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I'm going to be using a MiniDSP 2x4 for crossovers and processing in my car but I have a few questions for anyone that's used them or is familiar with them. I'm going to be using a N-RHL4 line out converter to run from my stock headunit and then into a MiniDSP 2x4 and then out to the amps. Which model is best for that. They have a 3 different one's, the RevA, RevB, and Balanced. Which one would best be suited for my use?

Also, how do I power it? It says it takes 4.5-24V or 12V for the balanced model. Would I just wire it straight into the car electrical system? Thanks.
 

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Not sure the difference between the A and B models but you won't need balanced as your LOC does not output a balanced signal. I believe they make a 12v DC-DC converter for automotive use to help regulate power/reduce noise.
 

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personally I would just get the balanced one. it is more versatile and you can still connect unbalanced RCA style connections to it (although you will have to make your own connectors) the balanced one takes a higher input voltage too, making it easier to interface.

Not sure the difference between the A and B models but you won't need balanced as your LOC does not output a balanced signal. I believe they make a 12v DC-DC converter for automotive use to help regulate power/reduce noise.
the type "A" has a 1 volt input and the type "B" has a 4 volt input. it more than just a DC-DC, it is a complette isolation P/S. if you dont have ground problems, it wont be needed.
 

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personally I would just get the balanced one. it is more versatile and you can still connect unbalanced RCA style connections to it (although you will have to make your own connectors) the balanced one takes a higher input voltage too, making it easier to interface.



the type "A" has a 1 volt input and the type "B" has a 4 volt input. it more than just a DC-DC, it is a complette isolation P/S. if you dont have ground problems, it wont be needed.
I've heard the DSP can have a turn on pop and the dc-dc adapter includes a turn on delay to solve that. As well as solving any grounding issues that may arise with the Mini.
 

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I've heard the DSP can have a turn on pop and the dc-dc adapter includes a turn on delay to solve that. As well as solving any grounding issues that may arise with the Mini.
it is true that they dont have a turn on delay biult in on 2x4, good catch.

that can be solved with a PAC tr7 as well.

if your amplifiers have a soft turnon, will not likely be an issue though. the 2x4 will come on instantly and amplifiers will come on 2-5 secs later.
 

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if your amplifiers have a soft turnon, will not likely be an issue though. the 2x4 will come on instantly and amplifiers will come on 2-5 secs later.
Exactly, you want the DSP to be on and stable before the amplifier un-mutes. opposite for turn off, amp muted or off first.

Amps are always on last, off first.
 

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Buy the DC board add on; it's like 12 bucks. The board adds a DC to DC power supply filter, a remote turn on for the Mini and an amp delay remote output. Ti can handle 3 Mini boards.

The revision A supports up to .9 v input.
The revision B supports up to 2 v input.
The current boards they are shipping support both voltages via jumper settings.
 

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Buy the DC board add on; it's like 12 bucks. The board adds a DC to DC power supply filter, a remote turn on for the Mini and an amp delay remote output. Ti can handle 3 Mini boards.

The revision A supports up to .9 v input.
The revision B supports up to 2 v input.
The current boards they are shipping support both voltages via jumper settings.
Bikinpunk did a review thread on the MiniDSP boards and said he supplied them with, I think it was, 4 volts without clipping the inputs. That was a Rev B.
 

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but the comesouta is not 4 V. you could shove 100v at those inputs with the right mathematics in a pad and less than 25 cents in resistors.
 

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The output is where the meat and potatoes be chillin, nomesayin?. With a few resistors you can pad ANY input down (attenuate) enough to take damn near a lightning strike. I never really concern myself with too low of an input cap, I can always attenuate, but if the output cannot drive the next stage... not happening.

FWIW Comesouta is the opposite of guzinta.

FWIW PtII 2V is +8.24dBu

So if it makes 2V out, running downhill, with the wind against it's back it's going to have a hard time driving a pro amp, a consumer amp set up for -10dBu input levels, yeas.
 

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but the comesouta is not 4 V. you could shove 100v at those inputs with the right mathematics in a pad and less than 25 cents in resistors.
lol.........you crack me up. stop messing with the noobs ;)

basically it is a voltage divider.
 
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