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Discussion Starter #101
Rivet nuts installed on passenger side of the hatch floor:
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Driver's side:
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Test fitting of amp rack/alignment with rivet nuts:
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I would have preferred to chamfer the amp rack on the router, but I didn't have a bearing that would accommodate 1/4" material, so I applied a bit of a chamfer with the Mouse sander.
 

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Discussion Starter #102
How sturdy are you finding that 1/4 abs? Or is it mainly just to give the amps a part to mount on
Mainly just something to mount the amps on, but it's still fairly rigid. If I had it to do over, I'd probably go with 1/2" HDPE, not really for extra strength, but for more material to accept mounting screws. Finding 1/4" to 3/8" length screws can be pretty difficult in #8 size, and I don't like going smaller than that. I used 1/2" blown PVC in my Fiesta ST build, but I wasn't a huge fan of it. It's really easy to work with, but it seemed to get marred and scratched easier and I like the surface to remain presentable. 😊
The 1/4" ABS in my application gets very rigid when screwed to some fairly large amps like the Zapco Z-series.
 

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Discussion Starter #103
Also (if I read it correctly) why did you run 2 4 gauge pos and neg wires instead of single 0 gauge wires to the back?

Haven’t opened the side panels up yet to know if it’s possible but I’m thinking about running 0 gauge through if I can
When it became obvious I'd need to split the amp rack into two separate sections, it seemed cleaner to run dedicated power cable to each side, hence the 2 separate runs of 4 gauge. The original idea was to run those directly to each amplifier, with ground from each amp terminating to the same spot under the rear seat. After changing amps/DSP's several times I would periodically experience some system noise, so it just made sense to go ahead with the 1/0 ground run directly to the battery to minimize that variable. I also ran more than 1 amp or DSP on each side until getting the Z-150.6, so power/ground distribution at the amp rack became a necessity. I actually played around with several power/ground distribution blocks over the last week and considered replacing the dual 4 gauge with 1/0 power cable, but nothing I came up with worked as well for my configuration. Being Hell-bent on maintaining the spare tire space was easily the biggest obstacle in this install, particularly with big amps like the Zapco Z's. If I was going with a more typical amp rack where shared power/ground distribution was easier to achieve, I'd run 1/0 from the battery to rear. There's plenty of room. ;) (y)
 

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Discussion Starter #104
Upgraded the factory infotainment monitor from the stock 6.5" version to the newer 8" capacitive touch screen. :D

Before:
269150


After:
269151


269152
 

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Discussion Starter #105 (Edited)
Clearance for the RCA ends was so tight on the Z-150.6 that I didn't think leaving it as is was a good long-term solution. So I sectioned about 2" of the offending trim piece and filled the resulting hole with 1/8" ABS and body filler. In order to re-apply a factory-matching texture, I put on a fairly thick coat of primer and used a piece of the vinyl from my a-pillar build to imprint the texture in the wet primer. Wish I'd taken "before" pics on this one, but frankly had some doubts on how it was going to turn out... ;)

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Discussion Starter #107
Since I'm now fairly content that this amp rack is the final version, I made new RCA cables to custom lengths utilizing Stinger 8000 ends and cable from Amazon. Also routed the RCA's behind the factory trim panel, as the bottom of the panel will have to be trimmed to accommodate the spare tire.


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