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38 Posts
Hello
Yes, it's another mobile audio noob thread 
I’m looking for a bit of direction. I want to upgrade my system but can’t decide whether to go for Peerless 830883 + Seas Neo (or something else) or probably Diamond 661s. I listen to many different types of music in the car from classical, some jazz, vocal trance, progressive and some rock / pop. The goals are good overall integration, SQ in terms of detail, transparency and decent imaging if possible rather than visceral impact. I can’t stand bright tweeters BTW. The car is a Mitsubishi GTO and there isn’t a whole lot of scope for different driver placement options. The standard drivers are tweeters in the dash (62mm cutout / space for replacements) firing upwards, 6 1/2" in the doors and 6x9" at the back. I can move the tweeters to the doors (not pillars) and will delete the rear speakers but want to keep the car interior looking standard or as near to as possible which I realise may well compromise the goal of decent imaging.
Currently I use an Alpine CDA 9847 head unit, Alpine 12 disk changer which I don’t really want to swap out at the moment, non specific aftermarket drivers run from the head unit and an MB Quart RWE254 in a small sealed box I made that runs from a Kenwood KAC821.
I have a Philips DAP600, DAP300, Kenwood KAC821 I can use for amps and Pioneer active sub XO if required. I can buy a more suitable amp / amps if required at some point.
So… will the Peerless / Seas combo work better for me than the Diamonds or should I look at another alternative? The Peerless start rolling off a bit earlier than I’d like TBH but unless I put something in place of the 6x9’s to try to fill in 70Hz to 120Hz (and all the issues that go with that type of driver placement) I’m not sure how to deal with that as I simply can’t fit an additional driver in the front. If I go for the Peerless / Seas combo can I get away with building passive crossovers and bridging the Philips DAP600 to give me 2 x 75W RMS (IIRC) into 8 ohms? If I go active would I have to look at replacing the DAP600 or use the DAP300 for the tweeters as I’ll get about 35W into 8 ohms as I’ll be using 4 separate channels of the DAP600 rather than being able to use 2 bridged channels? If I do go active it would be great to have delay control but I guess that means spending big bucks. I use a DCX2496 at home and I know 12V conversion kits are available but I think that’s a bit OTT for me in the car at the moment. I don’t want to run a car PC with KX drivers or similar as an XO as that’s just a step too far in terms of complexity.
Sub wise I’ll be looking to replace the RWE254 with something running in a fairly small sealed box. I have 2 x Peerless 830845 and 2 x Peerless SLS12s spare right now, it would be nice to use an 830845 but that’s an 8 ohm driver so I’ll need a fairly hefty amp (I can run 300W at 8 ohms into the 830845 without getting near the cone excursion limits in a 30l box) and don’t have space to run both drivers wired at 4 ohms. The 830845 sims well in WinISD when cabin gain is added. I’d be happy to hear any better suggestions for a SQ sub that will work well in a small sealed box.
Budget isn't unlimited but I'm happy to do staged upgrades if each stage sounds OK rather than doing everything at once.
Sorry if that post rambles slightly
I’m looking for a bit of direction. I want to upgrade my system but can’t decide whether to go for Peerless 830883 + Seas Neo (or something else) or probably Diamond 661s. I listen to many different types of music in the car from classical, some jazz, vocal trance, progressive and some rock / pop. The goals are good overall integration, SQ in terms of detail, transparency and decent imaging if possible rather than visceral impact. I can’t stand bright tweeters BTW. The car is a Mitsubishi GTO and there isn’t a whole lot of scope for different driver placement options. The standard drivers are tweeters in the dash (62mm cutout / space for replacements) firing upwards, 6 1/2" in the doors and 6x9" at the back. I can move the tweeters to the doors (not pillars) and will delete the rear speakers but want to keep the car interior looking standard or as near to as possible which I realise may well compromise the goal of decent imaging.
Currently I use an Alpine CDA 9847 head unit, Alpine 12 disk changer which I don’t really want to swap out at the moment, non specific aftermarket drivers run from the head unit and an MB Quart RWE254 in a small sealed box I made that runs from a Kenwood KAC821.
I have a Philips DAP600, DAP300, Kenwood KAC821 I can use for amps and Pioneer active sub XO if required. I can buy a more suitable amp / amps if required at some point.
So… will the Peerless / Seas combo work better for me than the Diamonds or should I look at another alternative? The Peerless start rolling off a bit earlier than I’d like TBH but unless I put something in place of the 6x9’s to try to fill in 70Hz to 120Hz (and all the issues that go with that type of driver placement) I’m not sure how to deal with that as I simply can’t fit an additional driver in the front. If I go for the Peerless / Seas combo can I get away with building passive crossovers and bridging the Philips DAP600 to give me 2 x 75W RMS (IIRC) into 8 ohms? If I go active would I have to look at replacing the DAP600 or use the DAP300 for the tweeters as I’ll get about 35W into 8 ohms as I’ll be using 4 separate channels of the DAP600 rather than being able to use 2 bridged channels? If I do go active it would be great to have delay control but I guess that means spending big bucks. I use a DCX2496 at home and I know 12V conversion kits are available but I think that’s a bit OTT for me in the car at the moment. I don’t want to run a car PC with KX drivers or similar as an XO as that’s just a step too far in terms of complexity.
Sub wise I’ll be looking to replace the RWE254 with something running in a fairly small sealed box. I have 2 x Peerless 830845 and 2 x Peerless SLS12s spare right now, it would be nice to use an 830845 but that’s an 8 ohm driver so I’ll need a fairly hefty amp (I can run 300W at 8 ohms into the 830845 without getting near the cone excursion limits in a 30l box) and don’t have space to run both drivers wired at 4 ohms. The 830845 sims well in WinISD when cabin gain is added. I’d be happy to hear any better suggestions for a SQ sub that will work well in a small sealed box.
Budget isn't unlimited but I'm happy to do staged upgrades if each stage sounds OK rather than doing everything at once.
Sorry if that post rambles slightly