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Discussion Starter #1
my 2012 gti sq build

i thought i'd be able to tolerate the factory system in a new car, i can't. :lol:

goals:
- keep the spare and as much of the trunk as possible
- reuse what i can, and go active. i've had horns+mids passive w/ a 4ch amp since like 1998. it's time for something different with a bit more power. i thought about going w/ mids and tweets but horns just kept beckoning
- use socket machine screws where possible so this meant t-nuts, hurricane nuts, and the like
- also wanted to try my hand at tech flex. all stuff i've never done before
- keep main fuses accessible
- finish before fall semester

also, i'm on afternoons this summer so i'm up until 4-5am every day. i tried to do as much as i could in the basement after work.

- factory RCD310
- audison bit ten
- soundstream ref2.640
- soundstream ref4.760
- selenium d2500 8ohm in ID mini horns under the dash
- idq62 midbasses in the doors
- arc audio black 10" d4
- knu 1/0ga and 4ga wire, 12ga speaker, signal wires
- about a roll of old school raamaudio
- a box of ss damplifier b-stock

i borrowed the trunk layout from here. i tried to get two 10" back there but ran out of room for other stuff.

prep stuff:
- asked jayinmi test my old stuff
- modify screw-on horn driver adapters w/ 3-screw for 2-screw mounts
- stuff the horn bodies w/ reticulated foam
- connectors on stuff to make it easier to manage
- mounting rings





lined up nicely


try some foam inserts, patrick bateman style. foambymail.com is across town from me so i picked up some 1-1/2" thick reticulated foam








deans connectors, haven't used these since r/c cars when i was 13. i blame jayinmi and photogreg. midbasses are wired too but i'll upload pictures later.



 

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Discussion Starter #2
i usually play with these kinds of routers, never worked w/ a wood router. usually did things carefully w/ a jigsaw in previous installs. :lol: i borrowed a plunge router, bought a circle jig and some bits, and played quite a bit.


3/4" mdf and 1/2" birch, roughed up and glued together.


on to the trunk. i built a template from the trunk foam and floor carpet, cut from there. built up the sub enclosure.


1/2" birch to drive the t-nuts into.


construction adhesive and a sheetmetal screw to hold the t-nut in


box together, definitely ratty. carpet right? :lol:. i'm terrible at box building. it's sealed and supported.


amp deck is hinged to get to the spare and stuff underneath.


t-nuts everywhere! notch at the bottom is for the seat belt mount.


seems like a great place to stuff a 5 farad cap. the lower level will also have small fusing and relays for remote turn-ons and lighting


test placement of the gear.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
how the amp deck is mounted down in the back. the deck is notched to set down on the metal bracket and clear the nut.


planning for wire runs, philips screws are placeholders. ;)






whew. take it all outside for a last fitting.


passenger side door skin is already deadened from the factory but i put some old raammat on it behind the speaker and on the inner door frame.

i put 2 sheets of damplifier on the back of the door panel/card. (pictures coming).

vagcom-coded and dropped in a set of door warning/puddle lights too; while it's apart right?
 

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Sure, there are some rough edges there. I helped you make a few of them, so I don't see anything wrong there. :) I like the layout. It would be nice if there was more space to work with back there but what can you do?

I'm seriously looking forward to listening to those reworked horns. Back in the days of the 1st gen R/T those were _the_ brightest and best imaging drivers I'd heard. They are probably the reason I pay as much attention to audio quality as I do these days. So, Thanks. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #5
spent the afternoon on the car, passenger door is done.









door panel/card is deadened. trimmed back the plastic gasket around the speaker grille.





ready for the horns, started to tie everything down. signal wire from the HU down the passenger side with the speakers. i love the wire channels down the sides of this car.





