 2 tw5s , vxi800/8, vxi1000/1 and it sounds great I just wish I could add a center and at that point I would add rears as well. Other then that after I had Randy Schwartz tune it for me I am more than happy with my little class D amps and selling my Mosconi zeros.
 
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