DiyMobileAudio.com Car Stereo Forum banner

1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
As ive gotten older ive went from maximum "boom" to looking for real powerful but beautiful and detailed sound.

Ive been looking at silver flutes, dayton audio etc but i AM new to this in a way so im looking to this forum for suggestions. I know next to nothing about passive crossovers or dsps it seems, but want to learn. Especially want to learn about matching drivers up by spec and have fun doing it.

I want to match up a 3 way setup , best bang for the buck to start since i am new but would like the loudest most powerful and up to date (as you can tell im behind by mentioning silver flutes this is about the time i got out of audio) , most detailed front stage for the money. If i had to put a budget on it i would say $250 or less. Im really trying to put together something for smashing car audio specific component sets because it seems most of the drivers and tweeters sold for car audio apps are just rebranded home audio......plus lets face it, the car audio specific drivers never give the T/S parameters for the drivers they just say their IB and let everyone go around guessing. I wonder why? lol.

EDIT: if the drivers need more sealed or vented air space than is available in the location i am not at all worried about having to say, pull the fenders on the car to build a "cabinet" ...i enjoy taking things to the next level. no problem!

at this point i just bought my project car which is a 2003 lincoln ls and i plan to do something like a tweeter and a 3" ish on the dash staged as needed and a 6-8" midbass woofer in the kicks (dont like door installs but can do it if need be)

The only piece of equipment i have so far is the head unit which im not so sure about but it came in the car when i bought it from the previous owner. its a jvc/kenwood v340bt which DOES have dsp settings such as time alignment and all that fancy stuff but honestly im not so sure it would work as well as and independant dsp - however remember this is on a budget so i will likely hang on to it and try not to buy an actual dsp!

so im looking for clean (probably a/b power) amps as well but remember ON A BUDGET.

suggestions?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,301 Posts
For a budget 3-way in that range, certain Dayton RS drivers would be my first choice. The aluminum RS180-4 or RS225-4 have the better parameters for door mounting. If you're going to build small enclosures or vented kicks, that may change things, but I do know of one person that went from JL ZR800 in the kicks that said they were choked, switched to RS225-4 that wound up outperforming the ZR800 so maybe a small sealed or vented kick will be fine.


It may be time to look into your constraints with a definite answer on what you can fit, else suggestions can be all over the place including mine.

Man & Machine... Power Extreme!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the response Bayboy, im not completely certain i know what you mean by fitment constraints.

I dont intend to do the usual door install period, ill make room to put up to an 8" mid range/mid bass in the kicks however i will point out that i dont particularly like that setup becuase of all the things in the way (your legs mainly) but im sure with the proper tuning it can work much better than a door setup.I do enjoy building custom enclosures for subwoofers so a crazy fiberglass enclosure up through the fender or whatever is easily obtained, i just dont know what drivers to match up.

lets say 3-4" drivers and tweeters in the a pillars.

i want that stereo quality setup that makes your head spin and you feel the midbass in your chest. And the way i feel about it is it is mostly enclosure and tuning and not so much how much something costs, up to a point of course.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,301 Posts
What I meant by constraints is the actual limitations of what you can fit or are willing to make fit, but you've already addressed that. That being said, I still think the Daytons are a good start. The 3" in the Reference lineup isn't really a 3" though so I'd caution against that. Use the 4" or another 3" of your choice. Lots of viable ones to be used.

Man & Machine... Power Extreme!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
very nice, but the thing is im not far enough advanced in this to pair up the reference series drivers in frequency range, and i dont want to miss anything so i assume i must overlap the ranges .

Is the reference series just a set or are there different parameters for different drivers (inside the reference series) that can make or break the setup?

i realize i need to do my own research but a headstart on this would help tremendously.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter #6

looking at this amp to power it all through a passive crossover, or adding on to this the "lisa" model to power everything seperate up front.

and of course the mike for the sub.....which i have not chosen yet but do have about 8subs in mind.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
39 Posts
A couple of budget 5 channels I would throw out there to think about as well.



Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
182 Posts
Well you have a fine platform with already a good amount of sound deadening. So that helps.

I just want to confirm, this is the style of car you have correct?
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/508428/2003-lincoln-ls/

1. Do you have the THX system in it?
2. Does it still have the factory amps?
3. Are the Factory amps being used?
4. Have any of the speakers been replaced?
5. If they have? What drivers are in there?
6. What do you like or don't like about the speakers you have?


