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4,981 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey guys,

As most of you know, I am a big fan of fake floor installs…the primary reasons behind this are the facts that fake floor builds take up less amount of usable cargo space and can be hidden out of view from potential thieves.

Over the years, I have probably done hundreds of fake floor installs of covering a wide range of complexity, sound quality and cosmetic flashiness…and I am very pleased to say that just recently, after spending about 2.5 month, I completed what I consider my ultimate fake floor install to date. What I mean by this is simple, the customer had the vehicle space, monetary budget and fine appreciation for music that I was able to achieve almost everything that I value in a car audio install.

The car is a brand new 2012 Hyundai Genesis 4.6L Sedan, and before I start, I want to make sure the following people are thanked for their invaluable support along the way:

  • Scott my ORCA rep for helping me set up a sponsorship package with ORCA and for being simply the best rep I have ever known
  • Duane and Nalaka from Orca for giving me the opportunity to showcase their gear, and especially Duane for helping me countless times along the way with great tips and advice
  • Clay my Stinger rep and the people at Stinger for offering their support on the project
  • Derek with Nav-TV for helping me with the video source on the car
  • Various great installers from around the country for offering up their advice and helpful tips along the way
  • Jesse aka killasharksj for helping me with parts of the build
  • Our very own Shinjohn for lending me his rivet nut gun
  • The folks at Silicone Valley laser for their precision laser cutting services
  • William of Williams autobody in San Mateo for once again coming up with a beautifully finished product
  • The folks at for supplying me with their awesome LED strips
  • Many guys on this very forum that showcase their knowledge and skill from which I gleaned valuable info for the project
  • And last but not least, Lars, the customer, who I have become good friends with, for trusting me with his new car and giving me the opportunity to do the install I have always wanted to do

There were many goals for this project:
1. Achieve a high level of sound quality, both for daily listening and for competition purposes
2. Strong focus on attention to detail during the build so the car can be competitive in install judging
3. Retain the car’s ability to serve as a daily driver by still retaining a reasonable amount of trunk space and the ability to keep everything hidden
4. Obtain a decent amount of cosmetic flashiness so it would stand on its own in a car show

Lets get started, shall we? Because there are almost 600 pictures in this log, I am going to divide them into sub categories, so the flow of the read may be slightly different than my typical build.

One thing I do want to mention is that for the second time, I have decided to utilize ZERO screws…every single thing in the install is secured via some type of bolt or cap bolt into an insert or rivet nutsert. The final tally:
Rivet Nutsert: 26
Threaded Inserts: 211
Bolts: 238
Washers: 47
Lock washers: 54

What this means is that for every single occasion where a screw could be used, I had to measure, center punch, drill, sand, insert, sand again and vacuum…taking roughly about a minute to 2 minutes per item. Thank goodness for my OCD that I actually got some enjoyment out of it! (you will see the inserts circled in red throughout the build)

Also of note is that every single piece of wire in the car has been covered in checkered flag techflex sleeving, with heatshrink termination…with the exception of one cable, which had ends that were too thick to pass sleeving through, that cable is protected by split loom throughout the car.

Lets start off with some pictures of the car itself…With some light mods to it as I received it:


4,981 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
Completed Interior

First I installed a radar mount for his passport RD:

This car had the technology package and features a MOST linkage between the headunit and the amp. So the OEM source unit had to be retained. Signal processing is by a Mosconi 6to8DSP, and the customer supplied me with un-connected Andriod phone to act purely as a master controller upfront. The unit allows instant on the fly changes to master volume, subwoofer volume, fade/balance and presets. The large screen is nice to use while driving and the Bluetooth function works great, automatically connecting each time the system is powered up. I utilized a Pro-clips mount for their high quality and easy access while driving. It is position so that the customer doesn’t even have to really look down to make adjustments while driving after getting used to it. I also used a hardwire version so that whenever the car is turned on, it will charge the phone.

Looking infront of the shifter, this is the door that slides open to reveal his ashtray:

But now, when you open it, it shows a small panel with three things on it. An IR eye for a Pioneer DVD changer (more on that later), a switch to engage and disengage his OEM center channel, and another switch for his electric exhaust cutout for when he wants to hear the rumble of the TAU V8 (See video below). The holder is flocked in black to match the interior of his glovebox:

In the armrest, there is a plug that allows an Apple device or an external video source to be fed into the stock system. The car is supplied with a cable that plugs into this port on one end and a Apple jack on the other. The 3.5mm mini jack is responsible for video input, and after much trial and error, I realized that Hyundai uses a proprietary ring configuration on their 3.5mm, meaning almost no other aftermarket cables will work (I tried 5 none of which worked properly)…so instead, what I did was take one of the OEM cables apart, cut off the Apple jack, and soldered it to a video rca cable coming from the DVD changer. Here you see that cable coming in through a grommet and into the oem port. The reason why I did it this way is so the customer can choose to unplug it, and plug in his Iphone on a regular basis:

Here is the view of the DVD changer screen loaded onto the OEM display:

The reason why there is a DVD changer in the car is that I was concerned about the ultimate SQ of the oem signal source, since it’s a MOST system with no pre-amp adaptors current available, we had to tap the signal AFER the stock amp. To ensure that ultimately, this does not affect the car in judging, a Pioneer Premier XDV-P9 was utilized, set in stand lone mode and essentially provides a audiophile quality secondary signal source with its onboard 24-bit DACs. To switch from OEM signal source to the DVD changer, one simply has to press a different preset o the phone controller, and turn the OEM headunit to AUX IN, and then use the supplied Pioneer DVD remote for playback functions.

