DiyMobileAudio.com Car Stereo Forum banner

1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
220 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys,


So I'm new to car stereos, but not to stereos in general. I've been building hi-fi home stereos for quite a while now. So I'm not totally ignorant with audio, but I am pretty much empty with car stereo knowledge. haha I have a good idea of what I want, and I'm doing all of the research I can on brands and what I can buy, and it's slowly coming together.

So I'm 20, and was a child during the golden years of car audio. Then again, most of my hi-fi gear is from the 70's, so this is nothing new. At any rate, I find myself way more drawn to the old school components and speakers. I feel like a lot of the new stuff is very gimmicky. Even if it may perform better, the old school stuff is just way more appealing. So with that being said, I'm going to try to do an old school build. I was going to post in the old school section, but I have my old school components picked out, and I think I might be working with modern components for the rest of what I need.

As for what I want out of the system. I'm a bit of an audiophile in the house, and while I don't expect that same thing in my car, I don't want it either. I'm a bass head(duh), and I like loud, but clean. Again, I have realistic expectations on the actual sound quality, but I just don't want to have one of those systems that can only create loud music with so much distortion, you can't hear the song. At the same time, I know I cant accommodate an SPL comp system, but I think I can make something loud. So in a nutshell, clean, decently loud, a good bit of bass, and the ability to stay fairly clean at higher volumes.

My car is a 1984 Mercedes Turbo Diesel. The electrical system is gonna have to get beefed up a bit. It's only a 55amp alternator, but being a diesel, it doesn't have to run an ignition system. it's still a fairly low power alternator though. I'm currently consulting on a Mercedes board about what needs to be done on that end. At any rate, I'll definitely be doing the big 3. From the hi-fi stereos, know beefy power cables are useful, so I'll be sure to use a nice thick gauge wire.

Now as for the speakers I can work with. I can fit 4" in the dash, and 5.25" on the rear deck. I know that's not the greatest set of circumstances, but I think with the right quality drivers, I can work with it. I will probably be going with two 12" woofers. Probably mild over kill, but I want to go that route. Haha call it me being childish.

As for what I have figured out so far. I think I'm gonna be picking up a pair of 12" MTX Blue Thunder woofers. These are the ones that have the black cones and say MTX Blue Thunder on the dust cap. I've done some reading on these and they seem to be regarded as a decent driver, that will work quite well for what I want to do with them. From what I've been able to find, I think a ported box will do well. I found the fierce audio dual 12" ported box. Probably not a box to right home about, but seems to be a decent box for the money. Then there's the amp. this is where I'm really obsessing with the old school thing. As it seems most people do. haha I'm being picky with these for aesthetics and performance. From what I've found, and been able to read, I'm liking the SoundStream units. I was excited to find they still make the REF series. I love the look of them and I think they're supposed to be pretty good amps. I found that I can get a 400watt 2channel model for about $200. Bit more then I anticipated spending, but for a new amp, that seems like a good price.

My head unit- I can avoid really having to tear in to my dash if I can use the head units amplification instead of an out board amp for my main speakers. I see 50 watts RMS is a pretty doable figure. From what I know, and if I'm not mistaken, as long as I cross the really punchy signals to the subs, I can generate plenty of volume with 50 watts for the mids and highs. Then I can run the rca cables to the amp for the subs. Again, I would like to use a built in cross over in the head unit. I know how not old-school that is, but this is about compromise. haha So I'm accepting I'm probably going to have to work with a more modern head unit. I can live with that. This is where I could use some tips. I think I can get what I need for under $100, but again, I'm not sure. Could really use some help with that.

And finally, my speakers. I'm going old school on the subs and amp, and I'd like to go old school on the speakers too, but I gotta do what's gonna be most effective. Again, I have spots for two 4" in the dash, and 2 5.25" on the rear deck. I figure a coaxial would probably be the best. I know how general that is, so maybe just some brand recommendations, things to look for, etc. I'd like to get both pairs for about $100, but I know that figure may be way off.

I'm figuring due to my cars electrical system, I may need a capacitor or one of those add in batteries for the amp, but I don't want to really decide on that till I understand those components better. I also plan on insulating every body panel I can. I don't want to create on of those rattle cars. haha

So at this point, I kind of have an idea of what I want, and from what I know, I think it will work, but I know that it may be a disaster waiting to happen. haha. All in a nutshell, head unit with 50wpc rms, using built in cross over, highs, mids, and midbass crossed in to the 4" dash speakers and 5.25" deck speakers, and two 12" MTX Blue Thunders with a 400Wx2 SoundStream REF powering them. I'm pretty set on my subs and amp, unless there is a major reason I should avoid them, and looking for suggestions on the main speakers and the head unit.

Sorry for the novel, I just wanted to cover all the bases. Thanks so much guys!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,691 Posts
Welcome and get ready for the ride of your life lol. First let me start by saying you are not going to find a true 50 per channel head unit. If you like old school find the radio that you like, but add a small four channel to it. The rest of my comments I am sure I will add later. Once again welcome. :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
696 Posts
Your not gonna get the power your looking for from a hu. At most 10-15watts if its clean power or not is another story. Nice to see a 20 yr old into sq, good luck

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,261 Posts
I suggest spending some time in the Build Logs & Project Install Gallery - DIYMA.com - Scientific Car Audio - Truth in Sound Quality forum to get some install ideas.

