[PrinceCharming]

I need a 2-channel amp to drive a JBL C608GTI MKII component system (150RMS/600Peak each). Can anyone recommend a good SQ amp that puts out at least 500RMS per channel, under $350? I know I don't really need that much but I've heard that you can drive these pretty hard and thats what I plan to do. It doesn't matter about the size of the amp cuz I've got space.

I've been looking at a Lanzar OPTI700X2

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_42914_Lanzar-OPTI700X2.html

I know it's overkill but it's not CEA compliant and I've read that it produces only slightly less than what it says, even then I wouldnt turn it up too high. But a cheaper alternative would be nice.

 

[AAAAAAA]

I will give out the same asnwer I always give out.

It's much easier to get a 4 channel and bridge it to get the power you want...it's also more flexible for when you decide to go active.

 

[PrinceCharming]

I would prefer having a good solid 2-channel because I'm getting a separate 4-channel for my tweeters and speakers.

 

[AAAAAAA]

So you are saying you can't have two 4 channels? Would your system then be to flexible or something? hehe

 

[WhippingBoy]

Better than the Lanzar

Concerto Series C1600.2

 

[D-Bass]

Hifonic Zues series used to have a 5-600rmsx2 amp. i never considered them SQ, but i never considered lanzar sq either.

 

[PrinceCharming]

That concerto doesn't have quite enough power and I didnt really think Hifonics was much for SQ, the Lanzar Optidrive series as far as the amps go are supposed be pretty high quality.
I've been reading around a bit and have decided I should probably go with about 300-400RMSx2 of high quality, efficient, SQ. I would like to find one in the $250 range if possible.

 

[donnieL72]

I know that you're pretty dead set on a 2 channel amp, but you'll find more options in that power range by looking at bridging a 4 channel. In the future it will give you more options and flexibility and satisfy your power demands right now.

NVX 400x2 bridged NVX JAD800.4 Full Range Class D 4-Channel Car Amplifier

PPI 400x2 bridged Precision Power PPI BK 800.4 800W RMS, 4-Ch Class A/B Black Ice Car Amp

PPI 380x2 bridged Precision Power PPI S760.4 (S7604) Class AB 4-Channel Car Amplifier/Amp

JBL 300x2 bridged JBL GTO1004 (GTO-1004) 600W RMS 4-Channel Grand Touring Amplifier

There are lots of others out there, you just neet to look around.

Personally, I am running a Boston Acoustics GT2200 200x2 into a pair of Massive Audio RK6's. These things are as power hungry as any 6 1/2" out there. It gives them all they want. 400 watts for each side of a 6 1/2" component set honestly is a bit of overkill. There are plenty of people that don't run 400 watts on a sub and they sound just fine.

 

[JeremyC]

Who told you Lanzar was high quality? Genesis, Zapco and Audison are high quality. Lanzar???

Personally I would NEVER recomend Lanzar to someone. They might have gotten a little better over the last few years. But i will always remember them as a high failure rate flee market brand.

IMHO you can do better for the money. JBL, Sundown, JL, Alpine, PPI. There are a lot of brands I would put before them. Especially if you want to drop your RMS rating down closer to what the speakers are recomended at.

Speaking of RMS ratings, I have another question. Your comp set is rated for 150 watts RMS. Why do you want an amp that will put out 3 times that?

I could see 50 "maybe" 100 watts RMS over the rating of your comp set, if you were trying for some extra head room. But 350 watts over their RMS rating? Thats asking for trouble unless you've been doing this for a while.

I just noticed your post saying you want something in the 250 to 300 watt RMS rating. Thats still a lot of power. Unless there is something I'm missing when it comes to that comp set.

 

[AfterFx Customs]

500W RMS on a 2ch amp for $350? uhm.. probabaly not gonna happen.
look at an audison voce av duo. its 260Wx2, so RMS will be around 100 to 130.
its a clean sounding amp.
if you want great sound i would buy a McIntosh 4ch amp and run the drivers "active", having no loss in output from the amp.
you'll never buy another amp again.

 

[eggyhustles]

if you want great sound i would buy a McIntosh 4ch amp and run the drivers "active", having no loss in output from the amp.
you'll never buy another amp again.

lol

Right..

 

[eggyhustles]

I would prefer having a good solid 2-channel because I'm getting a separate 4-channel for my tweeters and speakers.

how many speakers do u have in your front stage?

