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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all! I'm excited to begin my audio install on a 2015 Durango R/T that was purchased new in April of 2015. Its a 3 row SUV that comfortably seats six and is powered by a 5.7 liter Hemi through a ZF 8 speed transmission. The goal of this build is to have a mostly stealth SQ install of a fully active 3-way setup with the majority of the gear stored below the height of the rear cargo floor. The stock radio is a UConnect 8.4 AN model that will be retained. At one point there was a plan for the build to have a little more flash and take up more space. Now that my wife and I are expecting our first child, maintaining full use of the cargo area is a priority.

Here are a few pictures of the ride:


Stock form


Interior pics from my trim package were pulled from the web since I could't get as good of a shot



20x9 Jeep SRT replica "Spider Monkey" wheels with and MGP Caliper Covers





Stock Engine Compartment


Volant Cold Air Intake w/ Power Core Filter



I'll check back in later with the audio gear and the start of the build from this weekend.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks GERMANIKS.

On to the rear cargo area.

With 3rd row seats up


Seats folded down



Storage cubby w/ pocket in the floor and flashlight



Under the lid



Access to jack. Spare tire is lowered from under the vehicle through hole in the floor



Cargo Tray removed to access stock sub




Sub removed





Jack and mounting bracket removed




In the lower left corner you can see the wiring harnesses coming out of the stock amp that is stored below the storage cubby. Wiring for the proximity sensor and sub woofer run along the rear of the vehicle shown in the foreground.








With the cargo area cleaned out it was time to begin planning on what to put in its place. Starting with the gear that I have to install:

The Precision Power P.65C3 components were purchased for my 2010 Ram but it ended up being traded in for the Durango before they could be installed.




Precision Power Phantom Amps. 900.4, 600.2 and 1000.1





Precision Power DEQ.8 Processor





Sundown 10" SD-3 Dual 4 ohm Subs







A piece of 3/4" MDF was cut to fit in the floor so subs and amps could be arranged to find how they would be laid out.

I started with this but really didn't like how asymmetrical it was and having enough room for a 1.2 cubic foot enclosure was going to be tough. The cargo area measures 36" across by 20" long at its maximum. There is 9 1/4" depth near the 3rd row seat brackets but that gets shallower as the the floor goes to the back for the hump where the spare tire is located under the vehicle. Placing the subs as far forward as possible was needed to provide enough clearance.



Moving to this arrangement was more appealing to the eye and gave the needed space for the enclosure which will fire down into the floor for loading and vent forwards under the 3rd row seats and into the cabin. The processor no longer fit though so it will have to move to the storage cubby.





The jack and tire tools can be stowed in a bag but access to the shaft to drop the spare has to be kept. A cutout was made and I verified that there was clearance with the layout of the enclosure and amps.




Next, let's cut some more wood!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The sub enclosure started with a 12" x 36" piece of 3/4" MDF. 2 3/4" tall feet were kept from being at the edges of the box due to the contour of the floor and trim panels. Where the enclosure vents into the cabin there is an opening of 3" tall and 32 1/2" wide.



From there 5 1/2" tall walls and a divider/brace was installed. 10" SD3's have a 4 3/4" depth and the speaker vents around the sides of the motor.




The back wall extends down to match the contour of the floor and keep moving air from heading back to where the amp rack will be placed.



Tire tool has 1/4" of clearance when placed into the floor for dropping the spare



Top of box extends past the side walls of the box to close the gap with the side trim panels. This will end up being carpeted and will be the new floor of the cargo area. The back wall of the box still needs some re-shaping to better match the contour of the floor. As it sits now it is about a 1/4" too tall on the passenger side causing the top of the box to not sit
flush.




The subs call for .5 cubes each of air space and have a displacement of .11 cu. ft. per speaker. With a goal of 1.22 sealed, I got very close. The inside of the box measures 34" 1/2" x 5.5" x 11 1/4" yielding 1.235 cubes before the brace is deducted. I'm very happy with how it sits and this is my stopping point for now. Hope to make some adjustments to the box this week which will have it sitting level and flush. The amp rack will have to wait until next weekend.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Couple of updates from today. The amp rack was started with an MDF panel that rests on the floor behind the box. After talking with Lanson, who is working on his own Durango, I learned that he found that the floor of his cargo area was not level. Looks like I am running in to this as well. Some reshaping of the feet of the enclosure helped but I've still got a little work to do. Here is how it sits now.




Since I have a tight space to work with the amps will need to be angled. Some MDF triangles were cut to test out. I like the design, but even with predrilling, the MDF split from #6 screws. 1x lumber or metal brackets may be a better choice. I'm open to suggestions too.




Access for spare tire tool to pass through



Inset panel for processor and disto blocks.



Full view of the trunk




The panels that went in today haven't yet been fastened down. The more I look at the top of the box though the more I think about adding a plexiglass window. There is light blue accent lighting throughout the cabin that would be cool to carry over to the back of the car. Lighting inside the box, amp rack and around the disto blocks would jazz it up a bit. A cargo mat could be laid over the enclosure and amp rack for daily driving.
 