You said you don't mind building customs things. Are you okay with FIberglass and making Tweeter pods? Or do you want to go more with a factory look?

This person said his goals were to keep it as factory as possible, but went with a "Free Air" design for the subwoofers. Its actually a very good budget install where he did the sound deadening and door treatment to get the most out of his upgraded parts. Used Dollar tree Cutting boards for speaker mounts for is 6 1/2 speakers he installed. There is plenty of room for a large 8" shallow if you know how to work with Wood. I like how he did the front doors and sealed them very well.


Another person took another route, but I think you are going to see a Pattern here. Most are 2 way installs. The dash does not seem to have that much space for a midrange driver.

He mounted his tweeters on the sails. He went with a Focal set. Thing is, I have been looking for anyone who did a 3 way install on the front stage of the LS. I have not found any yet.



Crutchfield has a guide on where the stock tweeter is, I guess some cars did not have the sail tweeters. You could use this area for a Midrange? Maybe a 2" Fountek driver would work in here? But... I have yet to seen anyone do custom Pods in the pillars so far.


This thread goes over how other people paceed their tweeters. Some have said that the factory tweeter location is horrible for the soundstage. So they installed them in the doors.



Another person did this.




So I really looked around, and I don't see anyone who has done a 3 way setup yet. So you might be the first one.

If you are on a budget, I would recommend staying with a 2 way system simply due to the fact that sound deadening the doors is going to take up at least a $80 bucks of your $250 budget. And that's really going to give you the most bang for your buck so the mid bass drivers perform their best.


I mean if we are going to be reasonable, the sound deadening is going to be where you are going to get the most bang for the buck with any set of speakers you throw in that don't use the small sealed enclosure for the 5 inch driver and stock tweeter if that is what you have now.
So if you are going to do a 8" driver in the doors? There are a few raw drivers that at 8" will work and cross over high enough with a budget tweeter without leaving a null in the sound. Some don't notice it. Some do. The best bang for your buck is going to be from a 2 way system, but if you have the skills to make it look good, then you can always find what works best for you for the midrange install.

The really nice thing with a 3 way system is that it really opens up driver selection. You can use a whole range of tweeters at that point.

I don't know if you are familiar with Parts express or Madisound or Woofersetc or many of the others that are out there, but they have a great list of people who just use raw drivers for car audio installs. And Budget installs happen to be their thing. You may get some more ideas on there as well.



As far as the New tech on the block when it comes to drivers? The only new stuff that has came to the scene has been the AMT tweeter being affordable now. It's not perfect. It still has its problems with resonance in some areas. And can be a bit more forward and bright then those that are use to the almost relaxing sound of a soft dome tweeter. But when crossed over above IMO, 10k, they don't seem to have any problems working there minus some issues that you can correct with placement as they tend to be somewhat more directional and have some Pesky Peaky parts due to driver build quality etc.


Here is a good thread on the AMT tweeters:

A very cool person came up with a list of AMT's so far as of 2017, Oscar Jr Came up with a very good list of all that is out there.


The other really good news is that as far as Midrange drivers go? We got our lion's share these days thanks to the Bluetooth mini speaker craze. So there are a TON of great drivers out there that will work great for Midranges.

Celsiston and Fountek seem to be the go too pick of many budget Hifi heads at around $18 - $35 dollars respectively for their build quality, sound and output. However, tons of driver choices in the midrange drivers that would work well.


Seas has one of the best tweeters for the DIY guy that just fits like a glove, sounds great and is easy to install and van take a low crossover point without much fuss. I love the Honeycomb grill. But aesthetics are important to me.


The only new trend in Speaker tech has been the affordability of low profile drivers that don't stink. Arguably, they don't seem to have the detail as some other drivers do, but that's up to you to decide.

Also, Amps are getting cheap as chips that sound great. 5 channel amps are like a dime a dozen. And the best part is , many of the parts can be upgraded for like $30 bucks if you can handle a soldering iron making them real contenders for sound quality. There is a thread about the NVX amps that I just read about Capacitor and Op amp replacements.


Also, DSP, can be had for as little as $15 bucks. You have to have a laptop, and do some soldering, and it is no where near as easy as fiddling with a knob, or even a WYSIWYG display, but its not a bad option to set up active crossover points. Doing the DSP part and tuning becomes a bit more of a challenge with things like Sigmastudio. But as far as audio quality, its right up there with some of the best. And the DIYaudio guys in Germany are really making this little board do some wonders.

