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Discussion Starter #1
This all started when my wife told me we needed to park my 2009 F-250 3” lifted 4x4 and use it just to pull the boat and horses. I live in Magnolia Texas and put a about a 100 miles a day driving to and from work, this includes driving off campus to Petrobras meetings 4 to 5 times a week. It’s also a ***** to park when there is only a parking garage. So I went out and got a 2012 Elantra limited, 41 mpg, much better than 13 mpg I had been driving. the car pays for itself. I haven’t been into car audio in over 10 years and I knew there was probably new products out there that where better than what I use to use. I remember church being good amps, now I’m told different.


I walk into a custom car stereo store on Westimer rd. in Houston, this place is just around the corner from my office. I told the guy that I would like to put something in that sounded good, hit hard and keep it under $1000. He tells me that he will hook me up. They take me back to my office. 8 hours later I pick my car up and it sounded like ****. I asked what kind of speakers he put in the doors. After I paid $750 he said Scorch (4) 1 Blackmore amp and a 12”powered kicker. He told me to let them brake in and they would sound better. Sorry dude, they have a long way to go before they sound even close to what I’m looking for. I looked them up and they were **** just like I thought. Next day I’m back in their shop. He gives me a credit and upgrades me to Kenwood Exelon 1600 amp and 4-5 1/2 Exelon component speakers with dynamat and cap. Another $1100 on top of the $750. I picked up a Rockford 300 punch amp and a Rockford P3 from Craigslist to try and fill in more bass. Still looking for a better sub, I want something that hits tighter and better SQ. I am thinking to myself that maybe I will have to dish out more money to get what I’m looking for in components too and the only place I could get some sort of credit on the equipment would be the custom car stereo store. I upgrade to (4) Boston Acoustics Pro se60. Still wasn’t right. I pulled the door panels off and find that they put 4 little pieces of a knock off dynamat around the speaker and charged me $280 for it. Two of the tweeters were not working and I know I’ve been ripped off big time. I took my car to a couple different car audio places for them to look at and all of them told me that the Kenwood amp was hooked up wrong and the wiring looked like a 3rd grader did it. I am $3 grand into this now and still have a system I’m not happy with. Next day I take it back to this rip off center and they rewire the entire system using comp grade wiring, replaced the tweeters and deaden the doors correctly. Now my system is a lot better but it’s still missing something. The components sound okay just a little plastic sounding and very bright with a far amount of distortion . If this is what higher end components are supposes to sound like then I’ll live with it. I feel I could do better with the sub I have now. I deaden the trunk myself using over 100 sq ft of dynamat and used insulation packed into all the channels (all day job but looks nice and only parts showing the mat was where the metal was before). They told me if I got a new head unit that it would help produce much better sound and cut out the distortion. They are probably right however, since they do not make a conversion kit for a 2012 elantra yet and no way would I let them touch my car again. I have heard about a processor that would clean up the signal; just don’t know if I should spend more money on that. Is it worth it or should I wait on the conversation kit to come out? I like the stock head unit, the Bluetooth and steering wheel controls.

You know, I started off just wanting something that was solid, now I’ve spent 3 times more than I had planned and looking to send more. I should have done my homework before walking into that store and I should have found a forum like this one first. This was a lesson learned and I have learned a lot. Car audio has now become my crack and I’m looking forward to the insight I get from the knowledge on this forum. Most of all I hope somebody reads this and it keeps them from making the same boneheaded moves I made.

• 1-1600 Exelon amp pushing 4-BA pro 60SE
• 1 300 Rockford Fosgate amp pushing 1 Rockford Fosgate P3 12” sub
• Quantum Audio cap
• Kicker wiring for everything
• Everything but the roof and floor Dynamated

What else can I do to fill out this sound system?
Will the processor pay off and give me a cleaner signal?
Once I narrow down a sub I like, I will make the custom box for it.
 

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Personally, I would have demanded a 100% refund and/or disputed the charges if you paid via CC. You paid for working equipment, a professional install, and for better sound...you got none of that.

Then, I'd just take my business elsewhere or DIY. Giving a salesman a budget and saying "whatever you think is best" is an easy way to buy the highest margin goods, needless accessories, and overpay for installation and that's exactly what happened.

If you're past the point that you can return everything and are asking how to make lemonade, then we're talking about tweaking those Boston components so they don't sound so harsh & in your face.

I don't know if your HU has a dedicated EQ but if you can mellow out the mid frequencies (500-3kHz), those Bostons will sound a lot better. There's 1 frequency that has a big peak and may be the culprit to why you don't sound the way you want. I forgot what freq it is but it's coming from the mid and not the tweeter.

Does your HU have a crossover built in? If so, use that instead of whatever is on the Kenwood & Fosgate amps. You'll have more control & you'll probably sound a helluva lot better. Low pass the subs around 60hz, to start off with anyway, and high pass the interior components 90hz, 120hz, whatever. See how you like that and take things from there.

Throwing a processor at the system when you're not sure it's set up correctly will just compound the issues you're having. Sucks, but it seems like you're going to have to go everything with a fine-toothed comb. Probably wouldn't hurt to make sure everything is in phase too.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for input your guys. I did take back my car and was able to get them to redo all of the wiring at no cost by their “competition specialist “I watched him and asked question through the entire process. They had the amp jumped somehow because my OEM head unit would allow them to hook up the amp properly. They threw in a Memphis processor at no cost as well that allowed the amp to be hooked up correctly. The processor made the system sound a great deal better. I picked up a type r 10” sub from alpine. It sounds better than the Rockford Fosgate to me.

