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Discussion Starter · #61 · (Edited)
just reposting my question here... will this guide need a revision due to any method changes in the newest Dirac release?
Yea, it would need changes to the portion about setting the target curve. The current guide still holds true since it has a (still applicable) step for uploading your own custom curve, so that can still be fully used.

The only change that could be made is to take advantage of the new default curve function, which would simplify the guide a bit (i.e. no need to upload your own custom curve now). I'm hoping to try out the new default curve UX this weekend, and I've already been in touch with the other contributors on the Guide, so hoping to modify the guide some time next week.
 

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Yea, it would need changes to the portion about setting the target curve. The current guide still holds true since it has a (still applicable) step for uploading your own custom curve, so that can still be fully used.

The only change that could be made is to take advantage of the new default curve function, which would simplify the guide a bit (i.e. no need to upload your own custom curve now). I'm hoping to try out the new default curve UX this weekend, and I've already been in touch with the other contributors on the Guide, so hoping to modify the guide some time next week.
So far, I've tried the new curve functions. While they're good, they still leave some issues. Using the custom curve either leaves my car with too much mid-bas, or too little sub bass. Granted, I have a tiny car (NC Miata), but I need a little bit different blend to get it to work for my car. The upper range roll off is nice.

I've still needed to use custom curves, but the "defaults" are now very usable as starting points. Given that in a home environment, you don't need the large bass boost, it makes sense how they did their curve. In a car (or at least mine), I need extra below 60Hz to compensate for cabin size, and the roll off to 200Hz has too much mid-bass.

I'd wager in a larger cabin, this is less pronounced, of an effect, but we'll have to wait until more folks try this out and report back.

EDIT:
Just looked up, so my Miata is ~5 feet wide, and definitely shorter than that in length of cabin, as trunk is completely isolated. This means my cabin gain starts around 100Hz, vs a "normal" car which has major cabin gain between 40-60Hz (8-12 ft length of cabin).
 

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Discussion Starter · #63 ·
So far, I've tried the new curve functions. While they're good, they still leave some issues. Using the custom curve either leaves my car with too much mid-bas, or too little sub bass. Granted, I have a tiny car (NC Miata), but I need a little bit different blend to get it to work for my car. The upper range roll off is nice.

I've still needed to use custom curves, but the "defaults" are now very usable as starting points. Given that in a home environment, you don't need the large bass boost, it makes sense how they did their curve. In a car (or at least mine), I need extra below 60Hz to compensate for cabin size, and the roll off to 200Hz has too much mid-bass.

I'd wager in a larger cabin, this is less pronounced, of an effect, but we'll have to wait until more folks try this out and report back.

EDIT:
Just looked up, so my Miata is ~5 feet wide, and definitely shorter than that in length of cabin, as trunk is completely isolated. This means my cabin gain starts around 100Hz, vs a "normal" car which has major cabin gain between 40-60Hz (8-12 ft length of cabin).
I didn't get around to testing the new default curve this past weekend, but curious to see. I have a 2dr Jeep, which has a small cabin as well. Perhaps not as small as yours, but if you couple this with my preference towards a lot of sub bass, I suspect I'll have similar issues to you. My current target curve (for daily listening, not competitions) has about an 18dB difference between highest sub bass level and lowest high end level. And the new Dirac default curve allows up to 15dB difference
 

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The default target ive tried several times now
It works really well….

On my CM-10 mic it sounds so good. It sounds like it fits the room and the responce actually sounds like I would expect from the target. The CM-10 I believe gives Dirac that last bit that makes it what I believe it was always meant to be. Especially in tonality! Hands down cm-10 wins (big time)


on the umik1 it has too much midbass and is muddy imo (ever so barely I might add)

on my UMM6 same thing as umik1 except the highs are brighter a little so it makes up for what sounds muddy to me

the umik1 and UMM6 on a perfectly flat target sound proper and sound good….

I’ve tried this on 2, 8x12s, a flex, and a ddrc22
All same results, all different “rooms”
The flex is in a big room and it also shared the same attributes as the others that were in car.

ive ordered a umik2. We will see how it measures.
 

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Discussion Starter · #65 ·
The default target ive tried several times now
It works really well….

On my CM-10 mic it sounds so good. It sounds like it fits the room and the responce actually sounds like I would expect from the target. The CM-10 I believe gives Dirac that last bit that makes it what I believe it was always meant to be. Especially in tonality! Hands down cm-10 wins (big time)


on the umik1 it has too much midbass and is muddy imo (ever so barely I might add)

on my UMM6 same thing as umik1 except the highs are brighter a little so it makes up for what sounds muddy to me

the umik1 and UMM6 on a perfectly flat target sound proper and sound good….