There has never been a better time to be in Car audio if you ask me. And there are so many options now, its really is a buyers market.



Before you purchase anything, I would start with the basics of getting your doors ready with sound deadening. Noico? I think has some budget options that work well. So you have more choices then just Dynamat. The spray stuff still sucks just like it did back in the day however :) (seeing as its just bedliner most of the time)


In fact, they make great android head units with Digital outs for less then $250 bucks today. That alone is amazing. Joying I think is the brand of the radio that a member here did a full walk thru with. It has some impressive results. And amps that take a digital signal in are starting to become more common & affordable.


I would hold off on new drivers till you get the sound deadening in place first. See what you got to work with, and then check out some of the classifieds on here. The deals of used gear from a person to upgraded to some esoteric thing from what most people would call a premium set is really good selection as of late.

Also check out Mark on his channel at Car Audio Fabrications Mark just did a great video on his dad's car.


If it was me, and you wanted to know more about crossover points? There is free software like REW and other things you can use to test out crossover points on a spare PC you have laying around. You can work with crossover slopes and can do a lot that will get you working with drivers. I would start with working with some cheap speakers you have and see what some tuning can do. You can use those skills in your own car and drivers you pick.

You can also pick up a Cheap 4 channel China Board amp to test stuff in the home basement or garage. Or just use an old Home theater receiver and the 5 channels you have via Optical or analogue etc.


Have fun man. Do that, and all will be good. Enjoy the build!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Well you have a fine platform with already a good amount of sound deadening. So that helps.

I just want to confirm, this is the style of car you have correct?
03_GAMMA_LS 2003 Lincoln LS Specs, Photos, Modification Info at CarDomain

1. Do you have the THX system in it?
2. Does it still have the factory amps?
3. Are the Factory amps being used?
4. Have any of the speakers been replaced?
5. If they have? What drivers are in there?
6. What do you like or don't like about the speakers you have?


You said you don't mind building customs things. Are you okay with FIberglass and making Tweeter pods? Or do you want to go more with a factory look?

This person said his goals were to keep it as factory as possible, but went with a "Free Air" design for the subwoofers. Its actually a very good budget install where he did the sound deadening and door treatment to get the most out of his upgraded parts. Used Dollar tree Cutting boards for speaker mounts for is 6 1/2 speakers he installed. There is plenty of room for a large 8" shallow if you know how to work with Wood. I like how he did the front doors and sealed them very well.


Another person took another route, but I think you are going to see a Pattern here. Most are 2 way installs. The dash does not seem to have that much space for a midrange driver.

He mounted his tweeters on the sails. He went with a Focal set. Thing is, I have been looking for anyone who did a 3 way install on the front stage of the LS. I have not found any yet.



Crutchfield has a guide on where the stock tweeter is, I guess some cars did not have the sail tweeters. You could use this area for a Midrange? Maybe a 2" Fountek driver would work in here? But... I have yet to seen anyone do custom Pods in the pillars so far.


This thread goes over how other people paceed their tweeters. Some have said that the factory tweeter location is horrible for the soundstage. So they installed them in the doors.



Another person did this.




So I really looked around, and I don't see anyone who has done a 3 way setup yet. So you might be the first one.

If you are on a budget, I would recommend staying with a 2 way system simply due to the fact that sound deadening the doors is going to take up at least a $80 bucks of your $250 budget. And that's really going to give you the most bang for your buck so the mid bass drivers perform their best.


I mean if we are going to be reasonable, the sound deadening is going to be where you are going to get the most bang for the buck with any set of speakers you throw in that don't use the small sealed enclosure for the 5 inch driver and stock tweeter if that is what you have now.
So if you are going to do a 8" driver in the doors? There are a few raw drivers that at 8" will work and cross over high enough with a budget tweeter without leaving a null in the sound. Some don't notice it. Some do. The best bang for your buck is going to be from a 2 way system, but if you have the skills to make it look good, then you can always find what works best for you for the midrange install.

The really nice thing with a 3 way system is that it really opens up driver selection. You can use a whole range of tweeters at that point.

I don't know if you are familiar with Parts express or Madisound or Woofersetc or many of the others that are out there, but they have a great list of people who just use raw drivers for car audio installs. And Budget installs happen to be their thing. You may get some more ideas on there as well.



