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Discussion Starter #1
i installed it today in the doors of my scion xb and here are 3 pics i took of the process,I have to say that damn its some serious stuff,,you better darn well make sure that you want it to go where you are putting it before you do because its some seriously sticky stuff,always check and measure and check again before yopu cut,than its time to apply,when all was said and done i listened to the stock system and i have to say that it made an extremely huge difference for the better,especially in the midbass region,i am extremely pleased with it,my only complaint is I wish they would give me enough to cover my whole car because its probably gonna take me a while to save up to get the rest of what i need to finish it,thanks again for the giveaway,
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Discussion Starter #4
Welcome to the Alpha Damp fan club Lou. :thumbsup:

Just wondering if you were going to the NorCal event this weekend in San Jose?

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/12-volt-events-team-diyma/130061-northern-california-diyma-meet-june-30th-2012-san-jose.html

Bret
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i am definately gonna try but i have a federal dot safety meeting at my work that is mandatory because i drive truck for a ;iving and my wife has a dog club event afterward,but i am hoping she cancels it,if she does i will be there:cool:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
not gonna be able to make it ppi,we have a therapy dogs picnic to go to right after my safety meeting,i hope there is another meet soon though because I would love to check out somne serious systems and get to know a few of you guys,:)
 

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the darkside is loud
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There's always a next time. ;)

Bret
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Did you really need to put that much Alphadamp? I thought the reason why AD was special is that it is much more dense, therefore you only need to cover 20-25% of the surface area.
 

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Did you really need to put that much Alphadamp? I thought the reason why AD was special is that it is much more dense, therefore you only need to cover 20-25% of the surface area.
His personal choice I guess.
Good to see that 10mil aluminum will lay down like that. :D

Bret
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Did you really need to put that much Alphadamp? I thought the reason why AD was special is that it is much more dense, therefore you only need to cover 20-25% of the surface area.
Did you really need to dump on a guys install.... a month after the last post? :rolleyes:
 

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I was not dumping on it, I actually ordered a box of alphadamp out of curiosity and it is in transit. I have some time tomorrow so I wanted to research it a little more to see if I should spend the time to take my door panels out this weekend and prep them to apply the AD later next week.

The reason I asked why he covered the doors completely is that I was taught to apply this stuff to the doors with the woofers playing, so I can feel around and get a sense of where to apply it.
The only one time I had to apply it everywhere, and several layers of it, was when I was using some cheap no-brand stuff that actually turned out to be roofing insulation of some kind.
 

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I've used this stuff in the past: SHEET LEAD 1/4"~16 LB./SQFT

16 pounds per sq ft. It did NOT apply easy, but if AlphaDamp is sound deadening material, lead sheet is sound genocide material.
Did it noticeably help with vibration? I've considered lead in the past in place of MLV, but figured it wouldn't do so well with dampening vibration.
Obviously it'll add mass and help a little, but thought of it as only a barrier.

1/4" lead ...that's crazy! Lol the lead I was looking at was thin ( don't remember thickness, but under 1/8") to equate to 1lb -2lb per f2 same as MLV. The thin thickness was why I was thinking about it, easier to get behind panels and them still fitting.:D
 

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Did it noticeably help with vibration? I've considered lead in the past in place of MLV, but figured it wouldn't do so well with dampening vibration.
Obviously it'll add mass and help a little, but thought of it as only a barrier.

1/4" lead ...that's crazy! Lol the lead I was looking at was thin ( don't remember thickness, but under 1/8") to equate to 1lb -2lb per f2 same as MLV. The thin thickness was why I was thinking about it, easier to get behind panels and them still fitting.:D
You gotta make sure its a very tight fit (i.e. no space between the sheet and the substrate) and that you use good glue. I think I used something called green glue, but TBH, I don't remember.

I used 1/8 sheets, actually.

It took FOREVER to apply. As to whether it worked.... like I said, if all of the other stuff is sound deadener, lead sheet is sound genocide. It kills everything. The side effects are that it is really heavy, expensive and very painful to apply. Also (and the most annoying one for me) is loss of cell phone signal if you like to put your phone in the door pockets.

I have also used lead tape (not the kind used for golfing, but same concept) with some success.

However I think new products specifically made to treat cars are the way to go. While brute force, like molding and gluing lead sheets will work, I think we've all seen in the past few years that you can achieve the same result by adding very little weight using the right products.

That said, one of my cars actually came from the factory with lead sheets cemented to certain areas of the cars. It seems to work pretty good, as there is very little other insulation in there and it's a car that's known for having a very good noise floor.
 

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the darkside is loud
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You gotta make sure its a very tight fit (i.e. no space between the sheet and the substrate) and that you use good glue. I think I used something called green glue, but TBH, I don't remember.

I used 1/8 sheets, actually.

It took FOREVER to apply. As to whether it worked.... like I said, if all of the other stuff is sound deadener, lead sheet is sound genocide. It kills everything. The side effects are that it is really heavy, expensive and very painful to apply. Also (and the most annoying one for me) is loss of cell phone signal if you like to put your phone in the door pockets.

I have also used lead tape (not the kind used for golfing, but same concept) with some success.

However I think new products specifically made to treat cars are the way to go. While brute force, like molding and gluing lead sheets will work, I think we've all seen in the past few years that you can achieve the same result by adding very little weight using the right products.

That said, one of my cars actually came from the factory with lead sheets cemented to certain areas of the cars. It seems to work pretty good, as there is very little other insulation in there and it's a car that's known for having a very good noise floor.
:eek:.......:surprised:.......I'll stick to cld thank you.

Bret
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