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Join this group and actually learn what and where to get way better than overpriced xs power.



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I wouldn't call it little power. I'm running around 6k with a RSV-5 and a PWR-5 with hardly any voltage drop on a stock 130 amp alternator. The RSV-5 alone handled 4k on its own and didn't do bad on 6k. My voltage would drop to mid/low 13s at idle with just the RSV-5. I don't feel 700$ is expensive, look at how expensive everything else we run in our sound systems is. I will eventually upgrade the alt when the warranty expires but at this point its not even necessary.
it’s expensive for what it is. I spent maybe 300$ for 36ah of lithium lto
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it’s expensive for what it is. I spent maybe 300$ for 36ah of lithium lto
View attachment 342109
I thought about that when I was looking for lithiums but I just didn't want play tetris in my trunk with caps. I don't have the time or the patience to build my own. Then the fear of making mistakes, it just wast for me the titan8 made it convenient for me.
 

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I thought about that when I was looking for lithiums but I just didn't want play tetris in my trunk with caps. I don't have the time or the patience to build my own. Then the fear of making mistakes, it just wast for me the titan8 made it convenient for me.
Yeah I understand that. There’s always a price for convenience
 

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Nice man, thanks. Below is describing 1 time pulse, I think? In reality with music a system may draw (just making this up for a random 2000W system with music) 200A for 10 milli-second pulses, 1 time per second for 3 minutes. also you are charging the supercap between discharges, it's a pretty dynamic situation.



i think it is this and also the current draw over time as well.



for sure on this one, that's super nice.



and you are correct, i do not like this, lol. :geek: should able to test/calculate something here. i mean you are totally right. do you follow XS power recommendations typically?
No, I do not follow XSPower recommendations... they are a guideline that can be used as a reference for total overkill in my opinion. XSPower are very nice and cone in a pretty package but are overpriced for what you're actually getting. Like most things, you can pay for the pretty package and convenience of something like XSPower or do the math and make your own. The XP750 was something that I already had on hand that was part of a trade and it fit in my install so it was a no brainer for me...

If you make some basic assumptions about wiring resistance and calculate the overall ampacity of your amplifier power then it's simple math to calculate what you need and err on the high side for a safety margin.

Like the post above about the Impulse power versus crest factor of the music you listen to that safety margin may put you right in the ballpark of manufacturer recommendations so they are not to be ignored but used as a part of the toolbox in your design calculations. Also as mentioned earlier, they are other, more comprehensive and authoritative sources of you're going down the LTO path and people who have achieved tremendous success with combined topologies.

So I'm not suggesting that my method is in anyway the preferred method unless your preferences tilt to mine (simplicity, ease of removal and reverting to stock, availability, etc.)

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do you guys know if the Titan8's have BMS in them? does it have protection features or cut-offs?.... under voltage cut-off protection?
they do not mention anything in their owners manual from what i can tell. it looks like there is a press release from 2020 that mentions balancer and option Bluetooth monitoring tool?
@ItsonlyaHONDA do you have the Bluetooth feature?

Yeah I understand that. There’s always a price for convenience
 

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do you guys know if the Titan8's have BMS in them? does it have protection features or cut-offs?.... under voltage cut-off protection?
they do not mention anything in their owners manual from what i can tell. it looks like there is a press release from 2020 that mentions balancer and option Bluetooth monitoring tool?
@ItsonlyaHONDA do you have the Bluetooth feature?
No I don't I couldn't find the xs-power one but I found something different but similar. I wanted that piece. I don't think they have a under voltage cut off. But I watch my voltage like a hawk. Stinger Volt meter up front and the Bluetooth one at the rear batteries.

Battery Monitor ANCEL BM300 Bluetooth Voltmeter, Automotive Battery Voltage Charging Cranking System Test with Alarm for All 12 Volts Solar Power Systems/RVs/Motorcycles/Boats/Cars/Trucks Amazon.com: Battery Monitor ANCEL BM300 Bluetooth Voltmeter, Automotive Battery Voltage Charging Cranking System Test with Alarm for All 12 Volts Solar Power Systems/RVs/Motorcycles/Boats/Cars/Trucks : Automotive

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The Titan8's are composed of a 5s configuration of prismatic LTO's (knockoff, rebranded, or B grade Toshiba SCiB cells). XS claims they get theirs directly from Toshiba, but there's been some controversy over the validity of that. However, I did see a document posted from an alleged Toshiba employee saying XS does have a license to purchase their cells. Overall, they work. Although, a 5s configuration isn't ideal and can easily be overcharged.

That being said, you can make your own 6s SCiB bank for around a third of the cost. The good thing about SCiB's is that they're LTO so they are good for very cold temperatures (genuine Toshiba SCiB is claimed to be good down to -30c). Moreover, they're super safe when compared to other types of lithium.

