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It's all depend on how strong your front stage midbass is producing the low frequency. Right now, i cross mine at 50hz @24db (reverse polarity). My front midbass is HP 40hz @ 24db. Experiment is your friend :)
Everyone wants to high pass midbass drivers at a very low frequency, but if they are mounted in the front doors, you will want to reconsider that. It's the rare door install where the speakers will not excite panels and plastic parts, thus creating resonance that will add distortion and coloration to the music to which you are listening. Here is something I recommend you do: mute all speakers except for your midbass and play music with a lot of low frequency information. With a 40 Hz highpass, you will probably be shocked at what you have been listening to. Now, increase the highpass frequency in 10 Hz increments until the resonance is about eliminated (listen to what happens around 80 Hz), and then change your slope to a shallower one so the speakers have greater output at a lower frequency than with a steeper slope, again listening for resonance. Then play with phase alignment. You might also find that you will be able to increase the output levels of the midbass drivers at this new setting and improve your tonal balance, transient response in the frequencies those speakers are playing, etc. Sure, you will likely have to use a higher lowpass frequency for your sub, but that is not necessarily a bad thing. Depending on your car, subwoofer placement, crossover frequency and slope, and phase alignment, you might find that you get excellent results with a gap of 10 - 20 Hz between the lowpass frequency of the sub and the high pass frequency of the midbass speaker. You will have to experiment. Listen to both the midbass speakers and the sub at the same time and play with the low pass settings, phase alignment and output level of the sub (you don't want it playing so loud that you have unwanted resonance) until you get them sounding seamless and well integrated. And, your appreciation of the Ultimo will be even greater. ;)
 

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Everyone wants to high pass midbass drivers at a very low frequency, but if they are mounted in the front doors, you will want to reconsider that. It's the rare door install where the speakers will not excite panels and plastic parts, thus creating resonance that will add distortion and coloration to the music to which you are listening. Here is something I recommend you do: mute all speakers except for your midbass and play music with a lot of low frequency information. With a 40 Hz highpass, you will probably be shocked at what you have been listening to. Now, increase the highpass frequency in 10 Hz increments until the resonance is about eliminated (listen to what happens around 80 Hz), and then change your slope to a shallower one so the speakers have greater output at a lower frequency than with a steeper slope, again listening for resonance. Then play with phase alignment. You might also find that you will be able to increase the output levels of the midbass drivers at this new setting and improve your tonal balance, transient response in the frequencies those speakers are playing, etc. Sure, you will likely have to use a higher lowpass frequency for your sub, but that is not necessarily a bad thing. Depending on your car, subwoofer placement, crossover frequency and slope, and phase alignment, you might find that you get excellent results with a gap of 10 - 20 Hz between the lowpass frequency of the sub and the high pass frequency of the midbass speaker. You will have to experiment. Listen to both the midbass speakers and the sub at the same time and play with the low pass settings, phase alignment and output level of the sub (you don't want it playing so loud that you have unwanted resonance) until you get them sounding seamless and well integrated. And, your appreciation of the Ultimo will be even greater. ;)

great info, will have to try this when I get a chance :)
 

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Please no one blast me for this....but I noticed there is a 8" version....no if the 8" plays tight as the 12, could it be used as a midbass driver? Thinking if that was paired with the 12's it would be a nice 1-2 punch.
 

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Trying to decide whic one of the following amps to get to power an ultimo 12

MCINTOSH MCC301M...600 WATTS @ 2 OHMS
ARC AUDIO SE2300...1300 WATTS @ 4 OHMS
ARC AUDIO SE2150...600 WATTS @ 4 OHMS
AUDISON LRX2.9... 900 WATTS @ 2 OHMS

Whats do you guys think.
 

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Trying to decide whic one of the following amps to get to power an ultimo 12

MCINTOSH MCC301M...600 WATTS @ 2 OHMS
ARC AUDIO SE2300...1300 WATTS @ 4 OHMS
ARC AUDIO SE2150...600 WATTS @ 4 OHMS
AUDISON LRX2.9... 900 WATTS @ 2 OHMS

Whats do you guys think.
I agree with Subwoofery. With the SE2300 you can get either the 2 Ohm or the 4 Ohm Ultimo and have sufficient power to drive either.
 

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thanks for the info, it seems that the se2300 is the way, id like to have matching amps so i think id be going with the se4200 for the piccolo tweeters and supremo 6 drivers. Thanks again.
 

