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Discussion Starter #1
Some of you might know me from my previous car. The 2011 Subaru hatch had a 3 way active front stage with two JL's dropped in the floor of the spare tire well. I really loved the car but it was time to move on.

Here is that build thread ---> http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/build-logs-project-install-gallery/108541-2011-subaru-wrx-hatch-build.html

So onto the next project! I picked up the CTS-V this past week and originally I was going to keep it with stockish audio. Then...I realized there are 9" driver openings in the front doors. Yeah...stock is not going to happen especially since I have hardware and Bose sucks.

So here is the plan.

RF 3sixty.3 for processing (from previous build)
Scanspeak Discovery 4" in the dash stock location (from previous build)
LPG aluminum tweeters in the a-pillar (from previous build)
Dayton Audio RS225-4 8" or Peerless 830667 8" in the stock door location
JL Audio 12w6
Hertz HDP 4 and PPI 900.4's from the previous build.

As of right now, I only have one large question mark. I have never pulled outputs from a stock Bose system to integrate with a processor. Do you guys just pull the speaker leads from behind the radio to the trunk then run new speaker wire to the components to get the signal? Or is there a more efficient way to do it?

Here is the car.








42/365 - Man Card by rsutton198 | oneninety8.com, on Flickr


41/365 - Chariot by rsutton198 | oneninety8.com, on Flickr
 

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Fantastic car. My brother recently purchased a 2009. Let me rephrase that... His wife, an engineer, just bought one. Ridiculous bang for the buck when it comes to performance. Sub'd for the build.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Fantastic car. My brother recently purchased a 2009. Let me rephrase that... His wife, an engineer, just bought one. Ridiculous bang for the buck when it comes to performance. Sub'd for the build.
Ironically, the only reason my wife signed off on this project was because she is going to get it when I am done. 700whp in the works. My wife is a mechanical engineer from GA Tech.
 

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Love the car Robb! Beautiful photos of a beautiful car.

Excellent equipment list, and knowing how good the Subi sounded, I'm sure the CTS-V will sound as good or better. I'll ask around to see if we can get an answer to your question. Looking forward to seeing this car in person!
 

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That is a one sick vehicle! and i've seen the subi install so...

Sub'd
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Wow, that's a sexy looking car! Hope the updates start flowing quickly!;)
I have most of the audio already so time is really the only thing holding me back right now. Eibachs, Kooks long tube headers, Kooks x-pipe and Corsa exhaust will be ordered tomorrow.
 

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Most of the Bose systems don't have a analog signal behind the radio. It is probably best to get it at the stock amplifier.

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk
Well thats actually not true. The Bose systems, at least in GM, have analog outputs in the rear of the stereo. Albeit they are usually low-level and in the CTS are usually just a singular left and right channel. There is not analog accessory behind the radio as its controlled via GM LAN.

With that being said, you can grab the signal after the amplifier or before but if my memory serves me correctly on this vehicle before the amplifier will be low level so it'll be best to make those into rcas. I personally grab the signal before any factory amplifier to reduce the chance of interference with the processing of the Bose amplifier
 

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Sick car. The photographs you took are great. What equipment did you use and processing?

As far as your midbass selection. Those Dayton Audio 8" are seriously lacking in the midbass region. I'd look elsewhere. The JL ZR800's are decent. I would like to try the CSS 7".
 

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Discussion Starter #14
So the big hurdles/questions with this build after researching is the following.

1. Pulling off the stock audio to the RF 3sixty.3. I really want to keep stock audio controls so I have to pull after the stock Bose amplifier and hope that the RF does the job. bertholomey and I have been talking today and he hit up his guy and he thinks I need to pull at least the tweeter, center, mid range, and woofer wires to get a full range signal. That makes sense to me and I'll be talking to him about that later this week in depth. (thanks man!)

2. Staging. Unlike my last build...I want this one to be more stock looking in the interior. My last build had the Scanspeaks and the LPGs featured, uncovered in the a pillars. The stock location for the 3.5 stock tweeters is all the way forward in the corners of the dash firing at the glass. It is looking like the a pillar is probably the best bet for running the tweeter portion of the 3 way (stock is 2 way)...so I guess I'll just have to see.

3. Keeping the front doors from rattling to pieces with a true 8" midbass with some power. The Bose system isn't going to be pushing as much as anything I throw in there.

Sick car. The photographs you took are great. What equipment did you use and processing?

As far as your midbass selection. Those Dayton Audio 8" are seriously lacking in the midbass region. I'd look elsewhere. The JL ZR800's are decent. I would like to try the CSS 7".
Thanks for the heads up. Any other options as well? I love JL stuff but I kind of like the other non-car audio typical options as well for surprise factor and cost/value.
 

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I have some experience adapting OEM Bose systems. Most relevant to your CTS-V being a 2009 Escalade that belongs to a friend of mine. What we've found is that there is, in fact, 4 ch analog signals coming from the head unit to the factory amp, but they are fixed and all volume, tone, fader and balance controls are done at the amp via data bus. So, basically, your 2 options are tap into speaker level outputs after the amp to retain all controls from head unit and steering wheel or, tap into line signals before the amp and use 3Sixty.3 knob for volume. My buddy chose to tap the speaker level outputs to feed his 3Sixty. We're also not sure if nav, chimes and turn signal indicators go through the head unit or straight into the amp. We ran into an issue with the chimes being super loud after the install and had to turn gains way, way down. Unfortunately, his 3Sixty died the day after install and he's waiting for RF to send him a replacement.


Well thats actually not true. The Bose systems, at least in GM, have analog outputs in the rear of the stereo. Albeit they are usually low-level and in the CTS are usually just a singular left and right channel. There is not analog accessory behind the radio as its controlled via GM LAN.

With that being said, you can grab the signal after the amplifier or before but if my memory serves me correctly on this vehicle before the amplifier will be low level so it'll be best to make those into rcas. I personally grab the signal before any factory amplifier to reduce the chance of interference with the processing of the Bose amplifier
 

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Well i was probably wrong about the out put being analog but at least i was right about not being able to use it. You could run the 360 off of the rears and add some sort of aux speaker to the front left channel of the factory amp to maintain nav, blue tooth, and door chime.

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I secured my midbass drivers today and I really just need to get the subs figured out at this point. I stopped by Sound Sensations in Marietta, GA and they hooked me up with a great deal on some ZR800-CW's. I have some TW5v2's out of my last car but I am pretty sure I am going to switch to the 12W6v3's for this build. I also have the LPG aluminum dome tweeters from the last build but I am pretty sure I am going to swap those out for the Vifa NE25VTS-04 1" Silk Dome Tweeters instead to get a warmer 3k+ Hz range.

Build List So Far

LPG 26NA Aluminum Dome Tweeters (Planning on black plastic sail on the door to keep a stock look and widen the sound stage)
Scan Speak Discovery 10F 4" Mid Range Drivers (in factory 3.5" location)
JL Audio ZR800-CW 8" Midbass Drivers (Factory Door Location)

Hertz HDP4 4 channel amp (powering the tweeters and midranges)
PPI 900.4 amp (powering the JL ZR800-CW's)
Rockford Fosgate 3sixty.3 Audio Processor
Audison Connection Power Block
0 gauge welding wire for main power and ground
4 gauge power and ground off block















I thought I was crazy when I bought the Peerless SLS's for the last build but these make those look small!

 
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