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To all you VXI and car audio pros. I would love some help.

I'm going a setup in a new Shelby mustang.

The car has the OEM B&O set up. I have going to use the stock hear unit/dash set up.

I'm going to run Hertz Legends 3 way pass. Comp. in the front and 2 way Hertz Legends pass comp. rear.
2 JL 10" W6 subs in a small sealed box.

ok now for the help.

I was thinking of running

VX800i run Bridged @ 4Ω x 4. for front and rear highs.
VX1000/1i for the subs.

I was thinking of running the VXI-Hub Unit ? and the DRC-205 Remote?

Is there anything more I should add? Should I have something between the Stock OEM set up and the VXI amps to help clean up the Signal and give HIgh volt power to the input of the VXI amp's ????



Thanks for any help and input.
If it were me, I would ditch rear speakers altogether, and ditch the front crossovers, and run the Mille Legend 3-ways fully active off the VX800/8, with bridged channels to the mid-bass. I basically have that same setup, using XD800/8 to ML 3 way active and an XD1000/1. I'm using an external DSP, but same concept. I did install a VXi in my brother's car.
 

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Might as well add my VXi/MacBook pro (1 year old) issues. Can’t get it to connect regardless of the cable/dongle (apple and a couple other brands). I will spare the reader everything I tried to get it to work but I did everything I could think of, everything I could find online and a lot others more knowledgeable suggested. The only way to get a connection is doing a hard reset of the amp, then it works well. For anyone else doing this: make sure the radio is TURNED OFF as it WILL reset the DSP, including crossovers (if you’re running speakers active you really should have inline crossovers [capacitors] wired between the amp and tweeters to protect against human error or mechanical issues such as this). The software mutes all channels when connected to a computer but it won’t be muted between the rest and connecting to a computer.

Ive given up using my computer with it. But luckily I know someone who lets me barrow their Dell laptop, which works flawlessly with the VXi. Which is annoying, especially because its supposed Mac compatibility was a main reason to get it. Kinda wish I’d gone with AudioControl and saved a few hundred, and headaches.
 

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Might as well add my VXi/MacBook pro (1 year old) issues. Can’t get it to connect regardless of the cable/dongle (apple and a couple other brands). I will spare the reader everything I tried to get it to work but I did everything I could think of, everything I could find online and a lot others more knowledgeable suggested. The only way to get a connection is doing a hard reset of the amp, then it works well. For anyone else doing this: make sure the radio is TURNED OFF as it WILL reset the DSP, including crossovers. The software mutes all channels when connected to a computer but it won’t be muted between the rest and connecting to a computer.

Ive given up using my computer with it. But luckily I know someone who lets me barrow their Dell laptop, which works flawlessly with the VXi. Which is annoying, especially because its supposed Mac compatibility was a main reason to get it. Kinda wish I’d gone with AudioControl and saved a few hundred, and headaches.
That's annoying. I was able to connect easily to my brother's VX1000/5i, using my MacBook Pro, running OSX 11.4 (Big Sur). Hopefully I don't get the issues you got, as I need to spend more time tuning his system.
 

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I was having a hard time picking with my set up

VX800i run Bridged @ 4Ω x 4. for front and rear highs.
VX1000/1i for the subs.
VXI-Hub Unit
DRC-205 Remote

VS

Audsion SR 4.500
Audsion SR 1.500
Audsion bit One HD Virtuoso
Audsion DRC MP Remote
 

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I was having a hard time picking with my set up

VX800i run Bridged @ 4Ω x 4. for front and rear highs.
VX1000/1i for the subs.
VXI-Hub Unit
DRC-205 Remote

VS

Audsion SR 4.500
Audsion SR 1.500
Audsion bit One HD Virtuoso
Audsion DRC MP Remote
Why not VX800/8i running as 75x4 actively to front tweeters and front mids, and 200x2 to front mid-basses? Drop the rears
 