Front stage in the car is a set of Focal Utopia Berylium No.7 3 way component set. The midbass were mounted into the doors, and the midrange and tweeters reside in an A-pillar pod.

During the build process, I experimented with several configurations of aiming and location, including a full dash pod, a pillar pod that has the speakers running up the pillar, etc etc but in the end, there was a fundamental issue with most of the placements. If the speakers are aimed low or pushed too far back, the reflection off the instrument shroud causes a phantom second center image to show up on some songs.
In the end, I came up with a solution that has the speakers aimed high above the shroud, firing basically at the rear view mirror area. This resulted in the best imaging and staging with very little deficit on tonality during my positioning tests.

This was one area that stealthiness was not a factor, we decided early on that sound quality is the number one priority here.

So here they are, the entire pillar was shaped and then done in custom mixed flocking fibers to achieve as close of a match to the OEM color as possible. This was definetly one of the more difficult mods I have had to do but it turned out pretty well in the end.

I also made grilles that would cover the speakers in normal every day usage. A lot of effort was spent to make sure the fit and finish is precise:

In order to maintain a cosmetic integrity throughout the interior, the B and C pillars were also stripped, sanded, prepped, and flocked:

As promised, here is a video of the exhaust bypass cutout in action.


4,981 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Door Speaker Build

Before I got into the build pics of the door, I want to say Hyundai REALLY has done their homework when it comes to putting together a great interior. Not only is everything very solid and rattle free, the ease of which this car comes apart and goes back together is REMARKABLE. Every panel is held in by high quality clips that doesn’t break or loose shape, and things are done in a logical manner so that every panel you remove leads to the screws and clips that frees the next one in the process. BRAVO!

So firstly, right off the bad, I encountered an issue, there were no free slots in the door molex plug with enough room to run the pair of 12 gage cables into them. Cutting into this new car was not in the option list, so after doing some analyzing, I figured out an alternative. TWO PAIRS of OEM cables are run into each door, one pair for the woofer and one pair for the midrange and tweeter. Each cable is roughly 16 gauge, so what I did was to combine them into a single pair of signal wires. This way, the equivalent gauge is right inline with the stinger 12 gauge wire I am using for the Focal Midbass.

Here you see the two pairs of OEM cables on the driver side door trimmed out:

They were then connected to the Stinger 12 guage wire and heatshrinked:

And protected by an additional layer of heatshrink:

On the door side, I intercepted the OEM cables as early as possible to keep their run as short as possible:

They are hooked up back to Stinger wire the same way and protected:

The OEM woofer is riveted in, so I had to drill it out, here you see the remnants of the rivets:

I measured, drilled and installed 4 rivet nuts:

These are the spacer rings I built for the Focal midbasses, with threaded inserts in them for attachment:

They were then coated with 5 layers of truck bedliner spray, and here they are with the bolts to be used to install them:

The door then received a layer of second skin deamplifier pro, and behind the speaker cavity, I laid down a piece of Focal Blackhole FIVE sound proofing material to help eliminate back waves:

The ring spacer baffle was then installed, and a layer of butyl rope wrapped around the edges to seal it properly against the door:

The Focal midbass was then wired up:

And installed into the baffle:

The same procedure was then performed on the passenger side:

The OEM door card already had a thick layer of jute material on it that worked great at blocking noise and eliminating panel buzz, so this was retained and no foam used. I did however, put in a bunch of deamplifier pro to help kill resonance:

Overall, the doors sound great, zero buzzing or resonance and the midbass has excellent performance, very snappy quick and full of impact.

4,981 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Pillar Build

Moving onto the build pics of all the pillars. First I removed all three pairs of pillars from the car, they are covered in a foam backed grille mesh like material that was REALLY hard to remove:

After about half a days worth of cursing, scraping with my finger nails, grinding and sanding, I managed to strip all of them:

As mentioned before, I tried out various aiming positions and locations for the A pillar speakers, the last one worked the best and I based my mold off that:

To ensure that the A pillar pods had a high degree of precision throughout, I routed out a whole bunch of pieces for it…some of which acts purely as presses so that when the fiberglass is curing, it would hold its shape with no warpage:

These are the primary pieces of the pillar pod, two mounting baffles, and two top grille pieces. Note I sunk a total of 8 al-ni-co magnets into them so they would be held on during spirited driving yet not be so tight to make it impossible to remove.

The base baffle then had a flush mounting wall of low heat plastic attached to it:

And about two hours of aiming and reaiming later, I secured them at the proper angle to the A pillars:

Grille cloth was then pulled across the shape, resin applied and allowed to cure. Close to 2 liters of durglass/resin mixture was then poured into the pod to render it extremely solid:

Then I shaped the mold with filler and sanded it down smooth…perhaps one of the most difficult shapes I have had to sand…took a full day just for this process:

The interior walls of the pods then received first a layer of modeling clay to kill resonance:

And then an additional layer of deamplifer pro to add additional mass and also to help secure the clay in place:

The pillars were then painted with grey primer so that no colors would bleed through the flocking:

And they were then flocked with a custom mixed fiber set from DonJer Flocking Fibers Supplies Suede-Tex Soft Flock Rayon Nylon Spray Applicators Kits Adhesive Cars Decoys Rods

The Focal utopia tweeter cup was then press fit into the opening on the baffle with a small dab of hot glue:

And then the pillars were installed back into the car via OEM clips and bolts, and the Focal midrange and tweeters wired up and secured:

For this build, I also wanted to make sure that the grilles themselves are fully finished, so no glue or staples can be seen. So they were a two piece design. With a 3/8” lower portion and a 1/8” top portion.

