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The neo's are too high for me. The AP8's are interesting. They would definitely fit.
ZAC has a set of AP8's on sale for a really good price. It's worth it to buy a set and just see if you like.

If you are on the fence about it I have a set I would let you evaluate if you paid for shipping both ways (maybe $40). No rush to get them back. I have 3 other sets I want to evaluate first.

Ge0
 
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Here is an old 8inch midbass comparison. The OP had the same issue you did with the Dayton installed IB in a door. I'd recommend the sls 8s if you can fit them.

 

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Midbass is definitely the most challenging to get right or even decent. In my very limited experience, the best luck I've had is with the peerless SLS 6. The reason? It's basically a subwoofer. (It's also not good at IB).

I could cross them at 30Hz for a lot of music. I would move the crossover up to 50 or 63 at times when it did struggle, but kept sneaking it back down to 30Hz. Power requirement isn't crazy, neither is it fragile.

I am leaning toward trying the SLS 8 as suggested above. I currently have kicks already, housing a 6.5 + tweeter, so I'm looking at midrange changes to put on the apillar so I can remove my kick and make a new one strictly for midbass.

I am starting to believe midbass doesn't belong in doors. Enclosures only. Enclosure mounted on door, sure. A case could be made for IB-designed midbass but how many of those exist and readily available for sale?

Edit: multiple edits

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 

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Midbass is definitely the most challenging to get right or even decent. In my very limited experience, the best luck I've had is with the peerless SLS 6. The reason? It's basically a subwoofer. (It's also not good at IB).

I could cross them at 30Hz for a lot of music. I would move the crossover up to 50 or 63 at times when it did struggle, but kept sneaking it back down to 30Hz. Power requirement isn't crazy, neither is it fragile.

I am leaning toward trying the SLS 8 as suggested above. I currently have kicks already, housing a 6.5 + tweeter, so I'm looking at midrange changes to put on the apillar so I can remove my kick and make a new one strictly for midbass.

I am starting to believe midbass doesn't belong in doors. Enclosures only. Enclosure mounted on door, sure. A case could be made for IB-designed midbass but how many of those exist and readily available for sale?

Edit: multiple edits

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
Even with an enclosure mounted on a door you will get phase dips, if you could measure a door mounted midbass and see the phase response you’d never put midbass in doors ever again! I will put my laptop on later and show you a comparison between door mounted midbass vs floor mounted midbass under the front edge of the seat... one looks like a picture perfect phase response with a few blips... one looks like something you’d never want ever in a car/room/anywhere...
 

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I was considering this mounting idea too, wasn't sure if it would be good or get in the way.

Would like to see, please do.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
As for getting in the way... unless I tuck my feet under the seats they don’t even come close... they are hybrid u69v2... I get good response upto 300hz and my 13cm mids on the dash play down to 100, so I cross between them at 200

and due to my kicks not being deep I get a better response from the under seat locatio

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the green trace shows a small phase blip in smaart at 350hz and a tiny blip at 210, but I can live with the 210 as it’s so small... in comparison the reading of one of our team cars with door mounted midbass rolls round to 90ish and then the phase goes square across the graph... as long as you get a straight line for a phase trace all is good... the door mounted isn’t... it’s straight until it just gets messed with by standing waves from down the car, you can drop the rear seats and make it slightly better but it won’t be a patch on mine
 

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You're right. But, there have been lots of people that rave about the performance of Daytons ( especially the RS180 ) in this application. What are they doing different than I am?

Also, do you have a recommendation for what would work well without breaking the bank?

- Jay
This is weird. I always thought the Daytons were raw driver favorites back when this forum used raw drivers? Many more used the RS 180 over the 225.
 

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This is weird. I always thought the Daytons were raw driver favorites back when this forum used raw drivers? Many more used the RS 180 over the 225.
I think folks just dont expect the smaller driver to play below 80hz. The expectation is different for a 8 inch driver.
 

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2007 Toyota Tundra Double Cab
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Discussion Starter #30
I wouldn’t be doing any midbass in doors I wanted to play to 60hz... not gonna happen with the typical nulls you get in every car door I’ve ever played with and likely why the rest of the spectrum will get louder and the nulls won’t as much so the new speakers will likely sound worse... if it’s left hand drive and auto why not build kick panels for the new drivers, the response will be way, way nicer...
I should have taken pictures. But, I placed the 8's in the floorboard. And even in a full size Tundra, it takes up 1/3 of the floor space. Too big. I would have to go with smaller drivers for kicks...

ZAC has a set of AP8's on sale for a really good price. It's worth it to buy a set and just see if you like.

If you are on the fence about it I have a set I would let you evaluate if you paid for shipping both ways (maybe $40). No rush to get them back. I have 3 other sets I want to evaluate first.

