From the specs, it's a pretty different beast from the Supremo MW6. The QTS on the supreme is really low, I don't think it would model well at all in a door. I had considered that driver as well...

For that kind of money though, If it'll fit, maybe shoot for the Dyn MW182 for a bit more? It's a "small" 10" mid, really more like a 9, but it's only 3" deep. Also only needs a 7.7" cutout. It would mate really well with the Piccolo's. I'm going to be replacing my Anarchy's with them in a couple of months.

 

I have the same van and I am getting hiss when paring my OEM radio w/ the Bit one. I was wondering if I should change out the radio after seeing your system and vehicle. My radio has gps, phone and dvd connection hence my hesitation at the moment.

 

I couldn't stand the factory radio. It was easily the worst factory radio I've heard in a vehicle. I didn't pop for the Entune system (JBL) with nav, as I didn't really need the push-button start and I knew I would be replacing the radio anyway.

That being said, the AppRadio 3, coupled with the AppRadio Unchained android app from XDA-Developers has made me very happy. I love having Google Maps for my nav, and essentially having a full, lag-free mirrored interface for my Galaxy Note II.

It comes at a price though, you can't use the phone controls on the steering wheel (controlled from the screen), but the other steering radio controls work. Also, no video output on this deck, so you'll need a separate DVD source for the rear entertainment.

If you're still getting hiss with your Bit One though, I'd suspect the signal it's being fed. Are you pulling the source before or after the factory amp? I'd use the pre-amp signal, and I'd still de-EQ it. Maybe you could make a separate thread on it so your issue will get some exposure?

 

My radio sucks for sure. I cant turn my amp gain up too much else I get the nasty hiss. BTW, do you have to cut the door for the mw182? There is a local guy selling them for $400 on craigslist.

 

Jump on them for that price! You don't need to cut the doors, you just need to make a baffle. They're only 3" deep, and the cutout is just a hair over 7.75 inches. You have 2.25 inches before you hit the window. I'd go with 1" starboard (HDPE) for the baffle.

You will need to trim off that thin plastic oval on the backside of the door panel with a razor knife or dremel tool though. And the MW182's will absolutely demand that you cover all 3 of the big holes that you'll find in the Sienna door. Deaden everything in the doors as well. I used about 20 ft2 of deadener on each of my doors and a yard of Ensolite on each door.

This is the finished deadening I did before my install, which is still in-progress. All the holes are covered with hardboard, wrapped with deadener (a mix of BXT II and Stinger roadkill pro). Door release and lock cables are wrapped in Ensolite, then covered with 1/2" flex-loom, then that is sandwiched in the deadener and Ensolite so that it won't bind up.

Do. Not. Cover. The. Sensor. With. The. Yellow. Plug! It's in the bottom outer corner of each door. That's part of the STAR airbag system. It looks to be an accelerometer.

Oh, and when you cover the holes, your door panel won't fit until you take a flush-cut dremel (one of those vibrating tools) and cut the white plastic honeycomb piece so that it's all flush with the lowest layer. You'll know what I'm talking about when you see it.

To the OP, sorry we heavily hijacked your thread!