 

[PrinceCharming]

Thanks for the input everybody. I know Lanzar isnt known for quality anymore but their Optidrive series is supposed to be very high quality (the amps are anyways). I've been reading about these for weeks now and I've read nothing bad about them, they are Lanzar's only good line. And as far as that component set goes, ive read I don't know how many reviews that say they can handle way more than their RMS and actually could use at least 250-300. They are VERY power hungry. And 'eggyhustle' I have a two speakers and two tweeters on my front stage, it's a stock component set I guess, because they are wired like a component set but without a crossover. It's in a 2002 Pontiac Grand Am SE. And no, I haven't been doing this for very long so I'm basing everything on what I've read from forum reviews to professional articles on car audio. I know i would get more flexibility out of a 4-channel but I would prefer not to have to bridge to get the power I need because I've heard that bridging creates some distortion and extra heat, it's not much but I want as little as possible. Again this is not from experience so I could deffinately be over thinking things. Can someone please clear these things up for me and help me find a good amp, whether it be 4 or 2 channel I want at the very least 400w RMS because I want a good bit of headroom so that I can drive them hard when I want to.

 

[PrinceCharming]

Then again if what I want isnt possible within my budget then so be it., I will just go with the Lanzar.

 

[rc10mike]

Look for a Soundstream HRU.2. Its rated at [email protected] But its discontinued and very hard to find...

 

[Horsemanwill]

i'm still trying to figure out why you want sooo much overhead. i mean i can understand a lil power but the speakers are 150rms/600peak. imo most you'd really want is abotu 200 watts. why the 500? explain to me this.

 

[JeremyC]

And 'eggyhustle' I have a two speakers and two tweeters on my front stage, it's a stock component set I guess, because they are wired like a component set but without a crossover.

If you don't have a x-over, a two channel amp will not work in this situation.

You either need a passive x-over to put between the speakers and the amp, or 4 channel amp AND an electronic x-over to put between the amp and the head unit.

And I'm going to ask again, as the person before me did. Why so much power? Power hungry is one thing, but almost 3 times the RMS is going to get you in trouble.

 

[rexroadj]

If you don't have a x-over, a two channel amp will not work in this situation.

You either need a passive x-over to put between the speakers and the amp, or 4 channel amp AND an electronic x-over to put between the amp and the head unit.

And I'm going to ask again, as the person before me did. Why so much power? Power hungry is one thing, but almost 3 times the RMS is going to get you in trouble.

What he means by "stock" component set is he is using the passives that came with the set.

Why the power.....First off I could write a book about these speakers......in fact if you search...I kind of did

They reach there full potential with gobs and gobs of power. I ran about 500 to mine and it was amazing! (bridged HRU.4 and REF4.920 at different times) Ran them active off same 4 channels, ran active with about 200 to each mid and 120 to each tweet with different two channel amps....ran them off a rockford t600.2 with passives......did it all with these speakers....... All sounded amazing.... Bridged off the 4.920 was probably my favorite combo with them! Had that comp set for MANY years! Hell they even survived a truck fire!

I still get countless PMs about the 608s and everyone always starts out the same........ 150 or so watts and really likes them......they dont get the same description I had with mine then they go out and run more power.....Different ball game! Anyone that has used them and done this will absolutely stand behind that! They are a unique comp set for sure!

Dont buy the lanzar......500x2 does not exist, certainly not for the tiny handful of amps that truly exist and your budget. I can only think of about 5 or so that can really do the 500x2 and most are long gone, and they did and still do cost about 7x's your budget. Get something like the REF4.920 keep it ventilated and go bridged. It will get warm..... Plus the great thing about the ref amps is you can go active from the xovers on the amp!!!! NEVER a bad option!
If you ever decide to go active or even 3way active fronts......The a/d/s 344is is a spectacular midrange that goes with this set like it was made together!!!! Probably the best budget 3 way set I have ever dreamed of using! Keep the 4.920 for the tweets and midrange and the big 2 channel 190ish x2 for the mids or get the midsize 4 to bridge to the mids! Tons of SUPER clean volume to be had

 

[robert_wrath]

Arc Audio - SE2300
Arc Audio SE 2300

 

[JeremyC]

it's a stock component set I guess, because they are wired like a component set but WITHOUT A CROSSOVER.

Are you sure he has the x-over?