As far as the New tech on the block when it comes to drivers? The only new stuff that has came to the scene has been the AMT tweeter being affordable now. It's not perfect. It still has its problems with resonance in some areas. And can be a bit more forward and bright then those that are use to the almost relaxing sound of a soft dome tweeter. But when crossed over above IMO, 10k, they don't seem to have any problems working there minus some issues that you can correct with placement as they tend to be somewhat more directional and have some Pesky Peaky parts due to driver build quality etc.


Here is a good thread on the AMT tweeters:

A very cool person came up with a list of AMT's so far as of 2017, Oscar Jr Came up with a very good list of all that is out there.


The other really good news is that as far as Midrange drivers go? We got our lion's share these days thanks to the Bluetooth mini speaker craze. So there are a TON of great drivers out there that will work great for Midranges.

Celsiston and Fountek seem to be the go too pick of many budget Hifi heads at around $18 - $35 dollars respectively for their build quality, sound and output. However, tons of driver choices in the midrange drivers that would work well.


Seas has one of the best tweeters for the DIY guy that just fits like a glove, sounds great and is easy to install and van take a low crossover point without much fuss. I love the Honeycomb grill. But aesthetics are important to me.


The only new trend in Speaker tech has been the affordability of low profile drivers that don't stink. Arguably, they don't seem to have the detail as some other drivers do, but that's up to you to decide.

Also, Amps are getting cheap as chips that sound great. 5 channel amps are like a dime a dozen. And the best part is , many of the parts can be upgraded for like $30 bucks if you can handle a soldering iron making them real contenders for sound quality. There is a thread about the NVX amps that I just read about Capacitor and Op amp replacements.


Also, DSP, can be had for as little as $15 bucks. You have to have a laptop, and do some soldering, and it is no where near as easy as fiddling with a knob, or even a WYSIWYG display, but its not a bad option to set up active crossover points. Doing the DSP part and tuning becomes a bit more of a challenge with things like Sigmastudio. But as far as audio quality, its right up there with some of the best. And the DIYaudio guys in Germany are really making this little board do some wonders.

There has never been a better time to be in Car audio if you ask me. And there are so many options now, its really is a buyers market.



Before you purchase anything, I would start with the basics of getting your doors ready with sound deadening. Noico? I think has some budget options that work well. So you have more choices then just Dynamat. The spray stuff still sucks just like it did back in the day however :) (seeing as its just bedliner most of the time)


In fact, they make great android head units with Digital outs for less then $250 bucks today. That alone is amazing. Joying I think is the brand of the radio that a member here did a full walk thru with. It has some impressive results. And amps that take a digital signal in are starting to become more common & affordable.


I would hold off on new drivers till you get the sound deadening in place first. See what you got to work with, and then check out some of the classifieds on here. The deals of used gear from a person to upgraded to some esoteric thing from what most people would call a premium set is really good selection as of late.

Also check out Mark on his channel at Car Audio Fabrications Mark just did a great video on his dad's car.


If it was me, and you wanted to know more about crossover points? There is free software like REW and other things you can use to test out crossover points on a spare PC you have laying around. You can work with crossover slopes and can do a lot that will get you working with drivers. I would start with working with some cheap speakers you have and see what some tuning can do. You can use those skills in your own car and drivers you pick.

You can also pick up a Cheap 4 channel China Board amp to test stuff in the home basement or garage. Or just use an old Home theater receiver and the 5 channels you have via Optical or analogue etc.


Have fun man. Do that, and all will be good. Enjoy the build!
First of all i want to say WOW THANK YOU!!!! tons of good vehicle specific info here.
and yes i saw him unbox and show off that jl audio c7 set and was drooling, the install was very nice as well!

are these still a good option? one setup i considered were the dayton es18 and a seas tffn tweeter, however i hear through google that these dont give the best midrange. hence the idea of a 3 way system.

im willing to spend the money on the woofers if they perform better. In a way i guess a front stage should never be skimped on being that it IS the soul of the system so to speak.
The 250 budget was for raw drivers ONLY. not including anything else, however with this i may take my time and look around more to make sure im happy with my choices.