The top portion, which will be wrapped in black grille cloth, was painted black for consistency in color. The bottom parts were trimmed to fit around the mounting screw heads on the speakers andt hen coated with resin to seal it up:

The bottom potions were then painted with grey primer:

And then flocked:

The top portion, meanwhile, was wrapped in high grade grille cloth:

The two pieces were then bonded together using JB woodweld, for a finished product that is pleasing to look at from either side:

After that, I turned my attention to the B and C pillars.

Here you see the B pillar sanded smooth after a layer of body filler:

And then coated with primer and flocked:

The same treatment was then applied on the C pillar panels:

This is easily the most amount of time I have ever spent on an interior of a car…but in the end to me and to the customer, it was well worth it.

4,981 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Misc. Interior Build

This section covers the other items built in the interior that isn’t purely speaker related.

First is the ashtray switch panel. Here is the OEM astray:

The panel consists of two pieces, a top portion that is a ring and matches the opening of the stock ashtray, and a lower portion for the switches…quite a delicate task to get right as they both extremely small:

After some filler and sanding, the two pieces were smooth:

They were then bonded together using JB woodweld:

And test fitted in the center console:

The piece was then coated with a layer of resin to seal it up so it doesn’t absorb the glue for the flocking fibers:

And hit with black paint for color consistency:

It was then flocked with black fiber, and when that dried, it was test fitted against in the car…it presses right in and stays in place like a glove:

Here are the switches wired up with quick disconnects and ready to go:

And the switches sunk into the panel:

Here are the wires that lead from the interior of the car for the two switches, as well as the IR eye for the Pioneer DVD changer, which flushes into the bigger opening on the panel:

This is the new cable I made up for the AUX video in, by cutting and soldering the OEM Ipad/Iphone cable with a standard RCA cable:

Here is that cable being routed through the center armrest, ziptied to OEM bundles every few inches, and then passing through a grommet:

Here is the Pro-Clips phone mount with hardwire option I used:

And I also added a Video In Motion module from Nav-TV so that the DVD changer screen can remain on even when moving:

One thing I wanted to do with this car was to make it into a vehicle capable of doing SQ2 two seat judging. And since the OEM source unit utilizes a version of the Logic 7 surround processor (altered from the MS8), I decided to wire up the OEM center channel speaker so we can turn it on and off. This way, by tapping into a different pre-set with altered time alignment functions, flipping the switch to power on the OEM center channel and turning the Logic 7 surround ON in the menu selection, we can go from a single seat vehicle to one that does admirably well for two seat listening.
So here is the OEM center channel:

The negative wire leading to the speaker plug was cut and then reconnected to a pair of wires that lead down to the switch in the ashtray and then the speaker installed back in place:

Moving on now to sound proofing of the rear deck…here is what the deck normally looks like:

The OEM subwoofer was removed to gain a nice and big port into the trunk for the subbass to come through:

The focus was put on the rear deck cover as it tends to have the most rattles…so first went on a layer of deamplifier pro:

Followed by a layer of foam to help isolate it from the metal below:

The metal partition in the trunk opening was also removed, and covered with damplifier pro and installed back into the vehicle:


4,981 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Interior Wiring

As mentioned previously, every single cable and wire in the install has been covered in black and white checkered flag techflex. Here are the speaker cables for the midbass (12 gauge), midrange and tweeter(14 gauge)

The other three cables that runs through the interior is the remote turn on lead, the video rca cable from the DVD changer, and the IR eye lead for the DVD changer. As mentioned the IR lead had ends that are too big for sleeving, so it was wrapped in split loom:

The speaker wires were labeled, a theme that continues throughout the build:

Lets start with the driver side, moving from the front to the back…first, the midrange and tweeter wires fed into the A pillar area:

A fuse is tapped here which supplies power to the electric exhaust cutout, note that even non audio related cables were treated the same way:

All six pairs of speaker wires were run down the driver side, this is due to the fact that the car’s stock main power line connecting the alternator and the trunk battery runs down the passenger side, so any signal cable should stay as far away from that as possible. Here you see the bundle in the kick panel area:

As the bundle travels towards the back, it is ziptied to the factory loom every 2-3”, it also routes through the factory plastic conduit at the B pillar, and continues all the way to the rear deck area where it passes through the same grommet as the OEM wiring bundle:

Onto the passenger side, first the A pillar:

Wiring on the passenger side kick, which has quick disconnects for easy trouble shooting, the same quick disconnects are present on the driver side but tucked away behind the dash.

A fuse is tapped on the passenger side kick panel to provide charging power for the Andriod Phone/Controller.

The passenger side speaker wires, the Video RCA cable from the DVD changer, and the IR eye lead is routed behind the glovebox towards the center of the car and the driver side. The bundle is also ziptied to factory wiring every 4 inches or so. The two quick disconnects seen there is for the phone charger, this way, if we ever need to swap to a different phone and thus different hard charger, we only have to redo the wiring portion prior to this.
The blue heatshrinked part ist he connection between the video rca cable coming from the DVD changer and the Ipod/USB to video cable I made.

