[96jimmyslt]

Please don't pay anyone more than $20 total to install EVERYTHING.

Buy from best buy with warranty, then have someone on CL install it for you.

Since you have the warranty on the items, and 30 day return period, if anything goes wrong, it's "the parts fault" and take it back to get a new one.

Just make sure you don't damage it yourself (screwdriver through the sub woofer)

If you short the amp/head unit, that's easy to take back, but you shouldn't need to if you put fuses on the system (as everyone should, IMO)

Best buy has an 18 month financing plan right now for anything over $430.00.

If you have $800 worth of stuff, it will cost you $44 per month.

This can include the protection plans as well. (if you decide to just get $430 worth)

How much bass do you want? How many subs?

Also, don't buy from car audio shops. They generally don't allow returns for ANY reason, and don't provide hassle-free extended warranties.

If you buy a sub from best buy, and get the protection plan, at anytime during the life of the protection plan should the sub blow due to you overpowering it or any other reason, it's covered. And I think I remember the lady saying you can get the sub replaced an infinite amount of times during the length of the protection plan...

 

[Chaos]

Please don't pay anyone more than $20 total to install EVERYTHING.

Buy from best buy with warranty, then have someone on CL install it for you.

Since you have the warranty on the items, and 30 day return period, if anything goes wrong, it's "the parts fault" and take it back to get a new one.

Just make sure you don't damage it yourself (screwdriver through the sub woofer)

If you short the amp/head unit, that's easy to take back, but you shouldn't need to if you put fuses on the system (as everyone should, IMO)

Best buy has an 18 month financing plan right now for anything over $430.00.

If you have $800 worth of stuff, it will cost you $44 per month.

This can include the protection plans as well. (if you decide to just get $430 worth)

How much bass do you want? How many subs?

Also, don't buy from car audio shops. They generally don't allow returns for ANY reason, and don't provide hassle-free extended warranties.

If you buy a sub from best buy, and get the protection plan, at anytime during the life of the protection plan should the sub blow due to you overpowering it or any other reason, it's covered. And I think I remember the lady saying you can get the sub replaced an infinite amount of times during the length of the protection plan...

Do you have any idea what are you talking about?

$20 labor for an entire system? I don't think so.

Why would you risk letting a complete stranger work on your car? How do you know this individual knows WTF he's doing? What happens if he sets off an airbag or shorts out the BCM? Ever heard of liability insurance? Chances, are the hack that you find on CL sure hasn't.

If there is a shop near you with policies such as you describe, then you should take your business elsewhere.

The shop I work for warranties install work for the lifetime of the vehicle to the original customer. If a product fails outside of warranty, we will often take it back and exchange it towards something new of equal or greater value, which we technically have no obligation to do - but recognize the value this represents to the customer. They will replace virtually anything still under manufacturer warranty on the spot, provided that we have one in stock. That is one of the least hassle-free return policies that you are likely to find in retail.

 

[96jimmyslt]

The shop I work for warranties install work for the lifetime of the vehicle to the original customer. If a product fails outside of warranty, we will often take it back and exchange it towards something new of equal or greater value, which we technically have no obligation to do - but recognize the value this represents to the customer. They will replace virtually anything still under manufacturer warranty on the spot, provided that we have one in stock. That is one of the least hassle-free return policies that you are likely to find in retail.

Depends on the vehicle. I could install an entire system in a 96ish blazer in a couple hours. A BMW? Sure, that's worth going the extra steps.

Whats minimum wage? $8.25? You really think sitting on your ass is even close to as much work as working at mcdonalds?

Just because best buy inflates install prices by 500% of what the actual labor is worth, doesn't mean anyone should pay that much.

Also, I just show people my system and tell them I installed it all.

I've never damaged anything in my vehicle and this was the first system I installed.

I will agree that newer cars are a lot more delicate and sensitive, but I don't think OP's car falls under that category because it's fairly old.


Now, if someone chimes in who has worked on that specific year/
Model and gives some reasons why it's easier to take it to a shop, than I would agree with taking it to one.

And I appoigize for bashing all shops. The one you work at clearly is completely opposite of the first and only shop I went to.

I still think that car audio installation is very very simple, just as building computers are - which I learned both by googling and trial and error (with literally very little monetary loss)

I think you are underestimating guys on craigslist the same way I am bashing car audio shops. Sure there are scumbags, but people are generally nice.

