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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a Hyundai Veloster with a crummy Infinity OEM system. I wanted to play around with some low budget upgrades, so I bought a $400 JBL 8ch DSP/amp. This is 1channel short of discretely powering everything I need. I want to make the factory speakers sound the best they can and upgrade in a year or two.

-Fronts are 2ohm 6.5s on the lower doors. 1" Tweeters in dash (dash isn't crazy long)
-center is a 2ohm 2inch
-rears are 3.5ohm full range, up high.
-I plan to use channels 7+8 to power the factory 6.5" sub.

Would it be better to
A) delete the center channel, run Rears and active fronts on DSP
B) run the fronts passive
C) run active fronts + center and keep the rears running on the factory amp (fading all the way to the front unless I have passengers)











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Without a sub I would keep the rears and ditch the center. That's just my opinion, I'm sure you'll hear some others as well. Factory speakers can definitely sound good, the signal is the issue most of the time in my experience. My girlfriend's 04 Pilot with the Alpine system completely woke up after just a simple HU swap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
There's a sub; it's a 6.5" DVC with a passive radiator. I'm prioritizing getting this on the DSP (mirroring channels 7+8 (60w) to each VC) to add better crossover points and level control.

If anything, the factory EQ tuning is way too bass heavy. Do you still vote for prioritizing the rears of the center?
 

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There's a sub; it's a 6.5" DVC with a passive radiator. I'm prioritizing getting this on the DSP (mirroring channels 7+8 (60w) to each VC) to add better crossover points and level control.

If anything, the factory EQ tuning is way too bass heavy. Do you still vote for prioritizing the rears of the center?
I'd keep the rears on the factory amp then. Like you said you'll only be using them for passengers, so no need to mess with them really.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Get rid of both the rears and center, unless your DSP will allow you to run differential rear fill, then you can play with that, but only after getting the fronts and sub dialed in well.
Active fronts + sub would use 6 of 8 DSP+amp channels. The DSP signal input is from the factory amp. I'm also keeping the factory speakers.
 

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Get rid of both the rears and center, unless your DSP will allow you to run differential rear fill, then you can play with that, but only after getting the fronts and sub dialed in well.
Centers for 2 seat tunes are very, very hard to get right. I and a good chunk of the people here don't mess with it.

gijoe is right here, get your front speakers tuned and playing well together and if that DSP will allow you to then go for rear fill.

The sound from the front will do plenty for the whole vehicle.


Also that signal from the amp, you need to do research on your vehicle and make sure it's an actual flat signal and not processed in any way. Manufacturers will put sloping on bass as volume goes up, all-pass filters, and a bunch of stuff that makes it hard to get a good tune.

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Without a sub I would keep the rears and ditch the center. That's just my opinion, I'm sure you'll hear some others as well. Factory speakers can definitely sound good, the signal is the issue most of the time in my experience. My girlfriend's 04 Pilot with the Alpine system completely woke up after just a simple HU swap.
I have an 04 pilot too. Looking into swapping out HU with a pioneer I have laying around. It's mosfet so I could bridge the rear channels to power the sub or get a separate amp and keep rear speakers. What would you recommend. Anybody know a decent cheap amp to power the 2ohm/50w sub.
 

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I have an 04 pilot too. Looking into swapping out HU with a pioneer I have laying around. It's mosfet so I could bridge the rear channels to power the sub or get a separate amp and keep rear speakers. What would you recommend. Anybody know a decent cheap amp to power the 2ohm/50w sub.
Definitely get a seperate amp, it will leave you open to upgrade that sub in the future, which you probably will want to do. Plus approx. 30 watts maximum from the HU will not be enough. If price is a concern the Taramps Bass 400 can be had for $69 on Car Audio Brazil, which can be turned down to accommodate the stock sub and turned up in the future for a better one. Just beware there are not too many accessible firewall holes on those cars so you may have to do some searching. There is one on the passenger side towards the bottom that I could barely fit a single run of 8ga through.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Also that signal from the amp, you need to do research on your vehicle and make sure it's an actual flat signal and not processed in any way. Manufacturers will put sloping on bass as volume goes up, all-pass filters, and a bunch of stuff that makes it hard to get a good tune.
I'll follow your advice and unplug the center then.

I made my own RTA plugged into the speaker out from the factory amp. Definitely a bit colored but at least they gave me full range to work with.

These are all with the HU EQ set to flat.




I was thinking this would be a fine starting point for a tune. I could boost the mids from the HU EQ, but would rather leave everything flat and keep the whole system very stealth in operation.

The dsp I ordered can do signal summing, but I'll likely forgo that and do front to front, rear to rears, and sub to sub. I could use the last input as the factory center, but I don't see the point.
 
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