While the other cables ends in the center of the car, the passenger side speaker wires continue towards the driver side where it meats up with the driver side speaker cables at the kick panel as seen before. Again, secured to the car every 4” or so:

Here is the bundle traveling down the passenger side of the vehicle, treated the same way as the driver side, it contains the IR lead, the Video RCA cable and the remote turn on lead.


4,981 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Completed Trunk

Moving onto the main focal point of the build…the trunk. As mentioned, I wanted to make this my ultimate fake floor install. To that end, I had to fit a huge amount of equipment in the trunk and still make it stealthy, durable and completely usable. Of course, given the amount of gear and the sheer size of the product we are using, some cargo space had to go. So the entire floor was raised up to the height of the trunk opening.

I also wanted to incorporate a small surprise for people (more on that later)

So lets take a look. Here is the normal view. We had a thick custom trunk mat made that covers and protects the entire install. Nothing can be seen what so ever:

Remote the cargo mat and here is what you see, a new fake floor with a very large center cutout, all trimmed in black carpet that has been dyed to match the slightly lighter OEM trunk carpet:

Remove the breathable grille and you are exposed to a very large trimmed well. Four Mosconi Zero amps power the entire system. If you haven’t seen them, the Zero are the new top of the line amps that sits above the AS series. They are bigger wider, features a brushed aliuminum finish, have more built in fans are overall a step up on the AS in every way.

At the front of the trunk, two zero 3s are lined up side by side, each amp sends out 2x 270 watts RMS to each Utopia midrange and tweeter. At the bottom, are two Zero1s, the left one powers the utopia midbass with 2x 450 watts RMS, while the right one powers the subs with 3000 watts RMS in normal mode, and close to 5000 watts in hyperdrive mode for brief instances! Yes this customer does want to do some SPL comps once in a while.

Speaking of the subs, they are the relaunched Illusion audio brand, and have yet to be released. These are the top of the line Carbon XL 12” subs, fresh pulled off the assembly line and air mailed to me. These subs have an excellent blend of output and SQ and can take the brunt of the Zero1. I also love the carbon weave cone.

Everything is trimmed in a panel that flush mounts the products and is painted to match the exterior of the vehicle. Anyway, its not meant to be super crazy looking, just clean and classy. here are the pics:

The rack on the passenger side of the trunk secures the pioneer premier XDV-P9 dvd changer, which as mentioned, is a secondary pure signal source, the little display next to it is the IR eye for an LED controller.

You will notice that there is a plexi border around the opening of the well, well of course that lights up with RGB million colored LED strips…lets take a look at it in a darkened garage from various angles:

So normally, that would be the end of the show…well for this car, I wanted to do something different. I have always felt that even though I spent a huge amount of time and detail on the wiring, if will almost never be seen by anyone checking out the car. Well that was going to change. So here is what can be done. The white painted board is easily popped off, and in doing so, it reveals a secondary well that is also fully finished, this time in 3M brushed aluminum wrap. Every wire has been covered in checkered flag techflex and properly terminated, and its all proudly on display. So here is the secondary “surprise” display:

You will also notice that there is a second clouded plexi border lower in the well, this also lights up and is meant to highlight the wiring and the floor. There are a wide variety of lighting mods from the controller and the two lighting rings can be the same color or totally different…lets take a look at this again in the dark:

To better demonstrate the effects of the lighting and the overall trunk, I made a lil video for you guys:


4,981 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Signal Analysis

Before I get into the build pictures of the trunk, I wanna run through the various signal analysis I performed during the build.

As with any vehicle that requires tapping after the OEM amp, having a good understanding of the stock signal is vital. In the Genesis Lexicon system, the OEM amp has three outputs that will be utilized. They are the midrange/high channel, the door woofer channel, and the subwoofer channel.

Using my TrueRTA and Fast Track Pro, here are the measurements I took at the amp speaker outputs.

Midrange and high:

Door woofer:


The subwoofer and door woofer signals were sent to the Mosconi HLA-Sum device, and here the analysis of those two signals combined after adjustments:

The OEM tweeter channels were fed into channels 1/2 on the DSP, while the summed signal from the HLA-SUM were fend into channels 3/4. Using the mixing and input EQ feature on the 6to8DSP’s software, I was able to achieve a signal that looked like this at the RCA output of the DSP, not too bad considering where I started from:

The signal from the DVD changer is fed through channels 5/6 on the DSP…just for giggles I also analyzed this line signal…little surprised, it didn’t need any adjustments. Hehe:

One thing I noticed was that the OEM master volume control did NOT alter the signal output on the amp, which was very surprising. But here is the plot comparison of that, the lower line is at volume 15, middle at volume 30 and top at volume 40…note that the response is virtually identical, just at different levels. This means that we can use the stock volume knob as the master volume control with little issue.

After my initial tuning session, I basically came up with three separate presets.

Preset 1: Driver oriented two channel, OEM signal source set to LOGIC 7 OFF, center channel speaker turned off. This is the daily listening mode. The final curve here as measured by my dual mic RTA setup looks like this, again this is just a preliminary tune:

Preset 2: Two seat listening, OEM signal source set to LOGIC 7 ON, center channel speaker turned on, time delay and levels were adjusted to effect as good of a sound stage as possible for both seats. This is the end result curve:

Preset 3” DVD changer signal source…this is for competition purposes and the final curve looks like this:

Overall, the OEM signal is a lot better than I thought, it is reasonably clean with a decent SN ratio for a stock post amp install…the DVD changer is a bit quieter and I hope to extract even more from it in the near future, but the oem signal source does an admirable job overall…perfectly acceptable for SQ listening. The two seat listening still needs to be fine tuned more, right now, I got it to sound pulled about 2-3 inches to each side depending on the listener seating position, having to work with the car’s inherent logic 7 system has its challenges, but I think over time, it can only get better. Tonality wise there isn’t much of a difference between the two settings.