 

[trojan fan]

Please don't pay anyone more than $20 total to install EVERYTHING.

Buy from best buy with warranty, then have someone on CL install it for you.

Since you have the warranty on the items, and 30 day return period, if anything goes wrong, it's "the parts fault" and take it back to get a new one.

Just make sure you don't damage it yourself (screwdriver through the sub woofer)

If you short the amp/head unit, that's easy to take back, but you shouldn't need to if you put fuses on the system (as everyone should, IMO)

Best buy has an 18 month financing plan right now for anything over $430.00.

If you have $800 worth of stuff, it will cost you $44 per month.

This can include the protection plans as well. (if you decide to just get $430 worth)

How much bass do you want? How many subs?

Also, don't buy from car audio shops. They generally don't allow returns for ANY reason, and don't provide hassle-free extended warranties.

If you buy a sub from best buy, and get the protection plan, at anytime during the life of the protection plan should the sub blow due to you overpowering it or any other reason, it's covered. And I think I remember the lady saying you can get the sub replaced an infinite amount of times during the length of the protection plan...

Sorry dude, but you are way out in left field....LOL

 

[turbo5upra]

labor costs the shop 20-30 bucks an hour by the time you factor in all the stupid crap....


mk3 supra's are pretty simple... I could guide him through the steps. but one would need to listen to us and not try and have a shop that has no idea what it's doing sell product.

 

[96jimmyslt]

Sorry dude, but you are way out in left field....LOL

Please explain how to benefit OP

I dont post to intentionally misguide anyone.

What I posted is what I do and it's the best option I've found.

 

[PottersField]

I've visited to several shops that warranty all of their products and their labor. Also, they'll warranty the labor even if you don't buy the product from them. So you got the warranty from the manufacturer (provided you buy it new) to cover you regardless of whether they sold it or not, plus they take care of you if they somehow botch the install. To me, if I know jack **** about installing or if I don't have the tools/time/workspace, that's the route I'm going to take.

That said, a basic install requires very little. A basic set of hand tools including a wire stripper/crimper.cutter, assorted connectors, the install manuals for your gear, and a Chilton's manual for your car. No ****, a Chilton's is worth its weight in gold when you're doing your own work as you now have a step by step to completely disassemble your car and put it all back together. Wiring diagrams, fuse locations, power source locations, it's all in there.

And on that note, the original topic is a complete system under $800. Mine obviously isn't an end-all example, but it's an example none the less. I took the time to add up the cost of what I'm planning, just to give an idea.

Pioneer DEH-6300UB $120
Polk Audio PA660 75x4 $220
Polk Audio PA880 300x1 $220
MB Quart 6.5 components $80
RE Audio SE-X sub $160
Speaker, power, signal wiring, connectors, screws, glue, silicone, etc. $100
MDF sheet $30
Stinger Roadkill for various areas $60

Total: $990

Take out the PA660 and run the components off the head unit (which I did for a while and they still sounded pretty damn good) and that brings the total down to $770. That leaves $ for beer and pizza for a friend.

 

[AccordUno]

20 to install a system in a car.. Sure that's going to happen or get done the right way. If you want save money learn how to DIY it.

Do the HU first, if your speakers are blown then upgrade those.. There's usually someone offering crack head deals on here.. don't rush into dropping money on gear right away, do your homework and you'll end up getting some better for the same amount..

 

[turbo5upra]

Hello...... I've done a poop ton of these cars.... Stick with 4.5's in the stock box.... No 6.5 no 5.25.....

 

[96jimmyslt]

20 to install a system in a car.. Sure that's going to happen or get done the right way.

It's such easy work.

I wouldn't charge anyone more than that no matter how long it took.

 

[truckerfte]

Hello...... I've done a poop ton of these cars.... Stick with 4.5's in the stock box.... No 6.5 no 5.25.....

Not many people are gonna agree with ya on this one. I've owned a few supes, and have heard it both ways. I made my reccomendation for a reason. The 5.25's are what his installer felt he could do, and its obvious this guy isn't gonna diy. Plus they are on sale. Even toyota changed it in 90. Go hit the junkyards and see how many mounts for the 6.5's you find. The guy over at sm had them reproduced for a reason. It woulb easier to retain the stock box, yes. But I seriously doubt most here would chose a 4 over a 6.5 in te front

Sent from my SPH-D700 using Tapatalk

 

[Bluliner]

It's such easy work.

