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I got an unbalanced version to use with my LC8.
Nice. Ive read so much about power supply and balanced vs. unbalanced, it is all starting to run together. I forgot that there was the RevA and RevB. RevA only being ideal for sources that dont have a volume control. So that would leave me with the RevB which is unbalanced and would fit my setup. I'm anxious to hear about what people think about the miniDC isolator. It seems it knocked out 2 problems at once and really simplified everything. I believe I'm about to go ahead and grab this thing.
 

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I've heard of people getting them in under two weeks (They ship from Hong Kong). I am just about there and no MiniDSP yet. Do you mind elaborating on "weird results"?
When I go to look at my order status, it only says "confirmed". You would think it would say shipped if that were the case...
 

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I've not searched the entire thread, I was wondering I'f they could come up with software to control it with iPhone or droid
 

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The problem with mobile device support is actually connecting to the minidsp unit itself. There's a whole set of issues to address there before one even gets into the application side.
 

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It would be simple to design and sell another card that hooked up via the mini-usb port and sell a phone app that allows control of the unit.

Well... Not simple for me. But simple enough for the guys that designed the processor I'm sure.
 

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It would be simple to design and sell another card that hooked up via the mini-usb port and sell a phone app that allows control of the unit.

Well... Not simple for me. But simple enough for the guys that designed the processor I'm sure.
Niche market, not a lot of overall volume for that. (imho)
 

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Have they done anything about the low-voltage pre-outs yet? Thats really the only thing I dislike about mine, I cannot get nearly the output, even turning up the gains, as I can by just connecting my HU directly to the amps. FWIW, I'm used to having HU's with 5-8V preouts.
 

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Nice. Ive read so much about power supply and balanced vs. unbalanced, it is all starting to run together. I forgot that there was the RevA and RevB. RevA only being ideal for sources that dont have a volume control. So that would leave me with the RevB which is unbalanced and would fit my setup. I'm anxious to hear about what people think about the miniDC isolator. It seems it knocked out 2 problems at once and really simplified everything. I believe I'm about to go ahead and grab this thing.
I received mine, in just about one week. :D
 

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Just ordered a 2x4 today. Going to use it to lowpass my mids at 8k and highpass my tweeters at 8k.

Audible Physics XR3m 3.5" midrange - 300-8k

Morel MT23 tweeters - 8k and up...

My MS8 will highpass the mids at 300 so this should work out. I'm using the MiniDSP between my mids and tweets so I can free up an extra set of channels for rear fill in the Bimmer. Looking forward to getting mine. Now to make sure I get the right plugin. :)
 

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Ok, I've been following this thread because I am wanting to add this to my car for processing. I am unsure on whether I should get the balanced or unbanced version. Here is how my setup will be

08 Infiniti G35 Bose/Navi HU

Audio Control Lc2i Loc- spliced into the balanced signals from the HU before the factory amp. This unit has separate preamp controls for front stage and sub ranging from 1.8-9.5vrms

2x Arc Audio FD2200 to biamp my 2way front stage. These amps have a 2.5 volt RMS max input stage each.

Would it be advisable to go with the unbalanced version miniDSP, and use the RCA preouts from the Audiocontrol to the miniDSP? With the input maximums on the Arc amps being 2.5, I wouldnt need a line driver would I?
Do the Arc FD2200 do differential balanced input? If not, why not get the balanced miniDSP, and throw the AC LC2i out completely. Run straight from the OEM balanced into the miniDSP->Arc amp.

I'm actually trying to figure out what I want to do as well, with a '06 G35 with Bose. Can't decide if I want to keep the sub separate, or step up $100+ more and run everything through the miniDSP, which I think would leave me a spare two channels for rear-mounted midbasses ;)
 

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Do the Arc FD2200 do differential balanced input? If not, why not get the balanced miniDSP, and throw the AC LC2i out completely. Run straight from the OEM balanced into the miniDSP->Arc amp.

I'm actually trying to figure out what I want to do as well, with a '06 G35 with Bose. Can't decide if I want to keep the sub separate, or step up $100+ more and run everything through the miniDSP, which I think would leave me a spare two channels for rear-mounted midbasses ;)
Yeah, the Arc amps do have differential balanced inputs, but I also have a sub amp that will be in the system that does not have those inputs. I should have included that with my prior post. The LC2i has full range outs and sub out outputs. This unit supposedly keeps the bass from lowering in output as you increase the volume on your factory stereo. I will be wiring everything up this week (-) the miniDSP because I havent ordered it yet. We'll see how it goes.
 