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I finally got around to adding more power to my Ultimo 12 / 2ohm and it has improved my system in more ways than one!

Previous amp was a JL HD 750/1 powering the Ultimo in a 1.5cu.ft enclosure with poly fill added to increase the volume to approx 2.0 cu ft. This set up satisfied me for since Nov 10' but being cognizant of Morel's spec's and Buzzman' glowing review of the Ultimo in this thread for at least 1000 watts I had to step up give it a shot.

I recently bought a JL HD 1200/1 and put it on the Ultimo, and after a couple of MS8 calibrations and some EQ, I finally see where Morel, Buzzman and other Forum members recommendations stand. The difference is quite amazing in that I have a much more pronounced sub stage. The notes that are reproduced with the added power are much more articulate and detailed. There is a full completion of every bass line from beginning to end now that was not as apparent with the 750/1. The low-notes are also much more pronounced and blends much nicer with my front stage, not in the disappearing / no bass kind of way...But with a full bass that is strong but does not over-hang at all. I'm hearing bass notes that are reproducing practically dead center of the dash in my Lincoln LS and that applies to Stand up bass, Kick Drum, Synthesized and even the 808 Bass used on a lot of Hip-Hop tracks. It's all on the Dash. That would occur intermittently with the 750/1, but not with the presence and authority that I have now.

The last unexpected caveat to this experience is that some how my Midbass is more defined and powerful as well. Many MS8 owners have had issues with the Midbass reproduction with this DSP and some not...I am not saying buy an ultimo etc etc...but somehow adding the recommended power to this Sub has cleaned up one of the most finicky areas of my system which was moderate to thin midbass. ( if anyone can tell me something about how that works I would appreciate it because I was ready to buy some larger mids to compensate; but this latest modification has that idea on pending status now LOL.)

Overall, I just wanted to share this experience with those of you who have this Sub but may be on the fence about power requirements. If you can get 1000 watts(+) for this Sub, I doubt you will be disappointed. After almost 9 months I am finally hearing the output that this Sub has been touted to generate. And speaking of out-put it is much better as well...I dont have any DB measurements etc...All I can say that it's is louder but very very controlled, it's just great!

Thanks to Buzzman for his detailed reviews and recommendations and all the other contributors to this forum. Your input, experiences and even arguments (at times) are indispensable! Yep.
 

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* That sounds like the install I had using a 15" Aliante Subwoofer (accordion surround) install I did 5 years ago.

It was in an Aperiodic enclosure and only 3" deep> though the sub suffered in the mid 50-70hz freq's, it played very musicaly in the upper mid-bass area...that actually enhanced the midbass presence on my front stage such as yours very remarkably.

I'm planning on using an Ultimo in a Home Audio project...specifically for it's ability to play bass notes articulatly and with defined body and presence. ;)
 

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Yeah, I'm still pretty amazed...for nine months I was trying to enhance my midbass via EQ and MS8 Calibrations... I add more power to the same sub and I've got more midbass than ever...I don't get it...but I like it. :)
 

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Glad this review has been of help to folks on the forum. I periodically swap new subs in just to try something new. But every time I swap the Ultimo 12 back in I appreciate anew what a great sub it is, and how much better it is then anything else I have tried.

The Ultimo needs lots of power. Minimum 800 watts and ideally at least 1000 watts.


I finally got around to adding more power to my Ultimo 12 / 2ohm and it has improved my system in more ways than one!

Previous amp was a JL HD 750/1 powering the Ultimo in a 1.5cu.ft enclosure with poly fill added to increase the volume to approx 2.0 cu ft. This set up satisfied me for since Nov 10' but being cognizant of Morel's spec's and Buzzman' glowing review of the Ultimo in this thread for at least 1000 watts I had to step up give it a shot.

I recently bought a JL HD 1200/1 and put it on the Ultimo, and after a couple of MS8 calibrations and some EQ, I finally see where Morel, Buzzman and other Forum members recommendations stand. The difference is quite amazing in that I have a much more pronounced sub stage. The notes that are reproduced with the added power are much more articulate and detailed. There is a full completion of every bass line from beginning to end now that was not as apparent with the 750/1. The low-notes are also much more pronounced and blends much nicer with my front stage, not in the disappearing / no bass kind of way...But with a full bass that is strong but does not over-hang at all. I'm hearing bass notes that are reproducing practically dead center of the dash in my Lincoln LS and that applies to Stand up bass, Kick Drum, Synthesized and even the 808 Bass used on a lot of Hip-Hop tracks. It's all on the Dash. That would occur intermittently with the 750/1, but not with the presence and authority that I have now.

