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Discussion Starter #1
Okay, so I am finally getting around to installing my stereo. I installed a system in my car, then decided I wanted more after joining this website. It's like a drug, I bought a whole bunch of equipment, and before installing that, I changed my mind and ending up buying more equipment. So now I am finally ready to install since I have some time coming up and I decided to do a log since I wanted to share with you guys and also get your input. So without further delay.......

The car:
2007 G35 Sedan


Current system:
Stock Non Nav Head Unit...wish I could change this out somehow but no kits were made for it yet.
3sixty.2
Rockford Fosgate 25 to Life Power 1000
Rainbow 6.5" SLC Comps running Passive up front
Some DLS coaxials for rear fill
12" Diamond TDX sub

Now I said I gathered up stuff...first I bought all this:
All Zapco amps Reference Series
1000.2 for sub
650.6 for 3 way active front
350.2 for rear
Then bought a 1000.4 for god knows what..just wanted it, would've fit it in somehow.
Audison bit one
Zapco Competition 6.5"s
Some Hybrid L3's
And other random stuff

All this time, I really wanted Zuki amps cause they were kind of unknown, especially here in Hawaii. I just had all that Zapco stuff already so I didn't want to tie up more money. About a week before installing, a member on here put up his 3 Zuki Eleets for sale. Needless to say I couldn't pass it up so I bought them. Sold of some Zapco stuff but I still have a few things left from that, maybe keeping it for nostalgia. Lol!

So as of today, this will be my install. Not changing....maybe...something always catches my eye.



-Still rocking the stock Head Unit
-Audison Bit One
-2 Zuki Lne Drivers (only because I'm running stock Head and wanted a cleaner stronger signal..and I kind of fell in love with the Zuki brand)
-2 of the 3 Zuki Eleet 4's
-Zapco Reference 1000.2 for sub or could drastically downsize and use the 350.2 I have also.
-Front Stage: Zapco Reference KT6.25 Tweets
Dynaudio 142 Midranges
Dynaudio MW 180 for Mid Bass
-Rear fill: Rainbow SLC mids, or some Peerless SLS I have.
-Still deciding on the sub

The main goal I wanted was to have a stealth system so everything will be going in stock locations. Fortunately, the G35 has a 10" opening in the door from the stock system. In the pic, you can see the black carpeted board things are sitting on. I am planning a false floor in the trunk because I have kids and a stroller needs to fit in there sometimes. This was a must because the trunk in small as it is. I just used the stock trunk floor cover, traced it onto 1/2" Plywood, cut it out, carpeted it. Since it is OEM integration, I can just use the leads that went into the 3sixty.2 from the previous install. Just need to run an extra set of speaker wire from the front for my tweets. Power and ground are already there (0 gauge from previous install). Ah...almost forgot, here is the pic of the distribution block. Audison block, Power and Ground in one block....biggest distro block I have ever seen!!! Fits my needs for a clean install though.



That's it for now. Any suggestions/comments, feel free to chime in. Will definitely need help with tuning later with crossover points but I'm here to learn.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks guys. Currently lining the trunk. Hope to finish up this weekend and have some pics.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yeah, the sedan starting from that year is when Infiniti changed everything. Sucks cause the coupes that year have kits, but the sedans don't. Thanks for helping me look though.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Just got my ccf material in yesterday. Stage 2 of the deadening process. Doing the front doors first. Pics to come. Some Raamat and CLD tiles for the first layer. My first full deadening project so bare with me, it's a learning process.
 

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i love the system in my G37. my install log is somewhere on here. if u need any tips, hit me up. what a great car!!!
 

