DiyMobileAudio.com Car Stereo Forum banner

1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
32 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Ok so I've been reading a lot on the fabrication forum and it's inspired me to buy a router and table which I'm going to pick up after work today. I'm fairly confident I can make speaker rings so that brings me to my next phase in fabrication...fiberglassing.

I figure I'd just figure out how to make a basic "thing" with speaker cloth stretched and formed over some MDF skeleton. Once I get the basics down I will try my luck at sub boxes and the like. My questions are just related to the basics of starting off.

I was looking on US Composites and they have many types of fiberglass mat. Which weight is best for a box? I'd guess middle of the class, but I'm a n00b so I'm asking veteran fiberglassers.

Regarding resins, I figured out not to get the finishing resin due to the wax which can cause delamination and mess ish up. Is this correct?

Also, what is the difference between polyester and epoxy resins, if any? Is a hardener required for both types? And which one is easier to work with?

Sorry for all the questions. I just hope I can learn how to do this and make some sweet enclosures in the future!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
438 Posts
i been used bondo resin and their fiberglass mat since day one i dont see the need for anything else just get you an roller and take you time and another thing if you run out you can find it locally (wal-mart,lowes,autozone ect) but they body filler blows
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
977 Posts
I'd say go with polyesther resins, which require MEKP as a hardener. It's very smelly and the fumes are strong enough that you will want to wear a respirator.

If you're just doing some layup out doors or a very well ventilated area you may find that you personally can go without at times. I tried once in my trunk and I had to stop for a day and continue the next day with my mask.

Epoxy resin also requires a hardener FYI.

As for what type of cloth to use, you can't go wrong with chopped strand mat, so get a majority of it at first but get a small amount of any of the knytex or other meshes if you can afford to buy it. With some practice you will quickly see where the heavier cloths are great for and where you may not even be able to layup with it on the first layers. Can't go wrong with chopped strand as you can achieve the same results just needing to apply more layers.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
32 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
I live in the Dallas/Ft Worth area. Is there any place to source all these locally? I live right on a lake so there are tons of boat stores around. Will they have what I need?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,855 Posts
Many Marine hardware and supplies stores and Boat repair will sell Resin. Call small shops bc they will often have cheaper prices.

I get everything from US Composites and have for years.

I use 1.5oz matting for just about everything.
435 General Lay up resin will be fine for majority of your projects.

BONDO Brand resin and fillers are crap. It isnt until you use better stuff that you realize how bad that stuff really is. It will work, but the Resin is very thick so it requires more resin to wet out materials. Fillers dry like a brick so they are hard to sand.
Ive used them all many times in a pinch when I didnt have time to order or ran out of resin or filler.

Wax is used as a sanding agent. U use it in your final layer if u plan to sand the resin down.Otherwise the resin remains slightly tacky to allow easier and better adhesion for the next layer. all BONDO Brand Resin has wax already in it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
32 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Once I'm done with the final layer and it's tacky, can I go straight to the body filler?

Or if I can't, I use a waxed resin on my final layer??

I feel like I'm getting the concept down. Correct me if I'm wrong. I'll just need tons and tons of practice!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,855 Posts
you can do either or.
personally I dont like the tacky feeling so I use wax in my final coat . Then sand that down and get it in a good rough shape before body filler. then goto filler.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,791 Posts
i always use layup resin (no wax), even for the last layer. then a layer of duraglass as the first filler, then rage gold over that for the final product.

for a beginner i would suggest first working with some 0.75oz mat as it is thinner and easier to work with. once you are familiar with it move up to 1.5oz.

ploy resin is what most use, and as said above it smells bad. roughly you need 1/8oz of mekp to 1 pint (16oz) of resin and poly allows more work time. epoxy resin doesn't have the smell however it uses a 50/50 mixture of resin and hardener and has slightly different properties. you can use either one but i prefer poly just because that's what i always used.

aslo as stated, stay away from any bondo brand product. it's ****.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,310 Posts
If you need more help that what has been given above, try fiberglassforums. They have some great tips on techniques. If I'm not stretching fabric for my first "layer", I actually prefer fiberglass cloth to mat. It works well for giving a smooth exterior finish (if I'm making pods for the dash or kicks) which means less filler/sanding. If I am stretching material, I get ponte cloth. You can find it at a fabric store and it is similar to panty hose. It stretches better than fleece (what many people use), doesn't take as much resin to wet out, and is thinner (fleece is not very strong strucurally) so you can get more mat/cloth in the same footprint for greater strength.

Also, if you use a resin without wax in it and you don't like how it remains tacky, I've never (personally) had any issues with putting a fine coat of paint down. If you use a darker color it can double as a guide coat when sanding.
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top