I wouldn't charge anyone more than that no matter how long it took.

You're the guy who installed the x-overs & tweet INSIDE the rear door pockets right?

If you are, you probably shouldn't be commenting on the value of a quality install.

...

Aside from that, the JL/Directed system for $800 seems like steal IF it includes all the odds & ends. Crap like speaker wire, signal cable, power wire, and anything else needed to install the system can add up rather quickly. If $800 is the cash-out-the-door price, I'd jump on it.

 

[96jimmyslt]

You're the guy who installed the x-overs & tweet INSIDE the rear door pockets right?

If you are, you probably shouldn't be commenting on the value of a quality install.

$60 components. Square trade warranty. Personal choice, first system. The debate was over water getting into them and zapping them, which is highly un-likely, otherwise the power windows and power locks would have blown, caught on fire or popped some fuses.

I'm not saying I'm an expert or experienced installer.

I'm just trying to point out that it's not worth the cash to pay someone to do it unless the vehicle is particularly hard to work on yourself.

I made that mistake (paying $80 to have 8awg power wire installed fairly getto-rigged)

I apologize if I am biased against car audio shops or believe that you should get paid accurately for the amount of work you do.

I dont consider an hour of sitting on your ass and using a screw driver worth more than $10 per hour.

Now, if you are doing custom stuff that most people can't do, than I would agree on that "skilled" work being worth A LOT more than just simple head unit and amp installation.

I can't tell if you are just trying to make car audio installation seem harder than it is to maintain the cost/labor ratio to people who have never done it before or what...but again I would like to make it clear how easy basic car audio installation is.

 

[trojan fan]

Please explain how to benefit OP

I dont post to intentionally misguide anyone.

What I posted is what I do and it's the best option I've found.

You have got to be kidding....LOL

 

[AccordUno]

Not to hijack this thread, but let me ask you something, Have you ever worked at a shop? If you think installers just sit on their ass and screw driver, you are seriously mistaken. When you've done it for so long it becomes easy, but it's definitely worth more that 20. The warranty alone is more than that.

 

[Jsracing]

My recommended setup:

Headunit - Clarion, Pioneer, or Alpine - $120-$150
5.25" Components - Rockford, Pioneer, Polk, DLS, Boston - $100
Amp - MQ Quart or Soundstream Rubicon 5-channel - $200
Sub - Infinity, Boston, JBL 12" - $70
Enclosure - $40
HU install - typically $50-$60
Amp install (including wiring) - typically $100-$120
Components install - typically $60-$70
Total < $900

Use the headunit to power the rear stock speakers for rear fill. Or add some cheap 4" coaxs for $50.

All listed items are quite good and should serve you well on both performance and reliability. I particularly like the Clarion HUs...great features and sound, simple looks, low cost. The MQ Quart and SS Rubicon amps are also really good performers at really great prices. Get whatever MBQ series you can afford...they're all quite decent. I prefer the looks of the SS Rubs, but the MBQs look really clean also.

It's not hard to make a good sounding setup on a budget these days. I'm setting up a friend's system for about $400 including sound deadening (but no install since it's me)...all good parts, all new parts.

 

[bwillard89]

So if I can fit 6.5's in my doors, how is the DLS UP6i?

I'm thinking a pair of 'really nice' 6.5's up front is better than 2 sets (front and rear) of 'so-so' speakers.

What amp would be good to feed the 150w rms of the dls up6i?



btw, thanks for all the input, I think my plan has changed. I think I will buy half my system now and the other half later. I'm thinking of getting just a stereo with 2 nicer speakers with amp. Might get the sub with amp later next year or so.

 

[schmiddr2]

For under $800 buy this and has a shop install it. $440 - Image Dynamics ID12 V.3 D4 Sub + CTX-6.5cs and CTX65 Speakers + FREE RE Audio XTX500.5 Amplifier

 

[truckerfte]

Nice lil setup there.

If you decide to do the 6.5s, check the link I provided earlier for the mounts for the doors

 

[Aaron'z 2.5RS/WRX]

For under $800 buy this and has a shop install it. $440 - Image Dynamics ID12 V.3 D4 Sub + CTX-6.5cs and CTX65 Speakers + FREE RE Audio XTX500.5 Amplifier

I think I just SHAT myself (and posted that in my "hot deals" thread on another forum THANKS!!)