4,981 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Trunk Preparation

Lets now get on with the build pics in the trunk…starting first with the steps I took to prepare everything for the build. As with any fake floor build, the absolute key is to start with a foundation that is level with the rest of the trunk floor…and then everything can be built off of that. The Genesis makes this a bi difficult as the spare tire well, though big and deep, is very much at a different angle than the top floor and has a big old group 49 battery sitting in it.

So first thing I did was to figure out where I wanted the foundational support to sit in the spare tire well and laid down a layer of deamplifier pro:

Here is what the trunk looks like in general, nice and spacious, but note that on the front portion, there are a bunch of factory tubing and panels that I would have to space over in order to achieve a flat and level floor. I would also need to build spacers on the two sides to make it flat and even with the front…

Then I installed rivet nutserts into the two trunk sides, to secure the floor spacer i will be putting in later:

I also installed rivet nutserts along the passenger side wall of the spare tire well, these will secure a wide variety of things down the road. The first picture is where the Stinger grounding lug will go, thus paint has been grinded away:

Next, I added rivet nutsets at the front of the trunk, which will serve to secure the front floor spacers. The front of these spacers will be secured using a nut onto the OEM stud you see sticking out of the floor.

These are the foundational spacers for the left and right sides…though they look simple, each took over 2 hours of careful measurement, cutting, ditching, recutting, reditching, to get right…because keep in mind that all four spacers need to align on angle and height, big metal washer acting as shims helped to get the final few mm of angle right:

Here are the spacers for the front trunk floor, note the bottom is design to sit in the dips and valleys and space above the factory tubing and panels:

While I was at it, I got in a Braille Endurance battery to replace the OEM unit, it has way more capacity and CA:

It is a direct fitment to OEM mounting bracket. Though its an AGM and don’t need a breather, it does provide a slot so the stock vent tube plugs right in:

The four floor spacers were then bolted in place, forming a flat panel across the four corners:

The Stinger 0 gauge grounding lug was then installed via bolts, wiretie hold downs were also installed in the locations previous drilled and riveted to hold the main power and ground cables:

In order to ensure that I have a stable platform to build everything else off of, I decide to do a fiberglass bottom support structure…basically a fiberglass box but not for enclosure purpose. So first the area was taped off:

And then 6 layers of fiberglass cloth was laid down and allowed to cure:

Then the piece was removed from the car and trimmed to the desired shape:

Then support blocks were attached so the top surface will be oriented flat and inline with the four support platforms above, note that holes were drilled through the blocks to allow for bolts to pass through:

Next a top panel was fabricated, with a center recessed hole to attach a bolt to the OEM spare tire mounting hole:

Next the top panel was attached to the blocks and then the gaps around the edges filled in with duraglass to form a flat and sturdy piece:

So this is the finished structure that the subbox and thus amprack will attach to. The four bolts show are the ones that will attach this structure to the car. Also note the threaded inserts added for the attachment of the subbox:

Next, four holes were drilled in the floor of the spare tire well and rivet nutserts attached:

Then the support structure was bolted in place via the 5 bolts, completely solid and strong:

The rivet nutsert and the bolt exposed at the underside of the car were coated with bedliner to prevent corrosion:

The bottom of the rear deck was sound proofed with deamplifier pro along with the trunk lid:

To allow better venting of the subbass into the cabin, I made a venting port attached to the trunk ceiling carpet. Here is the carpet piece:

The port frame was built, rabetted on the backside to allow attachment of grille mesh:

This was then placed onto the trunk carpet and the area in the port cut out:


4,981 Posts
Discussion Starter #10

The frame was then wrapped with black carpet, and the grille mesh attached:

And finally, the finished port is secured to the trunk carpet using upholstery epoxy and staples, this port is directly below the hole in the rear deck and grille on the rear deck cover for the OEM sub, a clear path right through:

And finally, the rear license plate and frame received the foam treatment to prevent it from buzzing against the car:


4,981 Posts
Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Trunk Wiring

Moving onto the wiring pics of the trunk. First, the bundle on the driver side, after passing through the OEM grommet, is then secured to the OEM wiring loom every 2-3 inches all the way down to the trunk floor level, there, it is divided and located to go to their respective destinations:

On the passenger side, it’s the same story. The front door woofer, front tweeter and subwoofer signals were tapped at the output side of the stock amp and connected to Stinger speaker wires. Note techflex and heatshrink throughout:

Grommets were placed into the OEM trunk carpet on both sides to allow the cables to pass through:

This the main floor side pieces where all the wiring and accessories including barrier strips will be attached, each is designed to be bolted onto the side support platforms:

For the passenger side, four threaded inserts were used to secure the DVD changer, here it is being test fitted:

The bottom corners were trimmed out to allow wiring to pass through, (see pics later)

Starting on the driver side, three barrier strips of two different ratings allow for easy trouble shooting of the front stage. First two inserts were put down for the big strip that house the subwoofer and front midbass cables:

Once that was in place, four more inserts were put down to secure the other two strips which houses the midrange and tweeter cables:

Four inserts were used to secure the Mosconi 6to8DSP, and the DSP was then bolted in place:

A platform was built that goes over the DSP, and allows attachment of the Mosconi HLA-SUM summing device, as well as two barrier strips for the combined power ground and remote output of the two devices:

The barrier strips were then attached and prewired for the two pieces:

Turning my attention back to the passenger side, insert was put down just for the wiretie cable clamp to secure the bundle to the floor:

More inserts were put down to locate the main ground distribution blocks from Stinger.

