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Since there isn’t a lot of info found searching the web on active crossover recommendations, I thought it would be really cool if everyone would post their favorites. I am interested in 2 price categories: available for under $150 (used is fine) and an unlimited category. Put as many in each category as you like, but rank them in order. Any comments would be fine as well.
 

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I really like my Coustic Ref DX-28, very flexable, older unit, can be found for about 100. 3way (mid, tweet, sub outs.....)

And you can't beat the 8053 active xover.....the only thing that would be better would probobly be the DRZ9255 which has 4way.....but thats right expensive.
 

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Didn't head units with built in crossover networks make xovers obsolete? Seriously what is the point of an external xover anymore? Just wondering.
 

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i picked up a PPI X3 on ebay for $40 or $50. not installed yet, but it has everything i need. 3-way 50Hz-8kHz with 10x multiplier and sub remote. not too fancy, not too expensive.

i'm not ready to dive in on a $700 headunit just yet. kinda waiting to see what 06 models offer, especially with satellite and ipod integration. kinda anti-sq but i sometimes spend a lot of time on the road. current head unit is an Eclipse CD5425, purchased before an active setup was even a twinkle in my eye!
 

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trains are bad said:
Didn't head units with built in crossover networks make xovers obsolete? Seriously what is the point of an external xover anymore? Just wondering.
I just can't bring myself to to toss out a perfectly serviceable 8 year old sony cd deck just because it doesn't have crossovers, so I scour ebay for bargains. Besides, I wanted to check that a Dayton RS180 and Northcreek D25 combination would work well in my MR2 without spending a bunch of money.

I purchased a Profile -California Q110 off ebay for $15.50 plus shipping. This unit has a variety of switch selectable crossover frequencies at 18db/octave.

The frequency selection switches are really bad. The low pass switch is mechanically intermittant and will go open when the toggle is wiggled in the 2.4 khz (lowest) position. Likewise the high pass switch is intermittant in the 7khz position. Additionally, one of the ground traces was blown when I received it so the output rca's were not grounded, leading to enormous alternator whine.

I took it apart to fix the open trace and found the board is a single sided through-hole assembly, meaning that if one were so inclined they could change resistor values, or even upgrade the opamps. Meh- I think I'll just look for an Audio Control 3xs or 24xs for cheap. I'd rather solder to dip headers than a cheezy single sided board any day.
 
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