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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
My first car set up, opinions? And subwoofer suggestions?

Hey guys, just joined the forum :smoking:.

Bought my first car about a year ago (1996 ford mustang), wish i would've gotten an SUV but didn't have the money. Anyway i just started getting into car audio not too long ago. Thought i'd post some pics of my system so far and i have some questions.

In the back of my car i have a pair of Infinity 6912M 6"x9" 2-way marine speakers



In the front doors i have Polk Audio MM571 5"x7" 2-way car speakers



In hindsight i have no idea why i skimped out on the door speakers and wish i would've went Infinity's all the way around. :shame: They hit the highs pretty nicely though. :p

My head unit i have is the JVC Arsenal KD-A725



This is what i have installed so far.

I was looking around for an amp, but my buddy had one in his closet that he never hooked up because he only needed one of them. Brand new still in original packaging, and i got it for free...

JL Audio e4300
440 watts, Class A/B 4-Channel Amplifier



I don't know anything about this amp but its JL Audio so i would assume its high quality.

I also have another amp, but its old school...

1998 MTX Thunder 2300x




I also bought a Scosche 1600 Watt Amplifier Wiring Kit with 0.5F Digital Stiff Cap

I was gonna hook up the JL Audio amp to my speakers (probably just the back ones) and then once i get subs i'll hook up the MTX amp to my speakers and hook the JL Audio up to the subs.

What do you guys think? :confused:

Also what kind of subs do you suggest? I have a small trunk but i measured and i can fit 2 10'' subs ported.

Suggestions, comments, opinions, or anything would be very helpful :nice:
 

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Question: Why do you have marine speakers?
Another question: Why do you have 6x9s where 5x7s should be?
Suggestion: That JL amp is probably the best part of your mediocre system.


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Get yourself a 10w3v3. I'm very impressed with mine.
 

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you can fit 12s in the trunk of the mustangs (i own a 95 GT) Just have to build a box to fit.

The MTX 2300 is a great sub amp! And the JL will easily run those door and rear deck speakers.

My question is with the above, why did you go 6x9 instead of replacing it with the 6x8 that is in there?
 

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Re: My first car set up, opinions? And subwoofer suggestions?

In hindsight i have no idea why i skimped out on the door speakers and wish i would've went Infinity's all the way around. :shame: They hit the highs pretty nicely though. :p
not sure the polk MM series is a "skimp" over infinity. I think you will find you will like those more than the infinitys. those "highs" can get pretty bright after a while.

not sure I would have gotten the amp wireing kit. for th emoney, you can ussualy buy the components you need for cheaper and get better stuff, but for a first time, meh.

get yourself some subs and start learning ;) you've taken your first step into a larger world!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Question: Why do you have marine speakers?
Another question: Why do you have 6x9s where 5x7s should be?
Suggestion: That JL amp is probably the best part of your mediocre system.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I don't know man. I have a lot of regrets with what i bought, but there's no going back. My first mistake was crutchfield, its an awesome site, products, service, all top notch. But i over paid a lot. The polks are marine speakers too, other than being water resistant, it's the same as regular speakers right? I put 6x9's simply because i wanted bigger speakers, thought "the bigger the better" Should've just went with 5x7's i know.

Suggestion: That JL amp is probably the best part of your mediocre system.
And why you gotta be such a dick about it? I know nothing about car audio, this is my first system and my first car.

not sure the polk MM series is a "skimp" over infinity. I think you will find you will like those more than the infinitys. those "highs" can get pretty bright after a while.

not sure I would have gotten the amp wireing kit. for th emoney, you can ussualy buy the components you need for cheaper and get better stuff, but for a first time, meh.

get yourself some subs and start learning ;) you've taken your first step into a larger world!
Should i return the wiring kit? Its still unopened. Oh and is the cap worth it? I've heard tons of people say that they're useless, and they actually put a bigger strain on your battery/alternator.

The MTX 2300 is a great sub amp! And the JL will easily run those door and rear deck speakers.
You're saying that i should run the sub off the MTX and the speakers off the JL? I thought the JL was more powerful

Why is everyone stressing the fact that i put 6x9's in instead of the factory size?
 

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You seem to be pretty set with the amps, but they way you plan to use them is backwards. That jl probably puts out somewhere between 40-70 watts a channel x4 that mtx when presented with a 4 ohm mono load will give you a solid 900x1. But it really is up to you do whatever you think sounds best to you. I dont know why everyone is giving you such a hard time, we all started somewhere and for your first set up you could've done a lot worse.
 

