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Discussion Starter #1
Good evening, I recently replaced my component set for 2 reasons I bought a used set of JBL MS62C's and the spider on the woofers both eventually failed and while I was having my windshield replaced one of the installers slammed a tweeter in the door(mostly my fault as they were only held on with double sided tape and I guess they had to move them to install the windshield).

I loved that component set. It was a pretty much plug and play set that sounded great without having to do too much. However, they are now really hard to come by.

So, ended up buying Image Dynamics IDQ-CS because they were readily available and I've heard good things. However, I think I may have goofed. I don't think I have enough amp to power the mids.

The tweeters sound okay and they are less acute than the JBL's but they ARE SUPER LOUD!

Here is my current setup


  • Stock HU
    2 Dayton Audio NS270-44 10" Neodymium Low-Profile DVC Subwoofer
    Image Dynamics IDQ-CS 6.5" Component set
    Pioneer GM-D8601 Class D Mono Amplifier
    Pioneer GM-D8604 Class FD 4-Channel Bridgeable Amplifier
    No DSP or EQ
I have the gain completely down on the tweeters but they are just overpowering to where it is hard to listen. I've got the gain set to the best of my abilities on the subs and mids. The subs are crossed at 80hz and the frequency on the component set is handled by the IDQ crossovers and both LPF and HPF are off on the tweets and mid bass amp. I'm running the amp for the components in 4-chan mode.

Can someone possibly help me with the tweeter issue?

Thanks in advance!
 

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Have you tried using the jumper setting on the crossovers themselves to attenuate the tweeters that way? I found the manual online which gives all the recommended jumper settings and such here: MANUAL

I think that could help with your tweeter being so loud and correct your issue.
 

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Good evening, I recently replaced my component set for 2 reasons I bought a used set of JBL MS62C's and the spider on the woofers both eventually failed and while I was having my windshield replaced one of the installers slammed a tweeter in the door(mostly my fault as they were only held on with double sided tape and I guess they had to move them to install the windshield).



I loved that component set. It was a pretty much plug and play set that sounded great without having to do too much. However, they are now really hard to come by.



So, ended up buying Image Dynamics IDQ-CS because they were readily available and I've heard good things. However, I think I may have goofed. I don't think I have enough amp to power the mids.



The tweeters sound okay and they are less acute than the JBL's but they ARE SUPER LOUD!



Here is my current setup





  • Stock HU

    2 Dayton Audio NS270-44 10" Neodymium Low-Profile DVC Subwoofer

    Image Dynamics IDQ-CS 6.5" Component set

    Pioneer GM-D8601 Class D Mono Amplifier

    Pioneer GM-D8604 Class FD 4-Channel Bridgeable Amplifier

    No DSP or EQ


I have the gain completely down on the tweeters but they are just overpowering to where it is hard to listen. I've got the gain set to the best of my abilities on the subs and mids. The subs are crossed at 80hz and the frequency on the component set is handled by the IDQ crossovers and both LPF and HPF are off on the tweets and mid bass amp. I'm running the amp for the components in 4-chan mode.



Can someone possibly help me with the tweeter issue?



Thanks in advance!


Do the component's xover have any kind of attenuation switch for the tweeters? Some do, but I'm on mobile so I didn't google them.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Ooops...forgot to mention that. The manual that you linked to is actually for the CXS components and not the IDQ-CS's. It's an error on the ID website.

The component set I've got only has one option to attenuate and it is either -3db's or -6db's. I currently have them attenuated to -6db's.
 

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Did you place the tweeters in a new location by chance which could be causing reflections? Kind of a far shot, but never know.
 

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Time to go active?

Or at least time to use a 3 way electronic crossover before the amp?

Something like a Memphis X03, G&S Designs GX3 and I think there is a somewhat referenced Coustic xover around as well.

When used in 3 way mode the crossovers will give you a Band Pass setting for the mid and a Hi pass filter for the tweeter, as well as volume control - the biggest benefit you will get with this setup. Being able to tame the tweeter and filtering the signal before the amp instead of after.

Pretty cheap solution and my biggest pet peeve with a 2 way passive setup.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yes, actually I did, the JBL's had a mount that had a 45 degree angle on them. When they were in the vehicle they were aimed off-axis, aimed up at a 45 degree angle and roughly running left-to-right.

The ID's did not come with such mount so I've tried them only 2 ways so far. I tried them mounted on the A-pillar but they we're aimed at each other directly across from each other and they straight-up sounded terrible. I think some cancelling was occurring.

They are currently set up to where the tweeters are pointing straight up and I'm sure they are reflecting off the windshield but it's a marked improvement from the other way. This might not be ideal though. I can try some other options.

I drive an '11 Ford Escape. It has a pretty flat dash. There are 2 side panels between the door jamb and on the dash that house fuses and electrical from the Ford factory. It is also where I've tucked my wires to keep them out of site. I'm pretty sure that the cavity is large enough for me to shove the tweeters in there. I'm seriously considering it if I can't figure this out. :p
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Time to go active?