Inserts were also added to house the platform that will house the mani power distribution:

This is the said platform, which has its own inserts for the attachment of L brackets, wiretie holddowns, and the distribution blocks:

Next, inserts were added for wiretie anchors and barrier strips for the various power ground and remote wires for everything in the trunk:

Jumpers were used on the barrier strips for distribution of power ground and remote:

Next, the various wires are organized and started to be attached to their respective spots on the barrier strips and more inserts were used to tie down wires:

Next, I decided to beef up the factory ground by adding a second grounding cable to an existing bolt hole on the floor behind the battery. The paint around the mounting hole was sanded away and the additional grounding cable attached:

The main grounding cable was then routed from the lug to the ground distribution blocks, ziptied to the anchors I had secured earlier:

Next, all the signal, power, ground and remote cables that needed to go to the driver side of the car were bundled up and ran across. It is secured to the plastic trunk trim every 3 inches or so by drilling a hole in the ledge of the trim and passing a ziptie through:

Of course an insert was used to secure the bundle on the driver side:

Next I added RCA ends to all the signal cables from the OEM amp and the DVD changer:


4,981 Posts
Discussion Starter #12

The tweeter channel and the DVD changer’s output cables were plugged into inputs 1/2 and 5/6 respectively:

Next, the platform previous built was bolted in place, the HLA-SUM attached, and the wires from the subwoofer and door midbass channels were fed into the speaker level inputs:

The RCA cable that runs from the summed output of the HLA into input 3/4 of the DSP was then made:

And finally, everything is organized and attached to their desired destinations. Note heatshrink white for positive, black for negative, blue for remote turn on…a theme maintained throughout the install:

Next, a Stinger HPM 0 gauge power cable was attached to the stock terminal. Due to the extremely short run of the cable (less than 18 inches), a single 0 gauge is adequate despite the high current consumption. The oem terminal cover was trimmed to allow the cable to pass through, and it was then routed to the power fused distribution block, secured again via the anchors previously installed. Note battery terminal grease applied on both terminals:

Next, all the cables for the DVD changers are prepped, trimmed to the right length and routed:

The power distribution works like this. The main 0 gauge power cable goes into a two-out quad fused distribution block acting as the main fuse terminal. From there, one side has 250 amps of fusing and goes directly into the zero 1 amp powering the subs. The other side has 350 amps of fusing and then goes into a four-out fused distribution block which powers the three other amps and all the accessories:

The DVD changer was then hooked up, the main RCA connection for audio and video protected by heatshrink:

At this point, the subbox was installed, and these pictures show more of the wiring organization with it in place:

Then the amp rack was installed, and wires from the rack itself were led out to be attached to either side. First comes the subwoofer cables, which are dual 8 gauge cables, followed by the midbass, midrange and tweeter wires, each bundle is zitptied and secured down by insert and a small bolt:

Then the RCA cables from the amps were lead out and bundled above the speaker wires:

Next, ends were soldered to all the cables:


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Discussion Starter #13

These cables were also labeled to identify them, and plugged into their respective outputs. At this point, the entire driver side wiring is complete:

Moving to the passenger side, first the main ground cables were secured to the ground distribution block. The amps are number 1 through 4 starting from the bottom left hand Zero 1 and moving clock wise.

Next all the remote turn on cables were bundled, attached to the anchors located on the platform, and secured to their places on the barrier strip:

Then the power cables for the amps and accessories were secured to the fused distribution blocks, once again labled 1 through 4 for the amps:

A platform was built to house the RGB LED controller, it is bolted to the floor via inserts as well.

And the controller was then secured and wired up, thus completing the wiring for the passenger side:

Three shots of the entire trunks wiring all laid out:

Final note that high quality solder with a good silver content is used for all the RCA cables.

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Subwoofer Enclosure

After some measuring, I decided to build the enclosure out of wood instead of fiberglass for the simple reason that there is plenty of room in the spare tire well and I can control the internal airspace much better using wood. Total internal volume for the subbox is around 2.5 cubic feet, so after factoring in sub displacement, I am left with about 1.2 cubic foot sealed per sub.
Here is the bottom of the enclosure, all the corners braced with as support beam:

Here are the main cables that runs inside of the subbox to the subs, they are 12 gauge:

And here are the cables that go from the outside of the subbox to the amp, a single pair of 8 gauge:

I didn’t trust the rather flimsy connection points on the speaker cup, so I drilled it out and used two bolts and corresponding washers. Lockwashers and nuts to secure the two sides together:

Four thread inserts were installed to mount the terminal cup, thread locker was applied to ensure it would not back out due to vibration:

An insert was put down to secure a ziptie anchor so the cables will not be strained coming out of the box:

Next, an entire box of Focal Blackhole Five sound proofing material was used to line every interior surface of the enclosure. The Five eliminates resonance and standing waves yet is acoustically transparent, meaning they don’t take up enclosure air space:

Here you see the speaker cables bundled and routed inside the enclosure:

Next the enclosure was stuffed with Blackhole Stuff, a much better alternative to polyfil which serves to smoothout the bottom end of the response and further eliminate standing waves, combined the Five and the Stuff is definitely a bit of an overkill…but nothing wrong with that right?

