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If you read my posts I answered that already. Probably more than once. Are you trying to see how many times I’ll answer the same question? Lol

I’ll say it again. Front is two channels, right? Rear is two channels, right? And sub is two channels, right? (Actually it mono but I’m saying that for simplicity). So if my math is correct, that would be 6 channels, no?
I can break that down even further if you like.
Running on punch 4x100 amp
front right- channel 1 silverflute 6.5
Front left- channel 2 silverflute 6.5
Rear right- channel 3 silverflute 6.5
Rear left - channel 4 silverflute 6.5
Running on punch 750
Sub right - channel 5 (8” sub)
Sub left - channel 6 (8” sub)

then FOR NOW I’ll leave it a train wreck and keep the aura sound whispers and Dayton tweets on the passive crossovers ON HEADUNIT POWER NOT ON THE DSP. When the non unlimited budget allows, I’ll get a small low power amp for the dash speakers SO THEN I can untrainwreck it and put them on the dsp.
This isn’t a competition car. I’m not trying to impress anyone. I just want decent sound and I’m not interested in spending a bunch of money doing it. The car is more of a race car than a car stereo project. It’s not a daily driver. It’s a weekend car. I’m not wrapped up in this hobby enough to spend 5-6-7 thousand dollars on a stereo. Some of you have more money in your dsp than I have in my whole system. I’ve said it in another thread, before I’d drop a bunch of cash on stereo items, I’d rather put that money towards a bigger turbo, new drag tires, drivetrain parts etc. that’s where my priorities lie in this car.
I've obviously been active in your other thread.

What MiniSQ is trying to convey to you is, you don't buy a DSP to put one half of the system on the DSP, and not have the other half of the system on the same DSP as well. It's All or Nothing. Otherwise it is as he said...A TRAIN WRECK. Trying to achieve your "supposed" simplistic goals [email protected] just bit by bit over time will cost you more time, money, and frustration. Save yourself.

The little LF DSP that you purchased worked well on your Subwoofers and in your specific system to solve a specific, targeted problem, and the latency/delay induced by the subwoofer-only DSP unit is usually not as critical as it would be for your entire system, including the main speakers...i.e. anything ~100Hz and up.

# 1. A DSP adds latency to all of the output channels connected to it. Meaning all of the audio signals that pass through the DSP are delayed in time in a certain amount of ms compared to any signals that are going direct from the head unit to your Whispers & AMTs, etc.

Does your Pioneer DD Head Unit have Time Alignment (digital delay)? If so, you would have to figure out the exact latency of the new DSP in milliseconds and apply that same amount to all of your head unit powered speakers, then add more T/A on top of that on each driver or channel to achieve the proper time arrival of each dash driver/driver pair to your listening position in order to obtain proper timing and a solid center image. You'll then have to also properly Time Align all of the other speakers that are routed through the DSP unit accordingly. No simple task, and bound to be wrought with errors.

# 2. One of the most important features of a standalone DSP or DSP/amplifier unit is Independent Left & Right EQ for EACH Channel and speaker, as well as fine control of the amplitude level for each Channel/Speaker as well. Independent level control of each midrange, each tweeter is extremely important, and not having this independent Level, EQ & T/A adjustment of EVERY individual driver (inluding the midbass & subwoofers) is a severe limitation.

Your head unit does not allow for independent left and right EQ, nor fine adjustment of independent levels of each L&R channel, so the most important midrange drivers (along with tweeters) are a huge compromise.

And this doesn't even begin to touch on the importance of proper Crossover implementation between all of the drivers (speakers).

Therefore, miniSQ is correct in that setting up your system as you are proposing to would result in a complete TRAIN WRECK. And IMPO is not worth the effort for the struggle you would endure in trying to achieve the desired outcome...which is extremely unlikely. We have a saying here that is hard to learn or convey to most noobs... "BUY ONCE, CRY ONCE".

There are certain positive things that you can accomplish on a budget in car audio, and there are certain things that you cannot. Unfortunately, this is only realized after the fact through much trial & error and many wasted purchases.

There is a specific reason that I suggested the JBL DSP-4086 DSP/amplifier as the least expensive option to get you close to your goals. It would have enough processed & amplified output channels to get you near what you want. But you have to retain the passive X/Os on the Whisper/AMT pairs. And for this to work well, you'd need to keep the Whispers & AMTs in very close proximity to each other...ideally placed in a vertical orientation and touching frame to frame. You'd also want to have a L-Pad on each AMT to control their levels independently of the Whispers.

The Alpine PXE-0850S that I also mentioned in your other thread is closer to what you really need, but is way over your budget, AND it has a REMOTE KNOB/DISPLAY that would need to be mounted where it is accessible.
It has 6 inputs and 12 DSP Processed Output Channels, with 8 of those being amplified output channels.

IMPORTANT NOTE: Just about any DSP worth buying and using will have and require a Remote, either in the form of a knob, a knob + a few pushbuttons, or knob + Touchscreen display.


A used JL Audio TwK88 would be the next least expensive DSP to give you the 6 input channels and up to 8 processed output channels, but with no amplification. It also uses a dual concentric knob remote (DRC-200). It actually has 8 input channels + digital inputs.

The Dayton Audio DSP-408 is limited to 4 input channels (& 8 output channels), so it wouldn't allow you to retain the Subwoofer Level Control from your head unit. Again, you could buy a separate in-line RCA Remote knob for this, but you do not want to have one (supposedly no to place mount it). This DSP also does not have 4v+ RCA preamp outputs. I'm not a fan of it overall, but if that is the budget, it is about the only option...and again, limited to 4-in/8-out.

Good luck.

P.S. When you start a new thread, especially in regards to a DSP for your system, you need to do a better job in the first post of listing what equipment you already have, how it is connected, what you want to keep, and the goals or priorities for the system, along with all of your limitations.

For example, no one new to viewing this thread knew what source you are using, i.e. an OEM head unit, or aftermarket head unit...and if aftermarket, how many output channels and what built-in features it has (DSP, EQ, X/O, T/A, etc.), 2V RCA outputs or 4V-5V RCA outputs, etc?

Knowing what you have as a source is important considering if any OEM integration features will be needed (speaker-level inputs, OEM volume-dependent EQ that would need to be corrected, built-in T/A or All-Pass filters, etc.), and would help us to recommend what DSP would best compliment the source unit you have.
 
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