(1)The car came with THX sound yes
(2) The amps are still there
(3)however trying to make them work was a bust i think they are toast
(4)They were
(5)some sony 6 1/2" 3 ways upfront in the doors, rockford prime 6x9s in the rear deck (bought it this way ofcourse this is one of the first things i checked haha)
(5) easy to break up on head unit power, dont like the placement , the dsp inside the jvc kw v340bt makes them sound much better but at the expense of loudness. The "lift" function in the head units dsp is responsible for cleaning up the muddy distortion however vice versa is also responsible for the lack of loudness- i may turn this off and tweak the eq a little more.....I mean they sound great sitting still with the car parked but get on the road and its not such a stellar performance , due to placement they also just dont give the stereo imaging im yearning.

which brings me to sound deadening, yes it definately needs it i would have expected more from a supposed luxury car but then again the ole girl is nearly 17 years old. No problem i think i have a solution that i used in one of my jeep builds where the carpet was removed (jeep is a mud buggy) and thermal treatment had to be put down to keep the floor pan cool . heres a thread about it, mentioning the company i used "hy tech thermal solutions".they also sell micro spheres to throw in whatever paint you choose and sound deadening specific products.


much cheaper alternative, however im probably going to strip the interior down and spray like mad im sure most people wouldnt do that .

I plan to use non factory locations to get the most out of things and will be breaking out the fiberglass, i will go for a factory look but not in factory locations if that makes sense?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,894 Posts
Looks like you've already received some good advice. If I were wanting to go three way in the LS, I would go with a 6.5"-7" midbass in the door and use a small format mid and tweeter built out from the sail panels in a vertical orientation. Many now call these "sail monitors."

Somthing like what you see below, on a smaller scale. Photo courtesy of Nick Adams and his 2012 GTI Build...


To do this, you will want to use include a DSP in your plans as well as enough amplification to have one channel per speaker. So, 6 channels for the 3-way up front plus whatever you want/need for a subwoofer. Keeping budget in mind, I would consider a pair of US Acoustic Lisas with one bridged for the midbasses and one powering the mids and tweeters. And then the Mike for the sub(s) of choice.

On a budget, my drivers of choice would probably be the following ($176)...
GR Research M-165X
Tectonic TEBM46C20N-4B
SB Acoustics SB14ST-C000-4

Alternately, I would consider these ($168-206)...
Dayton RS180-4
Fountek FR59EXE
Tymphany NE65W-04
Dayton ND16FA-6

And beyond the recommendations, I can provide you my reasoning. Both the M-165X and the RS180-4 have a reasonably high Qts and should perform well in a door IB install. They also have enough excursion to give you solid midbass output. Even though it is an 8 Ohm driver, I give the nod to the M-165X because it does have more excursion and the efficiency makes up for the higher resistance.

The three midrange drivers were selected because they are a few of the only "budget" drivers that work well in a TINY sealed enclosure you could build off of your sail panels. I modeled them in just 0.2l and they both kept Qtc in check and allowed for a fairly low crossover (300-500Hz depending on power/output). The TEBM46C20N-4B and FR59EXE are more efficient and have a lower Qtc in the small enclosure, so they are pretty even on that front. The TEBM driver is also a Balance Mode Radiator (BMR) which means the dispersion characteristics are pretty outstanding. So good in fact, that you could potentially pair it with your midbass and no tweeter for a "full range" 2-way configuration. That is one of the reasons it would be my choice over the Fountek. The Fountek is also a copy of a design by Audible Physics which also kept it from being my first choice.

For the tweeters, I was looking for something compact and inexpensive that still has decent performance. With any of the mids, you will not need a low crossover point. The overall size, flatter response and superior dispersion characteristics of the SB14ST-C000-4 are what made me choose it over the ND16FA-6. The ND16FA-6 might be simpler to mount though.

With the Tectonic and Tymphany mids as well as the Dayton tweeter, you'll probably want to make some sort of grill for the combination to help protect things and/or keep them hidden. If you elected to go with the Fountek mid and SB Acoustic tweeter, both have integrated grills so an additional grill would not be necessary. Though, the grill designs are different between the two.

Lastly, if you aren't up for building your sails out similar to the photo above, consider getting in touch with Geoff at Printed Acoustics. He can design and 3D print an enclosure for your specific needs. He also works at Parts Express, so he has access to many of the drivers listed above for quick reference.
Printed Acoustics

I almost forgot. I also recommend checking out ResoNix Sound Solutions for all of your sound treatment needs. Nick (Skizer) is the owner and he is a big contributor to this site and others. The products also appear to perform extremely well. Independent testing will be coming soon.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Looks like you've already received some good advice. If I were wanting to go three way in the LS, I would go with a 6.5"-7" midbass in the door and use a small format mid and tweeter built out from the sail panels in a vertical orientation. Many now call these "sail monitors."

