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Discussion Starter #1
I wanted to start a thread here to get some input and feedback on an install I'm doing in my boat. I'll be adding pictures later on as I progress through the install, but for now, here is my planned equipment list:

JL HD750/1 powering 1 pair of Wetsounds Rev 10 tower speakers
2x JL HD750/1 powering 2x JL 12W6's in a ported box (exact box specs TBD)
JL HD600/4 powering 4 JL M770 components
JL HD 600/4 - 2 channels powering 2 JL M770 components and the other 2 channels bridged to 1 JL 10IB5 subwoofer


Currently I had planned on a 1/0 cable running to the input of a distribution block and 4 gauge out to the amps but I've since added 2 more amps. Do I need to add a second run of 1/0 cable and another distribution block for this amount of power? Or can I use the single run of 1/0 cable and buy a distribution block that has 5 outputs?
The JL amps are rated at 3,450 watts RMS at 11-14V. Worst case scenario that is 313 Amps draw at 11V, but I doubt I would ever have all of the speakers turned up that loud simultaneously. Any thoughts on this?
 

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I would go with a second run of 0 gauge. Find a distro block that fits what you need as far as inputs/outputs go.

Sick boat btw...pictures? I would love one but they are just out of my price range. I hope to pick up a Yahama AR212 or 242 in the next year or two.
 

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using a subwoofer amp to power the tower speakers is probably going to cause issues since its not full range. I truly wish they would let you turn off the crossovers in many class d sub amps, but they usually don't, and I don't think the jl amps are any different?

why are you running two different sub set ups? the ported 12s should be enough for most occasions, and having multiple sub locations will cause cancelation no matter how hard you try.
 

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using a subwoofer amp to power the tower speakers is probably going to cause issues since its not full range. I truly wish they would let you turn off the crossovers in many class d sub amps, but they usually don't, and I don't think the jl amps are any different?

why are you running two different sub set ups? the ported 12s should be enough for most occasions, and having multiple sub locations will cause cancelation no matter how hard you try.
+ it's a mono amp, powering a pair of tower speakers in mono @2ohms isn't the best choice.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I would go with a second run of 0 gauge. Find a distro block that fits what you need as far as inputs/outputs go.

Sick boat btw...pictures? I would love one but they are just out of my price range. I hope to pick up a Yahama AR212 or 242 in the next year or two.
Do you know of any distribution blocks that have 2 1/0 inputs and 5x-6x 4 gauge outputs? The only one's I'm able to find have 4x 4 gauge outputs.

Also, thanks for the compliment! I'll try upload some pictures from my phone later. I'm having an issue with uploading them right now.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
using a subwoofer amp to power the tower speakers is probably going to cause issues since its not full range. I truly wish they would let you turn off the crossovers in many class d sub amps, but they usually don't, and I don't think the jl amps are any different?

why are you running two different sub set ups? the ported 12s should be enough for most occasions, and having multiple sub locations will cause cancelation no matter how hard you try.
The JL HD 750/1 is a full range class D amp.

That is a good question about the subs. The short answer is that the 10IB5 subwoofer is the stock sub and already installed in the boat. Due to the hole in the fiberglass I can't remove it. I have extra amplifier channels available so I can either use them or leave them disconnected. I won't spend extra time or money on tuning the extra 10" sub if it doing so proves to be more difficulty than it's worth. You're right about how the ported 12s should be enough.

+ it's a mono amp, powering a pair of tower speakers in mono @2ohms isn't the best choice.
Why does the ohm load matter? The amp is rated for 1.5-4 ohms. I can understand the concern with it being mono, but 80' behind the boat wakeboarding I don't mind not having stereo sound. I would think I would miss out on some of this sound when I'm on one side of the wake or another too. According to some other things I've read, the JL HD 750/1 does an excellent job of summing the Left and Right channels into a mono signal.
 

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that's pretty much enough for wakeboarding towers, though not ideal. id'll probably work out nicely since you'd lose a lot of the very high frequencies anyways eight ft back.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
In addition to the equipment mentioned in my OP, I have already replaced the receiver with a Clarion M606 in the glove box. There is a MW1 remote for the driver and a transom remote without a display that can control the stereo from the swim platform. This receiver has a lot of inputs (2 aux ports, USB, bluetooth), as well as many other features. It was the same size as the receiver it replaced (Clarion CMD5) so it was an easy swap.

Also, I've debated going with a Wetsounds WS420SQ for zone control, but I think I'm better off just using a few HD-RLC's to control zone volume from the driver seat vs. running a lot of RCA cables across the boat for the WS420. The HD-RLC's are much cheaper too.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
A look at the progress under the helm. Have to get the bus bars and wires relocated and rerouted to make room for the sub boxes and the opening to the cockpit. The heater unit was already removed at this point.



The holes you can see under the helm are where the heater port and breaker panel was originally located. Those will also be relocated.





A lot of wiring and cabling to clean up.

 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Here's a picture of one of the boxes. Built to JL 12W6v2 spec of 1.5 cubic ft for a ported box, tuned to 32hz using a 4" flared precision port. They're made using birch plywood, then coated inside and out with resin. With this, the wood won't rot if it were to get wet. However, the area that the boxes are located should remain dry.



And the boxes going under the helm.





Obviously a tight fit but a good use of the space, imo. If I were to do it again, I'd think about doing fiberglass to get a little more airspace with the boxes. However, the width had to be under 14" to still be able to fit through the opening behind the bow seat back.

Screwed the boxes together and attached to some structure under the helm, then installed the second port.



 

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Discussion Starter #15
Here is the trim panel that will cover the opening





Finally, the finished product. The trim panel was covered in black and blue vinyl to match the interior of the boat, with an acoustically transparent screen so the subwoofers are hidden. The trim panel was attached with interior automotive panel plastic pieces (not sure what they're called), so it can be removed if I ever need to remove the sub boxes (since the sub boxes are screwed in from inside the port area)



 

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Family has a 91 mastercraft prostar 190. Bitchin boat to ski/barefoot behind. Its a closed bow and this winter were gonna fiberglass from the tip of the bow to about 1.5ft out and build an enclosure out of it. We will either put an aero port or a slot port on the bottom so we have room to tuck the skis and such away into.

Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk
 
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