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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
It looks like my auto mech is going to help me (or I will help him) install mass loaded vinyl and closed cell foam.

I own a:
2018 Honda Fit Sport (Orange Fury)

My system is...
System: Stock Head unit -- speaker level out
Amp: Pioneer GM-D8704 (4 channel x 100w) -- Under Driver's seat
Mains: JL Audio c-2650 component speakers -- tweets in Front dash, Mid Woofers & crossovers in front door
Subwoofer : JL Audio 8w3v3-4 -- Left hatch sidewall in custom fiberglass sealed sub enclosure

This is the basics of how I understand to go about the process...
  1. Strip down car interior exposing floor, doors, firewall and hatch floor, door and sides.
  2. Put down 35% to 65% coverage with Noico sound deadener, paying most attention to large flat surfaces
  3. Cover inside door and hatch frames as well as floor, firewall, hatch floor and sides with mass loaded vinyl pre-adheared to closed cell foam using industrial Velcro strips. Foam side down/in.
  4. Tape all seams and boarders
  5. Re-assemble interior, replace door panels
Does this sound about right? Any advice/tips/tricks?

For Deadener CLD Tiles I am using Noico

I wanted to buy MLV that is already bonded to CCF since I figure that will make things much easier for my installer...
Mass Loaded Vinyl/closed cell foam 2 layer 3/8" thick from ACOUSTICAL SURFACES.
  • Is this MLV product any good? Does anyone one have a better source that is reasonable in cost?
  • I am concerned that MLV 1/8" with 1/4" ccf will be too thick to fit under my door panels. True/False?
  • Sound Deadener Showdown says you only need 1/8" ? Anyone know where to get MLV bonded to 1/8" CCF?
  • Any care to estimate how many sq ft I should need? I am guessing 100 is more than enough?

For Tape to seal the seams in the MLV I was thinking of using YiePhiot Car Sealing Tape for Sound deadening .
  • Is this what I should be using?
  • Should I seal the edges of the Noico as well?

For Velcro I was hoping to use 1'' with 72 Adhesive VELCRO® Brand Tape . It is rated for up to 220F.
Has anyone tried this?
  • Do you suspect that velcro would work OK?
  • I figured 1" would be enough for the floors whereas, I could double up for vertical sheets?
  • How many feet of tape should I need?

I was also going to install a set of EVA Self Waterproof Car Door Speaker Foam Rings Baffle Kit around the woofer corner of my mains in the from door.
  • Good Idea? Yay or Nay?

Any advice I can get on sourcing products or on installation would be helpful.

Thanks
 

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I would at least buy the velcro from @SkizeR (website https://resonixsoundsolutions.com/)- he has a more industrial version of it you probably can't source (that's my understanding). He sells butyl rope which will probably come in handy on the doors. He also sells CLD, I don't have experience w/ it but the feedback is it's up with the best or is flat out the best.

I can't speak to the MLV, so I'd be interested to hear what others recommend for MLV and tape.
 

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I am using 3 products. Maybe this will give you some ideas.

Damplifier pro
Vibro 6mm foam
Tessa Tape
Something to make templates with

Damplifier pro went on the inner door skins, floors and any of the front footwell/firewall area I can access. It dramatically reduced noise and vibration. Is very easy to install.

Vibro foam goes on the door frame and door panel. I also put some damplifier pro under the foam around the integrated speaker covers extending out about 3-6" beyond it.

The foam reduces vibration at the interface of the door panel and door frame.

All the plastic clips were wrapped in tessa tape. I removed the modules holding door lock buttons and window buttons, wrapped that interface with tessa tape and reinstalled.

Any lose wires were taped.

The holes in the door frame are being covered with an ABS plastic panel installed with rivet nuts.

I am using fast rings. I put the ring around the speaker and the round center plug piece on the inner door skin behind the speaker. I also stick some foam squares spaced apart on the inner door skin. This breaks up sound waves behind the speaker.

I havent decided yet what to put between the speaker, the adaptor and door frame. Either butyl tape, or some more vibro foam.

It takes a LOT of time to do all this. I do a bit each day. But its worth it.

Tip: Damplifier pro will run you well over $500 but if you email them and ask nicely, they do give one time 10% off codes. I got one and saved $50.

Damplifier pro on passenger door. Nothing on driver's door. Not very scientific but its a massive improvement.

 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I would at least buy the velcro from @SkizeR (website https://resonixsoundsolutions.com/)- he has a more industrial version of it you probably can't source (that's my understanding). He sells butyl rope which will probably come in handy on the doors. He also sells CLD, I don't have experience w/ it but the feedback is it's up with the best or is flat out the best.

I can't speak to the MLV, so I'd be interested to hear what others recommend for MLV and tape.
Thanks for the reply.

I have seen his velcro. Any idea how much I would need?

I'd but some of his rope to use around wire openings under the dash and to quell rattles of my turn signals and all. Could you give me a feel for what quantity might be needed?
 

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There was test on fast rings. That foam isn't dense enough. Just use weatherstripping. It's easier to fit mlv and foam if they are separate. Buy self adhering CCF. Buy Resonix CCF. Super compliant. Exactly what's needed to stop rattles. Then buy the cheapest 1lb virgin mlv you can find. If you don't buy virgin mlv it will stink for a long time. Get 2' of the Velcro. Once you see in first person how much better it is you'll start using it all over the place. You can never have enough.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
There was test on fast rings. That foam isn't dense enough. Just use weatherstripping. It's easier to fit mlv and foam if they are separate. Buy self adhering CCF. Buy Resonix CCF. Super compliant. Exactly what's needed to stop rattles. Then buy the cheapest 1lb virgin mlv you can find. If you don't buy virgin mlv it will stink for a long time. Get 2' of the Velcro. Once you see in first person how much better it is you'll start using it all over the place. You can never have enough.

You will also want contact cement for the mlv and a roller for cld
Thanks for the response. This does get confusing as every person tells you to do things differently.
SDS and second skin recommend ccf and mlv that are pre-bonded, but you say people have trouble working with these products
What would the contact cement be for? I thought the MLV was to be held in place by velcro. If the MLV is being glued in, for what purpose do you use the velcro.

If the process I outlined just all wrong?

Thanks
 

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Listener of Music
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The contact cement is for overlapping MLV. I find it harder to squeeze MLV in door panels when it has the closed cell foam attached. It is most certainly faster to have it attached but I think it's easier in the end to just stick the foam to the door panel and the MLV on after. SDS never sold closed cell foam with adhesive.
 
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