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What do you mean ajust levels when start car?



Like the output sliders move on there own?







Check make sure jumpers internal are in place and make sure your remote power setting / switch are correct to power input .





Idk


Pretty much. On the export page, I’ll set the output to -5, save, turn the vehicle off. When I start the vehicle again, there will be very little output, so I open Dirac and go to the export page and the output slider will be at -25.


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Pretty much. On the export page, I’ll set the output to -5, save, turn the vehicle off. When I start the vehicle again, there will be very little output, so I open Dirac and go to the export page and the output slider will be at -25.


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The output “master” in Dirac is also the master volume in plug in
(At least on the ddrc24 it is I can remember about the Cdsp)

So when you connect to dsp
In the upper right hand corner of the main dsp screen
(Where bass management and levels and mixer)
Anyway the upper right hand screen shows where your volume is set to

You can change it with 1. The master at output of Dirac screen
2. Through the volume control (if programmed at a master volume)
3. IR remote
4. Selecting the # and manually entering the desired volume in 10key

So it sounds like it’s booting up with the volume down
Which isn’t a big issue if you have a volume but nevertheless it should keep where it was at. You should turn up the master volume in plug in to max and than hit “save configuration “ to either sd or computer.

Your saving the configuration associated with the Dirac bank you have loaded I’m sure also? If you main tune is on configuration one, when you log into Dirac to “ajust the master. Your booted into that configuration.

If you “save” the Dirac project, that may not save the volume setting. That saves the measurements and the target together. So when you load that project whatever target you have saved with that project comes back so you can pick up where you left off. You can also save targets independently from measurements as a target file.

The master output I would put to “max” and than open the plug in and save configuration. The configuration is what saves “volumes” and that kind of things.

If your using it at -5 your throwing away output gain. So keep that in mind.
The Cdsp has good amount of output gain but 5db is a lot lot of wasted gain.

If your using 5vrms input or more I would consider using the high level in setting and attenuate the signal that way instead of in the plug in. If your input is between 4-5vrms than using the -5setting can help idiot proof your system if you have ppl that drive the car that may abuse your system, but if it were my car I wouldn’t even think about using -5db at the output. (If you have upstream volume) of your using the volume control in dsp than it should be a non issue.


Hope that helps some.


Edit

This is what I would do

Refresh dsp and start a new configuration. It sounds like the configuration is corrupt (can happen from time to time) don’t load the saved configuration into that slot as it’s probably corrupt. Just copy all your settings into new configuration, than go to Dirac side and take new measurements with all volumes to max.


Than save the configuration in plugin. It should not change the volume from where it was last set.

If you have some of the output sliders on channels turned down in your Dirac outputs when taking measurements that is associated with input gain. That should save also to each configuration not globally unless you load those measurements into each bank.

The “master” is the volume on dsp (one in the same)



When starting measurements and setting levels in Dirac it can behave kinda wierd when you get to the plug in side , when jumping from configuration to configuration. In the Dirac levels for each channel max those out! And use the master only as setting level for the measurements, after measurements are done max it out!

If you need to turn down channels before doing measurements do it in the output on the plugin before going to Dirac, make it so you can max out all the Dirac side levels etc. that will 1.give you more gain, 2. Keep the volumes working right between configurations and also between the two platforms.

Make any level changes beforehand of running Dirac in each output bank on each configuration before taking measurements.

Whatever configuration your currently on when you open Dirac will be the configuration that it is using to set those levels , just make them all the same on all 4 configurations. Meaning if you have output levels changed and eq work done in one configuration than run Dirac and load that filter into other banks the other banks have to have the same dsp settings as the configuration that you were on when you took the measurements, otherwise new measurements have to be taken for each configuration


I’ve tried using the Dirac side volumes and have had some goofy behavior between configurations.
 

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I’ve reset the dsp, tried your suggestions, plus everything I can think of and the problem persists.

I have contacted the Dev team and sent the files to them to look over. Hopefully they have an answer because I can’t take another week of this.


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I’ve reset the dsp, tried your suggestions, plus everything I can think of and the problem persists.

I have contacted the Dev team and sent the files to them to look over. Hopefully they have an answer because I can’t take another week of this.


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Okay yeah if that didn’t work something wrong.

Don’t be discouraged they’ll get it working right
 

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I have two cdspDL units
And I prefer the ddrc in front of my dsps

It’s the same thing but it’s works beautifully.

So no worries you won’t miss anything
Could you elaborate on the setup with a ddrc upstream of a DSP?

I'm weighing up tacking on a ddrc24 to my antique c-dsp 6x8. $400 is a lot less than $900, but disappointment is priceless.


Nice review tho, bikinpunk. I just wish I didn't read it, or ever look into what Dirac was :laugh:
 

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Could you elaborate on the setup with a ddrc upstream of a DSP?

I'm weighing up tacking on a ddrc24 to my antique c-dsp 6x8. $400 is a lot less than $900, but disappointment is priceless.


Nice review tho, bikinpunk. I just wish I didn't read it, or ever look into what Dirac was :laugh:

Yeah I should make a whole new thread about it.


