DiyMobileAudio.com Car Stereo Forum banner

1 - 20 of 33 Posts

·
Banned
Joined
·
2,895 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
So I built a pair of those door pods that are pretty common in the last models GMC and Chevy trucks.

I actually want to do away with these and install a pair of 6.5s per door. The problem is the plastic door cards in my truck are very prone to vibrations and rattles. Would cutting the inner door skin and mounting the speakers in the door benefit me? What are the pros and cons of having speakers mount behind the door panel as opposed to mounting them more on axis and exposed in the door panel?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
641 Posts
You won't get the same rigidity on the panel as you would behind it, which means less midbass output and accuracy of percussion sounds.

Been there, done that, paid the price and gone back. Sorry. :(
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
2,895 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
You won't get the same rigidity on the panel as you would behind it, which means less midbass output and accuracy of percussion sounds.

Been there, done that, paid the price and gone back. Sorry. :(
The fiberglass pods are pretty rigid. But it also prevents the door from being used as an enclosure. So you think having the speakers out and on axis does not out weigh the benefits of using a more rigid and sealed enlosure like a door cavity?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,775 Posts
What about tying in the fg enclosure, to the door cavity, combining the air space?

You could then have the benefits of being more on axis, larger air space, and ridged mounting.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
2,895 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
What about tying in the fg enclosure, to the door cavity, combining the air space?

You could then have the benefits of being more on axis, larger air space, and ridged mounting.
I'm not sure how I would do that while maintain the ability to remove my door card. How did you do yours?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,775 Posts
I originally intended to do duel 6.5's in the front door.... But didn't.

As of right now, I just have spacers that are 1.5'' deep. I cut out the the factory grill in the card. My plan is to fg new grills that will be press fit. But they aren't angled for on axis.

Similar to what your thinking of doing, if I went with the pairs, I'd glass up a baffle and mount to the door. It would open on the back side to tie in with the doors internal volume.
I was going to try and cut out the corresponding area of the card so it would be flush when mounted. Then I'd make a removable grill cover to tie the baffle into the card, and also prevent the card from vibrations.
I can see it in my head, but maybe not the best description. Lol
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
641 Posts
The fiberglass pods are pretty rigid. But it also prevents the door from being used as an enclosure. So you think having the speakers out and on axis does not out weigh the benefits of using a more rigid and sealed enlosure like a door cavity?
I've done both of these before so I pretty much know what it will sound like.

The setup you have now will most likely have increased upper bass punch, more detail, and even higher SPL. The downside is you won't have as full as sound as you would have mounted to the door, and rigidity wise you won't get that "skin" of the drum sound.

It took me *5* years to learn what I was missing that a lot of people have taken for granted. It's not the end of the world but it is something.

I suggest you listen to your setup and evaluate if you like what you have before ditching it since you already put it in the effort. Overall it's not a sound that I like, but some may prefer it. I equated it to using a higher crossover point on your midbass (e.g. 100 hz vs. 60)...if you prefer that then a good chance you will like this.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
2,895 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
I've done both of these before so I pretty much know what it will sound like.

The setup you have now will most likely have increased upper bass punch, more detail, and even higher SPL. The downside is you won't have as full as sound as you would have mounted to the door, and rigidity wise you won't get that "skin" of the drum sound.

It took me *5* years to learn what I was missing that a lot of people have taken for granted. It's not the end of the world but it is something.

I suggest you listen to your setup and evaluate if you like what you have before ditching it since you already put it in the effort. Overall it's not a sound that I like, but some may prefer it. I equated it to using a higher crossover point on your midbass (e.g. 100 hz vs. 60)...if you prefer that then a good chance you will like this.
What I want is more detail and accuracy in the lower end (around 80hz.) and more impact on the attack in the midbass range. I hear alot vibrations transferring through my door panel. I really hate the way the vibrations sound but I also take it that for every vibration transferred to the mounting structure, that is more output and detail being robbed from the speaker itself. Is this correct?

I guess I'm just worried that if I mount the speakers in the door, behind the panel, that it might make them sound muffled.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
503 Posts
My 2 cents? Not really worth much:)
Them door cards are not rare.
Find a set to play with.
Cut them out for your pod thingys.
Mount the pod to the door frame
put the cut card over it.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
2,895 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
My 2 cents? Not really worth much:)
Them door cards are not rare.
Find a set to play with.
Cut them out for your pod thingys.
Mount the pod to the door frame
put the cut card over it.
I had considered that. But the problem is the way the card mounts up. You have to put it in place then push it down about 1" for the hooks to take hold in the skin. So it would be difficult to get it to fit flush around the pods. I don't think I'm skilled enough to make that look good.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,775 Posts
Maybe cut the extra card to fit, then attach the fg pods to the card. Temporarily attach the pod to see if it will work. If it does, then your can finish it nice with fg and filler.

Use the speaker opening to bolt the pod to the door from the inside... Kinda best of both worlds.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
2,895 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Maybe cut the extra card to fit, then attach the fg pods to the card. Temporarily attach the pod to see if it will work. If it does, then your can finish it nice with fg and filler.

Use the speaker opening to bolt the pod to the door from the inside... Kinda best of both worlds.
Now that's not a bad idea! It would help make the door card more rigid as well.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,124 Posts
What's a few inches when you have T/A?
The door panel is probably 14 inches directly to the left of your left ear. That is the limit of your left stage. Two inches would make the stage 14% wider on the left side. That may or may not be important to you, that is up to you. You can use time alignment to correct distance issues with different speakers, but not to make the stage wider.

I never thought stage width would be important to me, but once I got my system sounding really good, I started looking at ways to make the stage wider.

Not to mention behind the panel is a lot more stealthy.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
2,895 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
The door panel is probably 14 inches directly to the left of your left ear. That is the limit of your left stage. Two inches would make the stage 14% wider on the left side. That may or may not be important to you, that is up to you. You can use time alignment to correct distance issues with different speakers, but not to make the stage wider.

I never thought stage width would be important to me, but once I got my system sounding really good, I started looking at ways to make the stage wider.

Not to mention behind the panel is a lot more stealthy.
Well you use T/A to delay the left speaker to match the right. So the extra two inches would really only apply to the right speaker where it only equates to more like only 4% additional width.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,124 Posts
Well you use T/A to delay the left speaker to match the right. So the extra two inches would really only apply to the right speaker where it only equates to more like only 4% additional width.
That is how TA works, but again it has nothing to do with stage width. It can only put you in the center of the stage, nothing more. The only way that is available to most people to make their stage wider is to put the speakers further apart. As one guy said 'you want a bigger stage, get a wider car'.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,775 Posts
Were you satisfied with your stage width before? Because if anything, tying the pod into the door, they won't have to be as far inside the cabin.
I'm assuming your looking at making a new pod for the revamp right? If you use your current pod it won't change your width, and if you were satisfied, then who cares.

But if your making new pods, you won't need as much depth because your also using the volume of the door. I know you stated you wanted more detail, and punch from your mb's... Is width also a concern?
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
2,895 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
Were you satisfied with your stage width before? Because if anything, tying the pod into the door, they won't have to be as far inside the cabin.
I'm assuming your looking at making a new pod for the revamp right? If you use your current pod it won't change your width, and if you were satisfied, then who cares.

But if your making new pods, you won't need as much depth because your also using the volume of the door. I know you stated you wanted more detail, and punch from your mb's... Is width also a concern?
Couldn't say. I just bought my DSP a few weeks ago and haven't hooked it up yet. So this will be my first time having any actual staging.
 
1 - 20 of 33 Posts
Top