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Discussion Starter #1
Currently planned setup:
-One Sundown SA-12 wired to 1-ohm @1200w RMS per the output specs of Orion D2400 monoblock amp.

-Pair of Kicker KSS65 2-ways, 125RMS each (4-ohm), and a pair undecided coaxes (whatever coaxes I can find that will fit with the amp)...both powered by a Precision Power P900.4 Class D amp (145W RMS × 4ch @4ohms)

Headunit I have now is a Kenwood DDX419 from 2012 specs are:
  • Power Output:
    • -Peak: 50 watts x 4 channels
    • -RMS: 22 watts x 4 channels
    • -3-Band equalizer with six presets
    • -4 Sets of 4V preamp outputs (front, rear and subwoofer)
Any thoughts on how well this headunit above matches with my planned setup? I am looking to make the setup SPL with deep clear lows.

Anything in particular this headunit is missing, and what should I be looking for in a new headunit if an upgrade is warranted?

Thanks in advance. This is my first build, being the noob I am. But I am trying to get it done fairly well the first time so it lasts a good while and sounds great.
 

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If your plans are to buy a new HU
Are you going to sell your old one? If so message me. I’m in the market for a HU and that one fits my needs
Thanks


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I have been using a kenwood ddx393bt for the last 4 years. I did an upgrade on the software a few years ago. I have been wrestling with my system and changed everything out several times trying to fix that something that wasn’t right. Finally, I just grabbed a lower end kenwood excelon unit and threw it in and I found my issue. It was my head unit all along.
Newer head units have built in Bluetooth, time alignment and much better eq sections than head units even 3 years ago. And they are a lot cheaper these days.
mid nothing more than having Bluetooth capability I would suggest an upgrade. I didn’t want to spend a bunch on this system as I am about to probably retire this vehicle from daily driver to jacked up toy that I use mainly in the winter. So I just bought a 159.00 kenwood excelon and it sounds WAY better than my 450.00 kenwood ddx. I’m not backing the more expensive units but just saying you can get an awesome headunit for less these days and the more expensive units only get better with more bells and whistles.
 

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I'm still rocking my Pioneer AVIC from 2010, going strong with no issues. Already came with bluetooth (phone & audio), navi, SD/USB, and video playback.
Granted the maps are outdated, the resolution isn't up to par anymore, and it takes some time to boot up, it still works great.

My advice: if it ain't broke, don't fix it.

But, sometimes you don't realize what you're missing either, and it might be justifiable. So if you have the features, but not sure about sound output, do some research, maybe get some demos (of course other equipment will play a factor here).
And if you're missing key features (i.e. BT), it may be worth swapping for that.
 

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I’m using a clarion from 2000. It’s a great SQ unit but lacks a ton of eq and can use the older 30pin iPods with it. I also have the nav Brain and it’s a lot of cash to update the maps


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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks yal for the replies. The H/u has some great features BT, double din, video playback, 3 rcas, sub inputs etc, I'm really concerned with EQ and sound quality processing and if an upgrade will really make a significant difference.

I'm hearing something about DPS and a separate EQ or sound processing units... anyone know anything about those things?
 

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You could fill a book about that those things
You really should read up on them and watch a ton Of YouTube videos before you by one
They are NOT a turn key upgrade. It’s a upgrade ,but with a lot of work
The easiest one is the Rockford fosgate model that can be used on a factory HU or a after market unit. You hook it up and play a cd and use the mic that comes with it and it sets up most of the eq and crossovers
It gets you up and running faster then most of the other units. But it does not have as much tweaking ability as the others do



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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
You could fill a book about that those things
You really should read up on them and watch a ton Of YouTube videos before you by one
They are NOT a turn key upgrade. It’s a upgrade ,but with a lot of work
The easiest one is the Rockford fosgate model that can be used on a factory HU or a after market unit. You hook it up and play a cd and use the mic that comes with it and it sets up most of the eq and crossovers
It gets you up and running faster then most of the other units. But it does not have as much tweaking ability as the others do



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Tell me about it, I've already spent dozens of hours researching car audio.... spent many hours just researching sound deadening...

I'm a budding enthusiast so the time to learn and a little extra money I enjoy spending.

Someone mentioned a Dayton 408 with a Dayton mic is that a good DPS?
 

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Yes I believe there is a difference between the two. Think of this way. How much stuff can you put into a box? The more you stuff into it, the quality of it goes down. Like when you use outboard amps from a head unit. It just works better. And as for a dsp unit compared to a head units ( sound shaping) chip in a HU does not have the quality of sound controls and a stand alone dsp unit


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I was going to suggest the Dayton dsp. I put one in my daughters car and it radically changed the sound with just crossovers set and TA done with tape measure. I used the AudioTools app Rta on my iPhone and made some quick adjustments and she loves it. Took less than 20 minutes.
But..... at some point I will break out rew and the mic and do the auto eq and see if it helps but she loves it as is and quite frankly I Th ink it sounds awesome as well.
the Dayton dsp is a great dsp and costs less than most head units. If you have Bluetooth and the other features adding a Dayton dsp is a great solution.
 

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I haven’t used that one yet and want to badly. Lol. When you start using a dsp it’s a rabbit hole. It never ends and is fun as heck to play with and also can make you mad as heck at times. Lol


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Agreed but the average person can get real close with the tools available. A great tuner can always get that last 5% but you can get pretty amazing sound with a small bit of effort. That being said even the best cars and best timers are making small tiny adjustments.
All dsp should have a phone app.
I didn’t want to give up my minidsp because of the auto adjust and import feature but then realized I could simplyinput the max number of available eq filters with the Dayton and run match. It will generate the adjustments and all you have to do is manually enter them in and bam/done.
A dsp is worth it if nothing more than an awesome crossover and time alignment processer with volume control on each speaker. Nothing needed except a tape measure and a decent pair of ears.
 

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I just found this forum and saw this thread, so instead of starting another thread, I'm posting in this one, since I have a similar predicament.

I have an old Nakamichi CD-700 from around 2001 I think it is. Bought it new back then and the radio is still doing just fine. Problem is, I never drove the car much in the winter and wondering if the lack of use caused the problem.

One cold winter night while I was driving, the CD mechanism gobbled up a CD and I was never able to get it to release it, so it won't eject the CD that's still in there. The unit just gives me an 'E - Mech' type of error on the front readout. I'm assuming that's an 'eject mechanism' error.

The thing was priced at about $1500 new, so I'm wondering now with all the built in phone and Bluetooth type units out there, if I should just bite the bullet and see if I can find a new head unit similar in quality to this one. I have found a guy that said he can possibly repair it if I take it out of the dash and bring the unit to him.
 
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