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Discussion Starter #1
......of my 5.0 cu ft net box. Coming together really well ! I've never had so much fun sanding in my life ? No seriously, it sure is nice to have decent tools ! I just bought a belt sander that kicks ass ! Plus a DeWalt palm sander that also works super well. So I'm filling all the screw holes, and any visible seams. Going to prime it and spray it with black bed liner tomorrow. I've always carpeted my boxes, but I figure since I've went through so much trouble to make all the screw holes and seems disappear, why not make it look like it was milled from one ginormous block of wood ?

Still need to seal the inside, and then install both of the 15" passive radiators, as well as the 18" Skar subwoofer.

This will definitely be the cleanest, most solid enclosure I've ever built. And I'd bet my truck, my car, and all my camera gear that it's within 1/10th of a cubic foot of 5 cubes. Honestly I think it's much closer but anyway. I can tune it to whatever I want to depending on how much weight I add to my PR's. Kind of torn between Skars suggestion of 31 hz.... And WinIsd Pro looking best at like 28.5 hz....

Anyway, more pics tomorrow...
260933
 

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......of my 5.0 cu ft net box. Coming together really well ! I've never had so much fun sanding in my life No seriously, it sure is nice to have decent tools ! I just bought a belt sander that kicks ass ! Plus a DeWalt palm sander that also works super well. So I'm filling all the screw holes, and any visible seams. Going to prime it and spray it with black bed liner tomorrow. I've always carpeted my boxes, but I figure since I've went through so much trouble to make all the screw holes and seems disappear, why not make it look like it was milled from one ginormous block of wood

Still need to seal the inside, and then install both of the 15" passive radiators, as well as the 18" Skar subwoofer.

This will definitely be the cleanest, most solid enclosure I've ever built. And I'd bet my truck, my car, and all my camera gear that it's within 1/10th of a cubic foot of 5 cubes. Honestly I think it's much closer but anyway. I can tune it to whatever I want to depending on how much weight I add to my PR's. Kind of torn between Skars suggestion of 31 hz.... And WinIsd Pro looking best at like 28.5 hz....

Anyway, more pics tomorrow... View attachment 260933
Go with the WinISD recommendation. WinISD has never done me wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Okay I'm just about done...
Just need to finish it in bed liner spray, and mount and wire the 18" sub, + mount the passive radiators.

Just the fact that the PR's look exactly like 15" Dayton's, is going to make this box look kinda crazy ?

I can't wait to tell somebody I'm running two 15"s and an 18" in the same box ? lol

Oh, so I tried really hard to make all of the seams and screw holes completely disappear. Now that's it's primered, u can still just barely see where the screws and seams were, from just the right angle....
Hmmm. I'm hoping the bedliner spray will be thick and texured enough to "completely eliminate those imperfections...
Either way, it should be the cleanest box I ever built.....

260973

260974

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Oh btw, the box is sitting on it's backside in these pics. The 18" is going to fire straight up. The two PR's are firing forward, towards the back of my seat.
 

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Will you be able to feel it?


And I updated my signature block...
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Will you be able to feel it?


And I updated my signature block...
And why do you think that is ?
From all of my research, they produce very close to the same sound as a typical ported enclosure.... Which are my favorite by far. Sealed enclosures have never sounded loud enough to me.... And I have a hard time believing I have just not built one correctly ? What could be easier than a sealed box ?
 

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When I said you may not have done it right, I was thinking sub you chose, amp you chose, and how it may have been tuned. Not necessarily the enclosure but of course some find a way to even mess up sealed enclosures. Your enclosure definitely seems well built. Hope it sounds great with all of the output you want. It’s an 18 so it sure as hell should or you need to just turn in your SQL card and go talk to the SPL guys. Lol!
 

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This looks suspiciously similar to a terminal cup cutout. Am I missing something? For a build such as this, please tell me you're not using a terminal cup.

bix build.jpg
 

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A Neutrik SpeakOn connector would be nice...
 

