Lithium cells advice.

At these prices im going to have to buy as i go along.
I have 2x JP23v2 bass amps which each can put out 4k watts rms each.
My electrical system is holding its own at this point.
But,,,,i have a SALT4 amp heading this way. Now i dont expect to run all three at the same time now, But i may down the road.
IF and thats a big if i buy a superbeast ill get 2x 12v banks?
Im sure i can be shown where to cut. But dont these types of banks need electronic controllers to monitor each cell. Or is that built into the head of the cells like vaping batteries use?
Then a cap bank? Can you point me at the best price for the money but on the beginers side of a cap bank?

lastly, I guess i need an isolator, they have one on the site? How many amps i need?
Or an Amazon 300 watt isolator what i need?

My car runs about 14.3-13.9v with a 180A alternator and it does fine so i dont with to remove my XSPower and Ultima agm batteries. For one my car comes with its battery in the trunk under the cover with the spare tire. To do so would have to wait till spring when im set to finalize my system.

i think i can get the superbeast,but is a charger required? And then the isolator.
this is why i was looking at the lithium cell in the first post.

In regards to fusing, they are designed to blow when you've exceeded the rating by quite a bit. The more you exceed it the quicker it blows. So if you have a 100 amp fuse, you can run 120 amps for quite some time before it blows. It will blow pretty quickly at 200% of rating. Great for the fuse since it won't blow (and you won't be shopping for a new fuse that's hard to get like an ANL), not so great for an isolator you bought from adding up the fuse ratings. So you want to go bigger (or figure out the true draw, like you see on some of the videos on Youtube. Sonic is a good place to look, the 500 amp one isn't too much more so would suggest that route honestly.

LowBassSubs said:

Add up the all the fuses from your system. The isolator needs to be able to handle the system amp draw.

So for instance. A system with 3 amps. One amp has a fuse with 40 and two 100. You could do a isolator rated for 250-300 amps.

Sonic electronics is a good place to check them out and get the part numbers if you want to buy them elsewhere. Also check reviews.

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With "lithium" batteries lots of stuff out there, formulations (not the traditional lithium ion, but others that are safer from a catching fire perspective and/or from a getting damaged from an over/under charging situation). Do some research, lots of variables too (how you're going to charge it (some guys do a SPL comp so they are cool with a bank they don't charge off the alternator), temperature range (if your in Alaska or the upper midwest, some don't take kindly to the cold), budget, etc.

The superbeast module is a 24v 48ah 8s setup that you reorganize to 4s to double the ah capacity. I believe it's 96ah at 12v.

Jim's economy bars are about the cheapest option for bus bars, a cell balancer is simple and easy to hook up.

The headway 38120hp cells are usable at 5c so your ah rating ×5 to get the max usable draw. An 8 ah cell can discharge 40amps. 96ah is 480amp of usable discharge. They will still sag to a max 13.6v underload but they rarely drop below that unless the amperage damage exceeds 5c.

6s lto needs to be charged above 14.8v to be really usable but at 15v you are at 80% charge, 15.5v 90% charged 15.8v 95% charged iirc. But they will only sag to a max of 14.4v. lto also has higher c rates with c rates as high as 75c.

5s lto shouldn't be used unless your car does not charge above 14v which would be old style alts designed for old flooded cells.

Lto is the preferred chemistry in most cases as it's incredibly stable and easy to use but lifepo4 are also easy to use and stable they just have a shorter lifespan granted you likely won't reach end of life of the battery before the car falls apart. Unless you abuse the cells