 

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Discussion Starter #6
time to start the driver's door. here's the mounting rings, covered in truck bed liner paint t-nuts for the driver mounting. typical for both sides.













ran all the wires to the back. driver's side has speaker and power wire. i ran a remote turn-on just in case. while lab'ing the bit ten, i couldn't get the speaker inputs to trigger the DSP to come on.



figured out where to mount the inline fuse holder


back to the hatch area, here's a shot of the fuses, relays, etc.


sanded down a ground spot in the hatch. covered it in dielectric grease.


deadener in the hatch.


i'll do the driver's door panel/card tonight.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
i went to install the driver's side midbass yesterday and heard some rattling. i got the object to be visible through the voice coil vent, seems to be the voice coil vent screen! it had fallen off!

with a hemostat and patience, i got it out.




driver door midbass mounted.


driver door panel deadened and trimmed like the passenger side. i did a layer of 3m super80 on the fabric so the deadener would stick and made sure at least 2 edges of the deadener would touch other deadener or plastic. i need to revisit the passenger side for consistency.



that's all i could get done today before work. it's too hot out w/o a garage.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
the farad is little far from stock battery.is it good?
following the conventional wisdom for caps, it stiffens the audio system, not the rest of the car electronics or starting. therefore, it's mounted as close as possible to the amplifiers.

besides, it's not designed for all-weather environments and would get destroyed under the hood.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
have a question, how are you fitting a IDQ6 in there without having the speaker or the surround hitting hte grille on the door card!! :eek:
i know you ground down the grille a bit but still...
the IDQ62's excursion doesn't come out beyond front of the cardboard gasket so i should be safe. there's clearance between the door panel and cardboard gasket so i should be fine w/ the surround and cone.
 

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I told you there was more room in there than you thought. VWs typically don't have many clearance issues. :)
So what the hell was up with the one i did a few months back and the other mk6 on here w a hsk165 hitting? Or he guy in tx who had the shop chop he window mount to fit speakers? R there different door locations?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using Tapatalk 2
 

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Oh just to confirm u didnt touh that x shaped basket behind the speaker mount right? And u made sure the clips were snapped up before putting he door card back on? Because if u dontthe door cardwont sit flush and will be spaced out a lil...

Sorry to question u im just seriously miffed..

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using Tapatalk 2
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Oh just to confirm u didnt touh that x shaped basket behind the speaker mount right? And u made sure the clips were snapped up before putting he door card back on? Because if u dontthe door cardwont sit flush and will be spaced out a lil...

Sorry to question u im just seriously miffed..
the midbass clears the window track basket thing. 1-1/2" mounting surely clears the basket but rubs against the door panel/card. 1-1/4" clears the basket and the door panel/card. all the door panel/card clips seat all the way down too without causing any plastic stress. i forgot to plug in a connector yesterday on the driver's side and had to remove the door panel again, all the snaps were snug. (i hate it when those snaps get stuck open)

everything appears to clear.

i hope to get it all fired up tomorrow or tuesday and play some music to verify. my next challenge is the OEM battery posts, but i'm always leery of removing factory ones, especially on a car w/ < 3kmi on it. :). a trip to the hardware store before work, i got some m6x40mm bolts flange-head bolts and nuts. i'm interested in seeing your inline fuse setup from the mk6 you did.

the IDQ6 seems a different beast than what's currently on the market. i'll have to keep all this in mind if/when i decide to replace them. looking at the 4th picture in this post shows just how different the hertz midbass surround/gaskets are. looking in this post it seems to be a 1" spacer but stuartb doesn't indicate the depth.
 

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the midbass clears the window track basket thing. 1-1/2" mounting surely clears the basket but rubs against the door panel/card. 1-1/4" clears the basket and the door panel/card. all the door panel/card clips seat all the way down too without causing any plastic stress. i forgot to plug in a connector yesterday on the driver's side and had to remove the door panel again, all the snaps were snug. (i when those snaps get stuck open)

everything appears to clear.

i hope to get it all fired up tomorrow or tuesday and play some music to verify. my next challenge is the OEM battery posts, but i'm always leery of removing factory ones, especially on a car w/ < 3kmi on it. :). a trip to the hardware store before work, i got some m6x40mm bolts flange-head bolts and nuts. i'm interested in seeing your inline fuse setup from the mk6 you did.

the IDQ6 seems a different beast than what's currently on the market. i'll have to keep all this in mind if/when i decide to replace them. looking at the 4th picture in this post shows just how different the hertz midbass surround/gaskets are. looking in this post it seems to be a 1" spacer but stuartb doesn't indicate the depth.
One of the first sq set up i had was w idq6s...love em...

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using Tapatalk 2
 
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