Now the Boston Acoustic pro 60se still could sound better. I do not understand setting the mid frequencies (500-3k) these dials are the top of my amp. However there are many and none go to “500”. There is NO EQ on my head unit. Just a simple bass, treble and mid control. I have no choice but to make lemonade at this time. If I could get a better mid sound out the BA’s I would be happy.
 

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This all started when my wife told me we needed to park my 2009 F-250 3” lifted 4x4 and use it just to pull the boat and horses. I live in Magnolia Texas and put a about a 100 miles a day driving to and from work, this includes driving off campus to Petrobras meetings 4 to 5 times a week. It’s also a ***** to park when there is only a parking garage. So I went out and got a 2012 Elantra limited, 41 mpg, much better than 13 mpg I had been driving. the car pays for itself. I haven’t been into car audio in over 10 years and I knew there was probably new products out there that where better than what I use to use. I remember church being good amps, now I’m told different.


I walk into a custom car stereo store on Westimer rd. in Houston, this place is just around the corner from my office. I told the guy that I would like to put something in that sounded good, hit hard and keep it under $1000. He tells me that he will hook me up. They take me back to my office. 8 hours later I pick my car up and it sounded like ****. I asked what kind of speakers he put in the doors. After I paid $750 he said Scorch (4) 1 Blackmore amp and a 12”powered kicker. He told me to let them brake in and they would sound better. Sorry dude, they have a long way to go before they sound even close to what I’m looking for. I looked them up and they were **** just like I thought. Next day I’m back in their shop. He gives me a credit and upgrades me to Kenwood Exelon 1600 amp and 4-5 1/2 Exelon component speakers with dynamat and cap. Another $1100 on top of the $750. I picked up a Rockford 300 punch amp and a Rockford P3 from Craigslist to try and fill in more bass. Still looking for a better sub, I want something that hits tighter and better SQ. I am thinking to myself that maybe I will have to dish out more money to get what I’m looking for in components too and the only place I could get some sort of credit on the equipment would be the custom car stereo store. I upgrade to (4) Boston Acoustics Pro se60. Still wasn’t right. I pulled the door panels off and find that they put 4 little pieces of a knock off dynamat around the speaker and charged me $280 for it. Two of the tweeters were not working and I know I’ve been ripped off big time. I took my car to a couple different car audio places for them to look at and all of them told me that the Kenwood amp was hooked up wrong and the wiring looked like a 3rd grader did it. I am $3 grand into this now and still have a system I’m not happy with. Next day I take it back to this rip off center and they rewire the entire system using comp grade wiring, replaced the tweeters and deaden the doors correctly. Now my system is a lot better but it’s still missing something. The components sound okay just a little plastic sounding and very bright with a far amount of distortion . If this is what higher end components are supposes to sound like then I’ll live with it. I feel I could do better with the sub I have now. I deaden the trunk myself using over 100 sq ft of dynamat and used insulation packed into all the channels (all day job but looks nice and only parts showing the mat was where the metal was before). They told me if I got a new head unit that it would help produce much better sound and cut out the distortion. They are probably right however, since they do not make a conversion kit for a 2012 elantra yet and no way would I let them touch my car again. I have heard about a processor that would clean up the signal; just don’t know if I should spend more money on that. Is it worth it or should I wait on the conversation kit to come out? I like the stock head unit, the Bluetooth and steering wheel controls.

You know, I started off just wanting something that was solid, now I’ve spent 3 times more than I had planned and looking to send more. I should have done my homework before walking into that store and I should have found a forum like this one first. This was a lesson learned and I have learned a lot. Car audio has now become my crack and I’m looking forward to the insight I get from the knowledge on this forum. Most of all I hope somebody reads this and it keeps them from making the same boneheaded moves I made.

• 1-1600 Exelon amp pushing 4-BA pro 60SE
• 1 300 Rockford Fosgate amp pushing 1 Rockford Fosgate P3 12” sub
• Quantum Audio cap
• Kicker wiring for everything
• Everything but the roof and floor Dynamated

What else can I do to fill out this sound system?
Will the processor pay off and give me a cleaner signal?
Once I narrow down a sub I like, I will make the custom box for it.

I'm not reading that till you go back and hit enter 5-6 times...

Reading "the brick" sucks
 

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I agree with Aaron; please make that easier to read.

BTW, the difference between DIY and most 'professionals' is that YOU are looking to make your system good, whereas they are looking to get your car in and out and get paid.

That said, your equipment this time around looks pretty good. I don't really like Rockford subs but I don't think it should be so bad that you should hate it.

Make sure you've blocked off all of the big holes in the door with aluminum or fiberglass or something to isolate the speaker's front wave from the back wave. Some people use CLD (e.g. Dynamat) for this, which is certainly better than nothing.

Where is the tweeter located in the car, by the way?
 

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Wow I don't have 2k in equipment currently in my car and I would be willing to bet it sounds better than 95% of the vehicles on the road.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I had pods built for the doors and thrown a few different amps at it trying to find the right one. Right now I have an xd400 bridged on the fronts and its sound great, those BA’s are taking 246 watts each, and mid bass is NOT a problem. The processor helped with cleaning up the signal. However, I have learned that those BA’s need a very clean signal to sound good. CD’s are the only way to go. XM radio and FM, sound poor. I have been through a few subs too and I’m running a Diamond D6 10” in a sealed box. I like the challenge of doing the rear 6.5 speakers wired mono tang bangs on a delay. I have an old punch 100 that would be good for this task

please bare with me while i learn a few things.
 
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