I recently purchased 120 SCiB cells (60 of the 10Ah and 60 of the 20Ah) direct from China and am stuck waiting to have time to set up my CNC and mill bussing for them.
 

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The Titan8's are composed of a 5s configuration of prismatic LTO's (knockoff, rebranded, or B grade Toshiba SCiB cells). XS claims they get theirs directly from Toshiba, but there's been some controversy over the validity of that. However, I did see a document posted from an alleged Toshiba employee saying XS does have a license to purchase their cells. Overall, they work. Although, a 5s configuration isn't ideal and can easily be overcharged.

That being said, you can make your own 6s SCiB bank for around a third of the cost. The good thing about SCiB's is that they're LTO so they are good for very cold temperatures (genuine Toshiba SCiB is claimed to be good down to -30c). Moreover, they're super safe when compared to other types of lithium.

I recently purchased 120 SCiB cells (60 of the 10Ah and 60 of the 20Ah) direct from China and am stuck waiting to have time to set up my CNC and mill bussing for them.
Would be nice to include a link to your sources to back up your claims. I would like to know what's inside of the Titan 8s, but I'm not taking mine apart to find out. Not saying I don't belive you cuz companies are shady, but I like to see proof instead of believing what some one claims online.
 

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I can assure you that the information I posted is accurate in terms of second-hand knowledge. I do not have first-hand knowledge of ripping apart a Titan8. However, there are videos/photos out there showing the insides that validate what I said. I will PM you with those specifics because I do not believe this is the proper forum to start re-hashing the drama that was involved.

That said, I would like to point out that you may have misunderstood my intent or I was too ambiguous with my wording. I do not believe the Titan8 is a bad battery. In fact, I think it's quite good and have installed several for clients, and they have worked wonderfully. However, for those who are "handy" enough, it is possible to build better battery for less money.
 

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I can assure you that the information I posted is accurate in terms of second-hand knowledge. I do not have first-hand knowledge of ripping apart a Titan8. However, there are videos/photos out there showing the insides that validate what I said. I will PM you with those specifics because I do not believe this is the proper forum to start re-hashing the drama that was involved.

That said, I would like to point out that you may have misunderstood my intent or I was too ambiguous with my wording. I do not believe the Titan8 is a bad battery. In fact, I think it's quite good and have installed several for clients, and they have worked wonderfully. However, for those who are "handy" enough, it is possible to build better battery for less money.
I do believe that it has 5 cells, thats probly why the resting voltage is simalar to my AGM. And there's a bunch of warnings about over charging but my car has a BCM? That limits my charging voltage that I can not or not willing to bypass. It also enabled me to run lithium without a isolator. They are way more pricey than the DIY cells and if some one is handy enough to build one withough harming them selves or their car its well worth it. I didn't take what you said the wrong way I just personally wanted more info on what I'm running. I mentioned the Titan 8 because I remembered that they were able to run in lower temperatures which I considered because we always go up to big bear when it snows. No negativity was taken. 👍
 

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While I wait for my big ass alternator to arrive I'm wondering what will be the best way to add a 2nd battery or power source in the back. I'm going to upgrade my sub amp to a 3k amplifier, and plan on eventually upgrading my front end amps to run more power (125x8). This is about 4k but I know I won't be pulling that all the time. I recently put in a D3400 which has been pretty awesome.

I could:

1. Have a supercap bank setup in the back (I'm thinking 500 farad will probably be good enough for the wattage, but if I end up going bigger it makes more sense to get the bigger ones now because a 1000 farad will take up less space than two 500's)

2. Add a lithium in the back. I worry about how it will be affected by cold temps (living in Maine), and it is one of the reasons I avoided lithium when I got the new battery. I'm not sure how I should isolate the two batteries, and how to worry about charging. The lithium also would take up more space than a 500 farad bank, but about the same as a 1000 farad.

Questions lingering:

1. When I install the supercap, from what I've seen they install in parallel with your battery. You charge them to the system voltage using the halogen lamp and then wire them in parallel. Ring terminals from the supercap to your power and ground distribution.

2. Will any of the lithium chargers also charge AGM's or do you need 2 chargers if you have both types?

If you have any good info sources on this stuff let me know, I planned on giving XSpower a ring today to ask them some questions while I continue working on my box build :)
I'm not 100% sure with lithium, but generally when installing a second battery, the cheap route is installing a heavy duty solenoid between the two batteries that will open when the ignition is turned off then connect them when the engine is running.

The much better route is using a DC-DC converter between the two batteries. It functions basically like a separate charger for the rear battery when the vehicle is running.
 
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