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That's annoying. I was able to connect easily to my brother's VX1000/5i, using my MacBook Pro, running OSX 11.4 (Big Sur). Hopefully I don't get the issues you got, as I need to spend more time tuning his system.
Hopefully it was something to do with the usb to lightening adapters (thunder, whatever they’re on now) that I’m using (one of which is Apples, purchased via their website so definitely not a knock offs). My computer (and amp) are fully up to date like yours (idk if your amp is, if it’s not don’t update it just yet incase that’s an issue). Once you do the hard reset it works fine though. But it’s annoying to have to do that every single time. I had this issue from the first time I tried using it. First thought was the amp being defective but luckily that wasn’t the case
 

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I tried a USB B to C cable with mine and it failed. Using the original cable with an adapter allowed me to connect on my 2018 MacBook Pro. I'm on Big Sur. For whatever reason, the Apple adapter didn't work, but a 3rd party one did. I also had a conflict with the JLid bluetooth adapter preventing my computer from connecting. Anyway, now that it's setup, it sounds fantastic.

Tim
 

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Dose it help if you run a JL Fix 86 from the oem head unit? Then from the Fix 86 to the vxi amps?

will this help at all?


Or just go with the oem head unit right to the v
 

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Dose it help if you run a JL Fix 86 from the oem head unit? Then from the Fix 86 to the vxi amps?

will this help at all?


Or just go with the oem head unit right to the v
It’ll help flatten your signal before reaching the vxi. I will be running a fix 82 to my vxi’s.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Does it help if you run a JL Fix 86 from the oem head unit? Then from the Fix 86 to the vxi amps?

will this help at all?

Or just go with the oem head unit right to the vxi
The JL Audio FiX units are old tech at this point and are just a "band-aid" solution.

Instead of the JL FiX, as previously posted look into getting the PAC Audio AmpPRO-4 Ford OEM integration interface, or iDataLink Maestro AR, or Rockford-Fosgate DSR1 to obtain a flat, clean, non-EQ'd line level RCA output signal from your OEM head unit to feed into your VXi DSP/Amps. Otherwise Garbage In (the OEM speaker level head unit outputs) = Garbage Out.


I'm with others in regards to ditching the rear speakers or just using the OEM speakers there and running the 3-way front Hertz Mille Legends fully active with the VXi 800/8. That's why you paid extra for the VXi DSP Amplifiers and you are completely wasting the VXi's features and DSP power if you don't use it to run your system fully active.

If you ditch the rear speakers altogether (it's a smallish cabin and the subs will be pounding back there anyway) then you don't even need the VXi Hub. The subwoofer channel(s) can be processed by channel 8 or 7/8 off of the
VX800/8i and the processed RCA Output can simply be fed to the VX1000/1i RCA inputs.

The most important thing is to obtain a clean, flat, non-EQ'd line level source signal from the OEM Head unit to feed to your DSP. The OEM speaker-level outputs are far from ideal for this.

And the OEM Warning Chimes and BT call audio may become problematic when adding the JL VXi's without an OEM integration Interface.

Depending on your OEM system, you may also need to install "load resistors" on the OEM speaker outputs.

AudioControl makes these specifically for Ford vehicles.

Some Links:

AmpPRO - PAC


AC LGD's: Do your line converters put a resistor load on the speaker outputs of my factory amp? | AudioControl


One of the best resources for information regarding installing aftermarket stereo equipment into late model Ford's are the videos on the YouTube channels 5 Star Car Stereo and Dean & Fernando's Car Stereo Clips (both from the same stereo shop).

They have installed multiple stereo systems in the new Ford Mustangs (and Dean owns a new Mustang convertible). They know what works and fits, and what doesn't. Search their YouTube channels for late model Mustang installation videos.
 

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@msmith Hi, I am new in this forum hehe, Interesting information throughout the thread, I read the full 36 pages.

I have a VX800/8i and a VX600/1i in my vehicle.
I always like to get an in-depth understanding of the system I have, and am really interested to know what op-amps these great amps use?
Could you help me with the answer?
 