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Hello, return the wire kit along with the cap. Sell off the 6X9 rear speakers, keep the JL amp along with the MTX amp both are fine pieces. After doing this get yourself a subwoofer, no need for rear speakers in my opinion in this type of car. When you have all of this you just need the small things to bring it all together. Please feel free to ask as many questions as need be and welcome to your newest addiction.
 

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Should i return the wiring kit? Its still unopened. Oh and is the cap worth it? I've heard tons of people say that they're useless, and they actually put a bigger strain on your battery/alternator.




Why is everyone stressing the fact that i put 6x9's in instead of the factory size?
nah, by the time you return it, you will have lost whatever you gained. just use it, its your first install. dont bother with a cap. it wont put a bigger strain on your alternator, but it wont do anything worthwhile either ;)

they will just be harder to install is all. the extra 1" of length and more depth can be a ***** to get in there. if you are comfortable cutting a little, you can get em in there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
Hello, return the wire kit along with the cap. Sell off the 6X9 rear speakers, keep the JL amp along with the MTX amp both are fine pieces. After doing this get yourself a subwoofer, no need for rear speakers in my opinion in this type of car. When you have all of this you just need the small things to bring it all together. Please feel free to ask as many questions as need be and welcome to your newest addiction.
You really think i should sell my rear speakers? I was actually considering it but i thought it would be a bad idea. I wanna have rear speakers though, i was just going to get a different kind. The ones i have now are really flashy looking and i hate it, i like it to be discrete.

Edit: Here's some pics of the rear ones, i already have em wired and everything and they were a ***** to get in.


Couldn't get a good pic from outside because its blizzarding here
 

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they look nice. rear speakers are just not that necessary for a high end car audio system.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
they look nice. rear speakers are just not that necessary for a high end car audio system.
Oh i always thought rear speakers were like a necessity. So, take out my rear speakers, leave the door ones in to hit the highs, and put subs in to hit the lows. And i have those 2 amps so, put the mtx on the subs and the JL on the speakers?
 

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Oh i always thought rear speakers were like a necessity. So, take out my rear speakers, leave the door ones in to hit the highs, and put subs in to hit the lows. And i have those 2 amps so, put the mtx on the subs and the JL on the speakers?
Yes, but rears are up to you. Lot of people say no, but you can use them for a midbass array if you band pass them, and some run rears, some run them with passengers back there. I run them about half speed, full when I am outside the car as I can hardly hear music with just the fronts if outside the car. I also have passengers some of the time and it gives you midbass if you are weak on that, as common with 5x7. Some process the sound and run rears only for effect with special signals. If they are bright it is a good idea to tone them down, even if you have to put some felt over them or otherwise cover the tweeters. That is because if the highs are louder than the lows from them you will have to turn them down, and then you will not get the midbass from them. My current car I was lucky they are in the rear doors and sit couple inches behind the grills, that keeps the highs in back mostly. There are other ways to cut the highs if its a problem.

You should have at least a 4 gauge wire for the amps. The cap will not hurt but its not going to make the amps work any better. I have one I bought cheap and still not in my car lol, I was playing with it on the test bench. I have a 5ga scosche amp kit, its good for 1Kw total or so, though I have all class D right now that takes less. But I don't rock it wfo hardly at all.

Your fronts should be the best sounding speakers, but try them and see what you get. At minimum put some deadening around them, if you don't have budget get some peel and stick from a hardware chain (like gutter repair tape) and use that its like $6 for a small roll.

Your speakers will sound better with the amp, get the JL on all four. A class D takes less power but the MTX is a great amp and will run subs easily. If you end up not wanting rears you can bridge the JL on the fronts just be careful not to toast them.

IMO bigger is better for woofers, I've had nice systems with 6x9 in front. I think most average 6.5 or smaller suck in midbass and are half azz. If they didn't you would not see people dropping midbass drivers and expensive 6.5 in their cars. You use your sub for midbass and it sounds like midbass from the trunk.

Far as sub you have brands you like? What kind of bass you like? People here can offer some good choices given power you have and type of music/sound you like, room you have, etc.
 