I’ve tried this on 2, 8x12s, a flex, and a ddrc22
All same results, all different “rooms”
The flex is in a big room and it also shared the same attributes as the others that were in car.

ive ordered a umik2. We will see how it measures.
Let me know how the UMIK-2 compares to the CM-10 with Dirac measurements. I've currently been using a UMIK-2.
 

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Discussion Starter · #67 ·
@Anu2g - did you ever use a UMIK-1? If so, any comments on it vs. the UMIK-2 in terms of tuning results?

@oabeieo - how are you connecting the CM-10 to your PC?
Yea, I started with the UMIK-1. I wouldn't be able to give you a good comparison because I had learned a lot more about how to use this DSP and tuning in general in parallel with switching mics, so it's hard for me to say whether that increased knowledge or mic change made the difference in making my tune sound better. I would lean toward the former. It wasn't a scientific comparison.
 
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@Anu2g - did you ever use a UMIK-1? If so, any comments on it vs. the UMIK-2 in terms of tuning results?

@oabeieo - how are you connecting the CM-10 to your PC?
with a tascam us-366
But my Roland just showed up… super excited.

i wouldn’t mess with the tascam, it’s junk imo

this is the hotness, and an earthworks mic (oh anu2g I’m so jel)

Roland Octa Capture
 

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Discussion Starter · #72 · (Edited)
Mind posting up your curve?
Again, this is just my personal listening preference / daily curve, however this isn't the same curve I'd run for demos. Also I should note that this is in a 2-dr Wrangler, i.e. my cabin is pretty tiny.

Rectangle Slope Font Line Parallel
 

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Hey folks,

After learning so much from various forum members, scouring through (and contributing on) many threads, and being probed by my peers (and superiors) to document the process, I have written a simple tuning guide for folks wanting to use Dirac Live via the MiniDSP C-DSP 8x12 DL.

It is primarily composed of ideas developed/curated by DIYMA members Truthunter and oabeieo, with revision assistance from bertholomey, naiku, and squiers007.

I hope you all find it useful, and if you have any questions or feedback, please drop a reply here, and I'll amend the doc accordingly.

I'm sharing it here as a google doc, that way anyone viewing it will always be looking at the latest revision:
MiniDSP C-DSP 8x12 DL (Dirac Live): Quick Tuning Guide

Thanks, and enjoy!

PS: These two threads contain a lot of the background that went into writing this guide:
Dirac tips and tricks
MiniDSP C-DSP 8x12 with Dirac Live
Wow man I can't thank all of you guys enough. Amazing!!!! I have the C-DSP 8x12DL installed and I'll absolutely be using this guide.
 

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Wow man I can't thank all of you guys enough. Amazing!!!! I have the C-DSP 8x12DL installed and I'll absolutely be using this guide.
ive heard rumors of tonal issues with Dirac
Remember it’s false

Once you get the hang of it and find your target you will never go back to standard dsp
 

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Hmm. So if we wanted to add a second sub up front on a separate channel then would we then set bass management to feed Dirac 7 and Dirac 8, and then use Dirac 7 for the rear sub and Dirac 8 for the front sub?
 

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Hmm. So if we wanted to add a second sub up front on a separate channel then would we set bass management to feed channel 7 and channel 8, and then use channel 7 for the rear sub and channel 8 for the front sub?
No you should still have an open Dirac channel. 1/2- tweets, 3/4 - mids, 5/6 - midbass, 7/8 - 2 subs (if they need different TA settings). If you only have 1 sub or they are co-located then you only need to use a single Dirac channel (7). Hope thst helps.

Sent from my Pixel 4 using Tapatalk
 

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No you should still have an open Dirac channel. 1/2- tweets, 3/4 - mids, 5/6 - midbass, 7/8 - 2 subs (if they need different TA settings). If you only have 1 sub or they are co-located then you only need to use a single Dirac channel (7). Hope thst helps.

Sent from my Pixel 4 using Tapatalk
I edited my post after thinking it through a little and I think we're saying the same thing now.
 

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Yeah you can do Dirac 7 and 8 on separate subs and still use BM as a source feed

you’ll just have to use a y cord for the amps

you have 2 bass amps I presume
Perfect. Yes 4 channels on 2 amps each bridged to mono, so I'll need the Y cables.
 
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