[JaySea20]

Hey Everyone,

So I spent the last weekend sealing and dampening my doors. 5 sqft of Aluminum and 40sqft of deadener and I was super impressed in how it changed the sound coming from my stock Toyota 6" x 9"s. I was thinking that if those sounded that good, the Dayton RS225's I'm gonna force in there will sound FREAKIN AMAZING! But, lo and behold, The car audio gods had another plan for me...

Before I go any further, the build is HERE.

I installed the RS225's and they sound like they are free air. There is almost no output... I'm super frustrated.
They are on a JL Slash 300/2
EDIT: Its not polarity. I never even installed the second one


- Confused Jay

 

[SkizeR]

Because those daytons were not designed for a car door (large sealed enclosure, pretty much IB). They were designed for small vented or small sealed enclosures. Its very rare that you'll find a raw driver/home audio midbass that works well in a car door.

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[seafish]

Your oem speakers are likely WAY more efficient then the Daytons.
and by not installing the second one, you are already losing half your output.

Of course if what SkizeR says its true ( and there is no reason not to believe him) then more importantly the Daytons are the wrong choice for your application.

 

[JaySea20]

Because those daytons were not designed for a car door (large sealed enclosure, pretty much IB). They were designed for small vented or small sealed enclosures. Its very rare that you'll find a raw driver/home audio midbass that works well in a car door.

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You're right. But, there have been lots of people that rave about the performance of Daytons ( especially the RS180 ) in this application. What are they doing different than I am?

Also, do you have a recommendation for what would work well without breaking the bank?

- Jay

 

[SkizeR]

You're right. But, there have been lots of people that rave about the performance of Daytons ( especially the RS180 ) in this application. What are they doing different than I am?

Also, do you have a recommendation for what would work well without breaking the bank?

- Jay

The problem is you're trusting strangers on the internet. Whats their experience? How many other drivers have they used in the same or similar situation?

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[JaySea20]

The problem is you're trusting strangers on the internet. Whats their experience? How many other drivers have they used in the same or similar situation?

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Lol! Trusting strangers... Like right now?

 

[SkizeR]

Lol! Trusting strangers... Like right now?

Now you're getting it

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[JaySea20]

Ok. In all seriousness. What would be a way to get my midbass right. I would like it to play between 60hz and probably 180 or so. If it means different drivers, then so be it. Do you think I can get away with 6.5's? I've never had great luck with midbass.

 

[Ge0]

Ok. In all seriousness. What would be a way to get my midbass right. I would like it to play between 60hz and probably 180 or so. If it means different drivers, then so be it. Do you think I can get away with 6.5's? I've never had great luck with midbass.

I personally wouldn't run 6.5's below 80Hz. But, that's just me. Have you considered Frog GS690's for your application? They were built for the job. Other options exist. These are just the first that came into mind.

Ge0

 

[gijoe]

Ok. In all seriousness. What would be a way to get my midbass right. I would like it to play between 60hz and probably 180 or so. If it means different drivers, then so be it. Do you think I can get away with 6.5's? I've never had great luck with midbass.

60hz is a stretch for most 6.5's. Sure, some can do it, but not without a heavy dose of distortion. Staying around 80hz is a much better idea, there's no reason to play them so low if you have a subwoofer.

Geo was quick on the draw!

 

[thisgsx]

From my experience, you can't, at least from all of the installs I've done (maybe I'm doing it wrong all these years?). The OEM drivers are made for the vehicle, whereas aftermarket drivers, even car audio specific drivers and component sets, I have never once been able to extract any bass from the doors, ever!

Edit
Unless I boost the bass boost and EQ all the way up, bass is non-existent.

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[JaySea20]

 

[SkizeR]

I personally wouldn't run 6.5's below 80Hz. But, that's just me. Have you considered Frog GS690's for your application? They were built for the job. Other options exist. These are just the first that came into mind.

Ge0

Or the new GS 8's that will be out in a couple weeks

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[JaySea20]

I have considered AF GS690's. I've just never been the guy that goes the easy route. That one's proven and it fits... lol! It makes too much sense... Same reason that I didnt just buy the tacotunes setup. I'm gonna have to think about this one for a bit. I might be slingin resin again this weekend.

-Jay

 

[Ge0]

I have considered AF GS690's. I've just never been the guy that goes the easy route. That one's proven and it fits... lol! It makes too much sense... Same reason that I didnt just buy the tacotunes setup. I'm gonna have to think about this one for a bit. I might be slingin resin again this weekend.

-Jay

Well, if that is the case:

8" midbass madness!! AD W800NEO, SW800, Audison AP8

Up for sale I have 1. 8 2 pairs of W800NEO 2. SW800 1 pair 3. 2 pairs of Audison AP8. Condition 1. BNIB 2. BNIB, one box was opened for inspection and photos 3. BNIB Price 1. $600 shipped 2. $700 shipped 3. $200 shipped Pricing is good, no lowballers please.

www.diymobileaudio.com

These are nasty little 8" drivers:

Zac has a few sets left. Or, you can wait for the Frogs SkiZer was mentioning.

Ge0

 

[Ge0]

Ok. In all seriousness. What would be a way to get my midbass right. I would like it to play between 60hz and probably 180 or so. If it means different drivers, then so be it. Do you think I can get away with 6.5's? I've never had great luck with midbass.

If you like the 6.5" form factor and only need to play up to 180Hz or so then you should consider the Peerless SLS6's. I have a few pair I'm not using. I was VERY impressed with these in my Dodge Durango (build log is here somewhere).

Ge0

 

[dumdum]

I wouldn’t be doing any midbass in doors I wanted to play to 60hz... not gonna happen with the typical nulls you get in every car door I’ve ever played with and likely why the rest of the spectrum will get louder and the nulls won’t as much so the new speakers will likely sound worse... if it’s left hand drive and auto why not build kick panels for the new drivers, the response will be way, way nicer...

 

[JaySea20]

I don't want 6.5's. that's why I bought 8". But these are going to be a tough fit. And like I said. They suck. Or I suck. Or something is wrong. Either way, not the sound I expected.

I have a feeling that it is the front and rear waves interacting through the holes I can't seal. I bet if I punch a hole in the door panel and actually have the front outside oh the door panel, they would sound better. I'm just nervous about that much modification.

 

[Ge0]

I don't want 6.5's. that's why I bought 8". But these are going to be a tough fit. And like I said. They suck. Or I suck. Or something is wrong. Either way, not the sound I expected.

I have a feeling that it is the front and rear waves interacting through the holes I can't seal. I bet if I punch a hole in the door panel and actually have the front outside oh the door panel, they would sound better. I'm just nervous about that much modification.

Look at the mounting depth on the AD W800Neo's. They are pretty damn shallow. Also, the Audison AP8's are very similar. Both are made for door IB duty.

Ge0

 

[JaySea20]

Look at the mounting depth on the AD W800Neo's. They are pretty damn shallow. Also, the Audison AP8's are very similar. Both are made for door IB duty.

Ge0

The neo's are too high for me. The AP8's are interesting. They would definitely fit.