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Discussion Starter #21
So I tried something new with regards to my tuning process. In the past, I've always used full parametric EQ to tune my system. Only parametric EQ. However, the problem with parametric EQ is that when you want to try and adjust the "tonality" of the system "on the fly", it's almost impossible because there is no easy way to just bump up a freq range of both sides evenly - so you basically need to manually re-EQ each speaker individually even for simple tonality changes.

So I retuned my system - but this time, instead of using parametric EQ, I used a combination of both GEQ and PEQ. The system is 90% tuned using simple graphical EQ. Then I used some of the un-used bands outside of the speakers frequency range for a few allpass filters and a couple parametric filters to address any areas where graphical EQ just wasn't able to get the job done. Now, if I need to do any tonality adjustments of my dash speakers, for example (they play 500hz - 20khz), I just link the two channels in the Helix and adjust the appropriate GEQ bands. Super quick and easy.

This seems to work really well. I only needed a few parametric bands on a few channels. Tonality changes are quick and easy "on the fly" now instead of trying to manually adjust PEQ bands of each channel and end up with the same result on both channels - while sitting in the car listening to the results.

Just thought I'd share. I actually think my system sounds better now than it ever has - and I can VERY quickly and easily adjust the tonality now if/as needed. With the help of a few PEQ bands, I have left/right matching really well and also still have the ability to adjust freqs on both sides while keeping them matched. Best of both worlds.

For whatever reason,my brain always just went to using one or the other method (GEQ or PEQ) - and it never really crossed my mind to use a combination of them both.... :)
 

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Discussion Starter #22
call Nick Apicella and have him make you a pair of these... View attachment 275810
Not my style.... Not only do I imagine that they would cost more that I'd be willing to spend, but I wouldn't want to "learn by doing" with the installation of something as custom and expensive as those grilles. :) I'm also not going to drive to New York and back just to have Nick install them. :)

But besides all of that, probably the biggest reason is that I'm fully into the "DIY" part of things right now. I've done EVERYTHING for this install myself - and kind of enjoy doing this stuff myself and learning along the way. It's turned into a fulltime hobby that I really enjoy. I honestly don't want someone else to do it for me.

That all being said, for this issue, I think I'll just work-around the issue with EQ. After EQ, the only thing I really lose is a few dB in volume, but I actually have more volume than I need, so it's not a deal-breaker. One of those "nice to have, but not really needed" type of things. Someday, maybe I'll get serious and do something about it, but it's very low on the priority list.

Much higher on my priority list is to get my doors deadened. Going to do my first HDPE w/rivnuts install to seal up the holes in the doors (instead of just installing the deadener itself right over the holes, which will be a real PITA if I ever need to get my window regulator replaced or something like that. I want to be able to easily remove the panels to get access to the insides of the door - that way I can simply re-install the panels after any in-door work is done. Car only has about 11k miles on it, so I'll most likely have it for a while, so I want to do it right (or at least right'ish).
 

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So I tried something new with regards to my tuning process. In the past, I've always used full parametric EQ to tune my system. Only parametric EQ. However, the problem with parametric EQ is that when you want to try and adjust the "tonality" of the system "on the fly", it's almost impossible because there is no easy way to just bump up a freq range of both sides evenly - so you basically need to manually re-EQ each speaker individually even for simple tonality changes.

So I retuned my system - but this time, instead of using parametric EQ, I used a combination of both GEQ and PEQ. The system is 90% tuned using simple graphical EQ. Then I used some of the un-used bands outside of the speakers frequency range for a few allpass filters and a couple parametric filters to address any areas where graphical EQ just wasn't able to get the job done. Now, if I need to do any tonality adjustments of my dash speakers, for example (they play 500hz - 20khz), I just link the two channels in the Helix and adjust the appropriate GEQ bands. Super quick and easy.

This seems to work really well. I only needed a few parametric bands on a few channels. Tonality changes are quick and easy "on the fly" now instead of trying to manually adjust PEQ bands of each channel and end up with the same result on both channels - while sitting in the car listening to the results.

Just thought I'd share. I actually think my system sounds better now than it ever has - and I can VERY quickly and easily adjust the tonality now if/as needed. With the help of a few PEQ bands, I have left/right matching really well and also still have the ability to adjust freqs on both sides while keeping them matched. Best of both worlds.

For whatever reason,my brain always just went to using one or the other method (GEQ or PEQ) - and it never really crossed my mind to use a combination of them both.... :)
I think you may be on to something here. I started tuning using REW EQ and used it to import EQ files into the Helix. However, with my particular install having tweeters and mids up on the dash, REW was using too many parametric EQ bands. Some of them were so close together it was probably negligible difference. Remember, REW is mainly used for home theater and I am not quite sure it's able to adapt to more challenging tunes we see in vehicles.

What I did the other day was build separate driver curves to use in the Helix RTA (auto-set EQ) to let the DSP do most of the work. The fact that DSP Tool has the ability to give me an 85-90% product in a matter of minutes is pretty amazing. I tried the auto-set in the past using the left side/right side/sub technique in the past, but I actually think tuning individual driver curves using auto-set is giving me much better results and leaving a lot more bands open to do what you desribe above.
 

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I think you may be on to something here. I started tuning using REW EQ and used it to import EQ files into the Helix. However, with my particular install having tweeters and mids up on the dash, REW was using too many parametric EQ bands. Some of them were so close together it was probably negligible difference. Remember, REW is mainly used for home theater and I am not quite sure it's able to adapt to more challenging tunes we see in vehicles.

What I did the other day was build separate driver curves to use in the Helix RTA (auto-set EQ) to let the DSP do most of the work. The fact that DSP Tool has the ability to give me an 85-90% product in a matter of minutes is pretty amazing. I tried the auto-set in the past using the left side/right side/sub technique in the past, but I actually think tuning individual driver curves using auto-set is giving me much better results and leaving a lot more bands open to do what you desribe above.
You can choose how many bands it uses. Why do you assume less is better

Sent from my SM-G965U1 using Tapatalk
 

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Well I've seen it throw an EQ pulling 6db at 2,005 hz with a Q of 1.3 and another one throwing 3db back in at 2,020 with a Q of 4. That just seems to be a waste of two bands as I would assume there could be something you could throw in somewhere in the middle of those two that would give close to, if not the same result. Of course this could all be my lack of experience with REW.

I'm going to experiment with using Helix auto-set first, then using REW EQ after I RTA the results from the Helix. Then I'll input the parametric results from REW EQ.
 
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