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Since you didn't get a reply I will chime in. I use these in both my vehicles. In my truck they are in the stock dash location firing up at the windshield IB configuration crossed 350-5000 24LR. They are recieving 125 watts same power as the Audiofrog 6x9's. They absolutely do not break up. They stay clean all the way up until they hurt your ears. I loved them so much I bought a second set for my car. I installed them in the pillars and they sound just as good in that location.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
I'll weigh in on this too since I just saw it. At 350hz 24db they seemed to have the best tonality for me BUT they didn't seem to hold their composure as well as I would have liked. With "loud" being such a subjective term it's hard to gauge what everyone's true definition of "loud" is. My ears are VERY sensitive to distortion but I was also pushing them pretty hard to test their limits. Who knows, I could have been clipping the amp at 85rms per channel but I doubt it. Gains are all the way down with 6v outputs going to inputs that take 6v with gains at minimum. Probably just used to being able to run my gb25's up to stupid loud volume levels and speakers begging for more. For what they are I still feel like the Morel mids are very good performers for the price.
 

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I have mine installed in the sail panels receiving about 70 watts and crossed at 400-5000 LR24. I'm extremely happy with their sound quality and they do get plenty loud but also stay under control. If I ever put a system in my girlfriends car I wouldnt hesitate to use them again
 

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Thanks everyone. I'll probably just have to play with them to see what works for me. Since they're going in a convertible and will be getting 120 watts they'll need to play stupid loud for those times I'm on the highway top down. I tend to not push drivers outside their sweet spot so they sound their best. I will be crossing these to a tweeter at 3K 24db so it should help that they won't have to play up high. Any thoughts on if this will allow them to go a little lower? My other thought is to start where Dyn would cross the Esotar2 650 in a 3 way which is 650 but of course it's always tempting to push it down towards 300 to take full advantage of the 3 way set up especially in a vert where the location is up at the top of the door.

Any additional feedback is always welcomed. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Thanks everyone. I'll probably just have to play with them to see what works for me. Since they're going in a convertible and will be getting 120 watts they'll need to play stupid loud for those times I'm on the highway top down. I tend to not push drivers outside their sweet spot so they sound their best. I will be crossing these to a tweeter at 3K 24db so it should help that they won't have to play up high. Any thoughts on if this will allow them to go a little lower? My other thought is to start where Dyn would cross the Esotar2 650 in a 3 way which is 650 but of course it's always tempting to push it down towards 300 to take full advantage of the 3 way set up especially in a vert where the location is up at the top of the door.

Any additional feedback is always welcomed. Thanks!
Well, I don't know about lowpassing them up top letting them play lower but it will for sure keep them from having to play as much of the spectrum. Lowpassed up top or not they still gotta move air to play the lower stuff with authority. For your needs I'd be running the gb25 in that size range if money allowed. With the power you have and being a convertible that 4mm of Klippel verified linear xmax could really work in your favor and could take that power crossed at 300hz without breaking a sweat.
 

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Well, I don't know about lowpassing them up top letting them play lower but it will for sure keep them from having to play as much of the spectrum. Lowpassed up top or not they still gotta move air to play the lower stuff with authority. For your needs I'd be running the gb25 in that size range if money allowed. With the power you have and being a convertible that 4mm of Klippel verified linear xmax could really work in your favor and could take that power crossed at 300hz without breaking a sweat.

Since I want to mount these in the factory location and the grill is part of the door handle assembly the gb25 will not fit without a major rebuild (I already have a pair of gb25s). The Morel will drop right into the factory location like it's made for it. Given these facts the Morel wins. I'm just not willing to rebuild my door or have a giant blob on my a-pillar to install the gb25 (at least not yet :D).
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Since I want to mount these in the factory location and the grill is part of the door handle assembly the gb25 will not fit without a major rebuild (I already have a pair of gb25s). The Morel will drop right into the factory location like it's made for it. Given these facts the Morel wins. I'm just not willing to rebuild my door or have a giant blob on my a-pillar to install the gb25 (at least not yet :D).
Oh ok. Well they're worth a try then. If output suffers at the suggested 350hz just step them up until you can push them to desired volume without distorting.
 