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Yeah, the Arc amps do have differential balanced inputs, but I also have a sub amp that will be in the system that does not have those inputs. I should have included that with my prior post. The LC2i has full range outs and sub out outputs. This unit supposedly keeps the bass from lowering in output as you increase the volume on your factory stereo. I will be wiring everything up this week (-) the miniDSP because I havent ordered it yet. We'll see how it goes.
Ooooh, adjustable woofer-saving tuning from the OEM headunit? That is very interesting, I'm hoping I don't have to combat that same technique in the G35. At any rate, I will be very closely following your progress specifically, so keep us updated :D ;)
 

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I'm really not good at these; but would really want to try out the minidsp but I've to ensure my environment do allow noise-free installation with minimal changes. Since my car has a cigarette jack at the trunk.

Can I do so?
- buy a miniDSP + miniDC isolator
- dismantle the cigarette jack two bare wires would expose (1 should be power; the other should be ground)
- connect the two bare wires into miniDC isolator + & - terminal
- Remove the existing amp remote-on wire and terminate it into the miniDC isolator remote-in
- get a new wire between the miniDC isolator remote-out to the amplifier remote-in
- from the miniDC isolator output; connect the + & - to the miniDSP for power & ground

I'd like to know if I'm doing it this way, is it the right way? As I do not have a power distribution block at the trunk, and pulling a power from battery all the way to the trunk would means dismantling of seats and stuff which I really wanna avoid. Would this installation also mean that the miniDSP would only turn on if my HU switch-on? and wouldn't drain the battery at all time like using a USB jack from car?

Would appreciate if someone can shed some lights.
 

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I'm really not good at these; but would really want to try out the minidsp but I've to ensure my environment do allow noise-free installation with minimal changes. Since my car has a cigarette jack at the trunk.

Can I do so?
- buy a miniDSP + miniDC isolator
- dismantle the cigarette jack two bare wires would expose (1 should be power; the other should be ground)
- connect the two bare wires into miniDC isolator + & - terminal
- Remove the existing amp remote-on wire and terminate it into the miniDC isolator remote-in
- get a new wire between the miniDC isolator remote-out to the amplifier remote-in
- from the miniDC isolator output; connect the + & - to the miniDSP for power & ground

I'd like to know if I'm doing it this way, is it the right way? As I do not have a power distribution block at the trunk, and pulling a power from battery all the way to the trunk would means dismantling of seats and stuff which I really wanna avoid. Would this installation also mean that the miniDSP would only turn on if my HU switch-on? and wouldn't drain the battery at all time like using a USB jack from car?

Would appreciate if someone can shed some lights.
It sounds like you already have amps in the trunk? Why not just share that power/ground? You mention not having a distribution block, but what you are doing by dismantling the cigarette outlet sounds more complicated than just buying a <$5 power distribution solution.

The DSP will be powered whenever your current amps are powered if you are re-using the same remote lead...
 

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yea I've an amp already in the trunk, the reason is the power/ground came through a tight place and there isn't any spare I can workout unless I dismantle the trunk amplifier and dismantle the amplifier holder to get to the rolled up power cable and readjust to have the extra length.

The cigarette outlet is located at the side of the trunk which seems an easier solution :); just wanna know whether using power from the cigarette jack to the miniDC isolator is fine; and I thought by re-using the current remote-on wire from the HU to the miniDC isolator is good as it'll eliminate the turn-on/off pops; as I read from the miniDC isolator it has a 3 sec delay relay built-in.

Hope i got my question & comments right; thanks for your comment mate.
 

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Alright, so bear with me, I'm a new guy.

I am doing an active 3 way system (2 tweets, 2 midrange, 2 midbass, 1 svc sub). I have 3 preouts from my h/u, 4v each. 3 amps, 1 - 4 channel, 1 - 2 channel, 1 - mono.

Is it better to use all the preouts? Do I need 3 of the 2x4 dsps? Or should I go for two of the 2x4s? Or one 2x8?

If the preouts are getting split into multiple channels, does it split the voltage accordingly?

Sorry its a lot of questions, their FAQ page seems to be down.

Thanks!
 

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Either two 2x4s or one 2x8 will do.
If you have a four channel amp that can bandpass at least two of it's channels you could possibly work your setup off of one 2x4.
Alright, thanks. Amps aren't quite that cool... I could probably bandpass with lpf from hu and hpf from amp but I'd rather just process all the signals.

Would it be better to go with two 2x4 or one 2x8? Or no difference?
 
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