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JessSpec, thanks for choosing VXi's! The VXi amps use no op-amps in their amplifier circuits. The signal processing boards use NJM2068V op-amps, which are very low noise op-amps ideal for that application.

Best regards.

Manville Smith
JL Audio, Inc.
 

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Good morning yall. Hoping for a bit of advice if I may. I have a 2017 Silverado Standard Cab and looking to upgrade my system. I am looking at 2 12" 12TW3 Shallow Mount subs for behind the bench ran to a VX1000/1i. Since its a single Cab Truck, I was going to run some Alpine X-S65C Components to the doors hooked up to a VX600/2i. Would I regret that decision on that Amp? Should I get the 4 or 6ch amp for possible future expansion or do you think the single set of components and VX600/2i should cover me well? Id rather buy once rather than worry about swapping the amp out later or adding another since space is pretty limited. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 

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Might as well save the money and get at least a 5ch VXi, that’ll be cheaper than a separate 2ch and mono and you’ll have the extra channels to run your tweeters and woofers active. If you went that route you could add another 2 or 4ch amp later if needed. Only thing is the 2ch is 180w RMS I we channel 4-8ch are 75w but can be bridged to 200w if needed. But it’ll cost about $2,000 for the 2ch and a 600w mono, a 5ch (75w x 4, 600x1) is 1,600. But it’ll be a lot more expensive to get a 5ch amp now and a 4ch later than an 8ch and mono. Definitely best to have more channels than you think you need and end up not using them than end up having to pay thousands or more for another amp on down the road
 

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Good morning yall. Hoping for a bit of advice if I may. I have a 2017 Silverado Standard Cab and looking to upgrade my system. I am looking at 2 12" 12TW3 Shallow Mount subs for behind the bench ran to a VX1000/1i. Since its a single Cab Truck, I was going to run some Alpine X-S65C Components to the doors hooked up to a VX600/2i. Would I regret that decision on that Amp? Should I get the 4 or 6ch amp for possible future expansion or do you think the single set of components and VX600/2i should cover me well? Id rather buy once rather than worry about swapping the amp out later or adding another since space is pretty limited. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Are you using the OEM stereo head unit as your source? If so, is it the 4.2" or 7" screen?

Or do you have an aftermarket head unit?

Do you use your iPhone or Android smartphone to play your music?


You might want to switch to the X-S69C 6"x9" version of the Alpine Type-X components...they provide incredible midbass when installed properly. :) They will fit in the Silverado doors if appropriate spacer/baffle rings are used.

Either way, Do Not use the cheap and flimsy plastic Metra speaker adapters to mount these high-end components in your doors! Buy or make SOLID mounting baffles that are HDPE, Acrylic/Plexiglass, or Sintra (expanded PVC sheet). I think that you'll be very happy with either the 6.5" or 6"x9" Type-X components. :)

The best way to use and take advantage of the features of the VXi DSP multi-channel amplifiers is to place each speaker and tweeter on its own separate channel to use the DSP and appropriate amplifier power to control and "tune" each of them independently for optimum performance. Passive Crossovers are very generic and crude and are just a "one size fits all" solution.

For the amplifiers I would go with the JL VX600/6i and bridge 4 of the channels down to 2 in order to power the front door 6.5" or 6"x9" midwoofers with up to 200 watts. Then use the remaining 2 channels to power the tweeters with up to 75 watts. Tweeters really only need a few watts to get really loud...seriously just 10 watts will make most tweeters scream, whereas you need EXPONENTIALLY more power to drive the 6.5" or 6"x9" midwoofers due to their exponentially larger size and cone mass.

You generally want to have plenty of extra power available for your main midwoofer or midbass speakers in order to reproduce the dynamic transient peaks in the lower midbass frequencies. Even though the midwoofers will only need 20-75 watts to reproduce 90% of your music at very loud levels, the dynamic transient peaks require extra instantaneous power and give your music that extra impact and WOW factor. Properly integrated Subwoofers will help to achieve this as well.

