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If you use a dsp, you can lower the level, and if you connected them correctly you can use your Hu fader.

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Sure, if you've wired your stereo in a way that renders the fader unless. Ohterwise use the fader feature that pretty much all stereos have.

I do think though, that if you have the rears loud enough to make any difference, then they will be having a negative impact on the stage. Whether or not that matters is up to the listener.
How would I use the fader if im using the headunit/processor in a 2/3 way mode. No front and rear anymore, only high and low, and sub low.
 

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Differential rear fill removes the common information that both speakers play, and leaves only the extreme left, and extreme right signal. It is then delayed, and bandpassed to remove low, and high frequencies. This essentially creates an “echo” behind you that simulates being in a big room and hearing the reflected sounds off of the wall behind you. It creates ambiance, and some people really like it, but it’s also artificial, since that “room” wasn’t mixed into the recording in the first place. I get why people like it, it sounds more like a live performance, but I don’t personally like it because the album isn’t supposed to sound like a live performance.
I have a few good live albums. Bob Seger - Nine Tonight comes to mind.
 

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I had previously read and understood differently but thanks for straightening me out.
Come on people. Y'all have a habit of way over thinking some things. Use the presets on the DSP. You can have coaxials or components in the rear, tuned for rear passengers, with the tweeters and mids facing opposite headrests in the back or however you deem appropriate. Just create a preset for driver only, maybe with rears completely off or turned down. Create a preset for driver and passenger front. Create a preset for rear passengers. It's not difficult. No need to trash everyone's reasoning for having rear speakers.
 

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The idea of never taking apart and treating the rear doors is pretty satisfying... But I worry that when my teenage daughter has to ride in the back that all she will hear is the thump thump of the bass. I guess at least now I have tweets on the a pillars where before my tweets were by the woofers in the doors. I might turn it on later today and sit in the back and see how rough it is.

Is the dayton 408 pretty clean and clear? Does anybody have experience using one and how it adds to the noise floor or affects SQ?

There are a lot of reviews of their remote knob that are quite poor, saying that the knob adds RF interference and audible noise to the 408...

Does anybody use the DSP just for their mids and highs and then use head unit time alignment and have the subwoofer channel skip the DSP?
I have the Dayton 408. No noise from the remote preset/level knob. The subs need to be time aligned accurately just like the mids and highs.
 

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I wouldnt run rears, and havent in years. Like mentioned above if you dont have a processor it really isnt done correctly. The best non processor version I have heard ran a band pass signal to a set of full ranges with delay on the channels. I thought I remember hearing that rears should get bandpassed so they are not playing anything above 4k or 5k, cant remember.
I know a really good tuner with a youtube channel and thousands of followers and 30 years shop experience who uses 10k and sometimes 12k for the upper end when bandpassing rears.
 

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Discussion Starter #50
I think you should start a new thread so that we can give this one back to Mr. Squirrel.
Thanks for the unjack :) Most of the rear discussion was on point but I was getting sort of buried in there.

I have the Dayton 408. No noise from the remote preset/level knob. The subs need to be time aligned accurately just like the mids and highs.
How about the clarity from the dayton? So many people complain about the noise added from the remote knob I wonder if you were more particular during the install about locating it away from other wiring? I do envy installing into a truck (just assuming you drive a truck!), I am pretty sure my next car won't have a rear deck!

I thought about the subs EQ after I posted that but when I was first thinking it out I was thinking use the head unit time alignment but it just doesn't make sense to not use the DSP for the bass and you want it to do all of the crossovers.

I feel like I am going to want 10 channels and I'd rather save up and get a DSP I can have for 10 years. So far my plan is to:

Get a quality 4 or 6 channel amp in 2-3 months
Get a 10 channel DSP in about 6-8 months (so far thinking probably helix based on 10 channels, digital input, and reviews based on clarity)
Later on replace the diamonds with better components that have a softer tweet (the diamond tweeter is pretty strong, but the DSP might help that)

I'm a little lost on the amp, I am thinking around 50-60 amp worth of fuse and it would be great to be able to run a 3-way front. I don't recognize a lot of the newer brands, back in the day I ran all PPI but my last build was budget so more common brands. Will I notice a difference in clarity from say the newer JL / Alpine / Pioneer amps versus something like an audison or mosconi? The multi-channel amps from Morel look fairly decent for the price and reviews are solid. I feel like putting more money into a DSP and getting a mid-high amp might be smarter in the end vs. putting more into an amp and getting a cheaper DSP. Any thoughts on how you would portion a budget for DSP vs amplifiers? Should I decide up front if I will stick with 2-ways or go with a 3-way?
 

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My personal opinion is that spending more money for a quality DSP and quality speakers is more important than spending more for the amp. Something like a JL Audio XD600/6v2 amp would be a good choice if you wanted a 6-channel amp (I just happen to use that same amp!). :) I use that for all of my regular speakers (6 of them). I just have a self-contained under-seat sub, so I don't need a separate amp channel for my sub.

But I feel that the quality of the DSP and speakers is more important than the quality of the amp nowadays. You'd be hard pressed to tell any sound quality difference between any decent modern amp - and JL is a very well-regarded amp mfg - always a solid choice. Audio Control is a another one - however, I noticed that you can't "defeat" all of the LP/HP filters on their LC-6.1200 6-channel amp, which is why I chose the JL Audio instead (it's 75Wx6 RMS - has a 50amp fuse).

The Helix DSP's are top-notch and their software is really powerful. I have a Helix DSP.3 and REALLY like it. They are expensive, but I feel that they are worth it because of how important they are in a modern system. The MiniDSP 8x12 Dirac Live is another good one from what I hear.
 
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