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And why do you think that is ?
From all of my research, they produce very close to the same sound as a typical ported enclosure.... Which are my favorite by far. Sealed enclosures have never sounded loud enough to me.... And I have a hard time believing I have just not built one correctly ? What could be easier than a sealed box ?
With sealed boxes you can go too big and lose all your impact or go too small and lose the low end, I always err on the large side. You can always chuck some space eating object in a too large box.
 

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The quick connect/disconnect versatility of Neutrik's are great, but the male end protrudes too much for my liking. I believe it's in the range of 50 - 60 mm or so, and I can envision that connector being snapped off with a spirited push of your enclosure - especially those who need to remove it from the vehicle from time to time.

Does Neutrik make 90 degree male ends?
 

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The quick connect/disconnect versatility of Neutrik's are great, but the male end protrudes too much for my liking. I believe it's in the range of 50 - 60 mm or so, and I can envision that connector being snapped off with a spirited push of your enclosure - especially those who need to remove it from the vehicle from time to time.

Does Neutrik make 90 degree male ends?
Yeah the female chassis connector for the box sits out about 3-mm (1/8")
And they make connectors are available in 90 degree versions.

One disconnects it before removing the box.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
This looks suspiciously similar to a terminal cup cutout. Am I missing something? For a build such as this, please tell me you're not using a terminal cup.

View attachment 260978
Exactly. What would you use ? Just a wire through a drilled hole ?

And what would be the problem ? Have you ever heard of one of these blowing out from sound pressure ?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
With sealed boxes you can go too big and lose all your impact or go too small and lose the low end, I always err on the large side. You can always chuck some space eating object in a too large box.
With the few sealed boxes I've used, I researched what was best for those subwoofers. And I either built (a couple times) a box right to those specs, or bought (once a couple years ago, a prefab of the right cubes...
And they all sucked. Clean enough, sure, but not anywhere near loud enough.
 

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A subwoofer is a system of driver, enclosure, amplifier, install, and tune. What sort of drivers were you using? How large? How much excursion on the drivers? How much power were you giving them? Vehicle matters too as hatchbacks seem to have the better bass than cars with trunks and I’d assume trucks as well.

Not sure you need to answer those but Ive been able to get plenty of output out of a pair of 12s but I use high-excursion drivers and put some decent power on them. But my plenty may not be plenty to you. Note my home audio system consists of 18“ and 24” sealed subwoofers so I know what tons of deep bass is. :)
 

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Exactly. What would you use ? Just a wire through a drilled hole ?

And what would be the problem ? Have you ever heard of one of these blowing out from sound pressure ?
If we're being intellectually honest, then terminal cups will likely be adequate for the vast majority of applications, but there are better options available to you. When you have a fully braced enclosure, and you're using an 18" driver with 2 passives, it would be in your best interest to use binding posts for high power applications. With a terminal cup, there is ~3mm of plastic between internal airspace and external cabin. Will the 3mm fail? Probably not, but you have seen slow motion video of SPL builds on youtube where drivers are literally separating themselves from the cutout correct? Your build leans more SPL than SQ, and if I were you, I'd use a threaded silicone bronze bolt with washers and nuts on both ends. Lug the drive to the inside nut, and lug your power wire to the outside one. Why silicone bronze? Because silicone bronze is ~88% copper and ~12% tin. This makes it almost as conductive as straight copper, but has tensile strength close to steel which means you can torque on those nuts as much as you'd like (unlike straight copper).


I kind of doubt one could hear a difference in either SPL's, or in SQ, because of a difference in speaker wire connections.
The difference wouldn't be audible.
 

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I kind of doubt one could hear a difference in either SPL's, or in SQ, because of a difference in speaker wire connections.
What sound difference?

Just the banana plug jobs have nothing to keep the wires from pulling out... not like a bayonet mount that Is solid.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
What sound difference?

Just the banana plug jobs have nothing to keep the wires from pulling out... not like a bayonet mount that Is solid.
Hmmm. Okay. Never had my speaker wires just pull out. I guess if I ever did, this might seem more important.
 
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