The multi-channel VXi amplifiers have 2 additional processed DSP Output Channels via two RCA output connectors. DSP adjustments can be applied to these 2 RCA outputs, which can then be connected to ANY standard subwoofer amplifier of your choice...

You do not need to spend the extra money for the DSP features of the VX1000/1i that you will not need or use. You can buy a less expensive and potentially smaller standard subwoofer amplifier to fit your limited space and to save money. Something like the Rockford-Fosgate Power T750X1bd, or any number of other small and even less expensive subwoofer amplifiers would work well. Just make sure that you purchase the appropriate voice coil versions of the Two JL 12TW3 subwoofers so when wired together they will provide the proper final Ohm Load to the amplifier that you choose.

And definitely get the JL DRC-205 remote to control master volume level, subwoofer level, and source selection/tuning presets. You would connect it to the VX600/6i, and because this amp is processing the subwoofer signal and controlling the RCA outputs to your separate subwoofer amplifier, you do not need a separate bass knob for your subwoofer amp.

PLEASE make sure to use lots of GOOD QUALITY sound deadening treatment in your front doors and Seal all of the holes and openings in the door sheetmetal where the 6.5" or 6"x9" midwoofers are mounted in order to achieve excellent midbass performance, and reduce any resonances and vibrations that will deteriorate the Sound Quality of your expensive component speakers. Treat the actual door panels as well! Check out the great products and installation guide at ResoNix Sound Solutions which is owned and operated by DIYMA member @SkizeR .

This setup should sound really really good...if it's properly installed and tuned. :)
 

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Thank you so much for that heads up. I’ll go with the VX600/6i then. I originally was going to go that route but for a single set of Components I wasn’t too sure. Also good to hear about the 1000/1i and not needing that. I obviously want the best sub amp I could get to push these subs where they need to be.
I have gone through and deadened the entire cab, floor, wall, doors and door skins, etc. anywhere I could.

I was going to go with the 6x9s but it is said they actually don’t fit my truck properly so that’s why I was going the 6.5 route.

I am using the Stinger Heigh10 Head Unit so I was really trying to utilize the optical out to run from the head unit to the VXi amp.

If I can save a decent amount by going to a non VXi sub amp, maybe I’ll step up into some Focal Components and run them active. 🤔
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Hey all, I have a pretty quick/simple question.

I have a VX800/8i amp installed in my Camper Van (2020 Ford Transit). Currently its analog audio inputs are connected to the Van's SYNC 3 analog audio outputs. I have a power selector switch that lets me run the amp off my van starter batteries, or switch to the house 12V lithium power bank

Works great when driving/with the van on. However, I'd like to be able to listen to music when the van ignition is turned off for extended periods of time, so I cannot connect my phone to the head unit to play music because it turns off after 30 minutes of no key.

Anyways, I basically want to be able to play music through the amp with both the analog inputs from the head unit (while driving), and I want to add a Bluetooth receiver so I can play music through the system when parked with the van/head unit off.

My initial thought was to buy a Schit SYS audio switcher. Schiit Audio: Audio Products Designed and Built in California

I'd connect the head unit RCAs to one pair of inputs, and then I'd connect a bluetooth receiver's RCAs to the other pair of inputs. Then the SYS output would go to the VXI analog input. I'd manually switch between Head unit input and Bluetooth receiver input when I switch the power source.
(like this: JL Audio MBT-RX)

However, after looking at the manual, I noticed the VXi Amp has a Digital audio input port as well. Could I just hook up a bluetooth audio receiver with a digital out cable to this port? Is there a way to easily switch from the analog audio input to digital audio input with the JL software (I have not fiddled with the TUN software at all yet)? If the amp has power, and there is no analog input signal but there is a digital audio input (and vice versa), will it automatically switch to the active audio source? This is the Bluetooth receiver I'm looking at that has digital audio out:

Audio Engine B1: B1 Bluetooth Music Receiver — Audioengine
iFi Zen Blue V2: iFi Zen Blue V2
Auris Blume HD: bluMe HD
Auris Blume Pro: bluMe Pro
Bludento BLT-HD: BluDento BLT-HD True Hi-Fi Bluetooth Audio Receiver
1Mii LavaAudio DS200: 1Mii Lavaudio DS200 Bluetooth HiI-FiI Receiver

Any help is appreciated! I want the best audio quality, but each of use is nice if the digital audio input is an option. Thank you
 

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Hey all, I have a pretty quick/simple question.