The last unexpected caveat to this experience is that some how my Midbass is more defined and powerful as well. Many MS8 owners have had issues with the Midbass reproduction with this DSP and some not...I am not saying buy an ultimo etc etc...but somehow adding the recommended power to this Sub has cleaned up one of the most finicky areas of my system which was moderate to thin midbass. ( if anyone can tell me something about how that works I would appreciate it because I was ready to buy some larger mids to compensate; but this latest modification has that idea on pending status now LOL.)

Overall, I just wanted to share this experience with those of you who have this Sub but may be on the fence about power requirements. If you can get 1000 watts(+) for this Sub, I doubt you will be disappointed. After almost 9 months I am finally hearing the output that this Sub has been touted to generate. And speaking of out-put it is much better as well...I dont have any DB measurements etc...All I can say that it's is louder but very very controlled, it's just great!

Thanks to Buzzman for his detailed reviews and recommendations and all the other contributors to this forum. Your input, experiences and even arguments (at times) are indispensable! Yep.
 

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^ So true! When previously running my 750/1 I was glad that the Ultimo performed so well with the power I had available at the time; but the xtra power now makes it shine! Thanks for posting the initial review!!!
 

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Has anyone been able to compare the 4 and 2 ohm versions of the Ultimo (ideally the 12s)?

Seems like it would take something like the JL HD1200/1 to do 4 ohms @ 1000 W. Compared to like the AQ1200D (supposedly 770W @ 14.4V 4 Ohms, so maybe 1000 at 2?) or even the AQ2200D just to be safe. The JL's specs on paper seem much better on paper but of course at quite the extra cost.
 

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Has anyone been able to compare the 4 and 2 ohm versions of the Ultimo (ideally the 12s)?

Seems like it would take something like the JL HD1200/1 to do 4 ohms @ 1000 W. Compared to like the AQ1200D (supposedly 770W @ 14.4V 4 Ohms, so maybe 1000 at 2?) or even the AQ2200D just to be safe. The JL's specs on paper seem much better on paper but of course at quite the extra cost.
Are you asking for some alternatives that do 1k+ @ 4 besides the HD?
 

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Are you asking for some alternatives that do 1k+ @ 4 besides the HD?
Well first I'm wondering if 4 Ohms vs 2 Ohms would really be noticeable or not, at a solid 1000W either way.

Some other 1000W 4Ohm amp suggestions would be great too though. I've come across a few like Hertz but they're many times more expensive, which surprised me since I keep hearing the HD1200/1 is relatively over priced. At [email protected] Ohms sure but for [email protected] it seems to be a half way decent deal from the alternatives I've seen so far.
 

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Well first I'm wondering if 4 Ohms vs 2 Ohms would really be noticeable or not, at a solid 1000W either way.

Some other 1000W 4Ohm amp suggestions would be great too though. I've come across a few like Hertz but they're many times more expensive, which surprised me since I keep hearing the HD1200/1 is relatively over priced. At [email protected] Ohms sure but for [email protected] it seems to be a half way decent deal from the alternatives I've seen so far.
Find a clean Phoenix gold ZPA0.5. Can be had these days for less than $400 and put out clean and controlled A/B power while being rated at 1000watts RMS+ at 4,2 or 1 ohm BRIDGED loads. (0.5 was rated at a conservative 300x2 into a 4 ohm stereo load)

The only down side is you do need an 8 volt line driver and mucho current for these amps. However you WILL BE rewarded with a nearly unlimited well of exceptionally clean power. On the bench I think these amps were well over 1200 watts RMS while being rated at a very low THD...
 

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Well first I'm wondering if 4 Ohms vs 2 Ohms would really be noticeable or not, at a solid 1000W either way.

Some other 1000W 4Ohm amp suggestions would be great too though. I've come across a few like Hertz but they're many times more expensive, which surprised me since I keep hearing the HD1200/1 is relatively over priced. At [email protected] Ohms sure but for [email protected] it seems to be a half way decent deal from the alternatives I've seen so far.
Try to find:
JBL BPx 1100.1
Zed Kronos
Stetsom V 1K5 H 1 or 2 Ohm - SSA STORE
OPTI500X2 - Lanzar Optidrive Opti500x2 2 Channel Car Amplifier - Lanzar

Kelvin
 
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