Don’t want to sidetrack this. This is such a good review don’t want to cause too much confusion.

I’ll post it in the technical forums
 

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Hillbilly
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So, I tried a tune like this with simply L/R with the subwoofer mixed in, on this tune I am not using bass management. The results are good, on previous tunes I always found the sub-bass lacking, but this way it is not lacking at all and (to my ears at least) is blending really nicely with the mid-bass and is now right up on the dash. If you have time and a spare preset it's well worth a try of just L/R.

My other favorite tune I am running has the subwoofer separate, but on this particular tune the subwoofer level is a touch too low for my preference. With almost all of my previous tunes I found the subwoofer level lower than I would like. I need to do some more back to back comparisons between the two to determine which I really prefer though.
I had better luck combining the sub in to channels left and right and running DL in 2 channel mode; not 3 channel. But, YMMV.
I seem to remember reading about more people with output or sub output issues when using more than 2 DIRAC channels. It seems like the software works better with a 2-channel tune (L/R) with the sub output getting 50%L and 50%R.
So I've been running my preset 2 with the subs combined into the front channels... only 2 front channels L+R with the rear fill L+R. I have to admit it sounds better. It's not drastic, but it's subjectively noticeable to me. I notice more output particularly in the midbass area. It no doubt does a better job of blending the sub with the midbass.

I still had to adjust the delay on my subs (using the 80Hz tone and inverting the phase) to get them sounding more up front, yet on some songs, I can still sense they are in the rear. I'm not sure if it's perception simply because I know they are back there, or what might be going on. I don't think it's localization, but it seems like it's on songs with lower bass output, which certainly shouldn't be localized. It would make more sense if it were in that 80Hz range, but kick drum in the 50-60Hz range and everything above there is up front... it's the lower notes that seem to be a bit localized. I may try a 60Hz xover, but I don't think these HAT shallow mount 6x9's can handle that much output at the 60Hz mark. This is where I almost wish I could get 8's in my front door.

Still loving the sound with the C-DSP and Dirac Live.

I can't wait to get version 2. I finally got around to using version 2 on my home audio system this past weekend and it is unbelievable. When I thought it couldn't get any better... wow! If it improves my truck like it improved my home audio... whoa Nelly!
 

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Hi! Can anyone tell me how to do predirac individual speaker eq with rew in 2 way active Front + Sub. Do you measure drivers in car at listening position or near speaker?


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Hillbilly
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I measured mine nearfield at the center of the speaker cone within a couple of inches to make sure the enclosure was not affecting the driver with any serious peaks. Nothing was abnormally bad. Then I measured from my drivers seat head area and fixed a few peaks with parametric eq. Then I ran DL.
 

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So one thing I would like to bring up , and I think it’s worth mentioning in this thread,;

So if anyone has done a measurement session and end up with some parts of the stage moving around I would like to maybe consider some horn loading aspects.

Dirac should have excellent placement on staging and imaging.

If your experiencing some songs have let’s say a solid center and some songs have parts that the center is diffused of have too loud frequency content on one side try using some diffusing material or absorbing material (if possible) around the area your hearing.


Here’s a test that should help

Find a track that the stage moves (and make sure it’s not just a cheap recording) validate it on a home system or something.

Run you DLCT and don’t change anything as far as post tuning
Maybe just use the auto target for this also


Step one , start muting pairs of speakers one at a time and listen for that problem to disappear. (Find the speaker pair that’s causing the issue)

Step two leave all speakers muted except the offending pair , listen and moderate (not blasted loud) volumes to that pair
Listen for what frequencies are moving around (my guess is a narrow high Q band somewhere between 500hz-1.6khz )
Listen carefully not for stage placement but listen for a reflection. Or listen for a echo that makes the sound louder like off a console or the bottom of dash (glove box area or lower underdash)

If you hear a frequency loading or horn loading or reflection on one side try getting an absorber and place it on different spots of the plastics. (It May not be where your hearing it come from as it’s angular) so try putting a towel or a foam pad on different plastics and hard surfaces.

You might find a small (meaning under 12”) could be a 4” square piece that a 2” foam pad completely fixes that issue all together, and here’s the key from your seat you’ll hear things different than from other spots

There may be just one simple reflection that is ruining your stage where turning down that speaker may be ruining your calibration, but turning down that speaker seems the only way. Or adding or subtracting delay to try to move it into place (which may fix that problem but cause other issues everywhere else)

Hope this helps someone. It helped me I was having a big reflection on my under dash plastic right under my steering wheel, I put a small piece of black acoustic foam (3”x4”) and stage is solved, for me it was at 1340hz pulling my left side to the left.
 