I have a VX800/8i amp installed in my Camper Van (2020 Ford Transit). Currently its analog audio inputs are connected to the Van's SYNC 3 analog audio outputs. I have a power selector switch that lets me run the amp off my van starter batteries, or switch to the house 12V lithium power bank

Works great when driving/with the van on. However, I'd like to be able to listen to music when the van ignition is turned off for extended periods of time, so I cannot connect my phone to the head unit to play music because it turns off after 30 minutes of no key.

Anyways, I basically want to be able to play music through the amp with both the analog inputs from the head unit (while driving), and I want to add a Bluetooth receiver so I can play music through the system when parked with the van/head unit off.

My initial thought was to buy a Schit SYS audio switcher. Schiit Audio: Audio Products Designed and Built in California

I'd connect the head unit RCAs to one pair of inputs, and then I'd connect a bluetooth receiver's RCAs to the other pair of inputs. Then the SYS output would go to the VXI analog input. I'd manually switch between Head unit input and Bluetooth receiver input when I switch the power source.
(like this: JL Audio MBT-RX)

However, after looking at the manual, I noticed the VXi Amp has a Digital audio input port as well. Could I just hook up a bluetooth audio receiver with a digital out cable to this port? Is there a way to easily switch from the analog audio input to digital audio input with the JL software (I have not fiddled with the TUN software at all yet)? If the amp has power, and there is no analog input signal but there is a digital audio input (and vice versa), will it automatically switch to the active audio source? This is the Bluetooth receiver I'm looking at that has digital audio out:

Audio Engine B1: B1 Bluetooth Music Receiver — Audioengine
iFi Zen Blue V2: iFi Zen Blue V2
Auris Blume HD: bluMe HD
Auris Blume Pro: bluMe Pro
Bludento BLT-HD: BluDento BLT-HD True Hi-Fi Bluetooth Audio Receiver
1Mii LavaAudio DS200: 1Mii Lavaudio DS200 Bluetooth HiI-FiI Receiver

Any help is appreciated! I want the best audio quality, but each of use is nice if the digital audio input is an option. Thank you
If you get one of the VXi remotes, you could set that up in the Tun software to easily switch between the digital input and the analog input. It's up to you whether you prefer the VXi remote for doing that versus the RCA switch that you linked above.

On a related note, I've had good luck with JL Audio's BT receiver: JL Audio MBT-RX

When using BT, you'd be using the phone to control the volume, obviously
 
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If you get one of the VXi remotes, you could set that up in the Tun software to easily switch between the digital input and the analog input. It's up to you whether you prefer the VXi remote for doing that versus the RCA switch that you linked above.

On a related note, I've had good luck with JL Audio's BT receiver: JL Audio MBT-RX

When using BT, you'd be using the phone to control the volume, obviously
Cool, I do have the VXi remote, and it's right by my power source switch so it'd be an easy thing to do.

Will there be any difference in audio quality going with the digital output vs the RCA for the Bluetooth receiver? Does the VX800/8i have a built in DAC essentially, so does it not matter?

I want to go with Bluetooth 5.0 so I can get long range and have my phone outside the van when music is playing (my rear speakers are mounted on the doors, so they can play outside music when the doors are open while camping). Otherwise the MBT-RX would be appealing for 12V power wiring. As it is with the other ones, I'd need to use a voltage regulator to 5v DC, or use the AC adapter to one of my outlets.
 
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