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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys, would anyone happen to have any FR graphs or wisdom of midbass drivers in treated doors vs. kicks?
I have some pretty nasty suck outs at 120hz on drivers side and 150 on the passengers side, along with my doors vibrating a ton and am trying to find a remedy. I have very long doors since it is a coupe and even though they dont rattle, i can feel them vibrating quite a bit. Even with full treatment and even a touch of bracing against the outer door skin. I cant help but feel like that is contributing to the suck outs along with just eating up energy and giving it back as distortion.
I was thinking and hoping that putting the MB in the kicks may solve the cancelation issues of the cars dimensions and maybe even add a bit from extra cabin gain. I havent been able to find any comparisons of the two when it comes to response though. I will only be running them from ~75hz - ~400hz.

Ill do some trimming in order to give the GB60s enough air space if need be. I just want to know if this may solve my issue before going too crazy.

Other option I was thinking about would be adding the midbass to the kicks and keeping the doors as well. then just aligning them with DSP to go the distributed route. I may still do that depending on feed back. The hold back for me there was buying another set of GB60s. I would end up going with more affordable diy drivers for the experiment, but cant imagine that mixing drivers playing the same band would be a good idea.

If anyone can help me out a bit, it would be much appreciated!
 

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A center console and proximity of speakers to the dash might be your issue. Try to set midbass drivers at different angle - a bit more aimed toward you ...
with kicks you will get more similar output from both sides with probably less issues with lobing and beaming. Depth of the soundstage might be better in kicks too
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
A center console and proximity of speakers to the dash might be your issue. Try to set midbass drivers at different angle - a bit more aimed toward you ...
with kicks you will get more similar output from both sides with probably less issues with lobing and beaming. Depth of the soundstage might be better in kicks too
Thanks for the response!
Thats what I was thinking as well, regarding the center console. I was hoping that tucking them into the corners would help mitigate that. If I am only playing the MB up to 400hz, would angling them help that much?
Hoping that tucking them into the corners would give me a sort of pseudo-horn loaded effect and increase the cabin gain, and hopefully kill those nulls as well.
I suppose the only real way to tell would be to make some mock up boxes and see what happens.
 

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Thanks for the response!
Thats what I was thinking as well, regarding the center console. I was hoping that tucking them into the corners would help mitigate that. If I am only playing the MB up to 400hz, would angling them help that much?
Hoping that tucking them into the corners would give me a sort of pseudo-horn loaded effect and increase the cabin gain, and hopefully kill those nulls as well.
I suppose the only real way to tell would be to make some mock up boxes and see what happens.
Cut a piece of plywood or hardboard (something stiff enough not to flex from the audio excitation) and lean it against the center console to change the angle of the boundary and see if it changes your suckout. The difference in the kicks would be entirely related to how you intend to handle the backwave... trying to create a sealed enclosure or run infinite baffle or some sort of vent up under the dash?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Cut a piece of plywood or hardboard (something stiff enough not to flex from the audio excitation) and lean it against the center console to change the angle of the boundary and see if it changes your suckout. The difference in the kicks would be entirely related to how you intend to handle the backwave... trying to create a sealed enclosure or run infinite baffle or some sort of vent up under the dash?
I was going to end up relocating the harnesses and doing a small blowthrough into the frame rail to give it a good amount of air space while being able to keep them as wide as possible. I have a small stickshift coupe so I also need to make sure I can get to the clutch easily. Also thinking of ways I can build a dead pedal back in as well.
The GB60s do seem to model quite well in a fairly small (.2cube) enclosure though.
Fantastic idea regarding the angled boundary. I did something similar by throwing a bunch of bags and stuff in the floor to see how the measurement changed, and it did help. It didn't even occur to me to just change the reflection surface like that though.
 
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