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Discussion Starter #1
Just finished my install several weeks ago and have been dealing with this issue for the past 10 days or so now. The driver seems to be dead after the car is started and running. After about 15 minutes or so, the speaker starts crackling and then operates as normal. I've checked both drivers by switching inputs and they both function normally except for this one channel. Signal is piped to a DSP then to the amp via RCA, which then actively drives the front midbass drivers and sub. The odd thing is the "dead" speaker's passive component works while the main driver is dead.

I've checked the power and it all seems to check out fine. The only thing I can think of at this point is that it's just too darn cold here in the mornings. We've been in a deep freeze for quite some time now with temps well below 0 at night. Is it possible that the amp/dsp need to get up to operating temp before they fire all channels properly?

Appreciate any helpful feedback!
 

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I think its the weather, mine does something similar. The right side midbass doesnt come on in he mornings when its cold. But after a while to warm up it comes back on. Very strange and thought its the amp at first but my tweetes play fine, so Im assuming it could be a midbass going bad, or possibly the crossover.
 

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I have never experienced any speaker I installed not working in cold weather and I lived in Chicago, N. Michigan, and Minneapolis before the ATL. Got lucky? Weird...
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Everything is less than two months old so I would certainly hope not. We're suppose to get some decent temps soon so maybe the problem will dissipate when the gear isn't sitting in -20F all night.

HAT Imagines 6.5" ran in component mode
Infinity Kappa 120.9W
RF 3sixty.3
Alpline PDX-9V
 

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Hi Jason! I was wondering when you were going to post up! Odd name, got to tell me what is behind that one.

-20 f ???? WTF. I have never been in that deep of cold, even all the years skiing I think the coldest I remember at night was maybe around zero!

So, to be sure, the problem follows the amp channel? OR do you mean the same driver has the issue regardless of which amp channel it is hooked up to?
 

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Have you tried the mid in question on another xover?
 

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I would disconnect from the amp and pop it with a 9 volt. Or at least a meter.

I've had a cold winter hour north of Toronto, even at -29 celcius, speakers start playing when car starts.
 

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Sometimes dip switches on an amp need a good cleaning. A little oxidization can cause a lot of grief.
 

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It could just be a connection that's not good... as the car heats up the connection expands a bit and the speaker starts playing.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
The weather finally broke a bit this week and we actually had a 60 degree day. The problem still persisted so it's back into the car I go. It seems to be originating at the amp so I will redo that connection. It was just so odd that the thing would not work for half the drive to work and then fire up like nothing was wrong...the tweet even worked while to main driver didn't. Anyway, I hope it is justat the amp or dsp so I don't have to tear the car apart.
 

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You have to some basic trouble shooting to find out what its causing it to behave like that.

Change mids to another xover

Change xover to another channel

Just by doing those two simple tests you'll find out if its the mid or xover.




If problem stays in the same channel output of the amp then do the following...

Swap rcas, does problem follow the rca or remains in the same output/channel of the amp.


That last step will help you determine if its the amp or the input signal that's the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I will give those a try and report back. We are back in the depths of winter with a snow storm so not sure when I will have a chance to crawl back in the trunk and mess about. Thanks for the feedback!
 

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The weather finally broke a bit this week and we actually had a 60 degree day. The problem still persisted so it's back into the car I go. It seems to be originating at the amp so I will redo that connection. It was just so odd that the thing would not work for half the drive to work and then fire up like nothing was wrong...the tweet even worked while to main driver didn't. Anyway, I hope it is justat the amp or dsp so I don't have to tear the car apart.
Jason, so the tweeter is running passive off of the mid like mine right? Then it almost has to be the mid acting wonky. HAT will take care of that for you easily with a new driver..where did you buy the Imagines?
 

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If there is power to the speaker and there is no sound it is most probably the braided litz wires from the terminal to the voice coil.Sometimes cleaning them with 91-99% alcohol will or contact cleaner will bring them back to life.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I bought the Imagines direct. When this first happened, I did change the connection to the opposite output to test the driver and the other speaker had the same issue and the driver that was having the problem was running fine. So I think the drivers are solid, but I will check. I'm thinking it may be a connection at the amp still...maybe I didn't push those cool alpine connectors in all the way or the speaker wire isn't seated in them all the way. It is just weird that the bad side would fire up like clockwork after about 15 minutes of driving. It has since gotten worse so that makes me think it is a connection problem even more.
 

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If there is power to the speaker and there is no sound it is most probably the braided litz wires from the terminal to the voice coil.Sometimes cleaning them with 91-99% alcohol will or contact cleaner will bring them back to life.
Ive never considered cleaning leads. Might have to try that on my cdt's before I throw em in a bookshelf. :idea2:
 

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I have had an amp that would cut in and out on me at the worst of times (bridged 280 RMS at 4 ohms onto a 2 way passive). After nearly tossing it from the tallest cliff, I came to the conclusion that the hpf/full/lpf dipswitch had some serious oxidization. Luckily for me the switch I was after was on a smaller daughter board that was easily removed from the main pcb. Under a magnifying glass you could see the discolouration. A few swabbing's later and it no longer crackled and no longer cut out on me.

Hope this helps
 

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Discussion Starter #19
As soon as it isn't cold as balls outside, I will give all these a try. Frustrating that this stuff is all just two months old and I believe it was all working normally at one point.
 

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I would be surprised to find that any of it is actually a paper weight. New usually means year warranty as well!

A good little tool to have in your bag of tricks is a 9v with a momentary on switch and a good pair of leads to really get into tight spots. I used the momentary switch as to only apply voltage when the switch is engaged. I do the odd house call to fix a cut out door speaker. The things I find, range from 1 screw holding a speaker in (really?) Coaxes where the tweet works and mid does not. Green tinsel leads. In most cases the voice coils of the speakers are fully and cleanly intact. I have seen JL coaxes oxidize and play only the tweeter, or nothing at all.

My biggest issue though, is where the previous installer cut corners and didn't bother running a fresh wire from amp to speaker. This almost always eventually goes bad. The owner of the car paid a shop to run speaker wires, what he got was connected behind the radio, then a piece of the same new wire was attached to the stock wiring inside the door. All because the installer was too lazy to run through the boot.
 
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