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You mentioned in the other thread that you're thinking of taking the IB subs out and building a molded fiberglass box in the side of the trunk for a l5 kicker square 8” you have already. Perhaps your HU would then be sufficient to tame the overall system response well enough to call it good for the time being, or maybe even for good, so you can move on with your life and focus more of your time and resources on engine performance upgrades and such.

As I posted in the other thread,
In the wise words of fellow member, @dgage - "EVERY system has a bottleneck, it is just a matter of whether the bottleneck causes enough of a limit to be worth the expense to alleviate it (and move to another bottleneck)."
 

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I’ll admit I haven’t read all posts. But response to original post:

Dayton dsp is good budget item, BUT only has 4 inputs, not 6. Why do you need 6? I use my front inputs to feed all of my mids/highs channels on dsp, and then use HU sub out to get to my sub. This way I can easily toggle sub on/off from HU.
If you don’t need to toggle sub but prefer front/rear fading capability, then use front/rear inputs for dsp.
Unless you really need 6 channels in, which would also force you at a higher price bracket, I’d suggest one of these compromises. I love my Dayton, though I’m sure better exists, for the money Dayton value is hard to beat. No issues with mine (some complain about noise, usually easy to resolve).

Someone mentioned being passive means dsp not required. I disagree. Even with a passive setup, the ability to TA, fine tune XO, and use parametric EQ per channel will still yield HUGE benefits over not having a dsp. But yes, for FULL benefit, an active setup is preferred.

Whatever dsp you get, highly suggest you budget for an RTA mic, often available $80-100. Minidsp umik-1 is popular.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
I’ll admit I haven’t read all posts. But response to original post:

Dayton dsp is good budget item, BUT only has 4 inputs, not 6. Why do you need 6? I use my front inputs to feed all of my mids/highs channels on dsp, and then use HU sub out to get to my sub. This way I can easily toggle sub on/off from HU.
If you don’t need to toggle sub but prefer front/rear fading capability, then use front/rear inputs for dsp.
Unless you really need 6 channels in, which would also force you at a higher price bracket, I’d suggest one of these compromises. I love my Dayton, though I’m sure better exists, for the money Dayton value is hard to beat. No issues with mine (some complain about noise, usually easy to resolve).

Someone mentioned being passive means dsp not required. I disagree. Even with a passive setup, the ability to TA, fine tune XO, and use parametric EQ per channel will still yield HUGE benefits over not having a dsp. But yes, for FULL benefit, an active setup is preferred.

Whatever dsp you get, highly suggest you budget for an RTA mic, often available $80-100. Minidsp umik-1 is popular.
See I'm not using the time alignment in my head unit and my sound stage is satisfactory for what I want. Theres still adjustments the radio has that helps that. It sounds like the sound is on top of my dash and its difficult to pinpoint where the bass is coming from. I adjusted the midbass levels to compliment the dash speakers just right.....however, the silverflutes need some crossing over because they dont sound good letting them sing at full range. The reason i wanted at least 6 inputs was to control front, rear and sub still through the headunit. My headunit does offer alot of adjustments that would compliment the dsp. I need the dsp on the subs to kill the "cabin gain" as some say that happens in my setup at 40hz.
 

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The reason i wanted at least 6 inputs was to control front, rear and sub still through the headunit.
If you’re dead set on having fader AND sub control from HU, then ya you’ll need 6-ch in, maybe the minidsp (608 I think) can work? Still pretty good value and price, even if it’s twice the price of Dayton.

I was in a similar boat re: wanting that control, but ultimately was happy to sacrifice the fader to save over 50% on the dsp. But everyone’s requirements are different.

But to be clear, you can still have all channels pass through the DSP even if you only have 2 inputs.
So it’s not like you lose the ability to dsp your subs or rear by going to 4-ch input, you just lose your ability to fade or toggle sub on/off from HU (you can still do that through your dsp though).


Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 · (Edited)
If you’re dead set on having fader AND sub control from HU, then ya you’ll need 6-ch in, maybe the minidsp (608 I think) can work? Still pretty good value and price, even if it’s twice the price of Dayton.

I was in a similar boat re: wanting that control, but ultimately was happy to sacrifice the fader to save over 50% on the dsp. But everyone’s requirements are different.

But to be clear, you can still have all channels pass through the DSP even if you only have 2 inputs.
So it’s not like you lose the ability to dsp your subs or rear by going to 4-ch input, you just lose your ability to fade or toggle sub on/off from HU (you can still do that through your dsp though).


Good luck!
I just prefer all my controls be on the radio, that way i can turn it (the sub) off and on quickly, adjust the level quickly and change the crossover points...is just something I'm not willing to give up.
 

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The Dayton has 3x2chan inputs, you can control the sub level from the Hu if you wish. If you want to lean about DSPs it a great option. I recently upgraded to a Helix and I honestly miss the interface
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
what about the audiocontrol dqdx or the audiocontrol DM-608? The dqdx is pretty cheap, has 6 inputs and does not require a laptop to make changes...I kinda like the simplicity of it.
 

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I thought man who go though turnstile sideways going to Bangkok
Yep, there are any sayings from the fellow.
I usually reserve your one for when we fly to Europe... Which seems to have been a long ago at this point.
 

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@KFXGUY ... maybe this diagram would help convey your current setup? Is this accurate??

Rectangle Font Parallel Screenshot Circle
 
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Gotcha .... so like this?

If this is accurate, save the picture to your computer/phone, so you can use it in your posts to show folks what you have (y)

It'll make these conversations much more efficient when folks can quickly get an idea of your setup.

Font Parallel Rectangle Audio equipment Screenshot
 
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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
Gotcha .... so like this?

If this is accurate, save the picture to your computer/phone, so you can use it in your posts to show folks what you have (y)

It'll make these conversations much more efficient when folks can quickly get an idea of your setup.

View attachment 311477
You are the man, thx. If you dont mind me asking, what did you use to illustrate that? eventually i'll be adding/changing things...
 

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I used PowerPoint. I have a bunch of diagrams I created for my own setup, so just took a few mins to do one for yours.

I just Google search for the component, and copy an image, then paste it into power point for the graphics.

Product Rectangle Font Screenshot Parallel
 

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@KFXGUY I just had a read through the DSP-LP manual ... that's a cool, little piece of kit. If you end up getting a multichannel DSP, and want to sell the DSP-LP ... let me know
 
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