DiyMobileAudio.com Car Stereo Forum banner

1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hey all, so I just picked up my 2nd Honda S2000 last weekend and the previous owner overworked the speakers which now have a buzzing sound when bass kicks in. I went to my local audio shop and he outfitted me with new components and an amp to power them. He said the stock headunit should be sufficient for the signal in a convertible (I have the softtop down unless it's raining or it's below 30 degrees).

I'm just wanting to get a consensus to make sure this is the proper solution for my car.

Components: JL Audio TR650-CSi
Amp: JL Audio GS2250 (250/2)

Edit: I haven't installed anything yet, just want to make sure I have everything in order before I have to take off panels and run wires everywhere.

There are also 4 speakers in the rear in the roll-hoops (2 behind each seat). I'm wondering if I need to upgrade those too if I'm upgrading the door speaks and switch to a 4 channel amp or if I can keep those as-is. They're probably the size of the tweeters in the front door panel. There is a company who sells replacements but I have to modify the paneling because the speaker sits right in front of the metal hoop.

Is a headunit necessary? The quality from the stock headunit has been good in my previous S2000 and good in this one aside from the speakers. I have to get an iPhone compatible unit for the new S2000 since my old one doesn't fit. I can either do that or get a new headunit with iPhone capability.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Seems like a good plan.

I'd either disconnect the rears, or fade them really low off HU power.

I'd say that the stock HU should be fine, but you should consider sealing up the inner door access holes.
What do you mean by sealing up the inner door access holes? Are you referring to when I run speaker wire through the rubber piece that protects the electrical wiring between the body and the door?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #5

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,913 Posts
When he says rear speakers, he really means the speakers are right next to his head. The image from those isn't actually from the rear, it's just to keep sound up by your head with the top down. They are practically built into the headrest IIRC. I think disconnecting them would be a silly idea as they actually do help the sound in high-ambient-noise situations. Now how to go about tuning them so they don't mess up the fronts would be a different story. Upon first thought I would say use them like high-mounted tweeters and T/A them approriately. I would just have woofers in the doors and use the ear-level speakers as your tweeters. I think you can still treat it all as "front stage" if the tweeters are right next to your head...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
When he says rear speakers, he really means the speakers are right next to his head. The image from those isn't actually from the rear, it's just to keep sound up by your head with the top down. They are practically built into the headrest IIRC. I think disconnecting them would be a silly idea as they actually do help the sound in high-ambient-noise situations. Now how to go about tuning them so they don't mess up the fronts would be a different story. Upon first thought I would say use them like high-mounted tweeters and T/A them approriately. I would just have woofers in the doors and use the ear-level speakers as your tweeters. I think you can still treat it all as "front stage" if the tweeters are right next to your head...
That is correct. (Photo: Roll-Hoop Speaker) You can see in the photo the roll-hoop behind the headrest part of the seat... there's a rectangular box indentation... that's where the speaker resides. There are 4 total.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,913 Posts
that's what I thought. Then my recommendation stands I think. But I don't know how that is wired, so i'm not quite sure what you would want to do processing with. Posting a wiring diagram of the factory system might help us recommend something further, but for right now you might just want to replace the stock speakers with something that is doing close to the same thing (i.e. if it was just a woofer in the doors, replace it with another woofer, sans tweeter). Focus on integrating to the stock system. Otherwise that is a large-sized can of worms you have there...

BTW nice color. Beautiful car.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
I've owned three s2000's not and we always concentrate on putting the image up front, forget those roll hoop speakers. You will mess up the soundstage so just leave them disconnected.

Be sure to fully dynamat each door, I've doen this on my car with the Focals and WOW the sound is amazing - almost don't need a sub if you do it correctly. Try to get a nice clean signal and don't go cheap on the sound deadening since Honda really went cheap on that stuff!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
that's what I thought. Then my recommendation stands I think.... Otherwise that is a large-sized can of worms you have there...

BTW nice color. Beautiful car.
Thank you. :) I definitely simplified the system by not messing with the roll-hoop speakers.

I've owned three s2000's not and we always concentrate on putting the image up front, forget those roll hoop speakers. You will mess up the soundstage so just leave them disconnected.

Be sure to fully dynamat each door, I've doen this on my car with the Focals and WOW the sound is amazing - almost don't need a sub if you do it correctly. Try to get a nice clean signal and don't go cheap on the sound deadening since Honda really went cheap on that stuff!
I should have posted a Finished reply with photos when I completed the setup. I didn't mess with the roll-hoop speakers like you mentioned and I did not install a subwoofer. The amp is currently sitting inside of the spare tire in the spare-tire-well and it's been working perfectly.

My only issue right now, which you mentioned a little on, is sound-deadening. On heavy bass hits the interior door panels rattle slightly. Do I put the dynamat on the metal part of the door or on the inside of the interior door panel to solve that issue?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
513 Posts
For a convertible, I would go with horns and at least one 8" or bigger speaker.

If you must stick with 6.5's, I've had pretty good results with the Seas CA18RNX. Proper deadening of the doors is critical.

To save on space, I'd go with a Kenwood X4R or the Kicker SX series as a two in one processor/amp.

Good luck. It's a lot of work but top down, winding road, good music makes it all worth it...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
For a convertible, I would go with horns and at least one 8" or bigger speaker.

If you must stick with 6.5's, I've had pretty good results with the Seas CA18RNX. Proper deadening of the doors is critical.

To save on space, I'd go with a Kenwood X4R or the Kicker SX series as a two in one processor/amp.

Good luck. It's a lot of work but top down, winding road, good music makes it all worth it...
This project is already finished. It's difficult to fit a 8" or bigger speaker in a Honda S2000; they can only fit in the trunk and I did not want to lose any trunk space. :p

You're right though... top down, winding road, and quality sound makes it all worth it. :laugh:

Custom made wood shims by my dad because the speakers are 6.75" instead of 6.5"




No wires installed yet here, I'll get a photo of it now soon.
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top