Or at least time to use a 3 way electronic crossover before the amp?

Something like a Memphis X03, G&S Designs GX3 and I think there is a somewhat referenced Coustic xover around as well.

When used in 3 way mode the crossovers will give you a Band Pass setting for the mid and a Hi pass filter for the tweeter, as well as volume control - the biggest benefit you will get with this setup. Being able to tame the tweeter and filtering the signal before the amp instead of after.

Pretty cheap solution and my biggest pet peeve with a 2 way passive setup.
The Pioneer D8604 has an LPF and HPF option. Is this not comparable? I don;t know I'm a relative novice.
 

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These will allow you for example to run your mid 80hz - 2500hz and your tweeters from 2500hz up.

The main benefit to you will be the volume control for the tweeters.

Your amps crossover is only selectable between 40-500hz, which will not allow you enough protection for your tweeter (if it went up to 2500-5000hz you would be covered from running too low of a frequency into the tweeter) without the passive crossover to protect it.

Your setup would go radio --> crossover --> amplifiers.

Before I had a DSP I was doing just that and was actually quite happy with my sound.

It really IMO would be a good benefit and allow you to tame the tweeters without going all out and getting a DSP.

I paid $20-$30 for the 2 crossovers I listed above.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks Sine, I will look into picking one of those up. Do you think this situation could be happening possibly because I don't have enough headspace on that amp for the mid? I like the fact that I can get a 3 way xo for around $20 but do you think swapping out the d8604 for more power is ultimately a better option?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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That amp does do decent power though 100RMS x 4 at 4 ohms, 150RMS at 2 ohms and 125 at 1 ohm.

The problem is you still need to level match your speakers. If the tweeter is much louder than the mid, you need to lower the level in order for them to match.

If you want to see if power is the issue, run the 2 way off of bridged channels

ie bridge channel 1/2 and feed the bridged output to the passive xover then feed the mid/ tweeter from the xover. You will have plenty of power then, but I assume you will still be loud on the tweeter.

For me an unbalanced tweeter leads to listening fatigue very fast.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
That amp does do decent power though 100RMS x 4 at 4 ohms, 150RMS at 2 ohms and 125 at 1 ohm.

The problem is you still need to level match your speakers. If the tweeter is much louder than the mid, you need to lower the level in order for them to match.

If you want to see if power is the issue, run the 2 way off of bridged channels

ie bridge channel 1/2 and feed the bridged output to the passive xover then feed the mid/ tweeter from the xover. You will have plenty of power then, but I assume you will still be loud on the tweeter.

For me an unbalanced tweeter leads to listening fatigue very fast.
Yup that's exactly what I'm dealing with. Looking to order a crossover now. Thank you for your help. I will follow up once/if I get it sorted. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #13

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The passive xovers on that CSX set offer a lot of flexibility, as already mentioned. This is the manual

The passive allows you upto 7db attenuation AND you can select the -6db point for the tweeter. See if you can get the CSX passives from somewhere and just swap with your current passives. Set the tweeter level to -4 db and set the -6 db frequency to 4 khz. See if that sounds better.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
The passive xovers on that CSX set offer a lot of flexibility, as already mentioned. This is the manual

The passive allows you upto 7db attenuation AND you can select the -6db point for the tweeter. See if you can get the CSX passives from somewhere and just swap with your current passives. Set the tweeter level to -4 db and set the -6 db frequency to 4 khz. See if that sounds better.
Right, but I've already stated this. I do not have the CSX model. I have the CS's and they are different, with a different crossover. That link on the ID site is messed up. It links from the CS page to a CSX manual. The CS crossovers only have one attenuation setting @ either -3db or -6db. I've got mine at -6db.

As far as getting some CSX crossovers. I will look around but they could be hard to come by. Does anyone know of a truly cheap 3 way electronic crossover? I've yet to find one for $20 and the ones I've found for $40 are typically from **** brands.
 

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Using my tweeters in pillars I had to attenuate quite a bit between gain knob and EQ back before I had processing. Here's an option if you can use the HPF on your amp in conjunction with the "sub output" you could bandpass and effectively had tw, midrange, and midbass if needed. I don't know about the quality.

American Bass ABX31A 3 Way Active Crossover w/Remote Bass Knob & 20k Ohms | eBay

Then there's something like this too but you're getting more expensive...it'll take more research because I don't know much about their modules.

Linkwitz-Riley 3-Way Active Crossover Kit - 24dB/Octave - Electronic Kit | eBay
 

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I should have mentioned thats what I paid for them used.

I never really check the classified section here (I might see something I like)
 

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The American Bass would work though.

If they work for those guys with all the Super Tweeters, they should be fine for yours!

Frequency range goes up to 8k / 18 db slopes
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I800C0LLECT thanks for the tip, Sine, thanks for the re-assurance. I went ahead and bought this unit off Ebay. Ran me $50 and some change. I will let y'all know how it works out. Thanks for all the help. :)
 
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