Next the top baffle of the enclosure was made and temporarily attached:

Then began the construction of the spacer baffles that will raise the subs to the level of the amplifiers. I started with a template made out of 1/4 inch plexi cut on a computerized laser cutter:

Then a bunch of matching pieces were routed from that template:

After some careful positioning, two corresponding holes were cut in the top baffle and the stack of plates attached:

Then the top baffle was permenantly secured to the box:

Since I planned for a totally finished amp rack floor, the sides of the subwoofer spacers were wrapped in 3M brushed aluminum wrap to maintain cosmetic consistency, and now the box is ready to go into the car:

The subbox was then attached to the foundational support structure via 8 bolts that go into inserts previously installed:

The top panel where the subwoofer will actually sit on is routed to be 1/8” smaller than the rest of the baffles to account for the thickness of the carpet. Threaded inserts were placed for attachment of the subs:

The piece was then carpeted, The reason why I chose carpet is to prevent buzzing of the trim panel against it.

Since the OEM trunk carpet is slightly lighter than the black carpet I use, it was dyed with SEM for a better cosmetic match, this method is used on every single piece of black carpet in the build:

Front the get go, we planned to use the yet to be released Illusion Audio Carbon XL 12” subwoofer. The Illusion Audio line is being reintroduced into the US by ORCA, they still have their classic front motor subs and speakers, but the XL series sits at the top of the pyramid. The first 200 of these subs will feature neodymium motors, after them, the subs will come with ferrite magnets since the material for the first 200 were purchased before the insane increase in neo pricing. This sub is capable of taking a lot of power, I was told that they will reach their full output with around 2000 watts…a perfect match for the zero 1 powering them. Each sub is dual 2ohm. The folks at ORCA were fantastic, pulling the first two subs off the assembly line to airship to me directly so I can have them in time. So without further explanation, here is the sub. I do not yet know the details of it, but I will share that info once they are officially released. But I love the CF cone…and the fact that this car is the first one in the world to have them installed.

The sub also comes with a trim ring, but our design was built off of a prototype that did not have this feature, and thus the ring will not be used due to space constraints:

Each sub is wired in series to form 2ohm, and then parallel with each other for a final 2ohm impedance load on the zero 1. Here you see the cable connecting the positive of one coil with the negative of the other:

And finally, both subs were wired up and installed into the enclosure:


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Discussion Starter #15
Amp Rack Construction

Easily the most complicated part of the build was the amp rack. What seemed like a HUGE trunk quickly became very space constrained after we mocked up the four big amps and two subs…so precision is the absolute key here. For this reason, I had a laser cutting facility make me templates that were to my specific parameters, within microns.

I also decided early on that I plan to have a secondary display within the amp rack, meaning the surface that the amps and wires sit on will be displayed…this adds a lot of complexity as all the cables and their routing needs to be carefully planned out so it wouldn’t detract from the overall aesthetics.

I started with this simple board, cut to the desired shape:

Next, I took one of the laser cut plexiglass pieces and routed out a bunch of copies from various thickness of wood. This is the bottom of the amp rack walls, and consists of, from the bottom to the top, 3/8” mdf, 1/2” MDF, 3/8” Plexi (the template) and 1/8” hardboard:

Next, another laser cut of plexi was used to make a second stack of rings, these are slightly bigger than the first group so when they sit on top of the first batch, it forms a small ledge, this ledge is what the white painted trim panel sits on. From the bottom to the top, this group is 1/2" MDF, 3/8” Plexi (the template) and 1/4” MDF.

Here are the two batches stacked on top of each other:

And you can see the ledge that is formed, not the precision of the pieces:

Next, a third laser cut plexi piece was used to make the cosmetic middle trim panel out of 1/2” MDF:

And this pieces is test fitted to the stack, again note the precise fitment of the panel, a 1/8” border was left all around to account for the thickness of the carpet:

The stack of rings from the subwoofer build section was also test fitted at this time and the whole shebang was test fitted in the vehicle:

Next, a series of holes were drilled through the entire stack and the base board, these will serve to pass long bolts through and achor the stacked walls to the baseboard:

Every hole drilled in the base board received its own threaded inserts:

And finally, the pieces were bonded together via bolts:

Next, holes were drilled into it that would allow bolts to pass through ane secure the baseboard onto the foundational support platforms documented earlier:

The area around the subwoofers were cut out:

And the area above the stock battery was cutout…this is done so that in case we ever need to swap a battery, all we have to do is remove a single amp and pull the battery out:

Next, the very bottom pieces of the stacked wall was chopped into two sections, this would allow fore the wiring bundle to pass through:

Next, the inside wall of the pieces was wrapped with 3M brushed aluminum wrap to maintain cosmetic consistency with the floor:

Next up is the 3/8” plexi, which was clouded:

The 1/8” hardboard was then carpted:

Then the 1/2" MDF was carpted:

The upper 3/8” plexi clouded:

And finally, the top 1/4” MDF carpted:

Then all the pieces that were wrapped in black carpet was dyed to be slightly ligher. Here you see a sample black carpet on the left, and the dyed pieces for comparison purposes:

Then began the task of securing all the rings together, basically, each layer was put down, epoxy applied, the next ring stacked on, so on and so forth until the very top piece has been placed, then bolts were shot through to hold it all together as the epoxy dried, forming a solid wall of sorts:


