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Discussion Starter #1
Im really lost and need some help. I posted a couple weeks ago about blowing an SB29 tweeter. It was completely destroyed. Original post containing my system setup: any ideas what could have caused this?

So I thought the used focal amp I bought for $60 had a bad output terminal. I bought a new amp (nvx 1000.4) and sb29 and ran new speaker wire too it.

once again, sounded great. Throwing money at it fixed all my problems!! For a week. Then I noticed it sounding off and I fade all to the right from the HU and sure enough, only the mid is playing.

before people ask, yes tweets are crossed right at 2.5k and gain on tweet channels is only like 15% of the way up. The left tweet has been fine this whole time.

wtf could be the cause of this?? I guess at this point the only thing to assume is bit ten dsp failure considering the amp and wiring have already been ruled out?
 

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I hate the audison bit ten. Its a totally janky hardware unit with a pretty decent software UI. Yes it is a reasonable assumption that the DSP is causing your issue if its always been on one side.
 

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I hate the audison bit ten. Its a totally janky hardware unit with a pretty decent software UI. Yes it is a reasonable assumption that the DSP is causing your issue if its always been on one side.
****. I’ve basically bought my system 2 times over at this point.
 

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Lets assume the Bit TEN is not causing the problem. If that is the case then it would be the user setup of the DSP that is causing the problem. I read the old thread and you said you were crossing the tweeter at 12db slope. It 100% should be 24db. Do you have any way to verify its not a user set up problem on that side of the car? I know you can say you set it properly, but can you verify it somehow? Easist way would be to hook a full range coax to the tweeter output and verify is is not playing anything below the XO freq. Do this with an SPL meter or a DMM.
 

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Did you install a cap to protect the tweeters in case of a DSP failure?
 

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Lets assume the Bit TEN is not causing the problem. If that is the case then it would be the user setup of the DSP that is causing the problem. I read the old thread and you said you were crossing the tweeter at 12db slope. It 100% should be 24db. Do you have any way to verify its not a user set up problem on that side of the car? I know you can say you set it properly, but can you verify it somehow? Easist way would be to hook a full range coax to the tweeter output and verify is is not playing anything below the XO freq. Do this with an SPL meter or a DMM.
I changed it to 24db slope when this tweet was put in. I’ve double checked the crossover is set properly on all channels. I mean I can hook up the software to it again and take screenshots of you want to see yourself but I assure you it is.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Have you combed through the wiring beginning to end?
I have not pulled the new speaker wiring and looked thru it yet but it’s just a straight run of knuconcepts from the dash to the amp. I know I should do that before making a post like this but dang there’s just no way it’s cut anywhere I ran it carefully
 

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I changed it to 24db slope when this tweet was put in. I’ve double checked the crossover is set properly on all channels. I mean I can hook up the software to it again and take screenshots of you want to see yourself but I assure you it is.
No, i don't want to see a screen shot, i belive that you have set the software correctly, what i am asking for is there a way you can verify the output? Meaning you can set the software to 3500hz at 24db. But how can you verify that it is actually working properly.
 

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No, i don't want to see a screen shot, i belive that you have set the software correctly, what i am asking for is there a way you can verify the output? Meaning you can set the software to 3500hz at 24db. But how can you verify that it is actually working properly.
You an like a pink noise into REW with only that tweeter playing?
 

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No, i don't want to see a screen shot, i belive that you have set the software correctly, what i am asking for is there a way you can verify the output? Meaning you can set the software to 3500hz at 24db. But how can you verify that it is actually working properly.
I gotcha. I guess I could hook up the 6.5 mid to that amp channel and see if it sounds like it’s still playing mid/mid bass or just high freqs.
 

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No, i don't want to see a screen shot, i belive that you have set the software correctly, what i am asking for is there a way you can verify the output? Meaning you can set the software to 3500hz at 24db. But how can you verify that it is actually working properly.
hi again, So today I finally had time to bring out the laptop and hook it up to the bit ten to double check my settings and I also connected the right 6.5 door speaker to that channel to see if the crossover settings were working or not. My settings in the bet ten for the tweeter channels was HPF @ 3khz 24db slope. all EQ flat and time alignment not done. I then hooked up my 6.5 sb acoustic driver to the channel to verify it was not playing any bass notes. I listened to music for 10 mins at various volumes with only that speaker playing and it never sounded like it dropped below my set crossover point.

Also, I turned the car on and off a few times and I dont get any turn on noises or alt whine or anything like that. Its completely silent.

Strange, I was honestly hoping it would be DSP crossover failure so I at least knew what the problem was and how to fix it. Now im clueless again lol
 

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Any chance there's a physical issue with the mounting location? With the same location going bad again and the amp having been ruled out it doesn't leave too many more possible culprits. The headunit isn't clipping the signal? Or possibly files that have clipping in them?

Btw did the same thing happen to the tweeter? I know you said it's sounds like it's dead. Have you measured the response of the tweeter with just the crossover on no eq?
 

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Any chance there's a physical issue with the mounting location? With the same location going bad again and the amp having been ruled out it doesn't leave too many more possible culprits. The headunit isn't clipping the signal? Or possibly files that have clipping in them?

Btw did the same thing happen to the tweeter? I know you said it's sounds like it's dead. Have you measured the response of the tweeter with just the crossover on no eq?
Yes the same exact thing happened to the tweeter. It looks just like the first one I posted a pic of in the other thread. As far as physical mounting location causing issue, I don’t know what that issue would be. I’m using the factory location with the factory mounting bracket that the stock tweet was in. There’s no metal the terminals can make contact with or anything like that.

i have no way to measure the response at the moment other than hooking up a mid to that channel to check the HPF crossover settings we’re working, and they are.

I don’t also don’t know how the factory HU would be clipping. I set all the dsp gains with the test cd and they are all at about 70% up before the clipping light comes on and I back off some to turn it off.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Any chance there's a physical issue with the mounting location? With the same location going bad again and the amp having been ruled out it doesn't leave too many more possible culprits. The headunit isn't clipping the signal? Or possibly files that have clipping in them?

Btw did the same thing happen to the tweeter? I know you said it's sounds like it's dead. Have you measured the response of the tweeter with just the crossover on no eq?
Oh and files with clipping, Idk I use Spotify over Bluetooth for all my music
 
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