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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Guys, I don't know TS parameters but I know what I am looking for in a midbass driver. I was hoping to get some recommendations on drivers based on a description of what I need. I am still in the very early stages of my steep learning curve so please bear with..

First off, this is an SQL type system, 3 way active for front stage, for midbass I have (350 x 2) @ 4 ohms

This driver is aimed at use of the stock factory location which houses a 6.5"
Can't be any larger than the Boston Pro 6.5" as I want to keep it behind the factory cover in the stock location. I'm not looking for anything smaller than a 6.5"

For reference

A) Old School Boston Pro 6.5
I like the snap/kick these provide, also the power handling, never heard them in a 3 way setup. Other than the fact that I like the snap they provide in the lower register, I didn't like the overall sound in a 2 way comp set.

B) Image Dynamics IDQ-8 (dual 4 ohm VC)
I liked the detail up higher, but I thought them a bit boomy in certain areas, sounded more like a subwoofer to me, may have been the application or enclosure.. In either case, they lacked that tight thump or kick that I am looking for.

C) Eosone home audio 6.5's (paired on both sides, 4 total, powered with 300 watts to each side.)
I really enjoyed the kick and snap these provided on the low end when used from 63HZ to 160HZ. Above that, I didn't like the cloudiness or the lack of precision.. Rated @ 50 watts rms each, wasn't long till I blew one..


Summary:

I need 6.5" midbass drivers that are for starters, no larger than the Old School Boston Pros, at least 200 watts rms each. I don't want a midbass driver that booms, just snappy, accurate, detailed response, quick driver that has a serious kick to it.

Lastly, and most importantly, it has to perform exceptionally well in the stock door location, down low. Good response from 63HZ all the way up to about 600HZ.

I am also on a bit of a budget at the moment, am strongly considering pre-owned if in perfect condition (anyone have anything for sale or trade?)


Any info as always, is much appreciated.. Thanks in advance..
 

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I'm baaaack!!
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I have a pair of BNIB ID OEM's that I would be willing to sell you if you are interested. I have been running another set of these in my car for the last year or so with the power levels you mentioned and I think that they do a wonderful job as a midbass driver. I have yet to bottom them out even at pretty loud levels. They'll play down to 63Hz and up do 2.5KHz if needed. So the passband needed for a dedicated midbass driver wouldn't be a problem at all IMHO. Just shoot me a PM if interested.

Zach
 

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Peerless SLS seems like the obvious choice to me.
+1 Though from my experience at about 400 hz, they start not to sound fantastic. That was in my early days though.
 

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PM sent...
 

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Peerless SLS or CreativeSoundSolutions SDX7 otherwise you risk getting wimpy midbass.
 

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+1 Though from my experience at about 400 hz, they start not to sound fantastic. That was in my early days though.
They'll "work" in a 2-way setup, but not very well. In my current rebuilding stages I've got em playing up to 3k hz and they're livable for the time being. For a permanent install definitely no higher than 500hz and they do very well as a dedicated midbass.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks much fellas.. All being considered.
 

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+1 Though from my experience at about 400 hz, they start not to sound fantastic. That was in my early days though.
Were you dealing with the 8's or 6.5s. The 6.5s have quite a bit more extension than the 8's. The 8's do sound horrible above 400 hz or so.
 

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The Anti-Rice
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Peerless SLS or CreativeSoundSolutions SDX7 otherwise you risk getting wimpy midbass.
Those ID oems are very capable.....just avoiding playing them above 2k.
 

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Those ID oems are very capable.....just avoiding playing them above 2k.

I had my ID OEMs crossed at 4khz for a while and they played without any issues. My vote goes to the ID OEM mids. You can get a new pair for $90 shipped.
 