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Looks great so far. For attaching your amps, I would suggest T-nuts or hurricane nuts in the wood. Those will be more secure and won't make the wood split. In this case you'll probably be best off with hurricane nuts because you won't be inserting them from the back.

Another option is to make those angled brackets from some angle-iron or aluminum.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Looks great so far. For attaching your amps, I would suggest T-nuts or hurricane nuts in the wood. Those will be more secure and won't make the wood split. In this case you'll probably be best off with hurricane nuts because you won't be inserting them from the back.

Another option is to make those angled brackets from some angle-iron or aluminum.
Thank you and hurricane nuts are a good idea.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Good choice in subs! Curious how this build will turn out.
I'm eager to hear them play. Had a pair of 12" SD-2's in my last truck and wanted the SD-3's since they were announced.

The build logs here have been one of my favorite parts of this site. My first one was never completed so I'm looking forward to seeing this one through. I'll probably have lots of questions as I go forward since this is my first build with a stand-alone processor and I have a lot to learn when it comes to tuning.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Another day with MDF dust in my hair but made some good progress. I went over to my buddy Rick's house (Speakerpimp) to show what I had so far and bounce a few thoughts off of him. We got the box sitting level and low enough to then move on to the amp rack. He had the idea to raise it up and extend into some open space at the back of the car. Now the amps can lay flat and recess below the rear trim panel. The change looked better to us and will make wiring a little easier. It also freed up much needed space below the amp rack to run wiring. Lastly the subs were put in to test fit everything inside the car.





More space above the top of the amps for a cover plate



Feeling super good about about the changes and think they pull the design together. This will be the last bit of work that can be done for a week or so. Up next is make a decision on the material for the top of the box and start running wires. Its a good stopping point and I feel better having a little something to show at the Aggieland Invitational next weekend in College Station. Had a good time last year and have been looking forward to going back.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
So there hasn't been much to post recently since there hadn't been a lot of progress. I took off to go to the Aggieland Invitational show two weeks back and came home with some motivation. Listening to some great sounding cars will do that.

First off, I decided that the sub enclosure could use a little more flair. Having a usable cargo area is still a necessity but why not have some show back there too? Since the top of the box will be the tallest point of the install and there isn't room for a cover plate I opted to cut out two sections to counter sink some 3/4" plexi windows into. Frames were built from 1x2 select pine that will make a shelf inside the box for the plexi to attach to:



I allowed for a 1/4" gap between the frames and the walls of the box. Glued and nailed from the back side:







This will allow me to wrap the box in carpet and have it go down into the cut outs. Carpet will run down to the seam where the MDF meets the pine frame. The plexi will drop in from the top and be sealed up with with 3/4" wide neoprene tape that runs along the 3/4" wide pine shelf. I'm hoping that the thickness of the tape and carpet will even out and provide a level surface across the seams.

There was also a need for more install accessories so after some time on Amazon I ended up with some Dayton binding posts for the enclosre, T-nuts and stainless cap screws for mounting the subs, LED strip lighting for inside the box and amp rack, techflex and some other install accessories:



I also noticed that because the amps' inputs and controls are on the ends I was going to run into clearance problems and wanted to find a way to space them out some. However the rear quarter panel trim pieces were in the way so I did some trimming:





That helped and now one amp's RCAs won't be rubbing up against another's power wiring.

Lastly, I've been going back and forth about how I'll be pulling signal from the factory amp to the DEQ.8 processor and what that signal will look like. Today a JL Fix82 integration processor was ordered and will be in early next week. I'm hoping that kills two birds with one stone by providing a clean, flat signal with factory processing removed and helps with retaining the hands-free phone calls since it has a bluetooth mode. Getting excited again to get back to work on it this weekend.
 

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If you are not in a rush, PAC will be selling an interface soon to will provide outputs from 8.4N with Alpine. Our Pac rep is supposed to be getting one to me to try in my Ram. Not sure on ETA though.

I also have a listing of female/male connectors for the Alpine amp if you want to create your own harness so you don't have to cut it.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
If you are not in a rush, PAC will be selling an interface soon to will provide outputs from 8.4N with Alpine. Our Pac rep is supposed to be getting one to me to try in my Ram. Not sure on ETA though.

I also have a listing of female/male connectors for the Alpine amp if you want to create your own harness so you don't have to cut it.
I had been waiting to see what PAC was going to offer. Share your thoughts when you get your hands on one.

And yes, I would really like to make my own harness so I don't have to hack up the stock one. I've only done limited searching but haven't been able to find the plug. Any info you have there would be MUCH appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Nice work so far. Do you plan on upgrading the electrical at all, or will the stock alt/battery support the 3 amps?
Thanks. I'm not really concerned with the stock electrical at the moment. The alt in the R/T is 220 amps but I am not opposed to upgrading the battery if needed. I've had two of the three amps in a Ram prior to this which had nearly the same electrical system and it handled it just fine.
 
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