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Discussion Starter #16

Here is what the stack looks like from the side:

Next, the baseboard received a bunch of inserts to mount the four amps:

And the amps test mounted via bolts:

Then I figured out where I want the wiring bundles to run, and put down a zillion threaded inserts that will each secure a ziptie anchor, this ensures that the bundle will be completely secured against the baseboard:

Then, I added a spacer section with dowels that will eventually properly locate the main top floor:

By now, the epoxy have cured and now I have a whole stacked border that is bonded together:

A final test fitment of the baseboard ensures that I can indeed get the battery out through the cutout:

Then the baseboard was covered with 3M brushed aluminum wrap, thanks to Jesse for helping me with this:

Then the amps were bolted in place:

Now, every single threaded insert on the floor got its own wiretie anchor:

And zipties passed through the hoop, it is now ready for wiring:

Then I started attaching all the wires to the amps and routing them to their proper exit point in the amp rack. This may look simple but it was a huge amount of work and required four tries to get the routing correct. As you can see, every cable has been techflexed, and terminated with heatshrink. The end result is so strong that I can lift the approximately 60 lb rack up by the wiring bundles.

Here are some close up shots of each amp’s wiring:

Then I had to remove the front two zero3s, so I can secure the entire structure to the car:

It was bolted in place via a few dozen inserts I had installed into the foundation platforms:


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Discussion Starter #17
The front amps were then reinstalled and the wires lead out to their respective destinations. (documented in the wiring section earlier)

Now it was time to focus my attention on the lighting. Here again is the stack of rings:

Heavy duty double side transparent tape was put onto the two clouded plexi glass rings and then the outer yellow layer was ripped off to expose the sticky surface:

Two spools of 16 foot RGB LED light strips were used from

And the first strip was attached to the lower plexiglass ring

The same was done for the upper plexiglass ring:

The adhesive backing on the LED strips were removed, and then black electrical tape was wrapped several times around the entire shape, this would prevent light leaking out of the back of the strips:

The ends for the wires from the strips were tinned, and then wrapped with color coded heatshrink, white for positive, then R G B negative. They were then wired to the input terminals of the LED controller:

And the entire piece is now complete and ready to be bolted into the car:

Here you see the top panel on the sub enclosure secured, and the wiring inside the subbox, again heatshrink terminated. There are two quick snaps attached to the sub enclosure (note temporary focal subs used during construction) that help locate and secure the white painted trim panel. The female half of these snaps is sunk into the trim panel:

And finally, I had my good friend William at Williams Autobody paint the trim panel to match the exterior of the car:


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Discussion Starter #18
Top Floor and Cover

The top floor of the build is a relatively simple affair, its divided into three sections, a center portion with the large cutout, and two side pieces that would allow for easy access to all fusing and wiring. After the center section was but, duraglass was used to ensure a perfect fitment against the rear trunk trim:

Once that cured and sanded smooth, I was left with this:

Threaded inserts were installed into the bottom side along the left and right edges that would later bolt on support beams:

This piece was then wrapped with black carpet:

The two side panels were built, the right hand side has the cutout for the DVD changer, and a small cutout for the IR eye and display of the LED controller, they were then also wrapped in black carpet:

This is the cover for the dvd changer, before and after carpet, there are four tiny but very powerful neodymium magnets epoxyed to the inside that grabs onto the metal chassis of the DVD changer to hold the cover in place.

Then all the pieces were dyed to match the OEM trunk carpet:

These are the support boards that would allow the side panels to sit flush with the center piece, along with their bolts:

And the boards secured in place, forming an extra ledge:

I also wanted the main grille cover to be sturdy and presentable on both sides, so it’s a two piece design. First is the top section, with its cutouts, rabbeted top surface to attach steel mesh, and also along the outer edge to account for the carpet thickness…and inserts on the bottom side for attachment of the bottom portion:

The grille mesh was then attached over the cutouts and filler was applied to smooth out the transition:

This piece was then carpeted, and the carpet on the bottom is sunk down into the rabbeted edges:

Then came the bottom section, which is basically a match of the top interms of cutouts, but about 1/4" smaller all around:

Carpet was applied to one side, and strips of sound proofing was used to space out the middle of the board to the same thickness as the carpet:

Then two more rings were made up and carpeted, these would sit on the frame of the subwoofer and provide additional support along the middle of the grille:

Finally, all the pieces were attached together, the carpet on the bottom cutouts pushed down and secured to the bottom of the mesh, and bolts put down, making the whole thing a single grille panel carpeted on both sides:

This whole thing was then dyed to match the oem trunk carpet:

And finally, the top cover for the dvd changer was made and carpeted:

So that’s it…overall, I am extremely pleased with the look and sound of the vehicle. The stage is nice and high and a good solid center image. Tonality is quite good as well with snappy and precise midbass and smooth yet detailed midrange and highs.

I will comment upon this later after I get some more tuning done. Hopefully, those at the NORCAL car audio meet will get to see it and hear it and they can chime in with their thoughts!

So expect reviews of the subs and amps at a later date…right now, after 6 hours of typing, I am simply too tired and need a break!



6 Posts

Thank you for sharing another incredible build. I am simply amazed at the amount of detail that went in to this system, I am looking forward to hearing this tomorrow.

44 Posts
bing, been waiting patiently for this. wished i could be there tomorrow to see and hear it in person!

can't wait for mine to start
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