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They'll "work" in a 2-way setup, but not very well. In my current rebuilding stages I've got em playing up to 3k hz and they're livable for the time being. For a permanent install definitely no higher than 500hz and they do very well as a dedicated midbass.
I used them in a 3-way front stage active setup. Though, when I was feeling saucy one day, I just turned off the mids, and turned up the x-over on the mid-basses (SLS 6.5") just to see the difference. It wasn't better by any means.

Were you dealing with the 8's or 6.5s. The 6.5s have quite a bit more extension than the 8's. The 8's do sound horrible above 400 hz or so.
See above response. I still like my CDT M6 speakers, but for a small budget, the SLS will beat them out unless buying used.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
They'll "work" in a 2-way setup, but not very well. In my current rebuilding stages I've got em playing up to 3k hz and they're livable for the time being. For a permanent install definitely no higher than 500hz and they do very well as a dedicated midbass.
Does it make sense that I want a midbass driver that is better known for kick or punch than for boom this all the way down to 63HZ? I wish I understood TS parameters and how they affect the response of a driver, it would make life so much easier for me..

I see some of the Big Boys have come out of the woodwork to throw in their 2 cents. A welcome sight. Keep it coming fellas!!

I listen to all forms of music, find it difficult to get the metal sounding the way I want it to. I am trying to get the system to sound as good as it will get with the EQ set to flat. I am doing this with different drivers, driver location and XO/delay settings.

I feel that once I get system to sound the way I want them to with the EQ flat, then I could EQ for the Metal as needed (most mids have the metal sounding harsh) So far, for anything other than metal, the system sounds very good with EQ set flat or off. I am looking for a setup that will play anything the way it's supposed to sound, something well balanced, as close to studio quality as I can get from a car. I was getting this, a punchy, well defined sound that was clear, balanced and most importantly imaged well with a broad soundstage.

All was well with exception to midbass which had intermittent muddling to it (depending on frequency) I figured out that the location I chose for my midbass drivers was FAR LESS than optimal. (directly in the large doorskin cavity) I chose it out of convenience thinking I could make it work. It didn't. I got vibrations/distortion from the door and doorskin that can not be corrected, regardless of how much deadener, silicon and Great Stuff foam that I used..

Other than that, the system would have sounded amazing. This is what is prompting the switch to use of a single, potent midbass for the stock door location.

I also want to try out my Mmats midrange, it's a 4" mid from their Pro 4.0 setup. I am told by Dave at Mmats that if the driver is setup from 500HZ to 3.5, it will sing. Anything under 500HZ and I will get a nasal, honking, barking annoying response. This is why I need a midbass that plays well from 63HZ to 500/600HZ. Ordinarily, I use my midbass real low, have it cutoff at 160HZ.

This is the first time I will be trying a midbass over 160HZ. Till now, I have been using a 5.25 for midrange, that afforded me enough range to dial it in low, all the way down to 160HZ. I had midbass setup from 63HZ to 160HZ. This worked perfect, except for the nasty intermittent vibrations I would get in the mid to upper midbass frequencies. (doorskin mount was less than ideal)The single midbass driver is going to take the place of the 5.25 that currently in the stock door location, I am removing the midbass from my doorskin, foor good. Major change. I now have to find a home for either the 5.25" or the 4" for midrange, I will try both in a kick, use whichever sounds best.

Don't know what prompted the off topic ramble (I have a tendency to hijack my own threads with some other area of concern, turning them into a mess)

Bass Lover, you out in New Port Richey?
Ever get out to South Florida? Being a Metalhead myself, would love to hear your setup. Anyway, a fellow Floridian Metalhead that is into SQ. A rare find, would like to try to take advantage of it.. That's whats up.. Let me know if you're coming out this way for spring break or anything. I'm in Boca Raton, not too far from FT Laud or Miami..
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Just got an offer for Hybrid Legatia L6 and L1v2 tweets, Any comments?
 

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Good stuff. I've heard nothing bad about them. Hybrid makes some very musical drivers. A little expensive IMO but the performance warrants it.
 

