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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Headunit: Clarion DRZ9255 (doesn't do 8v or Sirius satellite, but I loved my DRX9255 too much to go with anything else)

tweeter: Vifa XT19 (in dash/A pillars)
mid: Aura NS3 (in kick panels)
midbass: Seas W18 (in doors)
Sub: Eclipse 12" aluminum (dual 2 ohm)

Butler TDB 475 (run to the tweeters and mids)
Butler TDB 2150 (run stereo to the midbass and mono to the sub- caps/inductors to passively cross over at around 60Hz or so)
 

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I have seen many comments against using the Aura NS3 in kicks due to ineficiency. Most want to put them or recommend it on the dash or A-pillars... IIRC...

Also, if installation ease is a factor the LPG tweeters are definitely worth your consideration...

But overall I think your driver selection looks good, just be sure to do some testing in various possible install locations to get the best from your drivers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I might use the Seas W12 for mids in kicks. Should match well with the W18 in the doors. Low effeciency is my only worry with the Auras.
 

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You already have those amps?
Would love to see some pics (in/out) when you do... Sexy Mofos I bet ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
no amps yet. still buying it piece by piece

-edit-

only problem with LPG tweeters is that I would have to use a 3000-3500 Hz xover frequency. I am trying to keep my xover frequency around 2000 Hz, especially if I go with the Seas W12 mid (instead of the Aura)
 

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i would recommend my old setup.

Two Tube Driver Blue 475's, one for mids and tweets, the other bridged on the midbasses.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
10K2HVN said:
i would recommend my old setup.

Two Tube Driver Blue 475's, one for mids and tweets, the other bridged on the midbasses.
not too far off with the single 2150 on midbass. Should be putting out at least 120 watts per side. I think that will be sufficient for the midbass drivers. Plus, that would make me have to buy a separate sub amp.
 

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sheepdog said:
Butler TDB 2150 (run stereo to the midbass and mono to the sub- caps/inductors to passively cross over at around 60Hz or so)
oh..i see...

well, good luck with the passives then...
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
10K2HVN said:
sheepdog said:
Butler TDB 2150 (run stereo to the midbass and mono to the sub- caps/inductors to passively cross over at around 60Hz or so)
oh..i see...

well, good luck with the passives then...
would 250+ watts (bridged 75x2) be enough to run the sub? I could go with a pair of the 475's (keeping it all active) and when I get the 2150, run the midbasses off the 475.

not ideal for a sub rated at 400 watts cont./ 800 watts peak, but would it work?
 

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I wouldn't run the TDB2150 like that. You should just have it run your midbass. Running a passive set up like that you lose some of the power and I don't think it'll be as clean as if it was just a dedicated sub or mid bass amp. You're better off just buying a cheap A/B amp for your sub as you probably won't notice a difference or benefit from the Tube sound on subs. I ran a Phaze Audio TD1500 on some subs and latter switched between a few A/B amps and noticed no real SQ difference on subs. Besides the Tube amps have a low end roll off.

Ryan
 

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oh how i miss both of them....

i would run a two-way with a 475 and a sub amp till i have enough for a another 475...

Yes, it does effect the midbass, making it slightly rounder and musical..
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
what would be a good 500-600 watt amp for the sub? Considered the 500/1 JL amp. Should I stick with a solidstate sub amp (won't play more than 1.5-2 octaves). and use the 475's for everything else? Probably start with a 2 way at first. Seems most reasonable.

I found a 500 watt (RMS) sony amp at Crutchfield for $199. Wouldn't be permanent. Start off with the Seas w18 and a tweeter (still thinking...) run off of the TDB475. Run the sub off the cheap Sony. Save up and buy a TDB 2150 to run the sub. Still considering if I need a 3 way or a 2 way.
 
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