I'm not an expert but I don't expect 4" in the dash and 5.25 in the back is going to sound very good. With the sub backup you can get decent tonality but hardly any staging or imaging? Unless you like your music to come from from behind you....

In your case I'd rather go with a set of full range speakers in the dash (3" or 3.5" maybe some Vifa tc9-fd 18 08, cheap but very decent) backed up with some 6.5" in the bottom of the doors (cheap Aurasound NS6 from 80 Hz up?) and maybe forget about the rear speakers at first. And get a 4 channel for those front speakers, one that has the needed crossovers to make it work...
edit: You want to play it loud, forget about aiming the 3 or 4" to the windshield! Maybe look into a more concervative 2 way 6.5" component set...

It all depends on what you want from your system.
Another thread with a wealth of good links:
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/general-car-audio-discussion-no-question-dumb/116055-list-usefull-diyma-threads.html
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
220 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Thanks so much for the responses so far. I had a feeling those power ratings were mildly exagerated. After reading what people said here, I think I want to get into this a bit more then before and do things right. So I guess I'll be picking up an old school cassette deck like I wanted and just running it to a 4 channel amp. From what I've read I should be able to work well with an Alpine or Kenwood. I'm not sure what 4ch amp I'm going to go with yet, we'll see. As for the speaker configuration...

I must say, I didn't know imaging was something that was worked with in car audio(I missed on best part!) until now. With home Hi-Fi, imaging is a huge thing. So I think I can make something work with it in the car. Now, I don't want to ignore my rear speakers, as I have a 4 door and I want good sound all around. I recently discovered the component style speakers VS. the Coaxial type I had been looking at, and I'm definitely going to work with those.

My cars door pannels don't really allow a speaker to be mounted in them, but I can certainly put something in the kick pannel. Now, with the component speakers, can the tweeter and mid be run off the same amp channels, like the coaxials would? If so, I could run 4 off of a 4ch amp. Or do I need a channel for the tweeter and a channel for the mid? If that's the case, my plan is useless. haha

Based on the assumption I could run a tweeter and a mid on the same channel, I could put a 6.5 in each kick pannel, and then use the dash spot for my 4 in, and put the tweeters in there, aimed at the listener. Then I could put the grill over them. Then in the back, I could mount the 5.25's in the deck, and mount the tweeters on maybe the mid pillar aimed at the rear listeners. Again, I know that may be a terrible set up, but it's what I've thrown together so far. I'm here for critique.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
220 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Okay, so I've gotten some more figured out. I realized I was correct in assuming the Tweeter and mid of a component can be powered by the same channel. So I'm going to put the 6.5 in the front kick panel, with the tweeter in the dash pointed at the listener, and I realized I can go 6.5 on the rear deck if I just get a little lifter ring, which I'll probably do. I've found that I can get a pair of these for about $45...

Rockford Fosgate

I know they're the low level series but it seems like for the money those are pretty damn good. Anyone have experiences with those, or newer RF products in general?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,502 Posts
i had the prime 6.5 coaxials they were ok. i was impressed with the polk DB series more
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
220 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
i had the prime 6.5 coaxials they were ok. i was impressed with the polk DB series more
Thanks for the info man.

So I actually started pulling at body panels and realized a mild flaw in my plan. There is pretty much no place for 6.5's up front. So I revised my plan and I'm looking for some critique on this. So I can still fit the 6.5 components in the back and I had an idea. I can get 6.5 components, and put the midbass drivers on the rear deck, and run extra wiring for the tweeters and mount them up front(I have the perfect mounting spot) and then I could get some 4in mid range drivers for the dash. Just single mid range drivers though, no coaxials or anything. So I'd have my tweeters up front aimed at the listener, 4in mids for the upper mid range in the dash, 6.5's on the rear deck for the mid bass, and then my subwoofers in the trunk. The main issue I see with this is that my midbass will come from behind me, but I think with the mids in the dash, I can blend it. What do ya'll think?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,502 Posts
most people are against speakers in the back as it will draw the sound away from you in the front.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
220 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
most people are against speakers in the back as it will draw the sound away from you in the front.
Ah yeah, I understand. I suppose I'm trying to avoid really tearing the car up for this install, even if it means sacrificing a few things. I suppose at this point I'm mainly going for balanced sound more then anything. I get enough pinpoint imaging at home. haha
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,502 Posts
i hear ya. i was thinking of what you could do, and its difficult.

you could do 4" mid bass driver, and then either a tweeter, or full range that will meet the crossover

if you can fit it, this would be a good 4" driver
Tang Band W4-1720 4" Underhung Midbass Driver 264-872
claims up to 8,000hz but its depth is big

or this one with shallower depth, plays to 6,000 hz
Tang Band W4-1658SB 4" Midbass Driver 264-878

just showing u ideas, i have no idea which drivers would be best for you
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
220 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
i hear ya. i was thinking of what you could do, and its difficult.

you could do 4" mid bass driver, and then either a tweeter, or full range that will meet the crossover

if you can fit it, this would be a good 4" driver
Tang Band W4-1720 4" Underhung Midbass Driver 264-872
claims up to 8,000hz but its depth is big

or this one with shallower depth, plays to 6,000 hz
Tang Band W4-1658SB 4" Midbass Driver 264-878

just showing u ideas, i have no idea which drivers would be best for you
Those are really cool looking drivers. I'll have to check the depth I have available. Either way I do appreciate the assistance. Thanks!
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top