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Does it make sense that I want a midbass driver that is better known for kick or punch than for boom this all the way down to 63HZ? I wish I understood TS parameters and how they affect the response of a driver, it would make life so much easier for me..

I see some of the Big Boys have come out of the woodwork to throw in their 2 cents. A welcome sight. Keep it coming fellas!!

I listen to all forms of music, find it difficult to get the metal sounding the way I want it to. I am trying to get the system to sound as good as it will get with the EQ set to flat. I am doing this with different drivers, driver location and XO/delay settings.

I feel that once I get system to sound the way I want them to with the EQ flat, then I could EQ for the Metal as needed (most mids have the metal sounding harsh) So far, for anything other than metal, the system sounds very good with EQ set flat or off. I am looking for a setup that will play anything the way it's supposed to sound, something well balanced, as close to studio quality as I can get from a car. I was getting this, a punchy, well defined sound that was clear, balanced and most importantly imaged well with a broad soundstage.

All was well with exception to midbass which had intermittent muddling to it (depending on frequency) I figured out that the location I chose for my midbass drivers was FAR LESS than optimal. (directly in the large doorskin cavity) I chose it out of convenience thinking I could make it work. It didn't. I got vibrations/distortion from the door and doorskin that can not be corrected, regardless of how much deadener, silicon and Great Stuff foam that I used..

Other than that, the system would have sounded amazing. This is what is prompting the switch to use of a single, potent midbass for the stock door location.

I also want to try out my Mmats midrange, it's a 4" mid from their Pro 4.0 setup. I am told by Dave at Mmats that if the driver is setup from 500HZ to 3.5, it will sing. Anything under 500HZ and I will get a nasal, honking, barking annoying response. This is why I need a midbass that plays well from 63HZ to 500/600HZ. Ordinarily, I use my midbass real low, have it cutoff at 160HZ.

This is the first time I will be trying a midbass over 160HZ. Till now, I have been using a 5.25 for midrange, that afforded me enough range to dial it in low, all the way down to 160HZ. I had midbass setup from 63HZ to 160HZ. This worked perfect, except for the nasty intermittent vibrations I would get in the mid to upper midbass frequencies. (doorskin mount was less than ideal)The single midbass driver is going to take the place of the 5.25 that currently in the stock door location, I am removing the midbass from my doorskin, foor good. Major change. I now have to find a home for either the 5.25" or the 4" for midrange, I will try both in a kick, use whichever sounds best.

Don't know what prompted the off topic ramble (I have a tendency to hijack my own threads with some other area of concern, turning them into a mess)

Bass Lover, you out in New Port Richey?
Ever get out to South Florida? Being a Metalhead myself, would love to hear your setup. Anyway, a fellow Floridian Metalhead that is into SQ. A rare find, would like to try to take advantage of it.. That's whats up.. Let me know if you're coming out this way for spring break or anything. I'm in Boca Raton, not too far from FT Laud or Miami..
If I remember correctly, a driver with a lowish Qts. will give you more of a "snappy" midbass, and you'll tend to lose a bit on the very bottom end because most of them are better suited in ported enclosures. I will say this though, the SLS 6.5 is a VERY capable midbass driver, I have mine playing down to 50hz @ 18db and they take it with a smile. Actually when I first installed them I actually turned my substage off for about a month, with a slight boost in the 60hz region I was able to get enough midbass that I didn't feel the subs were necessary.

They "can" play up to 500hz or so, but if you're going to do a 3-way front with mids in pillars I would look for a midrange that can play lower, I had my L3s down to 200hz and they blended very well. If you're going for kicks you'll have a better chance a getting results that are more desirable, but remember the SLS drivers are "subs" so they're really suited for that pass band.

I don't normally make my way down that far, plus my stereo is in the rebuilding stages, but occasionally a group of us will meet at a Hooters down in Bradenton for a little gathering. We haven't done it lately but it used to be every month, once I get my car finished up I'd really like to see that get started again. I'll let you know what happens.
 
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