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Discussion Starter #1
Well my first attempt at making a fibreglass sub box inside my spare tire has been an epic fail.
Check out my uploaded album to see the pics.
As you can see in the pics, I clearly overlooked the design of my rim where it has a ridge that once fibreglassed, there is no way of getting it out from that mould.
I noticed this after 2 layers of cloth, and my first layer of matt.
Now for the painful task of removing it from the rim.
My initial idea of green painters tape with Pam cooking spray also is not working out as planned.

I am determined to attempt this project again, but am hoping any advice or pointers from you guys will help make this alot easier!
 

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Blue scotch tape and tinfoil. The picks are not there so i cant help you with the lip thing
Dont spray any thing on it the tin foil will bond and at to glass..
 

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I checked out your album, and it's not a complete fail. You don't have to scrap that 100% by any means. Your tape job is fine. And since you haven't built up too much thickness you should be able to cut out the concave ring that is locking it in. I would score around that area with a utility knife and then pull out the part that is locking your mold in. Then pop the top and center parts out. Re-tape the whole thing, this time bridging the concave area, pop the top and center rings back on, and then proceed to lay more layers of mat.

As shown in the image: cut the current tub on the red lines, remove the area between there, and then just join the two remaining pieces together with a straight line instead of the concave one.
 

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Two layers of tape, two layers of foil. Works like a charm.

As for the shape problem, I would try bending and molding some thin cardboard (think cereal boxes) to make the shape a little less conforming to the rim.

Good luck on the next one, and don't get discouraged. "The path to success is often littered with failure."

Hope this helps!:cool:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for outlining my pic Daverulz, helps describe my situation. I'll try to carefully hack away at that ridge, just really trying not to scratch the rim.
As for the tinfoil/tape setup, do I tape up the rim first then spread a layer of tinfoil over the tape? Will it stay put for my first layer?

Thanks again for all the input, much appreciated!
 

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I did a spare tire the exact same way, no tinfoil, just two layers of tape running in opposite directions. Pulling the tub out of the rim took a bit of pressure around the edges, but once the tape started to release it was pretty easy. Once the tub came out of the spare I just pulled the rest of the tape off the back of it and was good to roll.

Not damaging the rim is the reason I'd do it with a utility knife. If you want to get more aggressive you could cut the whole thing like a pie. But no matter what you do you're going to have to cut that to get it out. I would use a utility knife because the worst that can do to the spare is scratch the paint. A dremel or saw of any sort has the possibility of cutting the rim.

It really doesn't matter how much you hack up what you've already done, you should be able to patch the parts back together so you don't have to relay that entire area again. That's the beauty of fiberglass.
 

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fiberlass doesnt stick to aluminum. which is why you should have covered areas in foil or used a release agent if you want to be able to pull it out easier.
 

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fiberlass doesnt stick to aluminum.
i disagree and have projects to prove it :)




the being said the aluminum is on the back side that no one will see so it never bothered me.
 

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The foil seems to only be stuck to areas which are darker, which means they are areas where more resin was used.

In general fiberglass does not stick to aluminum.

and yes its on the backside , then it really makes no difference either way unless u accounted for certain distances in the treatment area to account for material differences.
 

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The foil seems to only be stuck to areas which are darker, which means they are areas where more resin was used.

naa, that is just the ****ty camera i keep in the garage for build pics. it's really uniform all over, just that some parts stuck and some didn't. i think it had more to do with the foil not being completely flat in those areas so there was something to "bite" on.
 

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That's why I use two layers of foil. Foil dosen't stick to foil. Makes it alot easier to pull the mold.
My first ever attempt, alot of the foil "bit" into the resin. It didn't make any difference, but I've used a second layer ever since.
 

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release agents...
carnuba wax, Pam cooking spray, petroleum jelly...all cheap and work very well as a release agent.
Meguires makes a Mold release agent as well that works better bc the smell is a very heavy Pine scent that I am not fond of
 

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I'll have to look into the release agent. I've never tried any, but keep telling myself "I'm going to try it on the next one".
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I had sprayed Pam all over the taped area of my rim, and rubbed it around with a paper towel before applying my first layer. Maybe I ended up just wiping it all off instead, because I've tried to remove just that redlined area in the above pic, but pretty much have to destroy everything to get it out.
I just cant see myself being able to salvage the rest, as it seems glued to that tape and Ill never get it off once I rebuild the rest.
Im willing to take the hit and just rip it all out and start over.
I think I'll be using 2 layers of tape, plus 2 layers of foil so I know it wont be glued on like it is now!

Thanks again for the input guys, hoping to get this to finally work out for me!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
This link was my original plan for my project:
DIY: Spare Wheel Custom Fiberglass Sub Box
Im now thinking of redoing it this way instead, as the MDF ring will give me something to pull on when time to removing it from the rim. This pic is from "chad" in his 2007 for my Civic Si build thread.
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y231/cwahls/Civic Audio/Hatch Build/100_1538.jpg
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/build-logs-project-install-gallery/23845-2007-my-civic-si.html

What do you guys think?
 

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i tried all sorts of release agents, never warmed up to foil, i find doing the foil portion of the project annoying and time consuming :)

and after all sorts of agents, i have always gone back to good ole vasaline. cheap, super easy to apply and Guaranteed to release every time, each time, without fail.

the bad part? i have to spend 5 mins with simple green to degrease the mold afterwards...and my hands feel slimy for a while, but i think it acutally does my skin good :D.

no stranger look than what i get when i go to the store to buy vasaline and rubber gloves...and when i tell em its for a car...the look gets worse.



bacl to the IP...well, if its thin enough just friggin rip that thing apart. i am not so sure you can save that. if you go with a dremel and cut the concave part out, you may end up tearing things apart and spend hours on it.

oh wait, i just read you did that :D
 

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fiberlass doesnt stick to aluminum. which is why you should have covered areas in foil or used a release agent if you want to be able to pull it out easier.
resin sticks to everything, some less than others, but with enough surface area and friction, anything can become imposible to remove resin off of. I like bings idea with the lubricant, vasoliene is used in many fields for a buffer. ever done anny costume work? its used for plater moldings of people..my cousin learned this the hard way when we did a plaster mold of his ENTIRE body for a project he was doing...he's not a hairless man by any strech of the word :laugh: he's ittalian acualy so you can only imagine, but i'll tell you what i was rolling on the floor when he was crying, because i told him the whole time it was a bad idea. lesson learned my friend, lesson learned lol
 

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resin sticks to everything, some less than others, but with enough surface area and friction, anything can become imposible to remove resin off of.
I'm sorry, but you are simply wrong here.

Mic and Bing both offered solid recommendations to try. I have and do use each of those techniques depending on what size/shape of project I'm working on. Both work beautifully if used in the right situation. Well, the vaseline thing works great 100% of the time. But for large projects with a lot of flat areas it's easier to use foil IMHO.
 

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I'm sorry, but you are simply wrong here.

Mic and Bing both offered solid recommendations to try. I have and do use each of those techniques depending on what size/shape of project I'm working on. Both work beautifully if used in the right situation. Well, the vaseline thing works great 100% of the time. But for large projects with a lot of flat areas it's easier to use foil IMHO.
i'm sorry but you're not arguing with me, you're arguing with chemistry.
 
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