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I just started on my G35 build too. I'm kind of back and forth with the deadening process. I've done the trunk, passenger side front door, and finished up the rear deck last night. I'm subscribed, I love our car and I love to see others' ideas and what they do.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks guys. I want to deaden just once. I don't want to have to go back and ad more deadener later. I love our cars too. Just wish mines could change out the stock head unit. I'm going for the full stealth look with most of the trunk space available to fit a stroller and some groceries..haha..working on the false floor now. There's going to be a lot of wiring going on but I like trying to make it look clean, even though people won't be able to see it unless I show them.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
omg...it's been awhile. I've done some things here and there so here we go. This is my first foray into actually deadening. I knew it wasn't easy, but damn...what a pain!!!! Never seemed like enough time...either daylight was fading, places to be, kids to watch. I started in the trunk. I'm keeping everything in there, spare tire and tools.


 

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Discussion Starter #13
After cleaning the surface with alcohol, this is it taking shape. Trying to cut pieces to fill little gaps takes time.



This is it pretty much done. What thought would take a couple hours tops turned into the whole morning.



Here is the trunk floor finished with the spare and tools placed back. I did the trunk lid too and the rear quarter panels but my hands were all covered with sticky stuff and I didn't want to get it on the camera.

 

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Discussion Starter #14
Now it was time to tackle the doors. I was going to take the easy route and just do the little panel behind the door card. Decided I might as well go all out since I have the materials and I'm taking apart the door anyway.



Cutting little strips took a lot of time and effort. The Sound deadener showdown cld tiles are quite thick. Takes a little effort to cut through.



MLV cost way too much to ship to Hawaii. Had to think of other alternatives. Ended just using a neoprene foam thing. Used in sound booths so I wanted to try it out here.



Same treatment on both doors. Again the hands were tired, sore, and sticky so I didn't take too many pics of the process. Drove around the next day with no stereo to the store. I can honestly say it was a lot quieter in the cabin. Couldn't hear the exhaust as much, I guess from the trunk treatment. Doors didn't rattle and the ambient noise was gone. Felt and sounded like I was sitting in the library. Was well worth the effort. Highly recommend deadening doors and giving them proper treatment.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Pics to be taken soon of the false floor and speaker install. Whole different adventure.
 

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Looks GREAT so far. You are a brave man taking off that door access cover, either that, or I'm a puss. Just got through deadening my doors and I left the cover hanging there by the motor and cables after removing the 4 shiney bolts. I was afraid if I took it apart, that I wouldnt be able to get it back together. But, I was still able to line the whole inner skin with deadener and sqeeze a roller in there. I'm looking forward to the rest of the pics and will be posting a thread on my build progress so far. Nice work!
 

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Discussion Starter #19
ahhh. We have the same body style so this should help if your wanna redo your deadening. I did the same thing as you. Removed the 12 black bolts holding the black door skin and the 4 shiny screws. I pryed and pulled and was left like you. The damn window motor hanging and window track off. But the door skin seemed stuck. I thought that was a bunch of BS so I dug and dug on the internet. After an hour or so. I got someone to send me the actual service manual of our cars. The one's the dealership techs use to troubleshoot anything and everything step by step. Soooooo here ya go:

1) Remove the factory 10 in speaker from the door. Now From the speaker hole, follow it straight across towards the door handle side. There is this black sticker looking thing...kind of a textured look. Remove that and you'll have a little hole there. This is funny part that made me feel really dumb. Plug in the window switch to the plug to allow you to control the window up and down. Turn the ignition on in your car to get power, now depending on the window position, make it go up or down and look into the hold you uncovered. You will see a screw pass through it at a given window level. Stop the window when you can get a straight shot into the hold to remove the screw. At this level, there should also be a screw visible where you took off the speaker. Take these 2 screws off. That is it! Don't even touch those 4 shiny bolts..those connect the window track to the door skin. From here, you can slide the window up with your hands and take it off completely. It takes a little finess to get it out but you can also remove the molding where the window comes out of the door. Then you just remove the 12 black blots on the perimeter and lift the door skin up and out to let the window track clear. You don't have to worry about the track being off. Actually unplug the window switch after removing the glass. With no power to the motor, the track stays where it is. Then deaden everything in there. And do opposite of removal to re-install everything.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Might be worth your while to get to that outer door skin. After deadening it, I did the knock test and it's night and day. Sounded like I was knocking on hardwood after. No vibrations at all.
 
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