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Thanks oabeieo for your Post! I have exactly the same Problem, except my stage tends to pull on the right side. In some songs it is spot on, on others not. I noticed that it is more diffuse on female vocals.
I did my setup exactly as ErinH described and I also dindt do any predirac driver correction. Now i am trying to do my setup with predirac driver correction, to see if that will sort some things out. Because i find the sound that i have right now a bit harsh and too bright on the horns. Anyway tweeter und sub was easy to equalize, but i am having real trouble with woofers.
I need some help about where to set target line and what to cut? Should i boost some dips?
Here are two images withe woofers R/L measured with rew in listeners sweet spot


I hope you can help me with some advice
 

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Thanks oabeieo for your Post! I have exactly the same Problem, except my stage tends to pull on the right side. In some songs it is spot on, on others not. I noticed that it is more diffuse on female vocals.

I did my setup exactly as ErinH described and I also dindt do any predirac driver correction. Now i am trying to do my setup with predirac driver correction, to see if that will sort some things out. Because i find the sound that i have right now a bit harsh and too bright on the horns. Anyway tweeter und sub was easy to equalize, but i am having real trouble with woofers.

I need some help about where to set target line and what to cut? Should i boost some dips?

Here are two images withe woofers R/L measured with rew in listeners sweet spot





I hope you can help me with some advice
Ive never seen responses that bad before.

You should start a separate thread cuz this will go off topic.

Car?
Pics of install?
Speakers you're using?

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Thanks oabeieo for your Post! I have exactly the same Problem, except my stage tends to pull on the right side. In some songs it is spot on, on others not. I noticed that it is more diffuse on female vocals.
I did my setup exactly as ErinH described and I also dindt do any predirac driver correction. Now i am trying to do my setup with predirac driver correction, to see if that will sort some things out. Because i find the sound that i have right now a bit harsh and too bright on the horns. Anyway tweeter und sub was easy to equalize, but i am having real trouble with woofers.
I need some help about where to set target line and what to cut? Should i boost some dips?
Here are two images withe woofers R/L measured with rew in listeners sweet spot


I hope you can help me with some advice
Are those single point measurements or averaged?
 

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Thanks oabeieo for your Post! I have exactly the same Problem, except my stage tends to pull on the right side. In some songs it is spot on, on others not. I noticed that it is more diffuse on female vocals.
I did my setup exactly as ErinH described and I also dindt do any predirac driver correction. Now i am trying to do my setup with predirac driver correction, to see if that will sort some things out. Because i find the sound that i have right now a bit harsh and too bright on the horns. Anyway tweeter und sub was easy to equalize, but i am having real trouble with woofers.
I need some help about where to set target line and what to cut? Should i boost some dips?
Here are two images withe woofers R/L measured with rew in listeners sweet spot


I hope you can help me with some advice


Thanks kalvins!

Jsconey2 has a good point

Yes let’s help you here
Definitely don’t want to clutter discussion about the platform with help/support

Here’s a help thread

https://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/technical-advanced-car-audio-discussion/418115-minidsp-cdsp-dl-8x12-dirac-live-upgrade-new-release-help-8.html#post5711765


Lots of us can help out!

And that response isn’t that bad, looks like a typical comb-filter. Very workable
You have excellent speakers , I use horns also and so does jsconey2, and have excellent results,

Horns need a pretune, standard speakers really don’t, the only reason I pretune my horns is to fit the response in the 10db window Dirac wants in measurements
Otherwise I would not pretune my horns.


When you pretune with eq before Dirac it can change the way Dirac looks at the room. If you eq out a room mode it won’t be able to do its best parts on room correction as well , so I would say keep your eq work above 1k and you should have fantastic results with Dirac live!

Jump over on the help thread and we all will be happy to get you sounding great. Once you get it right for your car you’ll know it, it’s unmistakable.
 

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Ive never seen responses that bad before.
Car - Skoda Octavia III Combi
Interesting. My midbass response in the left door looks terrible like that, and we both have very similar cars, the Skoda is newer though, but overall they are very similar VAG cars, I wonder if the door / center console / knee bolster area all are causing the response.

Agreed though, this should not be in the review thread but in the main C-DSP thread.
 

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Accidentally did a rew sweep with dirac at 0db on my horns. Holy fucking jesus fucking owe.

That was not a pleasant experience.

But it made me realize. I can boost nulls that aren't comb filtering on horns without worrying about excursion or not enough power. These things are like sticking your ear in a motorbike muffler at full throttle.

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Accidentally did a rew sweep with dirac at 0db on my horns. Holy fucking jesus fucking owe.

That was not a pleasant experience.

But it made me realize. I can boost nulls that aren't comb filtering on horns without worrying about excursion or not enough power. These things are like sticking your ear in a motorbike muffler at full throttle.

Sent from my XT1710-02 using Tapatalk


HAHAHA. got bit by the HLCD madness.

How does one do a rew sweep with Dirac (completely different platforms)
.......okay just joking we got what you meant :p



But your correct , the Stevens full-size the horn loads to 1k (Minnie’s 1.25khz)

So from 1khz and up you can do whatever you want. You have more efficiency to burn than you know. They will fry the hairs off your arms if you want them to


Diaphragms should make it through one 0db sweep but they will die if they did several in a row. The coil is held to diaphragm with jet glue (I made that up) but still it’s just glue
 
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