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^^ good advice the past couple of posts. Take some time to research and check out some build logs. It'll give you an idea of what DIYMA is really about. Mostly, this is not your everyday "night bumping" crowd.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Yes, but rears are up to you. Lot of people say no, but you can use them for a midbass array if you band pass them, and some run rears, some run them with passengers back there. I run them about half speed, full when I am outside the car as I can hardly hear music with just the fronts if outside the car. I also have passengers some of the time and it gives you midbass if you are weak on that, as common with 5x7. Some process the sound and run rears only for effect with special signals. If they are bright it is a good idea to tone them down, even if you have to put some felt over them or otherwise cover the tweeters. That is because if the highs are louder than the lows from them you will have to turn them down, and then you will not get the midbass from them. My current car I was lucky they are in the rear doors and sit couple inches behind the grills, that keeps the highs in back mostly. There are other ways to cut the highs if its a problem.

You should have at least a 4 gauge wire for the amps. The cap will not hurt but its not going to make the amps work any better. I have one I bought cheap and still not in my car lol, I was playing with it on the test bench. I have a 5ga scosche amp kit, its good for 1Kw total or so, though I have all class D right now that takes less. But I don't rock it wfo hardly at all.

Your fronts should be the best sounding speakers, but try them and see what you get. At minimum put some deadening around them, if you don't have budget get some peel and stick from a hardware chain (like gutter repair tape) and use that its like $6 for a small roll.

Your speakers will sound better with the amp, get the JL on all four. A class D takes less power but the MTX is a great amp and will run subs easily. If you end up not wanting rears you can bridge the JL on the fronts just be careful not to toast them.

IMO bigger is better for woofers, I've had nice systems with 6x9 in front. I think most average 6.5 or smaller suck in midbass and are half azz. If they didn't you would not see people dropping midbass drivers and expensive 6.5 in their cars. You use your sub for midbass and it sounds like midbass from the trunk.

Far as sub you have brands you like? What kind of bass you like? People here can offer some good choices given power you have and type of music/sound you like, room you have, etc.
Thanks for all the advice man, i think i'm gonna end up leaving the rears in, just because they were such a pain to install, still unsure though.

As far as the subs go, I listen to all kinds of music. I mostly want some really deep hard hitting subs for rap, but i also want bass for dubstep music and thats a little faster bass than the rap songs. How hard is it to install a switch next to me so i can turn the subs on and off? When i'm listening to classic rock, or something where i don't wanna hear huge bass drops. As far as space goes i know i can fit 2 10's without a custom box. Someone said they fit 2 12's in their mustang with a custom box but i didn't really think 2 12's were necessary, i was just gonna go with 2 nice 10's. My budget for a pair of subs is about $300 - $400, but if you guys can suggest some nice subs that are cheaper than this price range that would be awesome. The power i have to run them is the mtx amp, so if you guys could help me find something that would run well with that amp. Oh and do you guys think i have enough air flow to put regular subs in my trunk? I was looking into free air subs because the space seemed a little small. Again i don't really know much about this any advice would be very helpful everyone
 

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Oh i always thought rear speakers were like a necessity. So, take out my rear speakers, leave the door ones in to hit the highs, and put subs in to hit the lows. And i have those 2 amps so, put the mtx on the subs and the JL on the speakers?
for me, I think it is easier to get a good solid image with only speakers that come in front of you. rear fill can be used if you limit the freq to midbass freq only. tweeters behind you is a no no IMHO. it drags the image and staging to the rear of the car, not where you want it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
for me, I think it is easier to get a good solid image with only speakers that come in front of you. rear fill can be used if you limit the freq to midbass freq only. tweeters behind you is a no no IMHO. it drags the image and staging to the rear of the car, not where you want it.
Yeah i got the tweeters in the door speakers. This may sound like a strange question but if i leave my rear speakers in and then hook subs up, will i have to re wire the rear speakers because the bass will be going to the subs or ?

Could go with RE Audio SRX/SEX's 10", or something like this Dayton Audio RSS265HF-8 10" Reference HF Subwoofer 8 Ohm 295-442, if you're trying to buy online
Yeah i was looking to buy online, there's only like one good car audio place by me and they're really over priced.

Here's a couple i was looking at...

MTX TR5510-44 TR55 Series 10" subwoofer with dual 4-ohm voice coils at Crutchfield.com

Kicker 10CVR104 CompVR 10" subwoofer with dual 4-ohm voice coils at Crutchfield.com

and here's a more reasonably priced one i was looking at

Infinity 1060w Reference Series 10" 4-ohm subwoofer at Crutchfield.com

What do you guys think? I wanna make a good decision on the subs and not mess up like i did with the rest of the system.
 
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