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With the esotars having really good midrange, you have nothing to lose by running them to 400 or above to get whatever you need out of the morels. Many midbass drivers may not play well higher, that Dyn is not one of them.
 

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With the esotars having really good midrange, you have nothing to lose by running them to 400 or above to get whatever you need out of the morels. Many midbass drivers may not play well higher, that Dyn is not one of them.
Agreed. This makes sense given that the Esotar 3 way crosses the 650 at 650hz. Why make a 2.5" driver struggle to play what a 6.5' driver plays effortlessly? The only reason would be to raise the sound stage a little with the smaller driver positioned at the top of the door. This should work itself out with little trial and error but I agree 400-500 should be great.
 

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You can run them IB just fine. Only thing I really suggest is to do as much as you can to keep the sound from the back of the speaker from causing issues that "just dropping them in" can cause. Some neoprene to make a bladder type enclosure should work fine. I know a guy who had great success making an enclosure for his Scan 10f's this way. Really you just want to attenuate the wave from the back of the cone as much as possible.
Could you expand a little on how to make a neoprene enclosure, that would improve midrange response for these or any other midrange speakers in a ib door situation?

Also, do you or any others have any commentary on how these would compare to the sb accustics 2.5 inch?
 

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Could you expand a little on how to make a neoprene enclosure, that would improve midrange response for these or any other midrange speakers in a ib door situation?

Also, do you or any others have any commentary on how these would compare to the sb accustics 2.5 inch?
I've never personally made one like that but I would imagine as long as you can seal a piece to an adapter ring or something with both roughly the same size you should be OK.
 

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Could you expand a little on how to make a neoprene enclosure, that would improve midrange response for these or any other midrange speakers in a ib door situation?

Also, do you or any others have any commentary on how these would compare to the sb accustics 2.5 inch?
I've heard both the SB and the Morel in the same car and IMO the Morel is in another league compared to the SB, smoother, more detailed, less susceptible to compression and just all around more pleasant to listen to. Of course the CCWR254 is three times more expensive than the SB65WBAC25-4 so it should be a lot better.
 

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Curious HillbillySQ, Have you had a chance to play with the Infinity 20mx/JBL Stadium GTO20m? I own the 20mx, but I'm curious about other options in the under 3" mid arena. Esp with a driver that can play lower, as the domed mids can play down to 500hz but thats it. Is it possible for you to do a review on a set of those? and the JBl and infinity have different sonic signatures from what I was told.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Curious HillbillySQ, Have you had a chance to play with the Infinity 20mx/JBL Stadium GTO20m? I own the 20mx, but I'm curious about other options in the under 3" mid arena. Esp with a driver that can play lower, as the domed mids can play down to 500hz but thats it. Is it possible for you to do a review on a set of those? and the JBl and infinity have different sonic signatures from what I was told.
I considered playing around with a set back when I first found out about them. I don't have any plans of doing any testing at this point because of everything that has to happen to do it right. I did hear a pair of mx20's in naiku's car mounted off axis in the kicks and they sounded quite nice. He also put a good amount of time into the tune I think. If I were needing a midrange for a budget 3-way build it would be at or near the top of my list.
 

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Could you expand a little on how to make a neoprene enclosure, that would improve midrange response for these or any other midrange speakers in a ib door situation?

Also, do you or any others have any commentary on how these would compare to the sb accustics 2.5 inch?


I had the morel for a little while in my last car.

I did what I always do with small mids

Duck tape the baskets and make it a sealed back mid. But duct tape not metal

This will raise the efficiency in its usable range (350-4000) and also push any reflections on the sealed side way up past the crossover (3kor so)

It also improves transient response


It won’t play low, but you won’t need it to


Try it , eq it Lmk
 
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