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Discussion Starter #1
Planning to do my first install and have been reading LOTS, but could use some advice on which components and what amplification.

Budget $1500 (could go as high as $2000 if need)
Music Preferences: Rock\Alternative, some Country, some Jazz. Don't want too much bass.
Goals: Great sound (step or two down from competition\audiophile) with iPod control added. Minimal cargo area loss and good power efficiency.

I'm working with a 08 Honda Accord and must keep my OEM HU. The HU provides clean balanced outputs. I'm sound deadening and running power\ground\remote cabling over next couple of weekends and this cost doesn't impact my budget.

Here is what I'm currently thinking...
- Single IDQ10V3.D4 in a Sonic-Sub-Box-1SL10-0.7 sealed enclosure ($270)
- Audiocontrol LC6i ($130)
- iSimple Gateway ISHD571 ($100)

I plan to disconnect the rears. I'm still struggling to determine which component set and what amplifier(s) I should go with.

For the components, I was thinking JL Audio C5-650's as I know they will fit the Honda without mods. I'd prefer no speaker mods. Any thoughts on something better?

What kind of amplifier(s) would you recommend?
 

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The C5s sound great, but you'll get a bunch of JL haters in here pretty soon. If you've heard the C5s and liked them, pull the trigger!
 

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With that kind of budget you have TONS of options and you'll get tons of different responses on here due to that budget. That's a solid first posts for everyone to help..but one more question. What have you listened to that you like or dislike. I only ask this bc you have a lot of routes
 

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This looks like a good option for iPod connectivity and it allows you to control it using the radio buttons/knob. USA Spec iPod® Interface for Honda

If you are not too worried about output but want quality in a small enclosure then the Dayton HO 12 is a good contender. And cheaper. Then get some MDF and carpet and build it right into the corner of the trunk.

For transferring the signal to the amplifier(s) I would take the next step and go active using the JBL MS-8. It uses a mic to tune itself and will far surpass most passive crossover setups without needing to be a skilled installer/tuner.

Amp, something small and powerful that does not eat all your budget. Kenwood Excelon XR-5S Class D Amplifiers at Onlinecarstereo.com

Speakers, ScanSpeak Revelator 18W/4531G 7" Mid-Woofer 4 ohm: Madisound Speaker Store and ScanSpeak Illuminator D3004/6020-10 1" Tweeter Deep Chamber: Madisound Speaker Store

A few hundred over the 1500 but should be amazing.
 

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I've seen a few guys throw 150 rms to each door on the 6.5 C5's. Maybe that'll help you determine what amp to get.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
With that kind of budget you have TONS of options and you'll get tons of different responses on here due to that budget. That's a solid first posts for everyone to help..but one more question. What have you listened to that you like or dislike. I only ask this bc you have a lot of routes
Frankly, I haven't listened to much yet. Based on the suggestions I get, I'm going to try to go out and listen and see what I like most. In my previous car (truck), the installer used Kicker DS65.2's and I thought they sounded good, but felt the SQ was a bit lacking.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I've seen a few guys throw 150 rms to each door on the 6.5 C5's. Maybe that'll help you determine what amp to get.
So, let's say I end up with the JL 6.5 C5's. They are rated for 75WRMS each. The ID sub is rated at 500 RMS.

If I don't want extreme volume\power, what kind of amp configuration would work? Is it generally recommended to power the components off of a different amp than the sub?
 

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If you're dead set and like the C5's (though I think there's much better for the money) then get those, but run them active using the MS-8 like someone suggested. It'll sound much better and do most of the work for you (as in the tuning process).

JL C5's
JBL MS-8
IDq (I'd do a 12 though if you have the space; since you're going sealed you should be fine)

5-channel (Adrenalinejunkie beat me to it with the link! good stuff in there)
OR
4-channel and mono amp
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for all the input so far. I think the processor puts me over the edge of my budget. I think the MS-8 might make a good project later if I decide to toss more money at this.

So here is what I'm currently thinking:

- Single IDQ10V3.D4 in a Sonic-Sub-Box-1SL10-0.7 sealed enclosure ($270)
- iSimple Gateway ISHD571 ($100)
- JL HD900/5 ($850)
- JL C5-650's ($330)

That's right at $1550.

I think I will prefer the iSimple over the USA IPOD add-on as the iSimple doesn't result in lost XM functionality. The 5 ch looks ideal..didn't even think about being able to bridge the 4 channels. Looks like I'd get the max 500RMS out of the sub and with the bridged front\rears, would provide 150RMS to each component set. The amp size is amazing...should really help accomplish the minimal cargo loss goal. Plus the balanced outputs should feed directly into the amp with no conversion needed.

I'm still kinda undecided on the C5's. Any suggestions on other options that will fit my car that are sub $400 and will run on the bridged 150W's? I'm leaning heavily only because I know they will fit without modification..probably not the best criteria...
 

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Why not keep amp channel unbridged, and run the front stage active if you have that capability? In terms of speakers, I'd probably get the HAT Unity, Focals VB/VR, or JL C5s if I was going to run passive front stage, but I'd give them a listen first. If I was going active or bi-amp, I'd get HAT Imagine speakers. These two reportedly are quite comparable to C5s, on a speaker board at least. I am not quite sure though why haven't more people bought the C5s. There is a ton of feedback of HAT speakers, but very little on C5s. It seems like, for the most part, people on DIYMA like using DIY drivers or drivers from very small companies.
 

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Step up to the idq12. same price , slightly larger 1.0ft box.

As for my shamless plug, I have 3 used idq12 v3 d4's forsale if your interested $180 shipped
 
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