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I'm a Spotify user as well but figured it couldn't hurt to ask. I'm thinking if there's any significant heat, grill physically hitting dome, or something that's interfering with the tweeter? I've had a pair of the dome sb tweeters (not ring radiators) for over a year across 2 cars with no issues.

I was thinking clipping since that's a huge source of heat when it comes to tweeters. There's no way to keep the tweeters voice coil cool enough to not fail if it's clipping at all
 

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Discussion Starter #22
I'm a Spotify user as well but figured it couldn't hurt to ask. I'm thinking if there's any significant heat, grill physically hitting dome, or something that's interfering with the tweeter? I've had a pair of the dome sb tweeters (not ring radiators) for over a year across 2 cars with no issues.

I was thinking clipping since that's a huge source of heat when it comes to tweeters. There's no way to keep the tweeters voice coil cool enough to not fail if it's clipping at all
Here’s my mounting location. Plastic grill goes over top of it but it does not make contact with the tweet. Man this sucks hoping I can get to the bottom of it.
 

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I forgot you had a
Mazda. I recognize the location. I did trim down the honeycomb ribs in the grills for peace of mind, but I don't think they interfere with the tweeter much. I don't know if you have the Bose system but the headunit Infotainment can go nearly to max without any clipping in the Bose. I'm tapped off the signal before the amplifier and have had no issues at all.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
I forgot you had a
Mazda. I recognize the location. I did trim down the honeycomb ribs in the grills for peace of mind, but I don't think they interfere with the tweeter much. I don't know if you have the Bose system but the headunit Infotainment can go nearly to max without any clipping in the Bose. I'm tapped off the signal before the amplifier and have had no issues at all.
Yea that is what I did for the bit ten was tap before the amp. So I just removed the amp completely and put the bit ten in its place. I set the gains on the bit ten with the HU volume at like 80% up just to be safe.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
So if you had to guess what would you think the problem is? Bit ten failure? Maybe sometimes the crossover fails on it and it lets full range go through sometimes? I just don’t know what it could be...
 

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Tbh i can't think of anything besides the dsp or wiring. Since you ran separate wiring it's less likely without a break in the wiring. Is there any way you can bypass dsp and still crossover at proper frequency?
 

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Do you have any significant EQ boosts applied in that tweeters pass band to help correct dips in frequency response? Remember, EQ bands are nothing more than frequency specific gain controls. Maybe you have a 12dB boost at 3KHz or something that could be applying too much power to the tweeter?

Ge0
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Tbh i can't think of anything besides the dsp or wiring. Since you ran separate wiring it's less likely without a break in the wiring. Is there any way you can bypass dsp and still crossover at proper frequency?
I could turn on the HPF on the amp for the tweeter channels. So the Mazda infotainment really does not clip all the way to max volume? What max volume level did you set yours on?
 

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I haven't tried at max volume, but with the the Bose system taping before the amp i set dsp input gain at 48 system volume. I used 0db test tones and the clipping indicator on my helix. Max volume iirc is 63. The amp gains were set using tones for the midbass. The tweeter channels were by ear as well as my sub amp.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
I haven't tried at max volume, but with the the Bose system taping before the amp i set dsp input gain at 48 system volume. I used 0db test tones and the clipping indicator on my helix. Max volume iirc is 63. The amp gains were set using tones for the midbass. The tweeter channels were by ear as well as my sub amp.
Need to get me one of them Helix DSP's! I noticed the rear right (right tweet channel) input sensitivity on the bit ten was up slightly higher than the other channels. May be just enough to be clipping. I doubt that would be enough to smoke a tweeter like that so fast but regardless, im going to reset all bit ten settings and input sensitivity and then hook up the left tweeter to that channel and see if any problems arise.

I would rather be out another $50 if the left tweet blows than to just buy a new expensive DSP like the helix right away if I dont have too.
 

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I would definitely try swapping tweeter signals. Mahe sure your DSP isn't screwing you over. Trim the tweeter grills if you can. Small tweek that might help
 

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Discussion Starter #32
I would definitely try swapping tweeter signals. Mahe sure your DSP isn't screwing you over. Trim the tweeter grills if you can. Small tweek that might help
I just did that and the left tweeter played and sounded fine at all volumes for like 20 mins straight. Jeez it might have been just because the input sensitivity on the bit ten was up just a hair too much for that channel. Im starting to think the bit ten "clipping indicator" may not be the most reliable.
 

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When it comes to tweeters clipping indicators are definitely not needed. Your ear will till you that the tweeter is screaming way before any indicator. I have my tweeters turned down a good amount
 

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Discussion Starter #34
When it comes to tweeters clipping indicators are definitely not needed. Your ear will till you that the tweeter is screaming way before any indicator. I have my tweeters turned down a good amount
Right, but with the bit ten the idea is to get the input sensitivity for all channels as high as possible. So you play the test track at max desired HU volume and turn up sensitivity until the clipping indicator light comes on and then back off a bit until it turns off. You do this for all 4 input channels. then set amp gain accordingly. So for the tweeters I had the gain on the amp way less than the mids.

I think the bit ten input sensitivity for that channel was just a tad to high so some clipping was introduced before the amp. I ordered another SB29. Gonna take my chances.
 

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Same as the helix tbh. Set input sensitivity to make sure you're not clipping inputs and set up amp to make sure they're not clipping. With tweeters though clip indicators and test tones are pretty much worthless. If your ears work you know when they're too loud, and you only need enough top end to sound natural. I have my tweeters turned way down in my eq for those channels
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Same as the helix tbh. Set input sensitivity to make sure you're not clipping inputs and set up amp to make sure they're not clipping. With tweeters though clip indicators and test tones are pretty much worthless. If your ears work you know when they're too loud, and you only need enough top end to sound natural. I have my tweeters turned way down in my eq for those channels
I was just saying Im not using the clipping indicators and test tones for my tweeters. Only using them to set the input sensitivity on the bit ten with rcas unplugged. Then setting amp gain from there. I didnt think they were too loud
 
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