Somthing like what you see below, on a smaller scale. Photo courtesy of Nick Adams and his 2012 GTI Build...


To do this, you will want to use include a DSP in your plans as well as enough amplification to have one channel per speaker. So, 6 channels for the 3-way up front plus whatever you want/need for a subwoofer. Keeping budget in mind, I would consider a pair of US Acoustic Lisas with one bridged for the midbasses and one powering the mids and tweeters. And then the Mike for the sub(s) of choice.

On a budget, my drivers of choice would probably be the following ($176)...
GR Research M-165X
Tectonic TEBM46C20N-4B
SB Acoustics SB14ST-C000-4

Alternately, I would consider these ($168-206)...
Dayton RS180-4
Fountek FR59EXE
Tymphany NE65W-04
Dayton ND16FA-6

And beyond the recommendations, I can provide you my reasoning. Both the M-165X and the RS180-4 have a reasonably high Qts and should perform well in a door IB install. They also have enough excursion to give you solid midbass output. Even though it is an 8 Ohm driver, I give the nod to the M-165X because it does have more excursion and the efficiency makes up for the higher resistance.

The three midrange drivers were selected because they are a few of the only "budget" drivers that work well in a TINY sealed enclosure you could build off of your sail panels. I modeled them in just 0.2l and they both kept Qtc in check and allowed for a fairly low crossover (300-500Hz depending on power/output). The TEBM46C20N-4B and FR59EXE are more efficient and have a lower Qtc in the small enclosure, so they are pretty even on that front. The TEBM driver is also a Balance Mode Radiator (BMR) which means the dispersion characteristics are pretty outstanding. So good in fact, that you could potentially pair it with your midbass and no tweeter for a "full range" 2-way configuration. That is one of the reasons it would be my choice over the Fountek. The Fountek is also a copy of a design by Audible Physics which also kept it from being my first choice.

For the tweeters, I was looking for something compact and inexpensive that still has decent performance. With any of the mids, you will not need a low crossover point. The overall size, flatter response and superior dispersion characteristics of the SB14ST-C000-4 are what made me choose it over the ND16FA-6. The ND16FA-6 might be simpler to mount though.

With the Tectonic and Tymphany mids as well as the Dayton tweeter, you'll probably want to make some sort of grill for the combination to help protect things and/or keep them hidden. If you elected to go with the Fountek mid and SB Acoustic tweeter, both have integrated grills so an additional grill would not be necessary. Though, the grill designs are different between the two.

Lastly, if you aren't up for building your sails out similar to the photo above, consider getting in touch with Geoff at Printed Acoustics. He can design and 3D print an enclosure for your specific needs. He also works at Parts Express, so he has access to many of the drivers listed above for quick reference.
Printed Acoustics

I almost forgot. I also recommend checking out ResoNix Sound Solutions for all of your sound treatment needs. Nick (Skizer) is the owner and he is a big contributor to this site and others. The products also appear to perform extremely well. Independent testing will be coming soon.
Ok so we’ve covered budget options, so now could we get a middle of the road 3 way setup and what you would call a high end setup from you?

Budget just opened up!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,894 Posts
Ok so we’ve covered budget options, so now could we get a middle of the road 3 way setup and what you would call a high end setup from you?

Budget just opened up!
There are options for every budget. What does "opened up" mean to you? And what needs to be purchased with that budget.

For mids and tweeters, the drivers used in the sail pod picture that I posted are exceptionally nice. They aren't cheap, but they also aren't insanely expensive like some boutique car audio brands. The mid is a Scanspeak 12M/4631G00 and it retails for just about $600/pair. The tweeter is a Scanspeak R3004/6020 and retails for about $320/pair.

Scanspeak 12M
Scanspeak R3004
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
182 Posts
They aren't cheap,
Neither is your time. And its limited. Get the best. Never look back. Its like when you purchase Snap On Tools. The Good stuff does its job day in and day out.

Does it sound that much better? It can. But where you see the True Value? When you set it up. DO your tuning. It's often a one time deal of set and forget. You know the drivers are going to be very well matched. There is less headaches to get it up and running.

What's the real difference between a budget driver and a Speakers that cost $200 bucks each? You know what you are going to get. With lesser drivers? You are the Q.A. Tech. And I think that really sums it up.

It's not like you are missing out on something. Its more like.. You don't get any extra. For once... You only want what you ordered. No Free Distortion. Thanks! :cool:
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top