Ge0
I think im gonna go ahead and purchase a set. If I dont like them, Im sure I can re-purpose them.

Here is an old 8inch midbass comparison. The OP had the same issue you did with the Dayton installed IB in a door. I'd recommend the sls 8s if you can fit them.

That is right on par with what I experienced. But in an IB config, they were REALLY bad. I would hate it if I spent 20+ hours on door pods and they still sucked.

This is weird. I always thought the Daytons were raw driver favorites back when this forum used raw drivers? Many more used the RS 180 over the 225.
I had the same impression...
 

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Because those daytons were not designed for a car door (large sealed enclosure, pretty much IB). They were designed for small vented or small sealed enclosures. Its very rare that you'll find a raw driver/home audio midbass that works well in a car door.

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
This is a fact. I had 4 of those exact same mid bass drivers in an infinite baffle type of setup, and they never sounded very good. After a couple were heat damaged (from direct sun in a sealed up truck on a 110 degree day) I replaced them with some $12 closeout specials from Parts Express. Those things sound great 🙂 Still using them now.
 

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I should have taken pictures. But, I placed the 8's in the floorboard. And even in a full size Tundra, it takes up 1/3 of the floor space. Too big. I would have to go with smaller drivers for kicks...



I think im gonna go ahead and purchase a set. If I dont like them, Im sure I can re-purpose them.



That is right on par with what I experienced. But in an IB config, they were REALLY bad. I would hate it if I spent 20+ hours on door pods and they still sucked.



I had the same impression...
I cut into the metal cross bar so they fit further back as Emma states normal floor height should be maintained from the front edge of the seat to the pedals... and am getting some laser cut steel baffles made in 10mm steel to put strength back into the crossmember when welded in and effectively make a steel mounting for them to sit in and breathe through the floor and into the chassis rail
 

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2007 Toyota Tundra Double Cab
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Discussion Starter #33
Yeah, no. Not for me. I'm hesitant to cut off the bottom section of my window track... much less something like that. I think I wanna keep my speakers inside the vehicle. I'm not radical enough, YET, to start cutting through my floorboard.
 

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2007 Toyota Tundra Double Cab
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Discussion Starter #34
This is a fact. I had 4 of those exact same mid bass drivers in an infinite baffle type of setup, and they never sounded very good. After a couple were heat damaged (from direct sun in a sealed up truck on a 110 degree day) I replaced them with some $12 closeout specials from Parts Express. Those things sound great 🙂 Still using them now.
What are the ones that "sound great"??
 

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I was considering this mounting idea too, wasn't sure if it would be good or get in the way.

Would like to see, please do.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
So I posted above my floor mounted midbass phase graph... with all it’s straight lines and relatively smooth phase...

here is a hybrid audio L65v2 in a left (blue) and right (green) door measured on the drivers side (right hand drive) See what a typical door does to both side responses

to sum nicely you generally need both sides phase to be within 60 degrees of each other...

there is no phase adjustment or time alignment that could ever do a good job with this car installed as it is


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the dark pink trace is the two playing together, in my car I get 6db of summation all the way through the pass band of the midbass from 70-200hz.... in the doors we get 6db where the phase overlays closely... as for the rest you can see how bad it is with -ve db’s to 4db everywhere else... it’s very far from ideal!
 

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Interestingly I’ve just had another look at the data and I can get the sub timing a whole lot better with some unorthodox disance and phase settings...

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the orange line needs to be made further away distance wise as it’s way to early, more distance (Or more delay on the midbass) would line the orange line up, of it gets it parallel with the midbass phase traces the timing is on point... then you can adjust the phase to rotate the line up or down as a whole and get the two to overlay like the blue and green do from 40 to 60 as an example 👍🏼 It’s very revealing seeing phase information while tuning to get time and phase adjusted to perfection... but it also shows how wrong the tape can be due to phase characteristics of the car and the drivers involved which throw a massive curve ball into the mix...

I hope this helps people understand a little bit more about why timing and phase is way more complex than a tape measure if you wish to go to extra lengths to get stuff bang on...

I will add that phase generally doesn’t need to get touched between identical drivers but to match say midbass to midrange you then may need to adjust phase on one driver set or another as pairs so the identical speakers still match
 

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Take a look at the Stevens Audio MB8’s
 

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Thanks for the advice. Sounds like a great choice. But, I have been talking with Zac and I'm going all out. I'm getting a set of the AD w800neos
When and if I get a set of mid bass drivers for my front doors "I'm going all out" ..... They will be some kind of very sensitive, concert level 12"s, in large, sealed enclosures 😉 The more expensive part of that (than the MB drivers themselves) will be powering them..... Since most MB drivers like this are 8 ohm. Takes quite an amplifier to make 600-1000 wts RMS x 2, into 8 ohms.

And no. These are not "needed". They are "wanted" 😉
 
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